Modify OEM exhaust to sound like PE exhaust

Ripley · 12-11-2013, 11:24 AM

All correct.

1) Open only compartments of straight pipes.

2) Remove the packing (store it, just in case. Remember that it is toxic, do not breathe near it).

3) Remove the perforated pipe in the passenger side and replace it with straight pipe.

4) Remove the canister in the driver's side and replace it with straight pipe.

5) Close and re-weld without putting the packing inside (store the packing

Start the engine

If you want a louder exhaust at low revs, disconnect the cable that is located in the left rear compartment light (Golf tee mod).

Details: my car has catless downpipes and golf tee mod and stainless steel exhaust tips.

I'm happy to help

Josh1a1h · 12-11-2013, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ripley

All correct.

1) Open only compartments of straight pipes.

2) Remove the packing (store it, just in case. Remember that it is toxic, do not breathe near it).

3) Remove the perforated pipe in the passenger side and replace it with straight pipe.

4) Remove the canister in the driver's side and replace it with straight pipe.

5) Close and re-weld without putting the packing inside (store the packing

Start the engine

If you want a louder exhaust at low revs, disconnect the cable that is located in the left rear compartment light (Golf tee mod).

Details: my car has catless downpipes and golf tee mod and stainless steel exhaust tips.

I'm happy to help

THANKS BUD!!!

Have you got anything to say regarding the below... Did you @RIPLEY have to cut the exhausts open from below to weld the straight pipes in?

"To go back to what @GLOWIN mentioned on the previous page about 'welding all the way around the new straight pipes'

Can this be done without having to cut the back boxes open from underneath and finishing the welding? I would prefer just to have all the work done from the top side and leave the bottom looking clean and stock as if nothing had been done...?
"

I have VRSF Catless DPs & 3.8" Cyba tips... but doubt they will make any difference to the noise? ... I just use the JB4 to open and close the exhaust flap anyway which is basically the same thing right.
I drive with it open all the time unless i am doing long journeys and i have people in the car chatting

Glowin · 12-11-2013, 12:02 PM

Once you've put in straight pipes, what's the downside to leaving in the packing? I'd think it might get rid of any unwanted frequencies and the likelihood of drone, but it's not going to reduce noise, since the perf pipes are gone.

Would seem like no downside, plus you don't have to store crap.

Ripley · 12-11-2013, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Glowin

Once you've put in straight pipes, what's the downside to leaving in the packing? I'd think it might get rid of any unwanted frequencies and the likelihood of drone, but it's not going to reduce noise, since the perf pipes are gone.

Would seem like no downside, plus you don't have to store crap.

It should be the same.

I have not put back in the packing material because I did not find reason.
I took ispiration from the Performance Exhaust opened (as the pic below).

http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1383781212

The vibrations are absorbed enough from the y-pipes, imho.

Anyway, try to put the packing back in, the result should be the same.

Unlike the method of Whitefury, I preferred not to open the compartments of the y-pipes because my car already has catless downpipes that make the sound louder.

Once started the engine, I immediately liked the sound and I have not made other changes.

Ripley · 12-11-2013, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Josh1a1h

THANKS BUD!!!

Have you got anything to say regarding the below... Did you @RIPLEY have to cut the exhausts open from below to weld the straight pipes in?

"To go back to what @GLOWIN mentioned on the previous page about 'welding all the way around the new straight pipes'

Can this be done without having to cut the back boxes open from underneath and finishing the welding? I would prefer just to have all the work done from the top side and leave the bottom looking clean and stock as if nothing had been done...?
"

I have VRSF Catless DPs & 3.8" Cyba tips... but doubt they will make any difference to the noise? ... I just use the JB4 to open and close the exhaust flap anyway which is basically the same thing right.
I drive with it open all the time unless i am doing long journeys and i have people in the car chatting

Read this:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ripley

The welder can work by simply opening the bottom or the top of the muffler.

Open both sides (above and below) would be better, but would involve more time working for the welder, so it would be more expensive.

Opening only the bottom or the top of the muffler, the welder can cut the ends of the new straight pipes (like when you peel a banana

), lift the cut end of the pipe, weld in, closing and sealing.

I hope I explained in understandable terms...

We have the same downpipes, then the result should be almost identical.

A question about dps ...

I burned the original gaskets of VRSF dps. Then I tried with the original BMW gaskets ... burned those too. What gaskets use for your dps? What kind of pins and bolts? Thanks

Josh1a1h · 12-11-2013, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ripley

Read this:

We have the same downpipes, then the result should be almost identical.

A question about dps ...

I burned the original gaskets of VRSF dps. Then I tried with the original BMW gaskets ... burned those too. What gaskets use for your dps? What kind of pins and bolts? Thanks

THANKS
I missed that post... That makes sense.

hmmmm re: gaskets... I used the ones which came with my DPs inc the pins and bolts...

BUT
i have recently removed my DPs and put my stock ones back on to have some warranty work done... So i am unsure whether it is a good idea to re use them...

I may ask Tiago at VRSF to send another set.

Glowin · 12-11-2013, 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ripley

Opening only the bottom of the muffler, the welder can cut the ends of the new straight pipes (like when you peel a banana

), lift the cut end of the pipe, weld in, closing and sealing.

I read it like 3 times, but can't visualize how it would work. I take it you don't have any pics of it... I figured worst case, if the muffler guy doesn't know how to do it (which should be a warning for me maybe not to have the job done there! LOL), I'll read out your post to him!

So would welding just the top half of the straight pipe (and leaving its bottom half not welded) probably be a half ass job?

Ripley · 12-11-2013, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Glowin

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ripley

Opening only the bottom of the muffler, the welder can cut the ends of the new straight pipes (like when you peel a banana

), lift the cut end of the pipe, weld in, closing and sealing.

I read it like 3 times, but can't visualize how it would work. I take it you don't have any pics of it... I figured worst case, if the muffler guy doesn't know how to do it (which should be a warning for me maybe not to have the job done there! LOL), I'll read out your post to him!

So would welding just the top half of the straight pipe (and leaving its bottom half not welded) probably be a half ass job?

This sheet of paper is a steel straight pipe.

Open it, weld inside, then close it and weld outside.

Glowin · 12-11-2013, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ripley

This sheet of paper is a steel straight pipe.

Open it, weld inside, then close it and weld outside.

LOL!

Grazie mille! Molto gentile! Got it!

tmo24 · 12-11-2013, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tmo24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ripley

.

Please tell me what tips those are. I've been looking for some like that for when I do this project. Sounds good as well.

Sorry, I'm asking about your exhaust tips. Can you tell me what exhaust tips you used and where you got them?

Ripley · 12-12-2013, 03:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tmo24

Quote:

Originally Posted by tmo24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ripley

.

Please tell me what tips those are. I've been looking for some like that for when I do this project. Sounds good as well.

Sorry, I'm asking about your exhaust tips. Can you tell me what exhaust tips you used and where you got them?

http://www.lampa.it/it/prod-178-971-...io_diritto.asp

Josh1a1h · 12-12-2013, 04:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ripley

This sheet of paper is a steel straight pipe.

Open it, weld inside, then close it and weld outside.

lol

thanks for the pic

Glowin · 12-12-2013, 10:16 AM

Ripley - I forget do you run with the exhaust flap open all the time? (golf tee mod)

Ripley · 12-12-2013, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Glowin

Ripley - I forget do you run with the exhaust flap open all the time? (golf tee mod)

Actually yes, I love it

Glowin · 12-12-2013, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ripley

Actually yes, I love it

And I guess you don't find it too loud having also replaced the canister on the driver's side with a straight pipe?

Since the driver's side is already louder in stock form (which is why the golf tee mod makes the car louder, since gases now go thru the driver's side all the time vs. only at higher RPM's) I'm torn whether to just do the pass side, and leave the driver's as is, with the golf tee mod. I'm worried if I do the driver's too, it might be too loud, with the golf tee mod. I've got catless DP's too.

I suppose if it was too loud, then I could always reverse the golf tee mod at least...

Thoughts? I know you said at first you just did the pass side and it wasn't loud enough for you. Did you try to run it with the golf tee mod and just the pass side modified?

Ripley · 12-12-2013, 02:09 PM

Make a try.

Do the mod just on the passenger side and then take a ride with and without the valve opened.

Then decide

Glowin · 12-12-2013, 03:58 PM

Of course, in a perfect world, that's what I'd do.

I figured once the car is on the lift, I'm sure the muffler shop's incremental cost for doing the second muffler will be a lot less than if I go back a second time and just do the driver's side.

But then again, I guess if I want to play it safe, that's the cost I gotta pay...

Ripley · 12-12-2013, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Glowin

Of course, in a perfect world, that's what I'd do.

I figured once the car is on the lift, I'm sure the muffler shop's incremental cost for doing the second muffler will be a lot less than if I go back a second time and just do the driver's side.

But then again, I guess if I want to play it safe, that's the cost I gotta pay...

Mod the muffler on the passenger side and go for a 5 minute ride. Then back to the welder...if you're not satisfied, mod the driver side too. Easy

Glowin · 12-12-2013, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ripley

Mod the muffler on the passenger side and go for a 5 minute ride. Then back to the welder...if you're not satisfied, mod the driver side too. Easy

Certo! Why didn't I think of that!

To cut holes in the top of the mufflers, do they just unclamp them and lower them, or do they need to cut them off first, then weld them back on?

This pic got me thinking some cutting of the exhaust is needed to access the tops...

Ripley · 12-12-2013, 11:58 PM

You have to cut it, or remove all the exhaust.

Josh1a1h · 12-13-2013, 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ripley

You have to cut it, or remove all the exhaust.

It must be simple enough to unbolt from the secondary cat back right? Or is it one piece... i cannot remember from when i was last under there...

It would make it better from a warranty perspective as they would never know that they were modded if there is no need to drop the exhaust.... No weld marks etc..

osukf09 · 12-13-2013, 10:35 AM

Figured I'd let you guys know I'm getting this work done by a muffler shop in LA right now. Still debating between whitefury and ripley's method, but am leaning towards ripley's. Not touching anything but the mufflers for now.

Will update and let you guys know how it sounds. Full stock exhaust setup with flapper disabled.

12-11-2013, 11:24 AM	#749
Ripley multipass! 15 Rep 80 Posts Drives: E92 335i Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Italy iTrader: (1) Garage List 2008 335i [10.00]	All correct. 1) Open only compartments of straight pipes. 2) Remove the packing (store it, just in case. Remember that it is toxic, do not breathe near it). 3) Remove the perforated pipe in the passenger side and replace it with straight pipe. 4) Remove the canister in the driver's side and replace it with straight pipe. 5) Close and re-weld without putting the packing inside (store the packing Start the engine If you want a louder exhaust at low revs, disconnect the cable that is located in the left rear compartment light (Golf tee mod). Details: my car has catless downpipes and golf tee mod and stainless steel exhaust tips. I'm happy to help __________________ Black Sapphire E92 335i AT: VTT GC 2.0 - VTT inlets/outlet - VRSF 7'' FMIC - VRSF 3'' d p s - JB4 G5 w/ FSB - AEM meth - Fuel-It stage 2 LPFP - BMS DCI - Phoenix Racing CP - TIAL BOV - NGK 5992 - KW V3 - Dinan camber plates - Brembo 8 pot - Pagid RST3 - Mishimoto 25 row oil cooler - Quaife LSD - M3 rear bar - xHP stage 3
	Appreciate 1 Quote

12-11-2013, 12:02 PM	#751
Glowin Captain 73 Rep 978 Posts Drives: X3 35 & 335i now - M2/M4 next? Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Seattle iTrader: (0)	Once you've put in straight pipes, what's the downside to leaving in the packing? I'd think it might get rid of any unwanted frequencies and the likelihood of drone, but it's not going to reduce noise, since the perf pipes are gone. Would seem like no downside, plus you don't have to store crap.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

12-12-2013, 10:16 AM	#761
Glowin Captain 73 Rep 978 Posts Drives: X3 35 & 335i now - M2/M4 next? Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Seattle iTrader: (0)	Ripley - I forget do you run with the exhaust flap open all the time? (golf tee mod) __________________ 08 335 MT (RWD) \| Cobb OTS E30 maps \| AMS intercooler \| AR DP's \| K&N filter \| KW V2's \| M3 front control arms \| Stoptech slotted rotors & Street Performance pads \| Stoptech SS brake lines w/STR 600 fluid \| PE mod X3 35 with a few little mods
	Appreciate 0 Quote

12-12-2013, 02:09 PM	#764
Ripley multipass! 15 Rep 80 Posts Drives: E92 335i Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Italy iTrader: (1) Garage List 2008 335i [10.00]	Make a try. Do the mod just on the passenger side and then take a ride with and without the valve opened. Then decide
	Appreciate 0 Quote

12-12-2013, 03:58 PM	#765
Glowin Captain 73 Rep 978 Posts Drives: X3 35 & 335i now - M2/M4 next? Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Seattle iTrader: (0)	Of course, in a perfect world, that's what I'd do. I figured once the car is on the lift, I'm sure the muffler shop's incremental cost for doing the second muffler will be a lot less than if I go back a second time and just do the driver's side. But then again, I guess if I want to play it safe, that's the cost I gotta pay...
	Appreciate 0 Quote

12-12-2013, 11:58 PM	#768
Ripley multipass! 15 Rep 80 Posts Drives: E92 335i Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Italy iTrader: (1) Garage List 2008 335i [10.00]	You have to cut it, or remove all the exhaust. __________________ Black Sapphire E92 335i AT: VTT GC 2.0 - VTT inlets/outlet - VRSF 7'' FMIC - VRSF 3'' d p s - JB4 G5 w/ FSB - AEM meth - Fuel-It stage 2 LPFP - BMS DCI - Phoenix Racing CP - TIAL BOV - NGK 5992 - KW V3 - Dinan camber plates - Brembo 8 pot - Pagid RST3 - Mishimoto 25 row oil cooler - Quaife LSD - M3 rear bar - xHP stage 3
	Appreciate 0 Quote

12-13-2013, 10:35 AM	#770
osukf09 First Lieutenant 64 Rep 342 Posts Drives: 2011 e92 M3 ZCP Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: San Francisco, CA iTrader: (0)	Figured I'd let you guys know I'm getting this work done by a muffler shop in LA right now. Still debating between whitefury and ripley's method, but am leaning towards ripley's. Not touching anything but the mufflers for now. Will update and let you guys know how it sounds. Full stock exhaust setup with flapper disabled.
	Appreciate 0 Quote