[marv85]

Originally Posted by E92mech

Indeed. Because I have new plugs and injectors, I would think that if there was a single cylinder issue that you'd be right and the first move would be to swap a coil.

However, in my case on this single pull 3 cylinders had corrections, one was 6 degrees, and the other two were 3 degrees. The corrections were finite and did not last throughout the pull.

Another way of wording my question to the gurus: At what amplitude of timing correction and in how many cylinders would you start to worry that you are running too aggressive a map for your gas?

I haven't looked at your logs yet, but usually 3deg drop if fine (6 is too much). when you're dropping CONSISTENTLY over multile cylinders then you are on the aggressive side

[Brentis]

What is the better value pro tune or Fmic for stage 1+? I don't know what a tune costs and the Fmic has warranty and labor involved. I am sure the usual answer is "both" but 4.01 usually satisfies anyway.

What are everyone's thoughts and which is the easiest and best bang for the buck? (Oh yeah cobb tuner is 20 min from home)

Thx!

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by Brentis

What is the better value pro tune or Fmic for stage 1+? I don't know what a tune costs and the Fmic has warranty and labor involved. I am sure the usual answer is "both" but 4.01 usually satisfies anyway.

What are everyone's thoughts and which is the easiest and best bang for the buck? (Oh yeah cobb tuner is 20 min from home)

Thx!

IMO a protune won't be worth it until you have the supporting mods to make good power on pump gas for extended pulls. I'm sure a good tuner could build you a map that is reasonably strong for one pull, but the ridiculous charge temps will cause timing to fall apart quickly and you'll be limping along, and the backpressure/heat produced by the OE downpipes will cause their own inefficiencies. Get the intercooler and use Stg1+ for the time being, they're pretty darn good maps for ots and catted downpipes. When you want more power, then look into FBO and/or a protune.

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by Brentis

What is the better value pro tune or Fmic for stage 1+? I don't know what a tune costs and the Fmic has warranty and labor involved. I am sure the usual answer is "both" but 4.01 usually satisfies anyway.

What are everyone's thoughts and which is the easiest and best bang for the buck? (Oh yeah cobb tuner is 20 min from home)

Thx!

IMO I would go S1+. I am not sure how much you can gain from stock FMIC and going pro tune. You are highly prone to heat soak. I really don't see how FMIC would be on any dealer's radar, but it is a mod. My SA is very cool so no worries on my end. Either way you need a tune, but I guess you can get a little more ponies out of S1 Pro Tune than S1+. Maybe for short bursts. But I would still go with FMIC, lower IAT makes Car happy.

[Brentis]

Thx. Failed to mention I have PE exhaust and drop in along with the cobb.

Does anyone know the power difference between protune and stage 1+. Give or take?

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by Brentis

Thx. Failed to mention I have PE exhaust and drop in along with the cobb.

Does anyone know the power difference between protune and stage 1+. Give or take?

Check out my thread

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=746740

Il post later a VD graph of S1+ Agg.

[Brentis]

What is the difference prices wise? Also I am asking because I got the mtech front bumper and bs or not seriously feel more recovery from the 50% added airflow. Makes me wonder if it helping even 15% would make a protune more worthwhile. - as long as it doesn't cost more than$300 or so.

[Brentis]

Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42

Check out my thread

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=746740

Il post later a VD graph of S1+ Agg.

I've seen this. Don't know what 50% ethanol is lol. Just want 93. Perfect world I would have protune and fmic, just like finding the best value for the least hassle. .

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by Brentis

What is the difference prices wise? Also I am asking because I got the mtech front bumper and bs or not seriously feel more recovery from the 50% added airflow. Makes me wonder if it helping even 15% would make a protune more worthwhile. - as long as it doesn't cost more than$300 or so.

If price is the #1 concern I'd recommend picking up a VRSF intercooler(or another brand used) and go with stage 1+ maps over a protune map on a stock car. Like what has already been said, the stock IC is CRAP and will heatsoak quickly which kills timing and performance(regardless of increased airflow across it or not.)

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by Brentis

I've seen this. Don't know what 50% ethanol is lol. Just want 93. Perfect world I would have protune and fmic, just like finding the best value for the least hassle. .

Ok I am smelling what you are stepping in. Best value for least hassle, I guess i would just leave it at S1 Agg. No protune, just isn't worth it. And FMIC would bring great Value but as you said, labor, especially if you can't do this yourself. So essentially, go FMIC or or just stick with S1 Agg.

50% ethanol is premium pump gas blended with E85 pump to get 50% Ethanol content. The E85 is the fuel for flex fuel vehicles.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E85

[blakdout335]

All, I have done some exterior MOD's and now looking at the best bang for my buck in terms of performance mod's. Have a few on my list, but wanting to know from your experiences, what should be my first?
1. Suspension (which one, KW, H&R?, more)
2. ECU
3. FMIC
4. Intake
5. Exhaust

Help.
2009 335i LCI
Mtec H8's, 19" staggered, M3 rear spoiler, Smoked reflectors.

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by blakdout335

All, I have done some exterior MOD's and now looking at the best bang for my buck in terms of performance mod's. Have a few on my list, but wanting to know from your experiences, what should be my first?
1. Suspension (which one, KW, H&R?, more)
2. ECU
3. FMIC
4. Intake
5. Exhaust

Help.
2009 335i LCI
Mtec H8's, 19" staggered, M3 rear spoiler, Smoked reflectors.

Since this is a COOB AccessPORT thread, I would say COBB AP

[EJ_3]

Originally Posted by blakdout335

All, I have done some exterior MOD's and now looking at the best bang for my buck in terms of performance mod's. Have a few on my list, but wanting to know from your experiences, what should be my first?
1. Suspension (which one, KW, H&R?, more)
2. ECU
3. FMIC
4. Intake
5. Exhaust

Help.
2009 335i LCI
Mtec H8's, 19" staggered, M3 rear spoiler, Smoked reflectors.

That's the order I wish I would have went. Looks good. Suspension, you can't go wrong with any reputative company. If depends on if you're looking to lower the car or doing some mild to serious tracking; it's all preference. You might want to add tires to the list if you're still on rft.

[AltecBX]

Originally Posted by Brentis

What is the better value pro tune or Fmic for stage 1+? I don't know what a tune costs and the Fmic has warranty and labor involved. I am sure the usual answer is "both" but 4.01 usually satisfies anyway.

What are everyone's thoughts and which is the easiest and best bang for the buck? (Oh yeah cobb tuner is 20 min from home)

Thx!

Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42

Ok I am smelling what you are stepping in. Best value for least hassle, I guess i would just leave it at S1 Agg. No protune, just isn't worth it. And FMIC would bring great Value but as you said, labor, especially if you can't do this yourself. So essentially, go FMIC or or just stick with S1 Agg.

50% ethanol is premium pump gas blended with E85 pump to get 50% Ethanol content. The E85 is the fuel for flex fuel vehicles.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E85

+1

Originally Posted by blakdout335

All, I have done some exterior MOD's and now looking at the best bang for my buck in terms of performance mod's. Have a few on my list, but wanting to know from your experiences, what should be my first?
1. Suspension (which one, KW, H&R?, more)
2. ECU
3. FMIC
4. Intake
5. Exhaust

Help.
2009 335i LCI
Mtec H8's, 19" staggered, M3 rear spoiler, Smoked reflectors.

1. ECU (tune controls ecu)
2. Intake (more air, more air to mix with fuel for higher load)
3. Downpipes (less restriction for turbos)
4. FMIC (cooler air)
5. Exhaust (less back pressure)
6. Fuel (octane 91, 93, e85)
7. Suspension & Chassis bits (now that you figured out what power you're putting down, you'll see what parts need addressing (LSD, springs, struts, spoiler, etc..)
8. Retune #1 for the following 2-7

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by AltecBX

+1



1. ECU (tune controls ecu)
2. Intake (more air, more air to mix with fuel for higher load)
3. Downpipes (less restriction for turbos)
4. FMIC (cooler air)
5. Exhaust (less back pressure)
6. Fuel (octane 91, 93, e85)
7. Suspension & Chassis bits (now that you figured out what power you're putting down, you'll see what parts need addressing (LSD, springs, struts, spoiler, etc..)
8. Retune #1 for the following 2-7

I dunno @AltecBX I think I am going to disagree with you on 3&4. I would swap 3&4. It has mostly said on here that S1+ Agg. is better than S2. One may argue where one lives in cooler climates, upgraded FMIC isn't on their priority lists. It was a must here in Cali, FMIC before DPs. just my $.02

i was getting upwards of 140+ IATs with Stock FMIC on 2nd Pull, @ 90°+ OA.

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42

I dunno @AltecBX I think I am going to disagree with you on 3&4. I would swap 3&4. It has mostly said on here that S1+ Agg. is better than S2. One may argue where one lives in cooler climates, upgraded FMIC isn't on their priority lists. It was a must here in Cali, FMIC before DPs. just my $.02

i was getting upwards of 140+ IATs with Stock FMIC on 2nd Pull, @ 90°+ OA.

Agreed about FMIC before downpipes. Unless you live in a COLD climate, an intercooler that actually….cools, will be of more use than catless downpipes. Stg1+ is pretty strong, in my experience stronger than Stg2. We’ve all looked over logs on OE intercoolers with CATs well in excess of 100 deg, when outside temps were in the 80s. Also, downpipes just bring a lot of hassle that some people don’t want to deal with, an intercooler you install correctly and move on with your life. The smell, smoke, the fact that it’s illegal..there are times I wish my DPs were OE. In the end it’s worth it to go catless, but before crossing that bridge I’d def go with an intercooler first. The stock one is abysmal, frankly pretty lame that BMW would stick us with that plastic box they call an intercooler. The core is a joke, the size is a joke, the end tanks are jokes. It’s bad news.

[blakdout335]

Appreciate all of the input.

Was looking at the Cobb AP obviously, how about the Injen Intake? Any specific recomm on the Intake. That's a pretty easy and inexpensive upgrade. I live in the D.C. area so Summer is as hot as anywhere, Winter's aren't that bad normally...as far as the FMIC discussion. Cobb - $895 from what I've seen, and Injen intakes about $400. Thoughts?

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by blakdout335

Appreciate all of the input.

Was looking at the Cobb AP obviously, how about the Injen Intake? Any specific recomm on the Intake. That's a pretty easy and inexpensive upgrade. I live in the D.C. area so Summer is as hot as anywhere, Winter's aren't that bad normally...as far as the FMIC discussion. Cobb - $895 from what I've seen, and Injen intakes about $400. Thoughts?

You're in luck that you live in DC. There is a big bimmer crowd up there and you're local to jake@PTF.

Like what others have said, i recommend picking up an upgraded FMIC ASAP. If i were doing it all over again, i would do tune, FMIC and intake to start with.

The intake debate is one that never seems to end. Honestly, there is no right intake to buy. Most guys run the DCI because it is cheap($100) and has proven itself hundreds of times over. Basically, buy the intake based on how much you want to spend and how you want the engine bay to look.

An AP may retail for $895 but if you talk to a vendor you can get it for A LOT cheaper than that.

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by Ænema

You're in luck that you live in DC. There is a big bimmer crowd up there and you're local to jake@PTF.

Like what others have said, i recommend picking up an upgraded FMIC ASAP. If i were doing it all over again, i would do tune, FMIC and intake to start with.

The intake debate is one that never seems to end. Honestly, there is no right intake to buy. Most guys run the DCI because it is cheap($100) and has proven itself hundreds of times over. Basically, buy the intake based on how much you want to spend and how you want the engine bay to look.

An AP may retail for $895 but if you talk to a vendor you can get it for A LOT cheaper than that.

Really? Man, I mean I see dozens of BMWs daily driving from my area in Bethesda/Chevy Chase to downtown, but it is extremely rare to see one that is clearly modded. In the last month I’ve seen an E46 M3 with some cosmetic mods, and an E92 with CSL wheels but it sounded bone stock as it drove past me. Only BMW that tried to do a pull was a stock E90 335 a few weeks ago, he got a few bus lengths put on him lol. To be clear, he started it! Maybe I’m just looking in the wrong places?

And agreed on intakes. People will always fight over what’s best. I just know that my trusty BMS DCI does the job and didn’t cost upwards of $500 bucks (downpipe money). The Injens and AFE products look great and I’m sure they work well, perhaps marginally better than the DCI, but I’m not spending half a grand on filters that sit under a closed hood. No way no how.

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by E92mech

Indeed. Because I have new plugs and injectors, I would think that if there was a single cylinder issue that you'd be right and the first move would be to swap a coil.

However, in my case on this single pull 3 cylinders had corrections, one was 6 degrees, and the other two were 3 degrees. The corrections were finite and did not last throughout the pull.

Another way of wording my question to the gurus: At what amplitude of timing correction and in how many cylinders would you start to worry that you are running too aggressive a map for your gas?

Edit: Doing some searching revealed some threads elsewhere in which it said that timing corrections in no more than 3 cylinders at a time at WOT is acceptable. Do you agree?

Your log wasn't that bad, but there are more corrections than what i would like to see. Try swapping over to the sport map and see how the corrections look then or try another brand of top tier gasoline and see if it helps.

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by 135Pats

Really? Man, I mean I see dozens of BMWs daily driving from my area in Bethesda/Chevy Chase to downtown, but it is extremely rare to see one that is clearly modded. In the last month I’ve seen an E46 M3 with some cosmetic mods, and an E92 with CSL wheels but it sounded bone stock as it drove past me. Only BMW that tried to do a pull was a stock E90 335 a few weeks ago, he got a few bus lengths put on him lol. To be clear, he started it! Maybe I’m just looking in the wrong places?

Yeah man, if you have a Facebook i recommend checking out the FB page "Bimmer Alliance" there is a really healthy number of members on there and they usually do cars & coffee meets every week or so.

http://www.facebook.com/groups/511846452162411/

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by Ænema

Yeah man, if you have a Facebook i recommend checking out the FB page "Bimmer Alliance" there is a really healthy number of members on there and they usually do cars & coffee meets every week or so.

http://www.facebook.com/groups/511846452162411/

I’ll stop thread jacking after this. Yea I’m a member there, but a lot of people seem to be farther out in VA or farther out from DC in Maryland. At the same time, I have only myself to blame for not being an active member in the group, so I’m probably just not looking hard enough. Back to your regularly scheduled Cobb discussion.