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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > Fuel filter change -- minimizing dry cranking



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      07-17-2015, 05:55 AM   #23
Mik325tds
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dixy2k View Post
I would imagine the fuel pump would fill it up prior to you starting the motor. The fuel system runs on high pressure.
I would just turn the ignition on, without stepping on the brake pedal, and wait a few seconds... maybe a minute. Then start the engine.
It doesn't. Other cars do activate the fuel pump with ignition on, but the 335d doesn't. You'll have to activate it with a diagnostic command through EDIABAS in order to purge air out of the filter.

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Originally Posted by glitdi View Post
Filling the fuel filter is always a good idea... I do it on all common rail systems no matter what.... Priming pump or no Next time grab a large medical syringe and use that to draw diesel out of a small jerry can and fill up the filter... cap it and install! its not hard and if your meticulous it wont make any mess!
No matter how good you prefill your filter, there will always be air in it when being replaced. If you have to purge it with the pump anyway - what's the sense in prefilling it?
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      07-17-2015, 01:43 PM   #24
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All you need is either 2pc of these

or 2 pc of these


I did it with the latter ones.
Block off the short rubber sections of the fuel line (pre/post filter unit), remove the filter together with the heater element, remove the old filter from the heater element, connect the heater element to the new filter, prefill from both sides with the help of the plastic cap that comes with the filter, put all back and be happy about the engine that will crank not longer than max. 2 seconds.

I did it just this way. I expected a bit of a mess of spilling diesel but all that came out of the system was about 2-3 blobs.

No need to say one single grain of sand can ruin your day by grinding your pump down to the bone and /or blocking off an injector. So keep it all clean like a brain surgeon
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Last edited by kiel_dafo_kenyg_as; 07-17-2015 at 01:54 PM..
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      07-17-2015, 01:58 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mik325tds View Post
No matter how good you prefill your filter, there will always be air in it when being replaced.
No. Just ensure to keep the open end upright and be faster than gravity
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      07-17-2015, 03:10 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiteblue View Post
All you need is either 2pc of these

or 2 pc of these


I did it with the latter ones.
Block off the short rubber sections of the fuel line (pre/post filter unit), remove the filter together with the heater element, remove the old filter from the heater element, connect the heater element to the new filter, prefill from both sides with the help of the plastic cap that comes with the filter, put all back and be happy about the engine that will crank not longer than max. 2 seconds.

I did it just this way. I expected a bit of a mess of spilling diesel but all that came out of the system was about 2-3 blobs.

No need to say one single grain of sand can ruin your day by grinding your pump down to the bone and /or blocking off an injector. So keep it all clean like a brain surgeon
I suggested clamping the fuel lines in post #2. I do not have fancy and lightweight clamps like you show in your post. I need to get some soon as I am planning to change the fuel filter shortly. I searched for "fuel line clamp" and I found these. I will have to get some this weekend. Thanks
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-65116.html
or the "Wilmar W83205 3-Piece Line Clamp Set" on Amazon
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      07-17-2015, 06:01 PM   #27
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As Mik325 stated, activating the fuel pump to prime the system with a tool such as EDIABAS or Bav Tech is the most simple and only surefire way to guarantee airless priming of the system. Hooper's method to flush the filter would be a great practice also.
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