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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Ask a Professional Detailer...
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06-03-2008, 01:17 PM | #485 | ||||
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Regards, George |
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06-05-2008, 09:41 PM | #486 |
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hey George!
i'm looking at a Meguiar's G220 buffer (same as G110 just for European countries), since i'm fresh when it comes to machine polishing. i still have some Poorboy's World SSR1 and 2.5 left, so i'll try those before moving on to Menzerna 106ff and SIP. what kind of pads & speeds do you suggest i use with SSR1 and 2.5? btw. i've seen some websites list 106fa saying it's the "uprated version of 106ff" - what does this mean? i think i have the basic "know-how" when it comes to operating the machine, but do you have any suggestions for a machine polishing beginner? thank you very much!
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06-09-2008, 09:08 PM | #487 | |
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I don't think many people would notice a difference from 106FA and 106FF. I believe (don't quote me on this) but 106FA might have a little more workability and a little less dusting. Supposedly same cut and gloss level. I haven't used it personally, but I've never experienced dusting with 106FF and it removes super easy. Maybe someone else can chime in on this if they know the specific differences between them. Tips for a beginner using a buffer:
Keep us posted on how things turn out. Best of luck and thanks once again for your continued support George |
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06-10-2008, 10:32 PM | #488 |
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George,
I have a quick question. I got some Poorboys Natural Look dressing for my interior. I tested it on my gal's 4Runner and found that it has a bit of a uneven appearance. Is there a good way to apply this to get just a nice uniform finish? Any suggestions would help mucho. Thanks, Nick
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06-11-2008, 08:35 AM | #489 | |
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This is how I apply it, and it seems to work pretty good. I put a small dab on the corner of a microfiber towel. Gently spread it over the planned working area. Give some light pressure and work the product into the surface. When your given working area has product covering the surface, I flip to a clean side (or use a separate towel) and buff the product to a uniform matte finish. Keep in mind less is more. Using too much product can often lead to streaking or an uneven look. Let me know if this helps at all. George |
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06-14-2008, 11:50 PM | #490 |
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Hi George...long time no type. Couple of quick questions for you....As you know I went with the FMJ/PB Natty blue combo on my Black saph. I don't need to strip and re-apply...since I've only had this combo on for awhile....no driving in the rain, parked in the garage, and maybe only 5-6 washes (I quick detail every time I pull back in the garage). So I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to re-apply another coat of Natty...just to add a little depth/warmth to the color?.....or is it a better idea to strip and start over? The latter would really be overkill...since I know my FMJ is still going strong.
Also....and this might sound like a weird question....but I'm wondering if there is any difference at all when washing my car with cold, warm, or hot water? I mean...does warmer water break down any of the product I have on my car? Reason I ask is because I happen to have hot AND cold lines to my outdoor faucet.
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06-15-2008, 10:57 AM | #491 | |
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Regarding the hot or cold water, I'm honestly not 100% sure. My gut instinct would say warm would be the best, because I know hotter water can often help break down heavier contamination (like bug splatter, etc.), but I am sure using TOO hot of water may break down your protective layers as well, especially the wax layer. Cold water is obviously the most common, so it certainly can't be bad, it really just boils down to if using warm water is more beneficial. Do some experimenting and see what seems to work better for you. Great to hear from you. George |
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06-16-2008, 03:52 AM | #492 |
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Hey George,
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149922 If you will indulge us in your detailing expertise please! TIA! |
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06-16-2008, 07:36 AM | #493 | |
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06-16-2008, 11:47 AM | #494 |
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George,
I have a quick question, My wood trim on my car is getting fine scratches in it. I keep a mf towell in my car and use it to occasionally dust the inside. I have the light burlnut wood trim... what would you recommend?? A wax? Should I use a QD?
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06-16-2008, 01:19 PM | #495 |
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I have a question too!
Did Parrot install yesterday, and ran mic wire down the A-pillar. At the end, when i re-installed everything, i noticed a ton of dirty hands prints on my a-pillar upholstery! How do i carefully clean that?
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06-16-2008, 08:47 PM | #496 | ||
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Let me know if you have any other questions. George |
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06-18-2008, 03:32 AM | #497 |
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Hey George,
I want to ZAINO my E93 for the first time but I had it waxed a couple of months ago and I need to get rid of the old wax. We don't have Dawn in my country, could you recommend something I can purchase from you or any other place? Feel free to PM if you want. Thanks a lot and kudos to your efforts here. abs |
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06-18-2008, 07:11 AM | #498 | |
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Thanks for the kind words. Regards, George |
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06-18-2008, 07:50 AM | #499 | |
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Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I am willing to learn! Thanks again! |
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06-18-2008, 09:40 PM | #500 |
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Hey George....one more quick question.....when I reapplied a coat of PB NB...I went over my entire care before removing....unlike the last time I did my car where I only did sections. The NB was difficult to remove...so I'm wondering is it ok to use a spray wax to remove the dried on NB...or is this not a good idea? I used to do this on my 330 a few years ago....but now I'm wondering if it's a good idea or not. Thanks!
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06-19-2008, 09:47 AM | #501 |
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Hey,
some lady cut me off when I had a full gas can in my trunk. As far as I could tell, the rubber trunk mat held all the gas that spilled, but after airing out my car for a day, it still reeks of gas. What can I do to clean it up? Thanks
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06-19-2008, 11:34 AM | #502 | ||||
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You always want to follow the proper washing and drying techniques. Here's a link to our washing and drying guide for a point of reference. If you're in need of some new washing products, consider looking into our Washing & Drying starter kit for everything you need to minimize adding swirls and other imperfections to your paint, while preserving any protection from a sealant or wax. As you glide your hand over your paint, if it feels rough to the touch, chances are you can benefit from using a clay bar. This will thoroughly remove embedded contamination on your paint that does not come off from a normal wash and dry. Here's our guide on properly using a clay bar. If you don't have many imperfections, you can skip the polishing step. Using a glaze is optional, but often used by enthusiasts on lighter color vehicles. It helps create a layer of depth and gloss on the paint, which really helps make a lighter color pop. Glazes attempt to fill in minor imperfections, which help make your paint look in better condition than it really is. A nice option is the Chemical Guys EZ-Creme Glaze. Easy to use and works well with the other sealants, which makes it a great option. Protecting your paint is important and makes maintaining your vehicle significantly easier. If you're not a fan of reapplying protection too often, invest in a good sealant. A popular sealant amongst the e90 crowd is Chemical Guys Jet Seal 109. It's very easy to use, offers sharp, clear reflections, works great with the EZ-Creme Glaze and has durable protection. I'd recommend applying Jet Seal 3 times a year for complete coverage year round, then topping it with the spray on wax after washes to boost shine and protection. You can opt to top it with a paste wax as well for even more depth and gloss. For wheels, you don't want to use an "old dirty sponge". That will create swirls and scratches on your wheels and ultimately will dull the finish. Invest in a wash mitt just for your wheels, and care for it the same as you would your paint. I'd highly recommend investing in some Poorboy's Wheel Sealant, which will properly protect your wheels from brake dust embedding into your wheels. With a quality layer of protection on your wheels, you'll be able to clean them with simply some automotive shampoo and water with ease. That's a great start. The best advice I can recommend to you is protect as many surfaces as possible. Preventing a problem is 10x easier than correcting one. Also, get in a maintenance routine, a good rule of thumb is to wash your vehicle every 2 weeks, reapply a sealant every 4 months, reapply a wax once a month. I clay and polish 2 - 3 times a year roughly. Congrats on your new vehicle, let me know if there's anything else I can help you with. Quote:
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06-19-2008, 02:36 PM | #504 | |
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Probably not in the near future, unless you can assure me a new house will be waiting for me when I arrive
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If you put Wheel Sealant and Wheel Wax in front of me and said pick one, I'd reach for Poorboy's Wheel Sealant in an instant. It's easier to work with, lasts longer and provides a slicker surface. The Blackfire Tire Gel is a great option, another one to consider is Poorboy's Bold 'n Bright. Bold 'n Bright won't last quite as long and has slightly less gloss. It really comes down to the preference of the overall finish of your tire. If you're looking for a little more shine, go with the BF dressing, more on the matte side of things, Bold 'n Bright. Thanks for the kind words, let me know if there's anything else I can give you a hand with. George |
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