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Robbing the e92 M3 for suspension parts
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10-13-2008, 02:29 PM | #46 | |
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Can you please expand on this?
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Thanks in advance. |
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10-13-2008, 08:47 PM | #47 | |
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That all the parts you need. The install cost is about 7 hours. Orb |
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10-13-2008, 10:44 PM | #48 | |
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10-13-2008, 10:45 PM | #49 |
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10-13-2008, 10:52 PM | #50 | |
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Last edited by HP Autosport; 10-14-2008 at 09:08 AM.. |
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10-13-2008, 10:54 PM | #51 |
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10-13-2008, 10:58 PM | #52 | |
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Does the stock 335i setup use a bolt? According to the realoem diagram, there are two part numbers for no. 6: ASA-BOLT WITH CIRCLIP (M12X1.5X39) qty 1 & TORX BOLT (M10X16-10.9-) qty 2 ...It doesn't look like the mount itself is fastened with 3 bolts, but that might just be the picture. In any case, both parts appear to bolts. Are these what I need to mount this on a 335 and still clear the plastic cowling? Lastly, should this be installed while the car is in an allignment machine? |
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10-13-2008, 11:01 PM | #53 | |
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Orb |
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10-13-2008, 11:04 PM | #54 | |
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Give TC Kline camber/castor plates a try, you will see about +9 degrees of castor! |
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10-13-2008, 11:06 PM | #55 | |
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10-13-2008, 11:10 PM | #56 | |
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WISHBONE, LEFT 1 31102283577 RIGHT WISHBONE 1 31102283578 Orb |
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10-13-2008, 11:12 PM | #57 |
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10-13-2008, 11:12 PM | #58 | |
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The front links and thrust arms are much more criticle in keeping alignment in check and get rid some of that understeer. As with the rear subframe mounts....you are on the right track! This will take away all the funny business the rear-end is trying to do! Minus the dog-leg burnout of course. You will need a Quaife ATB or similar LSD for that. |
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10-13-2008, 11:14 PM | #59 |
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10-13-2008, 11:20 PM | #60 | |
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No, #4 is what you should worry about. See where #5 is? Use a bolt there, not a stud. The hole next to it as well, use a bolt not a stud. Otherwise the cowling will have a hard time seating correctly as there is no relieve for the studs or bolts. The bolts will have a lower profile, thus more clearance to the cowling. |
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10-13-2008, 11:29 PM | #61 | |
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The custom plates I had made up and starting point but I don’t want to put to much caster in either not should one go past 1 degree from default settings but i can make the plates accept 9 degrees of caster. Very low speeds suffer with to much castor so I willing to trade off a bit for my day to day drive. Orb |
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10-13-2008, 11:41 PM | #62 | |
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The stock front tension strut in combination with the top rubber mounts makes the whole thing a horror show. The car was totally design to induce under steer at the limit. By removing one of the parts it will help reduce under steer but the tension strut is a better choice Orb |
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10-13-2008, 11:49 PM | #63 | |
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Orb |
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10-13-2008, 11:58 PM | #64 | |
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I guess I must have missed it. We have eliminated the stock tension strut as well as soon as the M3 component was available. Perhaps I should put this together as a understeer reduce kit! Harold |
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10-14-2008, 01:21 AM | #65 |
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This thread is mostly over my head, so bear with me, guys.
Which M3 parts would you recommend for someone with an e92 335 with KWV2's who does not track their car but wants tighter/firmer/improved handling characteristics for the street? Just from what I have been able to gather from this thread, I am interested in front and rear M3 bushings (I assume I cannot re-use my stock control arms, and need to order the M3 arms?), strut bar, and front and rear isolators that Orb mentioned were "slop city." What else should I be looking at? Im not interested in the rear diff. Also Orb mentioned "thrust arms", but posted "wishbone" part numbers - does the wishbone include control arms and thrust arms? Im such a noob, I know. |
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10-14-2008, 01:45 AM | #66 |
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i thought someone had confirmed that the m3 diff would not fit our cars, although i don't remember the reason behind it exactly.
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