[Dark9T]

Originally Posted by RevC

just had the dealer do this for me...surpringly they did not charge me a penny. the car is night and day different, so much smoother, linear, and most def pulls harder. good work op!

How you get it for free?

[Dark9T]

Originally Posted by Jeff@topgearsolutions

Nice! I wonder how bad mine are considering I've had a OCC since about 1K miles and running methanol since about 5K miles.

Meth help getting the carbon build up right?

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Alpina when you get this if you could post detailed pics of the kit that would be great. It's possible there are universal substitutions out there for most of the equipment.

Great thread btw guys, love to see DIY'ers out there.

Rob

Originally Posted by Alpina_B3_Lux

I just ordered the BMW blaster (part no. 81292208034), but my source said that BMW does not produce them anymore and he had a hard time getting his hand on one, even by looking in the whole of Europe. It seems I got the last one available anywhere.

Seems a bit bizarre to me that BMW would stop making these - how else do they want to clean the intake valves?

Alpina_B3_Lux

[Alpina_B3_Lux]

Originally Posted by RobBeck

Alpina when you get this if you could post detailed pics of the kit that would be great. It's possible there are universal substitutions out there for most of the equipment.

Great thread btw guys, love to see DIY'ers out there.

Rob

Will do, I'm still waiting for it to be delivered.

Alpina_B3_Lux

[interpol]

Originally Posted by RobBeck

Alpina when you get this if you could post detailed pics of the kit that would be great. It's possible there are universal substitutions out there for most of the equipment.

Great thread btw guys, love to see DIY'ers out there.

Rob

Based on the BMW Group Carbon Blaster Operating Manual posted earlier (http://www.minitechinfo.com/tsb/atta...ing_Manual.pdf), the manufacturer of this kit is a German company named WEZAG.

One of the last pages of the Operating Manual has this information:

"Replacement Parts, Warranty Information and Tool Overview:

All requests for warranty and service must be directed to:
WEZAG TOOLS, INC
Jared Essenpreis or Peter Herdeg
1490 W. Bernard Drive Suite B
Addison, IL 60101
630-953-8780 office"

It might be worthwhile for people interested in purchasing this kit to contact WEZAG's US distributor directly.

[BOosted 335i]

Originally Posted by RevC

just had the dealer do this for me...surpringly they did not charge me a penny. the car is night and day different, so much smoother, linear, and most def pulls harder. good work op!

what did you say to the dealer to get this under warranty?

[BOosted 335i]

And how many miles do you have on car to get valves cleaned at?

[themyst]

Originally Posted by BOosted 335i

And how many miles do you have on car to get valves cleaned at?

I'd say 50-60k miles.

[BOosted 335i]

Originally Posted by themyst

I'd say 50-60k miles.

thx

[Rob@RBTurbo]

No worries now. The link provided has pretty clear illustrations. How much was the kit though?

Originally Posted by Alpina_B3_Lux

Will do, I'm still waiting for it to be delivered.

Alpina_B3_Lux

interpol, thanks for the info. I am going to begin piecing together and sampling items to make a kit that can accomplish the same job without buying the whole BMW kit. It will be made available for those DIY'ers out there who ALREADY have an air compressor and vacuum (shop vac) but need rest of the piece parts to make this an easy process.

Originally Posted by interpol

Based on the BMW Group Carbon Blaster Operating Manual posted earlier (http://www.minitechinfo.com/tsb/atta...ing_Manual.pdf), the manufacturer of this kit is a German company named WEZAG.

One of the last pages of the Operating Manual has this information:

"Replacement Parts, Warranty Information and Tool Overview:

All requests for warranty and service must be directed to:
WEZAG TOOLS, INC
Jared Essenpreis or Peter Herdeg
1490 W. Bernard Drive Suite B
Addison, IL 60101
630-953-8780 office"

It might be worthwhile for people interested in purchasing this kit to contact WEZAG's US distributor directly.

[Rob@RBTurbo]

You could stick your tongue across the terminals and not get shocked. lol. But yes, the remote starter is a more convenient way to do it and they are usually cheap at around $10-15. The only problem is its a little harder to get the starter to stop cranking so you have to go easy on the trigger in order to catch a top dead center or valve seated situation as you can skip right past it with ease and take several tries before getting it right. It is more precise to crank the engine over with a socket at the crankshaft. Both methods have their pros and cons, the manual method being a little more effort exerted and the electric method having to be a smooth trigger operator to get to a point where both valves are closed (at TDC or "on the heal of the camshaft")

Originally Posted by Eracer76

Nope, you won't get shocked. Unless of course your hands are dripping wet and you touch ground and 12v at the same time, then you might feel something...
But doing this method, you should be dry and you shouldn't be touching anything to ground anyway.

But, even if you are dry and you accidentally touch 12v and ground at the same time with your hands, you still won't get shocked. Its kind of like putting your thumb across the top of a 9v battery, you won't get shocked, but if you put your wet tongue across it, thats a different story!


And if your really paranoid about the whole thing, you could always buy one of these... which are designed to do the same thing...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ANM-CP7853/





.

[Rob@RBTurbo]

James,

Per the above link the part number you indicate says is for "future use". I guess that means they where preparing this process for the N54 before it's time? Just want to confirm that 81 29 2 208 037 is in fact for the N54, and that the 81 29 2 208 038 is for the Mini N14.

Also there are 2 wands. One is straight, the other at a 90*. Based on the above it appears the straight wand is the one for "future use" which leads me to believe for the N54. When you perform the cleanings, which wand do you use or prefer on the N54? Or do both have their benefits?

Thanks,
Rob

Originally Posted by JamesM3M5

If you don't feel like making your own adapter, BMW part number 81 29 2 208 037 is the N54 vacuum/blaster attachment, about $50. Has a port to stick your blaster wand into it and a stepped-down vacuum hose outlet.

[muzzammil15]

Originally Posted by QUiKSR20

Wow huge improvement, I am new to E90s and 335is in general but not new to car or especially turbo cars... I have been reading alot about the valve cleanings since I will most likely be picking up a 335i in the next 2 months..

Damn what causes these to get so gunked up so fast?? Ive never seen such a thing in any turbo or na motor Ive ever worked one ( VR6 / 2JZ / SR20 / B18 etc etc ) Just seems like an awfully lot of crud for a basically new car that's a few years old.

Those motors that you mentioned are port injected. The 335i motors are direct injected, where the fuel injector sits further in the head. Port injected the fuel injectors sit at the end of the intake-manifold runner. The fuel does run over the valves, thus keeping them clean. With these 335i motors the fuel injector sits further down so the fuel does not touch the back side of the valves, which allows for the carbon and oil vapors to build up over time. I myself have built 3 240's and know what you are talking about. I was very surprised myself after I purchased my 335i and read about this issue.

[QUiKSR20]

Originally Posted by muzzammil15

Those motors that you mentioned are port injected. The 335i motors are direct injected, where the fuel injector sits further in the head. Port injected the fuel injectors sit at the end of the intake-manifold runner. The fuel does run over the valves, thus keeping them clean. With these 335i motors the fuel injector sits further down so the fuel does not touch the back side of the valves, which allows for the carbon and oil vapors to build up over time. I myself have built 3 240's and know what you are talking about. I was very surprised myself after I purchased my 335i and read about this issue.

Good to know, Im looking into a 335i but dont have much esp with them, Now SR20DET's is a diff story.

I hear this is from the oil vapors being plumbed back in, Could you just run the vapor/hoses to a catch can and eliminate the issue?

Havent read up a ton on DI but makes sense..

[drjekl]

Originally Posted by Rob@RBTurbo

interpol, thanks for the info. I am going to begin piecing together and sampling items to make a kit that can accomplish the same job without buying the whole BMW kit. It will be made available for those DIY'ers out there who ALREADY have an air compressor and vacuum (shop vac) but need rest of the piece parts to make this an easy process.

did a RB Turbo media blaster kit ever eventuate?

[Rob@RBTurbo]

It did. But I dropped the ball on finalizing it and offering for sale. There were a couple loose ends, perhaps I'll finalize shortly.

Originally Posted by drjekl

did a RB Turbo media blaster kit ever eventuate?

[dwells]

Unfortunately I don't know a ton about motors or their workings, so I may be off-base here, so correct me where I'm wrong on how to do this procedure.

So each cylinder has two little valves in it that can be either opened or closed, and you can tell just my looking. If the valves are open, you can't blast the cylinder, as walnut powder and scraped-off carbon will wind up inside the inner workings of the engine and kill it.

To actually do the job, you build up some sort of adapter so the blaster will only blow walnut shells into a single cylinder and not all around your engine bay and then blast for a bit. Then take a shop vac with a thin attachment and vacuum up all the shell out of the cylinder, repeat blast/vacuum process until the cylinder is clean and free of all carbon or shell residue?

Then repeat for each closed cylinder. For the open ones, you have to either rig up some plug to a 12v source or start the car up or something.

Does it sound like I'm on the right path here? I've never done much mechanical work - changed my engine coolant on my Saab 9-5 before I got this car, and then when my friend did my brakes for me the other weekend, I helped tighten/untighten some bolts here and there and place the new rotors on the hubs, reinstall the caliper bracket thing, etc. That's it for my car working experience. Would I be getting in over my head here?

Thanks!

[Rotorocious]

Originally Posted by dwells

Unfortunately I don't know a ton about motors or their workings, so I may be off-base here, so correct me where I'm wrong on how to do this procedure.

So each cylinder has two little valves in it that can be either opened or closed, and you can tell just my looking. If the valves are open, you can't blast the cylinder, as walnut powder and scraped-off carbon will wind up inside the inner workings of the engine and kill it.

To actually do the job, you build up some sort of adapter so the blaster will only blow walnut shells into a single cylinder and not all around your engine bay and then blast for a bit. Then take a shop vac with a thin attachment and vacuum up all the shell out of the cylinder, repeat blast/vacuum process until the cylinder is clean and free of all carbon or shell residue?

Then repeat for each closed cylinder. For the open ones, you have to either rig up some plug to a 12v source or start the car up or something.

Does it sound like I'm on the right path here? I've never done much mechanical work - changed my engine coolant on my Saab 9-5 before I got this car, and then when my friend did my brakes for me the other weekend, I helped tighten/untighten some bolts here and there and place the new rotors on the hubs, reinstall the caliper bracket thing, etc. That's it for my car working experience. Would I be getting in over my head here?

Thanks!

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=520922

this should get you close. Just add in your blaster instead of chemical

[dwells]

Originally Posted by Rotorocious

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=520922

this should get you close. Just add in your blaster instead of chemical

Intimidating, but possibly doable. Did my description of the blaster process and the valves seem right?

[Chefcg1]

Originally Posted by Rob@RBTurbo

It did. But I dropped the ball on finalizing it and offering for sale. There were a couple loose ends, perhaps I'll finalize shortly.

Please do. I'm for sure up to purchase one.

[aflatau]

I need this.

[drjekl]

Guys for those of you who went DIY what type of compressor did you use?

Speaking to a blasting media specialist today he reccomended going with a 14 cfm compressor for walnut shell blasting (12 cfm at minimum) which are almost $900 alone, then the blast kit with nozzle is $175, and $100 for a vac...

The prices start to escalate quite quickly when you have to spend that much on a compressor... I was hoping to buy one of those cheap 2HP compressors for $200?

Can you do the blasting at short intervals (10 seconds stop, then wait 10 seconds) with a cheap compressor? And can you just use a domestic vacuum cleaner to suck the shells out?