[david in germany]

Originally Posted by maddmatth

I have the EBC red stuff on my 335i.

For the street they're great and handle a reasonable level of spirited driving. Just don't take them on the track, they don't last long there - I tried.
I think a 335i needs some proper performance pads on a track.

Akebono are similar I believe. Good for the street but don't treat them like performance pads.

good info. I went through my redstuff pads pretty quickly on the autobahn in my MINI. They did have a nice constant grab but did have a bit of fade as they got hot. I never had any issues with deposits though.

[dannyjones]

Originally Posted by ECSTuning

I run Akebonos with our slotted rotors on my daily driver, braking performance is great the low dust nature of the pads is amazing. Keep in mind the coating will cut off the contact areas of the rotors allowing the braking surface to rust if the car sits for an extended period of time.

Sorry, I didn't quite understand that. Are you talking about some coating on the Akebono pads that will remove the Geomet anti-rust coating? And would another kind of pad not do that?

[ECSTuning]

Originally Posted by cpie168

ECS and Camman, have you noticed any steering wheel vibration when braking at highway speed due to pad deposit from your Akebono pads?

Zero vibration

Originally Posted by dannyjones

Sorry, I didn't quite understand that. Are you talking about some coating on the Akebono pads that will remove the Geomet anti-rust coating? And would another kind of pad not do that?

ALL pads will remove the coating on the braking surface of any coated rotor (not just our geomet). The coating is only a surface coating, the hats and veins will still be protected.

[jumbosrule]

Originally Posted by david in germany

That is your problem.. Rotors are not warped, pads have left deposits on the rotors.

Sorry, but it drives me nuts every time I hear warped rotors. Gone are the days of non vented rotors that could not deal with heat cycles and warped. Mechanics use "warped rotors" to make money. Newer pads leave deposits (especially carbon pads) that cause the pads to skip across high spots causing pulsation under braking..

Back to the original question. The ecs rotors are an improvement over the stockers in the looks department but the reduce the contact area of the pad with the cross drilling and slotting. It might only be slight but they will reduce your brake efficiency over stock rotors. Normal street driving, they will be fine.

Originally Posted by dannyjones

Thanks all for the advice. I currently have oem pads on the front and akebono ceramic on the rear, so would I not suffer from this deposit issue? Is the consensus then that they don’t warp and you just need to be careful with the type of pad?
Is there a better rotor for similar or slightly more $ without spending a fortune?

Also, anyone got photos of them installed?

StopTech here.

David has it nailed - glad education is starting to become mainstream. Warped rotors are a thing of the past.

Let me give some more detail on pad deposits. Pads are meant to be used in a particular temperature range. Generally speaking:

Street - 500-800 degrees
Sport - 800-1200 degrees
Race - 1800-2200 degrees

MOST Sport and race pads use a transfer layer - they literally smear brake pad material over the face of the rotor when BEDDED or BURNISHED properly. Just like laying down rubber on a drag strip, friction is increased with pad-pad friction.

This transfer layer is established at bed in but it can wear off if the pad is used outside of its intended temperature range. Use it too cold and the transfer layer wears off unevenly - leaving you with high spots or pad deposits on the rotor. Use them too hot and too much material is spread over the rotor unevenly. Both will cause judder - or what most of history has called a warped rotor.

The fix is to turn down the rotor (machine off the brake deposits) OR you can re-bed or re-burnish the pad/rotor so that the pad material is once again spread evenly over the rotor. The rotor will feel normal once again.

If you wait too long to fix these issues, the high-spot pad deposits hit the rotor on every rotation and begin to develop hot spots in those areas. So now you will have hot and cold areas on the same rotor (relative to each other) that will eventually cause metallurgy changes in those spots.

Pick a pad that is intended for the type of driving you do most often. If you drive a sport or race pad on the street - re-burnish periodically.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...and-procedures
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...eposit-removal

[david in germany]

by the way,
This is what hot spots look like on a rotor. Results of chasing a E60 M5 on Autobahn A67 and needing to slow down for my exit. I already had brakes on order as they were on the way out.

[Blackjacks]

I'm so glad I read this, as I recently purchased my car about four months ago and noticed my steering wheel wobbling under braking and thought it was warped rotors as well.

I've had cars in the past where I do like an ECS style drilled/slotted rotor and aftermarket pads and they squeak under braking.

You guy's with the ECS set up or other drilled and slotted, did you notice any squeaking or not, and what is your setup please?

My pads are needing replacement and I'd love to replace it all in one shot.

[TitanLH8]

Originally Posted by dannyjones

Hi,

Does anyone have the ECS Tuning own brand cross drilled and slotted rotors?
What do you think of them, and could you provide photos?

I'm considering them as my original rotors are completely rusted. I want drilled/slotted for the look more than anything. I have read several threads where people say it doesn't help performance and will just wear out your pads quicker, but that doesn't bother me.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...64655xsgmtlra/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...70729xsgmtlra/

Thanks

I have the ECS Tuning cross-drilled and slotted on all four corners using Akebono brake pads for the last three years on my 335 (daily driven) and I haven't had any issues with them. I can attest these rotors work great for daily and random spirited driving moments.

[Barefoot-335is]

Yeah, I bought the ECS 2 piece D/S Rotors and am suffering the "Warped Rotor" shutter myself.
So can you turn down these rotors or not?