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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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DIY: Replacing DSC Hydro Unit E90, E92
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11-24-2015, 02:55 PM | #67 | |
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No, in all seriousness, hope you get your issue figured out. |
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11-24-2015, 06:46 PM | #68 | |
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Greg |
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11-24-2015, 10:37 PM | #69 | |
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1. What exactly mean your software show no connection ? there is no device "02" ? (as I remember DSC is 02). I has to replace DSC when this happen. 2. If this is correct what about can bus diagnostics ? show everything is correct ? if answer is positive on both question then you have problem with electronic part. You can change this without changing hydraulics, just find used DSC exactly same model and change electronics. In this case your brake locking problem is probably some fail safe feature. Just for a case ... check connector and wiring on DSC, this is robust connector and should not be the problem but ... won't hurt to check Last edited by allotherareused; 11-24-2015 at 10:44 PM.. |
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12-11-2015, 06:50 PM | #70 |
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Just went through all these post. Lot of good information. I have a 2009 335i.
I have the same trifecta lights (yellowbrake, DSC, ABS) and the SES light on. Been on since March. Taking me a while to look at it. I don't have any software to pull the codes. I tried to install the right software once, but couldn't figure it out. Even bought a cable. Here are my symptoms: Speedometer, tripometer, tachomoeter all work. The only thing that doesn't work is my cruise control. Something else that is wierd is when I am making a turn (especially right turn) onto a street. I'll be pressing the brake pedal while in the turn to slow down (doing about 10mpg) and I will feel the brake pedal vibrate and I will hear a farting sounds. I think the farting sound is coming from the abs module in front of me. Using the information from the E46 forums I figured the passenger rear wheel sensor was out since the cruise control was broken. I swapped it with the driver rear wheel sensor and the cruise control is still broke and everything else (speedometer, tachometer, odometer) still works. Do i have the dreaded abs module issue? Do I need to replace the whole ABS module or just fix the motor part like the youtube video? Also has anyone noticed this vibrating break pedal/ farting noise when you make slow turns. I hope someone can help. My car only has 53k miles. So sad! |
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12-11-2015, 11:22 PM | #71 | |
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Also, mine was the abs PUMP that was the issue. Last edited by Winners08E90; 12-11-2015 at 11:28 PM.. |
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12-12-2015, 08:58 AM | #72 | |
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Thanks for taking the time to chime in. It's encouraging to see someone else having the exact same symptoms. You mentioned no coding so they only replaced your pump and didn't rebuild your actual ABS module? IS that right? Also if that's true, does that mean you could have taken apart your motor and fixed it yourself according to the youtube video: [u2b] [/u2b] Also can anyone tell me how they are able to test their cars. I bought a special bmw cable a while back but never could get the software to work on my computer. |
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12-13-2015, 04:13 PM | #73 |
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I just wanted to update my program in case anyone is going down the same road as me. I bought the cable and got the require INPA/EDIABAS software so I could diagnose my car. This is the code I pulled:
5DA6 I don't know what it means yet so I am googling it. For anyone who cares, there ya go! lol |
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12-17-2015, 05:44 PM | #74 |
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Can't be sure but 5DA6 would be hydraulic part, you may need complete DSC DTC service
In order to avoid coding, try to buy working one same model and to replace hydraulic part only. As per cable/software, change forum/topic. Most of cables works, but you probably need setup parameters, scripts, etc ... |
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12-26-2015, 12:29 PM | #75 |
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Wanted to update my situation: I ordered a used DSC/ABS unit off Ebay, got lucky and found a really nice one for low $$. I swapped my old module onto the new valve body/pump motor, installed, all is well. The test of course in my situation, is if full=pressure braking caused the front calipers to lock up, as they were doing with my original unit. Good news, the problem is solved. Somebody told me the problem was the ABS valve body had a stuck valve, probably due to old unchanged brake fluid. He was right! I can confirm that I did a brake fluid change last year on this car myself, even though I had a BMW service shop receipt saying it was done in 2011. They lied. When I changed brake fluid, the old stuff was BLACK and gross. Obviously very old, possibly the original fluid from 2008. Another reason why I don't trust stealerships and try to do most work myself. I bought the car used and pulled all service records possible from my local dealer.
My final challenge is to bleed the brakes now, I've got a long pedal now. I don't have INPA and I'd like to avoid going to a shop to do this. Can anybody recommend a way to get the air out of the new ABS valve body? I thought I read somewhere that I can take the car to a gravel road and simply activate ABS a few times to cycle all the air out of the ABS unit and down to the calipers where I can then bleed. Is this a valid approach? Thanks in advance! Greg Houston TX |
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01-19-2016, 08:53 AM | #76 |
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Hi, I had the DSC hydrolic pump error so I followed these instructions are replaced my pump. That error went away but now I'm getting a "DSC Brake pressure sensor error", which i did not see before.
Do you think this error came up because I didn't install something correctly? Or maybe I didn't bleed the abs system properly? or maybe I dislodged or damaged something when moving the brake lines around when trying to remove and reinstall the module? Any insight would be great, thanks for your help in advance! |
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02-10-2016, 10:49 PM | #77 |
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Hi all if anyone has done a reinstall of theirs after having it shipped to module masters please chime in. I just got mine back and when i removed it everything went smoothly. now I'm in the middle of the reinstall and NONE of the lines are going back in correctly. Below are pictures of all the line screwed in as far as i can get them and not coming remotely flush. different depths on all of then and i don't want to fore it down any tighter as they are all already pretty far as tight as they can go. and help would be greatly appreciated. idk what i could be missing here???
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02-10-2016, 11:29 PM | #78 |
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My suggestion: what worked best for me was to start all the lines, or at least the problematic ones while the module was not yet securely fastened in the car. This enabled the threaded barrels to more easily thread into the valve body. I had a really tough time with mine until I loosened the module and angled it to allow easier threading. Please make sure you're installing the lines in the right ports and don't cross/thread or strip them. That would suck big time.
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02-11-2016, 12:14 AM | #79 |
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thats the part that scares me, i got the lines a decent way in but they ALL stop a decent amount away from being fully in and i don't want to wrench force it the rest of the way and chance the threading getting stripped
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02-11-2016, 12:10 PM | #80 | |
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Try to get that done..
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02-19-2016, 01:21 AM | #82 |
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For those of you that ended up doing the module masters way, how did you guys bleed the brakes? It's the procedure going to be any different since there's probably air in the system from the removal process? I just changed my fluid about 6 months ago and am debating whether I should do a full flush or do the reverse pressure pump from the bleeder valve to push the air up out the master cylinder? Also if I do the normal flush, will it be able to go through the whole abs system and push out all the air through the bleeder valves at the bottom? And do I need a bad tool because I read somewhere there's a option to force the car to run fluid through the abs pump module? I know tons of questions so thanks to whoever can help me out!
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02-23-2016, 08:37 AM | #83 |
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My threads are also sticking out like blknight's above. I didnt realize the threading should be all the way in. Maybe that's why im having the brake pressure sensor error?
Edit: I just looked at some pictures online and i don't think the threads need to go all the way in. Last edited by dveluru; 02-23-2016 at 08:43 AM.. |
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02-23-2016, 08:45 AM | #84 |
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How do I get recalibration? can the dealer do this? What specifically do I ask for? My dealers here doesn't even hook up the car to the computer and cycle the abs when bleeding the brakes. They also said they couldn't bleed the clutch
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02-23-2016, 09:13 AM | #85 | |
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It will read the error codes for recalibration (I think it is 5D00 and 5D01) and give you a test plan. Click on the test plan, and it will automatically recalibrate your DSC module and sensors.. No need for trip to the dealer..
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02-23-2016, 10:02 PM | #86 |
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my car is an E88 with 22K miles it is an o8 128i. The dealer is charging me 4K to fix the trifecta lights. I think because of my location I should try to clean the brushes first.
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02-24-2016, 04:42 AM | #87 |
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Get it reconditioned.. 4K is ridiculous..
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02-24-2016, 06:49 PM | #88 |
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I know I already am in communication with Modulemasters, thanks
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