[dre0415]

Originally Posted by Serf27

I saw that thread too, he shifted the subframe back using ratchet straps?
They are not physically the same, but they work the same way.

Well all I can do at this point is pray that I did not bend the subframe. Although I have seen many alternitve solutions such as adjustable tow arms and getting a hydralic and bending the frame back or a combonation of both. Id rather keep the suspension as stock as I can but honestly I wouldnt mind doing it.

[Serf27]

The rear upper arm mounting point has a thin piece of metal. That may have bent.
To bend any other part of the subframe, you would have some visible damage on control arms.
Just wait until the new arms are on before overthinking it.

[Tyc0]

Well this was certainly an interesting read… I think you will be more than okay using those autozone parts, like feuer said this wasn't a performance car to begin. And to the guy who said a fifteen year old 328xi will perform better than 99% of anything on the road…what roads are you driving on??

As it's too late to get just an alignment now I would just make sure you take the car somewhere that knows what they are doing. Like the guy who was able to get his subframe aligned, that would be worth looking into.

[e90yyc]

Originally Posted by dre0415

Well all I can do at this point is pray that I did not bend the subframe. Although I have seen many alternitve solutions such as adjustable tow arms and getting a hydralic and bending the frame back or a combonation of both. Id rather keep the suspension as stock as I can but honestly I wouldnt mind doing it.

If for some reason you discover your subframe is actually bent, I’d pick up a used subframe before spending too much time trying to true up the old one. You should be able to find one pretty cheap. (I haven’t been following this thread for a while so perhaps I’m misunderstanding. If so, nvm.)

Originally Posted by Serf27

The rear upper arm mounting point has a thin piece of metal. That may have bent.
To bend any other part of the subframe, you would have some visible damage on control arms.
Just wait until the new arms are on before overthinking it.

You’re referring to the toe arm, yeah? Again, haven’t been following every post here, but a bend in that “bracket” (as I’ll call it) shouldn’t really matter unless it’s absolutely knackered. Forgive my lack of proper terminology, but on the face of that bracket is a bump that makes contact with the eccentric washer to hold the toe position you’ve set. Once tightened down, the force should straighten out slight bending in that bracket. The bracket itself doesn’t provide much in the way of strength because the eccentric bolt is ultimately passing through a more substantial bore in the subframe, and when tightened down, the nut and washer are clamping against the subframe on the front side and the actual metal core of the bushing on the rear side.

Don’t get me wrong, the condition of that bracket is not irrelevant, but I wouldn’t worry too much about it assuming it’s okay overall.

Hope that made sense. I recently bent one side a bit when removing a bushing and had no issues with alignment. YMMV.

[dre0415]

Originally Posted by Serf27

The rear upper arm mounting point has a thin piece of metal. That may have bent.
To bend any other part of the subframe, you would have some visible damage on control arms.
Just wait until the new arms are on before overthinking it.

Yeah from what I've seen online it seems like that frame point is the weakest link. But I'll be sure to update you guys once I install all the new stuff

[dre0415]

Originally Posted by Tyc0

Well this was certainly an interesting read… I think you will be more than okay using those autozone parts, like feuer said this wasn't a performance car to begin. And to the guy who said a fifteen year old 328xi will perform better than 99% of anything on the road…what roads are you driving on??

As it's too late to get just an alignment now I would just make sure you take the car somewhere that knows what they are doing. Like the guy who was able to get his subframe aligned, that would bpe worth looking into.

Yes, I already did take it to a mechanic I trust. He was pretty confident it was the knukle. I definitely would have paid him to fix it if it was within my budget but it wasn't so I'm going to take his word on it for now and replace the knukle myself. If it doesn't work I will definitely be looking into subframe issues.

[dre0415]

Originally Posted by e90yyc

If for some reason you discover your subframe is actually bent, I’d pick up a used subframe before spending too much time trying to true up the old one. You should be able to find one pretty cheap. (I haven’t been following this thread for a while so perhaps I’m misunderstanding. If so, nvm.)



You’re referring to the toe arm, yeah? Again, haven’t been following every post here, but a bend in that “bracket” (as I’ll call it) shouldn’t really matter unless it’s absolutely knackered. Forgive my lack of proper terminology, but on the face of that bracket is a bump that makes contact with the eccentric washer to hold the toe position you’ve set. Once tightened down, the force should straighten out slight bending in that bracket. The bracket itself doesn’t provide much in the way of strength because the eccentric bolt is ultimately passing through a more substantial bore in the subframe, and when tightened down, the nut and washer are clamping against the subframe on the front side and the actual metal core of the bushing on the rear side.

Don’t get me wrong, the condition of that bracket is not irrelevant, but I wouldn’t worry too much about it assuming it’s okay overall.

Hope that made sense. I recently bent one side a bit when removing a bushing and had no issues with alignment. YMMV.

I was definitely surprised to see subframes are not as pricy as you would think. From what iv seen anywhere from $200-300. From the videos iv watched they seem to be fairly really easy to replace atleast easier that the knukle replacement. Obviously only if you have the right tools to do it. From what I've seen you disconnect drive shaft, brake lines, and wires, and then just unbolt the frame and everything comes down with it. Which would also make it alot easier to spot the actual problem.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by dre0415

I was definitely surprised to see subframes are not as pricy as you would think. From what iv seen anywhere from $200-300. From the videos iv watched they seem to be fairly really easy to replace atleast easier that the knukle replacement. Obviously only if you have the right tools to do it. From what I've seen you disconnect drive shaft, brake lines, and wires, and then just unbolt the frame and everything comes down with it. Which would also make it alot easier to spot the actual problem.

Don’t forget the exhaust. Some damages aren’t noticeable to the naked eye. I don’t recommend replacing the subframe unless damage is obvious. There are adjustable arms now readily available and relatively inexpensive too. If can’t be align with OEM arms give them a try. Replacing the subframe unless you are going to DIY it will be easily over $2000 at the shop

[Tyc0]

I think you doing it yourself is a great idea.

[dre0415]

Originally Posted by Tyc0

I think you doing it yourself is a great idea.

Yeah I definitely dont currently have the funds to pay someone else to do it.

[dre0415]

Hi guys, I just finished installing the new hub on the car with the new control arms. I have some good news when I removed the toe adjustment arm and compared it to the new one I was able to see that it was bent very slightly. It was maybe a 1 to 2 mm shorter. You can see that in the pictures below. I put bolts thru them to see if the bolts would slide through. The bolts didnt slide through meaning the old arm would have been towed out which is exactly what is happening. Unfortunately I'm struggling to get the axle out of the old hub so If anyone has tips on getting those out let me know. I should be finishing this tomorrow so I will let you all know what ends up happening.

[dre0415]

While I was working I did take another look at the subframe very closely. I could not see any obvious bends fortunately. But that still doesn't mean their are none so I have my fingers crossed for tomorrow.

[e90yyc]

BMW says not to do this, but I've used an air hammer before to remove the axle from the hub. I don't see any reason why it would be an issue as long as you're careful.

[dre0415]

Originally Posted by e90yyc

BMW says not to do this, but I've used an air hammer before to remove the axle from the hub. I don't see any reason why it would be an issue as long as you're careful.

I might give that a shot. Iv also seen people use brake drum pullers aswell. Those seem to work very well.

[e90yyc]

Originally Posted by dre0415

I might give that a shot. Iv also seen people use brake drum pullers aswell. Those seem to work very well.

That might be a smarter idea. Better to use something that provides steady force as opposed to impacts, but the when I used an air chisel the axle came out with barely any effort.

Good luck!

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by tcphoto

You lost me at eBay, Autozone and drifting. Spend any time on this forum and you'll learn that enthusiasts do not drift their cars, we generally take pride in them and maintain them well.

It wasn't drifting, it was snow drifting. E90s are no fun to drift on asphalt because of the open differential

[Serf27]

The axles on BMWs can be a nightmare to remove.
I have tried all types of pullers to pop the axle out. (California cars with no rust)
The best thing I found was to let the axle sit over night with penetrating oil. The next day, thread the nut back on almost all the way, put the socket over the nut and just hit it with a sledge hammer.

If that doesn’t work, unbolting the axle from the diff and remove the axle/hub as one piece and having a shop press the axle out.

[dre0415]

Good news guys, I installed all new componets unfortunately I had to get a new axle as old one was stuck. But I did get the car going straight but only when I adjusted the toe as far as it would possibly go. Is there any other adjustments i can make to get just a tad more or level things out?

[dre0415]

Is it possible I shifted the subframe instead of bending it?

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by dre0415

Is it possible I shifted the subframe instead of bending it?

just wrote that on the last page, that ive lost my time with changing parts, while my subfame just moved and the Euro shop did a subframe aligment.

car is straight like new

YES it is possible, and common according to the shop that only do vw, audi and porsche

be careful , a general alignment shop might do not know that, go to a euro shop

Originally Posted by Serf27

The axles on BMWs can be a nightmare to remove.
I have tried all types of pullers to pop the axle out. (California cars with no rust)
The best thing I found was to let the axle sit over night with penetrating oil. The next day, thread the nut back on almost all the way, put the socket over the nut and just hit it with a sledge hammer.

If that doesn’t work, unbolting the axle from the diff and remove the axle/hub as one piece and having a shop press the axle out.

+1, had to change the spindle.

Even with a puller, torch , fluid, name it. It was impossible, I even tried to demolish it with a heavy hammer while I replace it, and nothing moved.

was so pissed and tired, when i put back the new axle shaft, I probably didnt torque the screw, one fell off, and the link moved and cut my brake line. The most expensive subframe alignment ever.

[dre0415]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

just wrote that on the last page, that ive lost my time with changing parts, while my subfame just moved and the Euro shop did a subframe aligment.

car is straight like new

YES it is possible, and common according to the shop that only do vw, audi and porsche

be careful , a general alignment shop might do not know that, go to a euro shop



+1, had to change the spindle.

Even with a puller, torch , fluid, name it. It was impossible, I even tried to demolish it with a heavy hammer while I replace it, and nothing moved.

was so pissed and tired, when i put back the new axle shaft, I probably didnt torque the screw, one fell off, and the link moved and cut my brake line. The most expensive subframe alignment ever.

Ill definitely bring it to a euro alignment shop. Do most euro alignment shops know about this issue or is it likely I will have to explain it to them? I have a feeling that when I tell them to adjust the frame they will have no idea what im talking about and think im an idiot for asking.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by dre0415

Ill definitely bring it to a euro alignment shop. Do most euro alignment shops know about this issue or is it likely I will have to explain it to them? I have a feeling that when I tell them to adjust the frame they will have no idea what im talking about and think im an idiot for asking.

They is nothing on the subframe to be adjusted. Protruding liner enter the bushing and is fasten together with bolt. Shop are just looking to get free money. If subframe has indeed shifted then there is absolutely damage to subframe and possibly car chassis floor. Again, nothing to adjust. Is like mounting a wheel.