[sesegal99]

Can you post better picts of the on/off switch so we know what type you are talking about? Thanks. I have the shock sensor, but may have to run to radio shack for the on/off switch as I would want to be able to disable if need be or if shock sensor starts giving to many false alarms.

[ironic]

Hey guys, sorry I haven't checked this thread in a while. Been uber busy lately.

Anyways on to the questions.

-Unfortunately, I'm not putting together the kits anymore as the shock sensors were too much of a pain to source.

-If the sensor lights up but doesn't set off the alarm it's because the trigger wire is wrong. There should be two wires coming from the sensor for triggers, try the other wire.

-link to switch: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

[jstar41]

nice to see this trick works on the e9x's too.. I have it on my e46, did this back in 2002.. now I just ordered it for my 08 e92!!! best bang for the buck!

[jstar41]

ha .. getting my alarm installed now @ circlebmw.. while i'm waiting i was reviewing the ON/OFF button.. and realized that on my e46, whenever I want to disable the shock sensor all I have to do is disable the motion detector.. you do this by pressing the lock button on your keyfob twice.. 1 press locks and arms + motion ON.. 2 presses locks and arms and disables motion.. and since the shock sensor is working with the motion sensor it will disable the shock sensor.. is this not the case with this DIY, e92?

[klaudio]

i have a question: i see that the pin 2 and 3 is high and low have anyone have tryed to conect the pre alarm wire to any of these pins

[milki]

Hey ironic, I tried to message you but your mailbox is full. Are you still performing this mod? I'm in The Bay Area and willing to go to you. Please let me know. Also, if anyone is out here and willing to do it please feel free to message me as well. Thank you.

[knivez]

Is there anyway we can get pictures back up?

Originally Posted by knivez

Is there anyway we can get pictures back up?

word

[got_psi]

^^ +1

[my07_335i]

any chance of geting the pictures posted back up? Also is the tilt sensor inside the brain unit in the headliner? I'm thinking of running wires to the trunk to a N/O switch so that when the trunk pops, it cuts power to the shock sensor, but would love to see photos of the install again, none of them are hosted

also what is the point of using diodes...are you worried about voltage flowing back across one of the wires? I'm fairly electrically inclined, so I may work on a P&P harness to go between the brain and the cable to require no cutting or tapping of wires...i really dont want to splice into any wires on my expensive toy If I do, I'll think about making them for others to do this.

[my07_335i]

Heres some DIY pdf's i found, not sure if they were the same as what used to be posted

now to go about finding the connectors used in the alarm wiring harness to see how much work would be required to make my own wiring harness.

[Cameron™]

Okay, so I'm having a slight issue installing the shock sensor...

On my first attempt, I followed all of the directions exactly, using wire taps from Radio Shack. When it didn't work that time, I tried again, this time clamping the connections even more securely. When it didn't work that time, I tried again, this time stripping the wires and aligning the stripped portion with the metal contact in the wire tap. Finally, when that didn't work, I tried switching the green and blue wires (as depending on which set of instructions you look at on the internet, it varies). Anyway, it still isn't working -- the LED doesn't come on at all (armed or unarmed) and, needless to say, it won't set off the alarm.

Having done all of this, I feel like another attempt would have a higher probability of severing the connection to the still-working motion sensor than actually getting the shock sensor to work. I've double-checked all of the wires numerous times, by PIN position and by colour combination, and I can't think of anything else to try. I ordered the shock sensor from Amazon, and I don't have any way of absolutely determining that it isn't faulty.

Does anyone have a suggestion as to what the problem might be and how to go about fixing it? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Edit: Some guides refer to using 504M instead of 504D...I've read that the wiring is slightly different, so I was wondering if that has anything to do with it. If it should work, I could order it under the assumption that the 504D I have now is faulty, which I still don't have any way of determining.

[aretardedorange]

anyone got the pics? Any more advice??

[Cameron™]

Originally Posted by aretardedorange

anyone got the pics? Any more advice??

It seems like I never replied once I finally got mine working; in retrospect the loose connections were what prevented smooth operation initially. For that reason alone, and especially when you combine it with the irreversible modification to the electrical system (wire crimping), the best option is to make an adapter as an intermediary connector between the original connectors.

my07_335i made a guide to do that (which you can find here) and even shipped me one for a reasonable price with plastic shrink-wrap pre-installed and everything. It allows for a solid connection without modifying any preexisting components of the vehicle.

I can try to take a few pictures of my verified working configuration if you'd like, although I'm not sure how useful it would be since I installed it solely following the instructions in the first post.

[Shane23]

yea where are the pics... would like to attempt this as i plan on install the alarm tommorow

[Benitos]

I tested this DIY and works!

But ..... if the shock sensor is triggered the alarm will go off 30 seconds, then other 30 seconds
and then it will stop but also inhibiting the sensors so if you kick the car again or break into the car, the alarm will not be triggered.


I apologize for my english. Thank you very much

[dylim]

Help needed! Just got a DEI 504K, which comes with the led/switch. It has 5 wires, 4 of which are the same:

Red: power
Black: ground
Blue: alarm (-) output
green: warn (-) output

This one is new:

Yellow: (-) turn on input. Connect this wire to the true ignition wire. This wire must rest at ground when the key is in the off position.

Two questions...
1. can I just leave this yellow wire unconnected?
2. should I connect/fusetap this yellow wire to the fuse for homelink? (for my car, this shows fuses 07, 63).

[charmin]

Just fitted this to my 06/2009 Facelift 320i and thought it might be worth an update...

So I followed the very good Install from 2007 thread, all the wiring has remained the same it seems for many years, pinout on connectors etc.

The 07 write-up was very good but I think these are the things you might struggle with... I did..!

I found the rear interior light cluster came out really easy by grabbing the edge towrds the front of the car and just prising my fingers under the edge and pulling down and back....



In preparation for fitting the DEI shock sensor which I bought from the USA for about £11 inc P&P I pre-wired it with 1N4004 Diode and an in line FUSE (1Amp). For me the fuse is critical for any accesory you fit, past bad experience has taught me well ! Maplin 76p


The diode was 64p from Maplin, soldered in place and length of heat shrink over diode.



I tried using the Tap-in 'Squeeze' connectors as shown in the original post, one of the reasons I'm guessing 'Ironic' changed to a pre-wired harness was the squeeze connectors don't work, simply because the guage of the wire on the DEI unit is to thin for them to cut through and make a good connection, even if you use the smaller red type as shown.

There have been a lot of people who installed this saying they couldn't get it to work, I'm pretty certain this is the reason.

The other thing to note to save confusion is that the wires are colured Pin 1 Red with Black tracer, Pin 7 is Black with Red tracer.. they are not the same.

So I tried various methods and even contemplated soldering, but the thought of accidently dropping the soldering iron onto my leather seats made me think again !
After several attempts with various connectors I abandoned car type crimps in favour of a simple 'chock block' connector, not the best but the connection is pretty simple but it is fidely and your arms are up in the air for ages...



Yes this means cutting through the wiring harness and you will have to think twice if still under warranty, otherwise you need to make up the linking harness as in the update to the original post.

Strip back the wires, twist and screw into the choc-block, now that was easy.. just be carefull if you haven't disconnected the battery you dont touch any of the bared wires to each other or to the metalwork of the car

I then quite neatly taped the harness back up, re- connected the light and motion sensor unit, slid the fuse holder under the motion sensor connector and pushed the DEI Shock unit into the space as shown, it fits perfectly with a bit of a push.

I tested it several times over the whole process hence finding out that 'squeeze' connectors for this install don't work, the LED will light when the unit is tapped as described, I re-adjusted the sensitivity slightly, turn the orange adjustment from the 12 o'clock position (which mine was set at) to about the 1 or 2 o'clock position, I'd say no more than that or you will get lots of false triggers.

Whole assembly fitted back into roof.

Things I found out:

Perfectly sited for detecting an attempted window break in, a good tap on any window sets it off, will trigger with a good knock to the front of the car and to the back but needs quite a good kick of the tyre... roof is sensitive but heavy rain and drumming fingers haven't triggerd it. So I'm thinking optimised... we'll see.

The DEI Shock sensor does not turn off when you disable the motion sensor, however if you don' set it to sensitive it should be fine without an on-off switch.

This job is probably really a 4 on the difficulty scale, but only because it is fidely and your arms get tired reaching up...

The Diode, good question, a good idea to have it, hard to know what's going up and down the OEM sensor cable, better safe than sorry, also the fuse for me is a must.

Have yet to try and see if after triggering twice it disarms the sensor as mentioned in one of the recent posts, something to try tomorrow, already upset the neighbours today ;-)

[jaylouie]

does anyone have a problem with the shock sensor still being active when you open and close the trunk while the car is still armed? any fixes?

for example. when I come back from buying groceries, I open the trunk and then close the trunk. When I close the trunk, my alarm siren goes off because the shock sensor is still active.

[charmin]

jaylouie : You prob need to start by letting us know where have you fitted the sensor..... ?

But my initial thought is your saying the car is still armed when you open close the trunk, I'm guessing your using the trunk remote only. If that is the case you need to disarm the alarm first, closing the trunk, the vibration is very likely to trigger the sensor which is the whole idea ! or turn down the sensitivity of the sensor, but you might miss a real trigger then.

[jaylouie]

I have it wedged in the small spot next to the ultrasonic sensor. I guess i need to disarm the car before i open the trunk. I usually use the remote trunk button to get in and out of the trunk.

Originally Posted by charmin

jaylouie : You prob need to start by letting us know where have you fitted the sensor..... ?

But my initial thought is your saying the car is still armed when you open close the trunk, I'm guessing your using the trunk remote only. If that is the case you need to disarm the alarm first, closing the trunk, the vibration is very likely to trigger the sensor which is the whole idea ! or turn down the sensitivity of the sensor, but you might miss a real trigger then.

[charmin]

Well it's fitted to the best place and sounds like it's doing what it's supposed to do.

The problem is the interior ultrasonic sensor trigger to the alarm where the shock sensor is tapped into is always active, even when you disable the ultrasonic by double pressing the lock button on the remote, that just turns off the ultrasonic sensor, the trigger wire to the alarm is still active.

Opening the boot (trunk) with the remote does disable the boot sensor but not the interior sensor where you have tapped into.

I did consider this when fitting my shock sensor but you would have to run the trigger wire from the shock sensor into the boot and onto the alarm switch, I assumed the trunk light switch is also the alarm trigger but never investigated it.

So yes, I always remote open the car before opening the trunk. Overall I think this small annoyance is worth it for the peace of mind knowing the shock sensor is there, mine has been triggered only once as far as I know and I believe it was someone knocking the wing mirror accidentally as they walked past.

I will have a look at the trunk switch when I get a chance and see if it could be an easy mod...

Cheers.