[Alpina_B3_Lux]

Originally Posted by JamesM3M5

Any BMW parts dealer should be able to get you the tool, unless they put some sort of restriction on it in Europe. I wouldn't think so.

I wouldn't think so either. Just shot my primary source of BMW parts an e-mail to see whether they can sell it to me.

Alpina_B3_Lux

[Transport3r]

I'm thinking about giving this a whirl:

http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-o.../soda_blaster/

can't go wrong for that price lol!

[TonyDangH]

Awesome results. I am planning to do this weekend with my friend's car.

[kenneth]

can someone explain in simple terms how to set the pair of intake valves of each cylinder to be in the closed position, to this cleaning ?

Thanks

[Beemw335]

Originally Posted by kenneth

can someone explain in simple terms how to set the pair of intake valves of each cylinder to be in the closed position, to this cleaning ?

Thanks

Theres a diy on this, I remember the guy saying that what he did was put the car in first gear, release the e brake and rock the car back and forth so that you rotate the engine.

[jephs422]

This seems like a great next project for me. Going to to start looking at doing this.

[Alpina_B3_Lux]

Originally Posted by Alpina_B3_Lux

I wouldn't think so either. Just shot my primary source of BMW parts an e-mail to see whether they can sell it to me.

Alpina_B3_Lux

Update for European car owners:

The dealer I contacted by e-mail never replied to me, but I did find another source that is selling BMW parts: On http://www.KFZteile-profis.de you just have to look for the part number 81292208034 (it is called "Strahlmittelgerät" in German) which is listed at a price of 566 EUR. Deliveries to any European country available.

Of course you'll also need a compressor in addition to the BMW system, as well as the walnut shell material (0.45 - 0.80 mm). Both should be available in any DIY shop.

I'll most likely order this in the next few weeks and do the cleaning during the month of March.

Alpina_B3_Lux

[Will335i]

Originally Posted by Eracer76

Sorry guys, I don't have a picture of my "plate", and being that it was only a 1/2" thick piece MDF wood, it was pretty beat up from using it, and drilling on it to fit my multiple attempts at different gun tips, so I just threw it in the trash when I was done. lol

So all it was, was just a 1/2" thick piece of MDF wood, cut slightly bigger then the port opening, with two holes drilled into it, one for the gun, and one for a rubber hose that I stuck into the vacuum hose. Then when one valve looked good, I flipped it over and did the other valve.




That BMW adaptor would be nice to have, but then I'd probably have to come up with yet another "rigged tip" for my gun to fit into the hole. It looks like it only fits into the port about 1/4", which isnt a big deal because its usually not very dirty that close to the opening... But being that the gun tip hole is in the center, you would almost need a little bit longer gun tip to reach over to the valve... were as with my home made plate, I just flipped it over to do each valve.

Where in IL are you at? I am guessing Chicago. If you are close to the St. Louis area you think I could talk you into cleaning mine?

[Eracer76]

Originally Posted by Will335i

Where in IL are you at? I am guessing Chicago. If you are close to the St. Louis area you think I could talk you into cleaning mine?

Yeah I would do it, but I'm in Yorkville IL, so it's not really worth it for you drive this far.

[Will335i]

Yeah thats a bit of a drive. Too bad

[Alpina_B3_Lux]

Originally Posted by JamesM3M5

Yeah, sorry guys, there is a whole pressurized hopper and gun system that goes with the BMW tool. It's about $800 from the dealer, which does include Mini and N54 adapters. The $50 adapter can help, or it sounds easier to make the MDF/plywood rig that the OP did to save money. If you're only doing it once every 20-30k miles, it doesn't make sense to go to a lot of trouble to make the BMW part work unless your media gun has different tips you can screw on.

I just ordered the BMW blaster (part no. 81292208034), but my source said that BMW does not produce them anymore and he had a hard time getting his hand on one, even by looking in the whole of Europe. It seems I got the last one available anywhere.

Seems a bit bizarre to me that BMW would stop making these - how else do they want to clean the intake valves?

Alpina_B3_Lux

[Laid Black 335i]

Originally Posted by kenneth

can someone explain in simple terms how to set the pair of intake valves of each cylinder to be in the closed position, to this cleaning ?

Thanks

Originally Posted by Beemw335

Theres a diy on this, I remember the guy saying that what he did was put the car in first gear, release the e brake and rock the car back and forth so that you rotate the engine.

Eracer76, can you confirm this? How did you put the intake valves in the closed position?

Also, kinda dumb question, but I'm sure others that want to do this may ask this as well. Before opening up the engine and it's components, do you have to disconnect the battery?

[JamesM3M5]

Originally Posted by Alpina_B3_Lux

I just ordered the BMW blaster (part no. 81292208034), but my source said that BMW does not produce them anymore and he had a hard time getting his hand on one, even by looking in the whole of Europe. It seems I got the last one available anywhere.

Seems a bit bizarre to me that BMW would stop making these - how else do they want to clean the intake valves?

Alpina_B3_Lux

That happens with BMW tools of all kinds. They make a run of tools, sell them until they're gone, and then wait to make another run until demand is high enough. Kind of a pain in the butt if you ask me.

[Eracer76]

Originally Posted by Laid Black 335i

Eracer76, can you confirm this? How did you put the intake valves in the closed position?

Also, kinda dumb question, but I'm sure others that want to do this may ask this as well. Before opening up the engine and it's components, do you have to disconnect the battery?

I did a very simple method for bumping the engine over that is perfectly safe if you know anything about electronics/starters/mechanics of the engine. Some will say otherwise though

I posted up on page 3 of how I did it... but here it is again... You simply remove the one wire plug off the starter solenoid to expose the spade, then just take a scrap piece of wire and tap that spade to the big 12 volt power wire directly above it, and the engine will bump over. And don't worry, there won't be huge sparks flying like some may think, it is low current and all your doing is triggering the solenoid which is what handles the high current. Its the same way the car starts everyday, by sending a low current 12v tigger via that wire you just unplugged.
When you do it, just bump it over a little at a time until you see when the valves are open or closed by looking into the ports. Its pretty simple!
Just us a little caution when doing it, like making sure all your ports are free from any liquids or debris like walnut shells... Or they'll end up in the engine.

Oh, and if you have a 6 speed, make sure its in neutral or the car will jump forward!

[JamesM3M5]

You'll need about a 16-12ga wire to do it effectively (up to 20A), but yeah, there's nothing wrong with bumping the engine over using the starter. And of course make sure the ignition is OFF. No sense in freaking the ECU/CAS out.

But I still prefer to turn the engine over with a ratchet and 22mm socket. That always has the possibility of forgetting to take the ratchet off the crank when you're done and starting the engine. OOPS.

[bimmertt]

Originally Posted by Eracer76

I did a very simple method for bumping the engine over that is perfectly safe if you know anything about electronics/starters/mechanics of the engine. Some will say otherwise though

I posted up on page 3 of how I did it... but here it is again... You simply remove the one wire plug off the starter solenoid to expose the spade, then just take a scrap piece of wire and tap that spade to the big 12 volt power wire directly above it, and the engine will bump over. And don't worry, there won't be huge sparks flying like some may think, it is low current and all your doing is triggering the solenoid which is what handles the high current. Its the same way the car starts everyday, by sending a low current 12v tigger via that wire you just unplugged.
When you do it, just bump it over a little at a time until you see when the valves are open or closed by looking into the ports. Its pretty simple!
Just us a little caution when doing it, like making sure all your ports are free from any liquids or debris like walnut shells... Or they'll end up in the engine.

Oh, and if you have a 6 speed, make sure its in neutral or the car will jump forward!

Might be a silly question but you can't get shocked by doing this right?

[son_of_siggy]

You can get shocked, but it's going to be only 12v and fairly low amperage, so it won't kill you . Maybe don't do it if you have a pacemaker?

[GoodtoGo]

Originally Posted by Eracer76

Yeah I would do it, but I'm in Yorkville IL, so it's not really worth it for you drive this far.

How much would you charge? The work looks good.

[Eracer76]

Originally Posted by bimmertt

Might be a silly question but you can't get shocked by doing this right?

Nope, you won't get shocked. Unless of course your hands are dripping wet and you touch ground and 12v at the same time, then you might feel something...
But doing this method, you should be dry and you shouldn't be touching anything to ground anyway.

But, even if you are dry and you accidentally touch 12v and ground at the same time with your hands, you still won't get shocked. Its kind of like putting your thumb across the top of a 9v battery, you won't get shocked, but if you put your wet tongue across it, thats a different story!


And if your really paranoid about the whole thing, you could always buy one of these... which are designed to do the same thing...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ANM-CP7853/





.

[Eracer76]

Originally Posted by GoodtoGo

How much would you charge? The work looks good.

Hmm, I'm not really sure... maybe $300?? Since I've heard the dealers charge anywhere from $600 to $1200... and it might take me most of the day to do it right. Mine took almost 10 hours, but much of that time was spent trying to figure out the right sandblaster and vacuum setup to be effective.

[Laid Black 335i]

Originally Posted by Eracer76

Hmm, I'm not really sure... maybe $300?? Since I've heard the dealers charge anywhere from $600 to $1200... and it might take me most of the day to do it right. Mine took almost 10 hours, but much of that time was spent trying to figure out the right sandblaster and vacuum setup to be effective.

Thanks Eracer, any recommendations on a decent air compressor that will work with the portable sand blaster? This is something I hope to tackle myself soon considering I am at 59,300 miles right now. Once it hits 60k, I plan on doing it.

[QUiKSR20]

Wow huge improvement, I am new to E90s and 335is in general but not new to car or especially turbo cars... I have been reading alot about the valve cleanings since I will most likely be picking up a 335i in the next 2 months..

Damn what causes these to get so gunked up so fast?? Ive never seen such a thing in any turbo or na motor Ive ever worked one ( VR6 / 2JZ / SR20 / B18 etc etc ) Just seems like an awfully lot of crud for a basically new car that's a few years old.