[EB9512]

So I have had no real issues with my stock 335i sedan with sport option. I have 2,000 miles left on Warranty and then my CPO begins. I have just ordered the BMS OCC, CAI, LUX v5.2 AE and COBB AP. I do have the start of a wastegate noise and my dealer has me scheduled for several days in Nov to install winter tires and deal with the rattle. I just had spark plugs and oil change last week. I am scheduled at VS in Illinois the week after I should get my car back in November for Walnut Blasting ( great price special there ) and I am having them do my installs as I am useless under a hood. So my original plan was to just leave everything stock and the COBB in the box until after dealer visit and cleaning/installs at VS.

After reading Jeff's post about a tune showing what areas might be weak in our cars, I am wondering if I should leave my bolt on mods as planned for later....but go ahead and flash with the COBB to just the 93 octane, stock everything else tune. My reasoning is that if I start "showing a weakness" somewhere, I can get that dealt with at the dealer under my warranty or CPO when they do my wastegate/turbos and not after I pay to add my mods only to have to remove them for CPO work. I would simply uninstall the COBB before my November appointment and get them to address the issues. Is this a sound plan? Thanks

[EB9512]

Bump for myself......so selfish

[EB9512]

Bump cause I know everyone's main concern is helping me.....

[EB9512]

Once again...If I post this as a new thread I know I will get a response but I am stubborn.

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by EBangtson

So I have had no real issues with my stock 335i sedan with sport option. I have 2,000 miles left on Warranty and then my CPO begins. I have just ordered the BMS OCC, CAI, LUX v5.2 AE and COBB AP. I do have the start of a wastegate noise and my dealer has me scheduled for several days in Nov to install winter tires and deal with the rattle. I just had spark plugs and oil change last week. I am scheduled at VS in Illinois the week after I should get my car back in November for Walnut Blasting ( great price special there ) and I am having them do my installs as I am useless under a hood. So my original plan was to just leave everything stock and the COBB in the box until after dealer visit and cleaning/installs at VS.

After reading Jeff's post about a tune showing what areas might be weak in our cars, I am wondering if I should leave my bolt on mods as planned for later....but go ahead and flash with the COBB to just the 93 octane, stock everything else tune. My reasoning is that if I start "showing a weakness" somewhere, I can get that dealt with at the dealer under my warranty or CPO when they do my wastegate/turbos and not after I pay to add my mods only to have to remove them for CPO work. I would simply uninstall the COBB before my November appointment and get them to address the issues. Is this a sound plan? Thanks

Depending on the relationship with your SA, can really determine which mods you should leave on.

the best answer, don't do any. The COBB you will be fine because you can uninstall completely before going in for CPO work and or warranty work.. I strongly recommend waiting till after they resolved any WG or Turbo work.

then add some modes. DCI or a drop in you will be fine. COBB S1 Aggressive I would highly recommend at least a drop in filter and or your CAI.

as for everything else sounds like you are on the right track. I really don't think you will have any issues with misfires, especially after, new SP & Walnut Blasting. But it appears one of my coils are bad on just 52k, so you really can't rule that out.

If you are prone to high outside air temps, I would recommend a FMIC as one of your first mods. You will maintain consistent low Charge Air Temps (90 - 120)(depending on outside air temps and FMIC core size) thus, you will be less prone to pull timing. But then again winter is coming around. EDIT and you are in Michigan.

Enjoy your COBB AP Tune, I am sure you will love it!

[kahoho1]

I have a 335 with Cobb stage 2+ aggressive. I sometimes have cyl 2 misfire issue at WOT so I suspect its the cyl 2 faulty ignition coil. Im thinking if I should just replace the faulty coil or replacing all the coils at once as I heard once a coil fails, the other coils will fail soon. I have 68k miiles on my car and replaced spark plugs once at 43k and done walnut blasting at 67k. How long do the ignition coils last on a 335? Do you guys recommend me to replace just the faulty coil and wait until the others fail?

[Iamstig335]

Originally Posted by kahoho1

I have a 335 with Cobb stage 2+ aggressive. I sometimes have cyl 2 misfire issue at WOT so I suspect its the cyl 2 faulty ignition coil. Im thinking if I should just replace the faulty coil or replacing all the coils at once as I heard once a coil fails, the other coils will fail soon. I have 68k miiles on my car and replaced spark plugs once at 43k and done walnut blasting at 67k. How long do the ignition coils last on a 335? Do you guys recommend me to replace just the faulty coil and wait until the others fail?

I had one fail at 51k, just replaced that one and not 500 miles later another one failed so I replaced the remaining 5 and haven't had any issue in 5k miles.

[kahoho1]

does anyone have the similar experience and would like to share it?

[JETBLK335i]

Hi all. hope this is the right thread, but can anyone tell me if this chart looks ok?

im running proceed REV 2.5 and DCI.

im going to replace the spark plugs as a starting point, but i am throwing the following codes

CD87, 29CD, 29CF, 29CC, CDA7

[FitzMLife]

You can add the low pressure fuel sensor to the list of misfire causers.

[Jeohn]

29CD Misfirings, cylinder 1
29CF Misfirings, cylinder 3
29CE Misfirings, cylinder 2
29CC Misfirings, several cylinders
2D25 manipulation cover, maximum air mass

HELP

I have replaced the spark plugs and the coils. Have JP4 and Injen Dual Intake since 50,000. Car started misfiring at 78000, now at 88000. PLease share any and all ideas

[Ms6 to 335i]

Originally Posted by Jeohn

29CD Misfirings, cylinder 1
29CF Misfirings, cylinder 3
29CE Misfirings, cylinder 2
29CC Misfirings, several cylinders
2D25 manipulation cover, maximum air mass

HELP

I have replaced the spark plugs and the coils. Have JP4 and Injen Dual Intake since 50,000. Car started misfiring at 78000, now at 88000. PLease share any and all ideas

fuel injectors

[Bunkei]

Hi there folks, I just got my JB4 installed. Now prior to this, I've been having issues with the car (would stop accelerating/hesitating and then started to run very rough).

I've had the following done:

- Fuel Injectors and Spark Plugs were replaced back in November
- Walnut blasting to remove carbon build up

The good news that the car will now accelerate smoothly to redline on stock boost (most likely due to the decarb that was just done this morning), but on Maps 1 & 5, it will not go to redline and goes into limp mode instead. The errors are:

29CE
29D0
29CC
30FF

The constant symptom that I've been noticing is that idle is uneven--it will idle at 600, then sometimes goes up to 800, then back down to 600. I can also feel misfires every so often. My resident mechanic suggested possibly fuel pump related, and asked if the car takes longer to crank. I said no, but after he left. It did take longer than I consider normal to crank, but I'm wondering if that's the placebo effect.

Any ideas on possible causes would be awesome.

Thank you in advance

[akotten]

Just thought I'd share my misfire experience.

Had a very consistent misfire on Cyl1, even at only 12psi of boost. Swapped Cyl1 & Cyl2 spark plugs and coils, and the misfire followed to Cyl2. Ordered a new coil and a full set of NGK 5992 spark plugs. Should have the issue resolved next week.

[HellsBells]

I ruled out coils, replaced the spark plugs.
I knew that my problem was not HPFP or injectors as they were replaced under warranty last year, so that left me with CARBON BUILDUP.

I went to a local shop in Maryland and had them cleaned today via Walnut Blasting service... problem solved.

This should be a must do after 30k miles... I will post pictures later, but they were cruddy.

Before and after pictures attached

[Dinan_Bimmer]

whats the deal with the dealers on this do they check this under warranty as well?

[JLiusifer]

Last night I installed my Cobb Accessport and chose the Stage 1 map that requires 91 octane. After the flash I got a CEL with a code of Misfire in Cyl 6.

I searched around the forum and most are saying that I will need to either swap coils with cyl 6 with another cylinder or change out my spark plugs.

My car has 71k and the last time the spark plugs were changed around 45k.

What kind of spark plugs do you recommend? Do I have to stick with BMW parts? What about the coils? Can I just get an off brand from the local auto parts store?

Thanks!

[Dinan_Bimmer]

well for plugs Advance auto parts carries them, sometimes locally, ZGR6STE2 pt number

[JLiusifer]

Thanks! How about coils? I have a Advance Auto near my house.

[Dinan_Bimmer]

Originally Posted by JLiusifer

Thanks! How about coils? I have a Advance Auto near my house.

they do list 2 kinds of coils, Part No. E1092 is one but both were not in stock at any stores locally for me.

[HellsBells]

Originally Posted by JLiusifer

Last night I installed my Cobb Accessport and chose the Stage 1 map that requires 91 octane. After the flash I got a CEL with a code of Misfire in Cyl 6.

I searched around the forum and most are saying that I will need to either swap coils with cyl 6 with another cylinder or change out my spark plugs.

My car has 71k and the last time the spark plugs were changed around 45k.

What kind of spark plugs do you recommend? Do I have to stick with BMW parts? What about the coils? Can I just get an off brand from the local auto parts store?

Thanks!

I would change the spark plugs first, it sounds like you need it anyway.
There is any easy way to see if it is the spark plugs versus the coils, you simply move the coils and see if the problem moves with the coils.
That being said, I will bet that it is the plugs and if you have not had your intakes cleaned that it is carbon buildup.

Also, just get the plugs and coils OEM, don't scrimp on these...

[Dinan_Bimmer]

the advance plugs ARE OEM they just dont say BMW on them...