[Dan_Q]

Originally Posted by danas

I FIXED THE ANNOYING CLUNK!!

Well thank you for posting. I always suspected it was something like this. Part of the reason I bought an entire pumpkin was because I wanted to know the backlash was set right. And buying on from a place like MFactory who adjusts these all day long every day is a good way to ensure that. Pulling off the exhaust is pretty easy so this should be a quick fix.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by ajsalida

But another thing is as far as I know you cannot turn off the e-diff. Ever. It is always on and only works under power, and only engages when it sense excessive wheelspin on one wheel inconsistent with other sensor data. Unlike a true LSD that will enforce some % max lock-up regardless. It does not get turned off with DTC on or with DSC full off.

I have e90 335i build date 4/2008 Mtech manual and it will spin one wheel endlessly when you turn DSC completely off. Supposedly, only on early e9x it wasn't possible to completely turn it off. Or only on early e9x you can turn it off. I forgot. Anyhow, my car will red line and spin only one wheel.

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by feuer

I have e90 335i build date 4/2008 Mtech manual and it will spin one wheel endlessly when you turn DSC completely off. Supposedly, only on early e9x it wasn't possible to completely turn it off. Or only on early e9x you can turn it off. I forgot. Anyhow, my car will red line and spin only one wheel.

Yeah it is later 08-on that can't be turned off. They bundled e-diff into ABS etc. However recently some have succeeded in coding it out, or appear to have, there is a thread on it in the Coding section.

[ritzzzzzwik]

Originally Posted by ajsalida

Yeah it is later 08-on that can't be turned off. They bundled e-diff into ABS etc. However recently some have succeeded in coding it out, or appear to have, there is a thread on it in the Coding section.

Bringing this thread back from the dead.

I wanted to know if the ediff was purely a DME controlled feature. I ask because I had an MSD80 DME which went out and was replaced with IJE0S, and I am not really sure if that brought the e-diff feature with itself.

I am looking MFactory/Wavetrack but leaning towards Wavetrack after reading this review.

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by ritzzzzzwik

Bringing this thread back from the dead.

I wanted to know if the ediff was purely a DME controlled feature. I ask because I had an MSD80 DME which went out and was replaced with IJE0S, and I am not really sure if that brought the e-diff feature with itself.

I am looking MFactory/Wavetrack but leaning towards Wavetrack after reading this review.

If you're asking me I don't know but it is a good question. I know there are many separate stand-alone modules that talk to DME over the canbus, I would think DSC/DTC/ABS would be one of them.

The Bentley manual seems to indicate ABS/DSC module in the engine compartment up on the left side of the firewall below the windshield is a combined hydraulic/electronic control until for both. I would think the software that controls the e-diff feature (and traction control) resides in there but who knows.

You could test by turning DSC/DTC full off, finding a place you can put one rear wheel on pavement and the other off (or on ice if there is any left), and seeing if the e-diff is still working. If you punch the throttle just sit there and spin the off pavement wheel you have no e-diff.

[mlifxs]

Originally Posted by Dan_Q

Well thank you for posting. I always suspected it was something like this. Part of the reason I bought an entire pumpkin was because I wanted to know the backlash was set right. And buying on from a place like MFactory who adjusts these all day long every day is a good way to ensure that. Pulling off the exhaust is pretty easy so this should be a quick fix.

op, curious, did this fix work for you?

[Dan_Q]

Originally Posted by mlifxs

op, curious, did this fix work for you?

I did pull the exhaust and preload the center support bearing. It helped with minimizing the clunk but it is still there some. That may not be the fault of the diff though. When I removed the heat shield between the driveshaft and the exhaust, it was apparent that some cast off material (rubber? lubricant?) had come from the center support bearing area. So perhaps some damage ensued from not having it preloaded sufficiently from the get go and then driving on it for a few months. I suspect that some day I will replace that bearing and maybe the clunk will be gone for good. Clutch replacement time would be a good time to do it without adding too much work.

[mlifxs]

Originally Posted by Dan_Q

I did pull the exhaust and preload the center support bearing. It helped with minimizing the clunk but it is still there some. That may not be the fault of the diff though. When I removed the heat shield between the driveshaft and the exhaust, it was apparent that some cast off material (rubber? lubricant?) had come from the center support bearing area. So perhaps some damage ensued from not having it preloaded sufficiently from the get go and then driving on it for a few months. I suspect that some day I will replace that bearing and maybe the clunk will be gone for good. Clutch replacement time would be a good time to do it without adding too much work.

thank you!

[StealYourFace]

Didn't read the whole thread but in your long term impressions you mention that you still are not getting all the power down -
As long as you aren't smoking the inside wheel, then the diff is doing everything it should for you (you know this obviously). I remember I had a 1993 Firebird Formula LT1/M6 when I was in college - That thing had power for back in the day. I autocrossed it extensively.... unfortunately the factory LSD was smoked, so I would just light up the inside wheel under power. The only good thing is that it taught me a little finesse... which I immediately forgot once I put a new diff in

My 330i doesn't have nearly the torque as your car, but a 3.38 LSD was still the best upgrade I could've made. The shorter gears woke it up and being able to get in the power earlier on track is awesome.

[davidwarren]

op - do you know what fluid you filled the diff with? If you used limited slip fluid with friction modifiers, it would make a helical diff work less efficiently. I changed from 75w90ns to 75w140ns and it is much quieter.