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Fuel filter change -- minimizing dry cranking
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07-17-2015, 05:55 AM | #23 | ||
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07-17-2015, 01:43 PM | #24 |
DIE ANTWOORD
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All you need is either 2pc of these
or 2 pc of these I did it with the latter ones. Block off the short rubber sections of the fuel line (pre/post filter unit), remove the filter together with the heater element, remove the old filter from the heater element, connect the heater element to the new filter, prefill from both sides with the help of the plastic cap that comes with the filter, put all back and be happy about the engine that will crank not longer than max. 2 seconds. I did it just this way. I expected a bit of a mess of spilling diesel but all that came out of the system was about 2-3 blobs. No need to say one single grain of sand can ruin your day by grinding your pump down to the bone and /or blocking off an injector. So keep it all clean like a brain surgeon
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Last edited by kiel_dafo_kenyg_as; 07-17-2015 at 01:54 PM.. |
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07-17-2015, 01:58 PM | #25 |
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No. Just ensure to keep the open end upright and be faster than gravity
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07-17-2015, 03:10 PM | #26 | |
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Quote:
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-65116.html or the "Wilmar W83205 3-Piece Line Clamp Set" on Amazon |
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07-17-2015, 06:01 PM | #27 |
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As Mik325 stated, activating the fuel pump to prime the system with a tool such as EDIABAS or Bav Tech is the most simple and only surefire way to guarantee airless priming of the system. Hooper's method to flush the filter would be a great practice also.
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