[stock335ix]

2008 335xi n54 100k miles....Under load.. i get the light as well... if i go easy on the throttle the light will not show up on the dash.... what would be the fix....

[clegg]

On my 07 335i, it would go into limp mode (half engine light) when the accelerator was depressed more than 1/4. Turning the ignition off would clear it and could be driven as normal until you try to get into it. I pulled codes and had misfires. For the hell of it I added a bottle of Techron to a near empty gas tank and the car was running perfectly after that.

It's certainly worth a try.

At 100000 miles the coils and spark plugs should be replaced as well.

[relative4]

The light means Pull The Codes. You most likely have a 30FF, but speculation is pointless.

[bmw335ie90]

My 0x2BEE code didn't go away until I replaced the pump but I also had a lot of other symptoms of a bad pump (low pressure when idleing, crashing at WOT, choppy idle, long cranks etc.) I would just change the sensor as a start, at least you know your pressure measurement will be 100% accurate after that. Its cheap and simple. This thread helped me troubleshoot.
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1605768

[MyCar]

Originally Posted by relative4

The light means Pull The Codes. You most likely have a 30FF, but speculation is pointless.

I did pull the codes, I have the following:

Error Code 2BEE
0x2BEE High-pressure fuel system, cold start: Pressure too low
Possible fault causes:
-Tank Empty
-Defective rail-pressure sensor
-Defect in low-pressure system
-High-pressure pump defective


Error Code 2C01
0x2C01 High-pressure fuel system, fuel pressure: Minimum pressure undershot
Possible fault causes:
-Fuel tank empty
-Obstruction in fuel filter
-Fuel pump defective
-Defective rail-pressure sensor
-High-pressure pump defective

Error Code 3876
0x3876 Power management: Central Under-voltage


So here is the strange part, my car has never had long cranks ever, it starts up immediately nice and strong. And since I started this thread, my car has been fine and hasn't had any rough idle, hasn't turned off, and half yellow malfunction warning hasn't come back.

I'm convinced this issue is intermittent and related to the temperate outside. Only happens when it's super cold outside. The weather has warmed up the past few days, so now everything is fine.

Can the HPFP act up when the weather gets super cold, then run normal when it' warm outside?

[TunafishE93]

I had starting issues below 10F all the time and random error, so I think your right.. It only happened when cold.. I was running 5w oil but now change to 0w and its improved.. But I usually will just walk to where I need to go when its that cold so not to upset the car.

[MyCar]

Originally Posted by bmv335ie90

My 0x2BEE code didn't go away until I replaced the pump but I also had a lot of other symptoms of a bad pump (low pressure when idleing, crashing at WOT, choppy idle, long cranks etc.) I would just change the sensor as a start, at least you know your pressure measurement will be 100% accurate after that. Its cheap and simple. This thread helped me troubleshoot.
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1605768

How can I measure the pressure? I have the Torque Pro app, will that do it, and if so which measurement should I be looking for and what range?

[bmw335ie90]

Originally Posted by MyCar

How can I measure the pressure? I have the Torque Pro app, will that do it, and if so which measurement should I be looking for and what range?

You need to invest in the proper tools and learn about the fuel system if you're going to troubleshoot. Use either MHD, ISTA, or INPA to measure your fuel pressure. There are threads all over that explain what your fuel pressure should be prior to starting your car, what it should be at idle, and what it should be under load. The fuel pressure sensor is pretty robust but its only $50 and takes less than an hour to replace, I would do that first so you can be sure all your pressure measurements are accurate.

[MyCar]

Originally Posted by bmv335ie90

You need to invest in the proper tools and learn about the fuel system if you're going to troubleshoot. Use either MHD, ISTA, or INPA to measure your fuel pressure. There are threads all over that explain what your fuel pressure should be prior to starting your car, what it should be at idle, and what it should be under load. The fuel pressure sensor is pretty robust but its only $50 and takes less than an hour to replace, I would do that first so you can be sure all your pressure measurements are accurate.

Will DEEP OBD monitor the pressure? It's a BMW app, it's what I used to pull the BMW specific codes.

Reason I was asking about Torque is I've read other people using that to monitor pressure, and I already have the Torque Pro and Deep OBD apps.

[TunafishE93]

You can monitor fuel pressure with "car scanner" app its free and you can use a cheap elm327 adaptor.

App
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...g435a7wH-gvEV6

Adaptor
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ELM327-OBD2...oAAOSw5r9eERmH

[MyCar]

Originally Posted by TunafishE93

You can monitor fuel pressure with "car scanner" app its free and you can use a cheap elm327 adaptor.

App
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...g435a7wH-gvEV6

Adaptor
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ELM327-OBD2...oAAOSw5r9eERmH

Thanks I will try that now! Do I test before I start the car, at idle, and at driving speeds? Or what is the proper way to monitor.

[TunafishE93]

You can log with this app.. Which means you can just start what your looking at in "live data" choose fuel pressure, think you can view two data points at the same time (in free version).. It will auto record the data once you disconnect.. It will be under "data recording" (you must have this checked on for it to record). Then you can go back a view what is happening.. Get range psi for idle, cruising and under load.. That will give you a good idea of condition. Its a cool little app for free..

[MyCar]

Originally Posted by TunafishE93

You can log with this app.. Which means you can just start what your looking at in "live data" choose fuel pressure, think you can view two data points at the same time (in free version).. It will auto record the data once you disconnect.. It will be under "data recording" (you must have this checked on for it to record). Then you can go back a view what is happening.. Get range psi for idle, cruising and under load.. That will give you a good idea of condition. Its a cool little app for free..

I logged the Fuel Rail Pressure, is that the right one?

Just driving normal, it starts at 6000 kPa, goes up to about 18,000, some data points at about 4,500. I’ll post an image if I figure out how to attach pics from my phone.

Do these numbers look normal?

[TunafishE93]

I am not sure what the spec are but I like to see 4800kpa minimum at idle with small fluctuations. Cruising on flat highway 6800kpa minimum with medium fluctuations and under load 13800 to 18000kpa. I have got dips down to 4500kpa but I think that has been decelerating..

I would concentrate on you fuel pressure at idle when you first start it up for the day by the codes you provided..

[MyCar]

Originally Posted by TunafishE93

I am not sure what the spec are but I like to see 4800kpa minimum at idle with small fluctuations. Cruising on flat highway 6800kpa minimum with medium fluctuations and under load 13800 to 18000kpa. I have got dips down to 4500kpa but I think that has been decelerating..

I would concentrate on you fuel pressure at idle when you first start it up for the day by the codes you provided..

Ok, so I let the car rest and I took another log. Before the car turns on I'm at about 500 pKA. Immediately upon pressing start it shoots up to 12,000 kPA, and stays there for about 40 seconds. Then it idles at about 5000 kPa. When cruising I'm at about 6000 pKA, and when pressing the gas to accelerate it goes up to 18,000 pKA depending on how low I press the pedal. I did not try flooring the pedal.

Does this seems like everything is acting normal?

Then again it's been warm outside, maybe the issue will pop up when it's cold outside, as I usually only notice it on super cold days.

[TunafishE93]

I would say it looks normal but I am not sure what the spec pressure range is.. If the codes keep popping up after clearing than you still have issues..

I am pretty sure my cold issue is the battery. I just pull ed it to do some work and seen it was made in 2013 and the window show black.. It was at 12.63V which is on the low side. I charged it up to 12.85V (window was still black) before putting it back but know its close to end of life..

Maybe something to look into..

[b30a]

im kinda having the same issue 2011 n55 fbo mhd 2+
The car sometimes will sputter at 50%+ throttle
The only error code | 2c01 |
Any help world be greatly appreciated
Have mhd logs if needed