[Chief Orman]

Originally Posted by Lexx.md

Old hoses are out and new are in.

Well done! How long did it take? How much skill is needed?

[Lexx.md]

For hoses the longest part is disassembling all around to get in there.
And the hoses are stick to the plastic nipples, so very hard to remove and have to be careful not to break them
There is one nut out of three which was very hard to remove, i dropped it on the ground and decided not even put it back. It is on the sandwich with all electric\vacuum switches.

[Lexx.md]

It is hard to say how long it took me, as i was my wife was always calling me to help with the baby, and also was helping neighbor to replace his exhaust

[Chief Orman]

Originally Posted by Lexx.md

It is hard to say how long it took me, as i was my wife was always calling me to help with the baby, and also was helping neighbor to replace his exhaust

I swear to god, somebody needs to come up with the "work on your car vacation" where you get access to a lift, tools, parts and a hotel room so that you can work on your car, for days, uninterrupted. Having a senior BMW mechanic strolling around would also be good. I feel like 90% of the stress of starting a project is waiting to get bugged by a loved one.

[chance91]

Any update on if it solved your problem 100%?

First post here, but I've been slowly working on a little how-to for this. Basically, all my research suggests for the low boost in Upper/Lower rpms, you can have either bad hoses, bad turbocharger actuators, or a bad lower red hose (oil on turbo outlet hose problem). As I was getting more frustrated, we did all the vac lines, the forge turbo outlet hose, and 2 new turbo actuators all at once. I look at it more as preventative maintenance with the hoses and boost hose, and the actuators were 70kmi old already so another 70kmi will be fine by me.

So, not having INPA right off, we used my Autel AL619 to do some troubleshooting. Our code was coming up as Turbocharger/supercharger Low/under boost, a generic code.

On the Autel, we have "live data" section, which contains a few key paramaters, current boost and commanded boost. Using two people we drove with live data active, and accelerate from various RPMs, and found the low boost was >3krpm, roughly, leading us to the small turbo not being actuated, so we figured it was either a line or an actuator.

Changed all the lines and still had the same problems, so dove into it a second time with the remaining parts and solved the issue.

One thing to add, I used some Reflectagold heat reflective tape (common with EVO guys) to keep radiant heat off the area, and hose anti-chaffing wrap for the silicon hoses. Pretty easy to source on ebay/amazon/local hose shop.

Cheers

[Chief Orman]

Originally Posted by chance91

Any update on if it solved your problem 100%?

First post here, but I've been slowly working on a little how-to for this. Basically, all my research suggests for the low boost in Upper/Lower rpms, you can have either bad hoses, bad turbocharger actuators, or a bad lower red hose (oil on turbo outlet hose problem). As I was getting more frustrated, we did all the vac lines, the forge turbo outlet hose, and 2 new turbo actuators all at once. I look at it more as preventative maintenance with the hoses and boost hose, and the actuators were 70kmi old already so another 70kmi will be fine by me.

So, not having INPA right off, we used my Autel AL619 to do some troubleshooting. Our code was coming up as Turbocharger/supercharger Low/under boost, a generic code.

On the Autel, we have "live data" section, which contains a few key paramaters, current boost and commanded boost. Using two people we drove with live data active, and accelerate from various RPMs, and found the low boost was >3krpm, roughly, leading us to the small turbo not being actuated, so we figured it was either a line or an actuator.

Changed all the lines and still had the same problems, so dove into it a second time with the remaining parts and solved the issue.

One thing to add, I used some Reflectagold heat reflective tape (common with EVO guys) to keep radiant heat off the area, and hose anti-chaffing wrap for the silicon hoses. Pretty easy to source on ebay/amazon/local hose shop.

Cheers

So just to be totally clear, was the small turbo actuator the culprit?

How would you prioritize the work you did?

I thinking the Reflectagold heat reflective tape is a great idea. I just pulled the engine cover off and the hoses that run across the top of the turbo that are shrouded in the foil sleeve(with fur-like lining) were just scorching hot...more specifically the sleeve itself was scorching hot and I can't believe that it provides adequate protection on a longer-term basis.

[chance91]

Originally Posted by Chief Orman

So just to be totally clear, was the small turbo actuator the culprit?

How would you prioritize the work you did?

I thinking the Reflectagold heat reflective tape is a great idea. I just pulled the engine cover off and the hoses that run across the top of the turbo that are shrouded in the foil sleeve(with fur-like lining) were just scorching hot...more specifically the sleeve itself was scorching hot and I can't believe that it provides adequate protection on a longer-term basis.

Yes, I believe it was the small turbo actuator. We could see it live on the scanner, which was just acting like a boost gauge, with the added benefit of having actual vs targeted boost. I snagged a pair of new Oem actuators from Europe to save cost.

I feel like vac lines should be first, although just as difficult as the actuators, it's the cheapest and simplest first repair, and would have identical symptoms to a failed actuator. Searching shows some people only having this issue.

The turbo outlet to intercooler hose is a deffinate weak point. The cheapest solution would be replacing the inner green o-ring that goes over the turbo outlet, located inside the red boost hose. Others seem to have succeeded with this, I just went with the forge part due to future plans to upgrade boost and the IC.

The actuators are the most expensive piece, I did them in a pair rather than waiting for the second one to fail, they are right next to each other. Not an easy repair.

Car pulls solidly now, I haven't checked recently, but I think peak boost is around 28lbs.

The heat tape and hose guard hopefully helps. Underhood temps are very high in this car I feel, though I've yet to measure.

[Lexx.md]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Two questions/comments. How are you bypassing/blocking the coolant feed to the egr cooler? And second, that aluminum plate will not be enough for the heat at the exhaust manifold.

Coolant bypass

[Lexx.md]

Drove like 500-600 miles and code is back.

Have to take the car apart again

[chau]

Originally Posted by Lexx.md

Drove like 500-600 miles and code is back.

Have to take the car apart again

Any updates on this Lexx? I got this code for the first time yesterday. My first thought was maybe the red hose.

[CvilleBill]

I have a replacement engine on a stand getting ready for transplant and the nipple on part number 11658509323 snapped with very little force. Engine has 87,000 miles. It takes two of them so I'm ordering both. I also ordered silicone vacuum lines.

[glitdi]

Originally Posted by Lexx.md

Do you think that there are temperatures to melt the aluminium?
I will give it a try anyway, will see if it will fail, but i have seen people using copper plugs much thinner

Dude get that aluminum off your engine now!!! That shit is going melt into a nice hot mess for you to fix... Seriously... Look up the egt's of your car and look at the melting point of aluminum... Stainless steel or nothing on at least the exhaust side, minimum...

which diagnostic did you use when u could diagnose it under acceleration?

[Lexx.md]

Originally Posted by chau

Any updates on this Lexx? I got this code for the first time yesterday. My first thought was maybe the red hose.

I forget to say, but i am running good.
In the second time it was a blown\burned hose to exhaust.

[Lexx.md]

Originally Posted by glitdi

Dude get that aluminum off your engine now!!! That shit is going melt into a nice hot mess for you to fix... Seriously... Look up the egt's of your car and look at the melting point of aluminum... Stainless steel or nothing on at least the exhaust side, minimum...

Hm. I will report as soon as i will melt it
Anyway my DPF is not regenerating so i don't think the temperatures are that hi.

[Lexx.md]

Originally Posted by Martin80k

which diagnostic did you use when u could diagnose it under acceleration?

Basically if you have any issues with turbine to not work start from vacuum hoses first.

[glitdi]

Sorry to the op for a jacked thread in advance..

Originally Posted by Lexx.md

Hm. I will report as soon as i will melt it
Anyway my DPF is not regenerating so i don't think the temperatures are that hi.

What do you think the engine tuner has done? reduced fuelling?? Tuners make power by over fueling, over fueling makes egts. more fuel= egts=heat.

Besides all that I think the temps are not that high lets step back for a second and give this some perspective....

Think of all those wonderful exhaust gases such as nox, co2, co,voc,hc, and oxygen, most or all react with Aluminum.. Stainless is used not only for its high melting point but to its resistance to chemical reaction..

Aluminum reacts with nox!!!!! They use it in aftertreatment because it reacts. So basically you have made a plate that sits right by your turbo, gets heated up and has a nice source of catalyst to chew on...Right next to some very sensitive impellers not to mention all the other crap downstream..

I get paid quite well to fix mistakes very similar to the one you are making currently, I am no Bmw expert but I know a few things about the modern diesel engine... just trying to save you an expensive lesson.

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by glitdi

So basically you have made a plate that sits right by your turbo, gets heated up and has a nice source of catalyst to chew on...

That plate is an exhaust manifold block. I'm sure it will see a lot of pressure and close to 1500F. Should fail in no time. I had made a stainless 15mm plate for that spot, that is a thickness on a factory flange for the EGR cooler inlet mount. Would be interested to hear from the OP on how it is holding up?

[Chief Orman]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

Yes. Few years ago I had done some testing on this with an "outdoor" thermometer that used a wired sensor. Routed it around under the hood in various places. The foam in the acoustic cover not only insulates sound, but is a good thermal insulator as well. And that area of the engine is right by the exhaust/turbo's and it gets hot. Especially during regens.

I pulled my engine cover off and never looked back. I get a bit more engine noise but so be it...engine compartment is now better ventilated.

i was battling the same power loss. majority were the lose red hose, then it was the aluminium hose that was rubbing against a water hose and hence that resulted in a small hole in aluminum hose. in both of those issues, the diagnostics never showed any problem, as i was told the hole was just behind the pressure sensor.
you can check the actuators and there is a both visible and diagnostic way of doing it. you can also check egr and that too has two ways of checking. your red hose might have a lose connection that sometimes goes as unnoticed. turbos rarely fail on those but you never know. just check all the connections and pipes...

[chau]

I replaced all 3 hoses last night with silicone hoses. I drove about 30 miles to work today and right before I got there, the engine warning light comes on. No CEL yet, just the underboost warning.

[Stevemeister]

How much hose do you need in order to replace all the hoses . . .after 154,000 km I am getting the P0299 code. Thanks