[Chriztofor]

Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115

BUMP! Quick update here guys. Apparently these Duralast batteries don't last at all. The one I bought in May of last year, failed testing, yesterday, and I'm getting it replaced under the two year warranty. The one I bought last september for my Audi A6 3.2 Quattro, failed testing last week, and was replaced under the Gold 3-year warranty. My advice is that if you buy this brand, save your receipt like I did, and get it tested yearly.

It probably wasn't the battery, it died because your mechanic didn't register it.

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by Chriztofor

It probably wasn't the battery, it died because your mechanic didn't register it.

What does battery registration have to do with Cold Crank Amps?

[Chriztofor]

Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115

What does battery registration have to do with Cold Crank Amps?

On post 32 you said that your mechanic didn't register it, that MAY be the cause for the battery failing.

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by Chriztofor

On post 32 you said that your mechanic didn't register it, that MAY be the cause for the battery failing.

No, the battery failed because it wasn't making enough cold cranking amps. 417, and its rated 850. the voltage was fine at 12, which means the alternator is charging the battery fine. The only thing registering is supposed to do is prevent over charging. As the battery ages, the alternator charges it more aggressively. If you change an old battery, the theory is that the new one will get over charged, if you don't register it. I still don't believe this.

[Chriztofor]

Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115

No, the battery failed because it wasn't making enough cold cranking amps. 417, and its rated 850. the voltage was fine at 12, which means the alternator is charging the battery fine. The only thing registering is supposed to do is prevent over charging. As the battery ages, the alternator charges it more aggressively. If you change an old battery, the theory is that the new one will get over charged, if you don't register it. I still don't believe this.

The battery you installed last year (Duralast 49-DL) is rated 850 CCA. What is OEM suppose to be rated at? Are you saying that the duralast is only putting out 417 CCA? If you are load testing the battery it is suppose to read about 425. 417 would seem close enough. This is what I found on the internet,

Load testing is yet another way of testing a battery. Load test removes amps from a battery much like starting an engine would. A load tester can be purchased at most auto parts stores. Some battery companies label their battery with the amp load for testing. This number is usually 1/2 of the CCA rating. For instance, a 500CCA battery would load test at 250 amps for 15 seconds. A load test can only be performed if the battery is near or at full charge.

[Chriztofor]

Just as a fyi, my OEM battery is rated at 720 CCA and I just load tested it and it showed 400 CCA.

Edit: My battery/load tester is only 50 amp. You might need a 100 amp one to accurately test CCA. http://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp...ter-90636.html

At least I have a baseline reading of what my numbers should be for future reference.

Until this post, I never paid attention to CCA. I just put my tester on it to see if the battery was reading 12 when not running, 14 when running, and 11 when not running and with a load. Normally, with a bad battery, when you put a load on it, the tester drops down to 2.

[queensfield]

My battery on 2006 330i is rated 720CCA, 90A-h and 160RC. I have looked everywhere in the local auto stores (Pepboys, Autozone, Walmart and Sears) and I cannot find a suitable replacement that matched this rating. What would be the closest battery that I can purchase? Any suggestions will be very useful. Thank you.

[Chriztofor]

Originally Posted by queensfield

My battery on 2006 330i is rated 720CCA, 90A-h and 160RC. I have looked everywhere in the local auto stores (Pepboys, Autozone, Walmart and Sears) and I cannot find a suitable replacement that matched this rating. What would be the closest battery that I can purchase? Any suggestions will be very useful. Thank you.

You live in CA, are you close to Tischer BMW? They are selling oem for $160. I have the same battery as yours and can't find an aftermarket replacement with the same specs. I think I will be using OEM when mine dies.

[queensfield]

Thanks. I think Tischer is in Maryland, unless they have something in SoCal that I don't know about. Dealer is selling OEM battery alone at $260, which I think is a rip off. If u come across an alterntive, please share. I am still trying for an aftermarket replacement.

[benzo23]

Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115

I don't buy anything from the dealership $340 for a battery is insane.

I agree 340 is nuts thats why I paid cost on it at a tune of 125 and paid a tech 20 on the side to program it for me...

[Abutler330i]

Not to scare the living be Jesus out of You all, but I had similar issues and battery caught on fire and burned my car while driving it 3 weeks ago. See my post under battery area caught fire in this forum and take a look the pics! Horrific event. Battery issue is a no brainer Dont play with it. I lost my fav 330i.

[Weaselboy]

Originally Posted by Abutler330i

Not to scare the living be Jesus out of You all, but I had similar issues and battery caught on fire and burned my car while driving it 3 weeks ago. See my post under battery area caught fire in this forum and take a look the pics! Horrific event. Battery issue is a no brainer Dont play with it. I lost my fav 330i.

You don't say anything in your other thread about replacing the battery, so just how is your experience relevant to the battery registration issue?

[AlanAZ]

Roundel magazine, February 2011, page 99:

... One of the computers actually tailors how the alternator charges the battery; it takes into consideration both the type and age of battery, so it needs to know when you replace the battery so that it can determine how to charge it. It doesn't charge a fresh battery the same way it charges an older battery, and there's a good chance that the computer will charge a cold battery too aggressively, or over-charge an AGM-style battery, which needs to be charged differently from a conventional battery. Ignoring this registration won't necessarily trigger a fault light, but there's a good chance it will shorten the life of the new battery.
Unfortunately, it takes a scan tool... Bottom line: Anyone can change the battery, but it will take someone with this special tool to do the job correctly.

[queensfield]

Has anyone used this battery from Sears? I am looking one for my 2006 330i (E90). OEM is rated 720 CCA, 90Ah with 160 RC. The one below states 730 CCA with 3 year full and 100 month partial warranty. I am not sure of whether its size matches OEM.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...eries&sLevel=3

[Weaselboy]

Originally Posted by queensfield

Has anyone used this battery from Sears? I am looking one for my 2006 330i (E90). OEM is rated 720 CCA, 90Ah with 160 RC. The one below states 730 CCA with 3 year full and 100 month partial warranty. I am not sure of whether its size matches OEM.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...eries&sLevel=3

This series 94R battery is the proper size for your car.