[Tambohamilton]

Originally Posted by Kriterzz

boys were back at it again she was happy with a new battery for the first two starts and then back to the same no crank no start. push started it to get home. any ideas once again?

Did you check the ground straps?

Any fault codes?

Did you register the new battery?

[Kriterzz]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

Did you check the ground straps?

Any fault codes?

Did you register the new battery?

no fault codes that i can read, ground strap on the top end of the n52 looks corroded but seems to be grounding ok gonna change it anyways cuz i can’t get a ground in some spots of the engine and some spots vary compared to others

[chilledn52]

If remanufactured, chance that the starter might have a deadspot in it somewhere. Has happened to me and had to get push started at a car show to replace AGAIN

[Kriterzz]

Originally Posted by chilledn52

If remanufactured, chance that the starter might have a deadspot in it somewhere. Has happened to me and had to get push started at a car show to replace AGAIN

yessir hot wired the starter and it won’t turn but it’s a brand new bosch starter put in on october 15th so i don’t get why it’s dead already

[rick_flying_machine]

Not sure how it's setup on the N52, but I had a similar issue that took a while to resolve on my end as well. I finally found that the starter/alternator cable was heavily corroded underneath the red shrink wrap near the DME junction box. Might be worth a look.

[marvinstockman]

New or remanufactured does not guarantee it is good.

[crashoverride]

Check your oil level

[Kriterzz]

still at it keep going back and fourth with starting and not starting. changed the ignition switch and the relay for the dme i think it is.
pulled all my fuses related to the start stop and all looked good, good ground in the engine, got a new starter and battery in. i back probed the starter wire from the engine fuse box and when it wasn’t starting i wasn’t getting voltage going to that wire like i should so the problem is from there back. any ideas on how to diagnose this further without messing with the CAS or DME?

[Bims328i]

Could be a myriad of things honestly. Let forum members know any additional information you can provide!

[Kriterzz]

Originally Posted by Bims328i

Could be a myriad of things honestly. Let forum members know any additional information you can provide!

i’m going to pull my cas module today and visually check that little diode thing that often gets burnt since i don’t have the software to give me the answers and go from there i know it’s not the dme since everything runs great when i get it started and the immobilizer isn’t stopping the car since i can push start it i just know im not getting my voltage going from the white start wire in the engine when pushing the button so might as well start working from the ignition switch towards there

[Kriterzz]

Not getting voltage to my start wire (thick white one) through this connector it seems the copper bit is damaged on mine. Any ideas on how to fix or repair this issue? found out this is the problem for my intermittent no crank.

[Bmw1939]

Are you using a dummy stick? The whole wire is dead?

[GoRomeo]

Have you checked the power distribution box located on top of the battery?

[Kriterzz]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

Have you checked the power distribution box located on top of the battery?

the wire is all good until the point that is a screenshot i pulled from a video but mine is seriously messed up the power coming from battery is good on all terminals as well as all engine grounds and power going to the starter. if i mess with that cable connector i can always get the car started a few times after i drive it and i guess it wiggles out of place

[Kriterzz]

here’s what mine looks like, camera can’t see but if i look down in there it seems all bent up. on the others i can see daylight shining through them on some parts but not that one. also confirmed my theory by wiggling the connector when i had no crank and then started right up

[Bims328i]

Ahh so it is an issue with the interconnect. Nice find. I believe there is a way to release each metal pin inside the interconnect. If you cannot pull the pin out for repair then perhaps you can get a fine pick tool and gently bend the metal to contact the pin like it should.

Also inspect the corresponding pin, I'm curious how it would have gotten bent like that.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Kriterzz

Not getting voltage to my start wire (thick white one) through this connector it seems the copper bit is damaged on mine.
Any ideas on how to fix or repair this issue? found out this is the problem for my intermittent no crank.

NOT to impugn your photography (better than MOST ;-), but I'm NOT sure which connector you are looking at, and what,
if any electrical tests you have done, either at that connector you are holding or elsewhere in the E-box. I've NEVER opened
my E-box, and don't know the color of the various connectors. As you can see from the attached ScreenPrints,
X6011 (which I assume is the Green Connector you're holding) has 12 Pins. X60531 (or X60551?) is 8-pin.

So I'll simply attach ISTA ScreenPrints of the KL50 circuit: Black wire from CAS to X6011 in E-box, then White(?) wire
to X60531 (or X60551?) in E-box, and THEN White wire to Starter Solenoid.

I assume that "laval" is in Quebec Province, CA, and your vehicle is a 323i E90. Providing Last-7 VIN Characters would help.
Just so we're on the SAME Page, the CAS Module sends a 12V+ "KL50" voltage signal to the Starter Solenoid to
Activate the Starter Motor. That Voltage goes FROM X13376/22, Black wire, at Pin 22 of CAS Connector X13376, TO
X6011/1 in the E-box. That signal then goes from X6011 to X60531 (or X60551?), becoming a White wire at some
unknown point (based upon other descriptions), then onward to the Starter Solenoid, X6510.

So you can test for 12V+ from CAS at X6011/1, WHEN START is pressed with foot on brake (AT), OR you can apply 12V+
to the White wire going out of E-box & running to Starter, X60531/2, and see if Starter Cranks. MAKE SURE Park/Neutral
is selected so vehicle doesn't drive away/ OVER You, as "Hot-wiring" Starter Solenoid DEFEATS Safety Switches (Brake/Park).

If you do NOT have 12V+ KL50 Signal from CAS on Black wire to X6011, then please indicate Make/Model of any
Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software (INPA/ISTA) available to you. We can suggest other tests for that.

ANY questions, please advise.
George

[Kriterzz]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

NOT to impugn your photography (better than MOST ;-), but I'm NOT sure which connector you are looking at, and what,
if any electrical tests you have done, either at that connector you are holding or elsewhere in the E-box. I've NEVER opened
my E-box, and don't know the color of the various connectors. As you can see from the attached ScreenPrints,
X6011 (which I assume is the Green Connector you're holding) has 12 Pins. X60531 (or X60551?) is 8-pin.

So I'll simply attach ISTA ScreenPrints of the KL50 circuit: Black wire from CAS to X6011 in E-box, then White(?) wire
to X60531 (or X60551?) in E-box, and THEN White wire to Starter Solenoid.

I assume that "laval" is in Quebec Province, CA, and your vehicle is a 323i E90. Providing Last-7 VIN Characters would help.
Just so we're on the SAME Page, the CAS Module sends a 12V+ "KL50" voltage signal to the Starter Solenoid to
Activate the Starter Motor. That Voltage goes FROM X13376/22, Black wire, at Pin 22 of CAS Connector X13376, TO
X6011/1 in the E-box. That signal then goes from X6011 to X60531 (or X60551?), becoming a White wire at some
unknown point (based upon other descriptions), then onward to the Starter Solenoid, X6510.

So you can test for 12V+ from CAS at X6011/1, WHEN START is pressed with foot on brake (AT), OR you can apply 12V+
to the White wire going out of E-box & running to Starter, X60531/2, and see if Starter Cranks. MAKE SURE Park/Neutral
is selected so vehicle doesn't drive away/ OVER You, as "Hot-wiring" Starter Solenoid DEFEATS Safety Switches (Brake/Park).

If you do NOT [...]

yo insane description and detail ur amazing but voltage from cas to my ebox is good it’s just it won’t connect well with this pin (black from cas is good, white to starter is not getting appropriate voltage due to bad connection on the pins) i’ve got some referenc connectors from the scrap yard to pull apart and debating if i should cut it and splice in a new end of the white wire with the metal bit already crimped on or try to find the connector bit and just cut the wire and recrimp that way. all else is good i realized every time i get a no crank if i wiggle that green connector and try again it starts no issue

[Kriterzz]

Originally Posted by Bims328i

Ahh so it is an issue with the interconnect. Nice find. I believe there is a way to release each metal pin inside the interconnect. If you cannot pull the pin out for repair then perhaps you can get a fine pick tool and gently bend the metal to contact the pin like it should.

Also inspect the corresponding pin, I'm curious how it would have gotten bent like that.

i’ve attempted to bend it properly which got me consistant starts back to back UNLESS i moved the car so if i just started it and shut it off it was all good but going for a drive and parking up would cause a no crank until i would go and bend it again or wiggle it around. was a super hard find to be honest read lots of forms and spending hours with a multimeter lmao

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Kriterzz

... going for a drive and parking up would cause a no crank until i would go and bend it again or wiggle it around...

Haven't seen anything showing the condition of the Pin that inserts into socket #1. As "Bims" suggested, if jiggling that connector restores contact, ANYTHING that prevents proper contact between Spade/Pin and Connector Socket, results in NO Crank.

I have NO personal experience with that connector, either on the Spade side where the Black wire comes from CAS, or on the Socket side where White wire goes to X60531 & to Solenoid. Can you insert a small blade screwdriver under the plastic tab of Green X6011 connector, to release White Wire Socket at "02" on side of socket? If socket has been enlarged or bent open to point it is NOT snug on spade, it can be compressed with pliers if removed from plastic.

I would also use Electronic Contact Cleaner to clean Spade & Socket after mechanical repair. At least hopefully NO MORE Electrical testing. Just mechanical repair of electrical component.
George

[Kriterzz]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Haven't seen anything showing the condition of the Pin that inserts into socket #1. As "Bims" suggested, if jiggling that connector restores contact, ANYTHING that prevents proper contact between Spade/Pin and Connector Socket, results in NO Crank.

I have NO personal experience with that connector, either on the Spade side where the Black wire comes from CAS, or on the Socket side where White wire goes to X60531 & to Solenoid. Can you insert a small blade screwdriver under the plastic tab of Green X6011 connector, to release White Wire Socket at "02" on side of socket? If socket has been enlarged or bent open to point it is NOT snug on spade, it can be compressed with pliers if removed from plastic.

I would also use Electronic Contact Cleaner to clean Spade & Socket after mechanical repair. At least hopefully NO MORE Electrical testing. Just mechanical repair of electrical component.
George

i can remove the cable to access the metal bit. i have gotten the same connector from other bmws in the scrap yard and im wondering if i should just pull my white cable out, cut it and solder the end of the other white cable from the other connector onto it with the metal part in perfect shape or if i should go find the correct metal piece cut mine and recrimp it. what would be the correct way to go about it and would soldering cause any issues?

[Bims328i]

I think you should be able to pry the crimp back and maybe desolder it from the wire but need close clear pics to see. Are you touching the screen to focus the interconnect? Sometimes if you use the closeup tree icon thing you have to back it away some for best clarity.

When uploading pics if you can resize with affinity or photoshop to 720-900px they will come out much better.

Soldering would provide the best connection to be honest. Just make sure you have an iron that can maintain a set temp. When and if desoldering make sure you apply ample flux to facilitate removal.

My question is, how did it get bent out like that? Sounds like it is still getting bent even after you fix it. Maybe the pin was removed and reinserted on the wrong axis on the opposite interconnect?