[NoGuru]

Did you run out of $$$, time, or both

[KnighTT]

No....

This happened....



I ran across a deal for a LR4 I could not pass up. Blown engine but in incredible condition. (I've had 4 Land Rovers and restored a Disco II a while back)

I've already got the new engine and have all the parts on the way to put the new one back in. Once that is done, back to the E92.

[NoGuru]

LOL, no worries. That looks like a fun project. I have always wanted a Land Rover.

[KnighTT]

It's time.....to knock the dust off and get this project back on track.



OK...so I have actually been away from this long enough, I have to try and dig up where I left off. I've got 5 bins I need to unpack and try and remember what parts I ordered.

[gster109]

Originally Posted by KnighTT

Side note. Ordered the head PCV plug kit from VTT. The guy I bought the VTT valve cover kit from must have not ordered it. I'll be going ext PCV and a dual catch can setup right off the bat.

Onwards, I got the crank back in the car over the weekend while I patiently waited for my new torque wrench to arrive. I had to go down to Harbor Freight and buy it in person as I got tired of waiting for it(2 weeks). I'll just return the one that comes in the mail.

BTW...after using a digital torque wrench for 5 minutes I'll never go back. Especially with these angle torques. Great wrench.









After this my wrench arrived and I was able to get the main bolts torqued and the bedplate bolts.

I had to tear apart all of my assembled pistons and rods as I used some cheap Dremel wire brush from Amazon, to clean something, and 90% of the little bristles flew off like confetti all over my work area. So...I realized that they got all over my pistons stuck in the assembly lube. So those got torn apart and thoroughly cleaned.

I got two pistons in the engine last night. BTW, using Driven BR40 break in oil. Too many reviews on how great it is and Total Seal did a report on a bunch of break in oils and this one seems to be in the top three.

I am happy to report that turning the crank, even with 2 pistons in, is just buttery smooth. Makes me happy.

Which magnetic oil drain bolt did you go with?

[KnighTT]

Haven't grabbed one yet. I think ECS makes a decent one.

[KnighTT]

Ordered a few things and getting research back up and running.

- Ordered a used M platic trim piece for my steering wheel. I have the standard sport wheel and this will be a nice visual upgrade.
- Ordered a new leather skin kit to cover the steering wheel in. I had one of these for the 135i and it is a much more enjoyable feel/grip. It will also increase the thickness a bit which will make it feel a bit more sporty that the stock wheel vs M.

All this is to enjoy my steering wheel more and not convince myself into replacing it with a track wheel, yet. When/if the car becomes track only, then we will ditch such pleasantries.

I have been doing some research on the next parts to order to get the engine and drivetrain track ready. To support the power goals of the future as well as the present.

I have been turned onto the Mfactory SMFW and the 550i/335is clutch kit for both power handling as well as price point. This should more than handle the power I am going to be putting down for track days. This isn't being built to be some 700-1000 HP roll racer or drag setup. It's meant to road race/autocross. Something I need reliable power delivery for not a truckload of HP putting me into the wall.

500 AWHP/500TQ will be more than enough for the track when paired with the right weight reduction, handling, and braking.

Also looking at the CSF 2 row alum radiator. A larger oil cooler.

[KnighTT]

What I am finding tough right now is nailing down a solid exhaust option for the 335xi.

I want a system designed like the VSRF. A quick 2 into one large diameter pipe that goes the length of the vehicle and then you have the option for a muffler(street) and a race section for track.

But....no fit the XI. Not without cutting it up at a muffler shop.

I WANT THE ATM kit but in the last 2 years I have never seen their site not say "pre-order" for this system.

Is anyone running the ATM kit?

[matamua]

Originally Posted by KnighTT

Ordered a few things and getting research back up and running.

- Ordered a used M platic trim piece for my steering wheel. I have the standard sport wheel and this will be a nice visual upgrade.
- Ordered a new leather skin kit to cover the steering wheel in. I had one of these for the 135i and it is a much more enjoyable feel/grip. It will also increase the thickness a bit which will make it feel a bit more sporty that the stock wheel vs M.

All this is to enjoy my steering wheel more and not convince myself into replacing it with a track wheel, yet. When/if the car becomes track only, then we will ditch such pleasantries.

I have been doing some research on the next parts to order to get the engine and drivetrain track ready. To support the power goals of the future as well as the present.

I have been turned onto the Mfactory SMFW and the 550i/335is clutch kit for both power handling as well as price point. This should more than handle the power I am going to be putting down for track days. This isn't being built to be some 700-1000 HP roll racer or drag setup. It's meant to road race/autocross. Something I need reliable power delivery for not a truckload of HP putting me into the wall.

500 AWHP/500TQ will be more than enough for the track when paired with the right weight reduction, handling, and braking.

Also looking at the CSF 2 row alum radiator. A larger oil cooler.

Which leather skin kit did you get?

[KnighTT]

I know it has been a few months but I'm back in it pretty hard now. It's time to get this thing done so we can at least get this thing on the track at the beginning of next season.

We'll drop the eye candy and then we'll talk about what's next.







I'll have to find a before and after. The engine bay was filthy. The bell housing was caked.









The camshaft kit from Amazon works great. Just get whichever one is cheapest. They all do the same job.



About %$@^% time.....

I will admit....this was a little stroke of genius on my part. Worked like a charm holding it for the crank hub torque down.








Even I can admit this came out pretty sexy.

[KnighTT]

Well......a bunch of parts on the way. I want to get this done so I can finally enjoy driving it. It never really ran at 100% when stock, so if I am to be honest, I actually don't really know what this car was supposed to be stock vs.....well it's going to be a full blown race car by the time I start it up again.

Lot's of stuff on the way as I finally decided to go all in on getting into motorsport.

- IRP clone self centering shifter. Reverse lockout. I'll do a write up when I get it.
- DSSR from BMS to pair up with the new shifter. New shift bushing for the transmission as well.
- All new slave, master, lines, fork, bearing etc etc. I want the manual trans to be as good as it gets when I'm done.
- I needed a full solution to relocated inlets, which lead down a rabbit hole of all that comes with it, and decided the Turner system was the only real way to go to solve all of the relocations that come with it. Plus, it looks amazing and should be extremely functional for track use. Heat shields, new coolant res, fully boxes in the intakes and channels air.
- New engine mounts that will be urethane filled.
- Pilot bearing
- Turbo install hardware.

I've ordered what I should need to at least get the engine back in the car and onto the subframe. The Turner kit won't be here for a good month. They are on backorder.

I think I only have two last larger purchases that are on the list.
- ATM exhaust
- BC Coil overs from FCP.

I've thought a lot about what coil overs to get and I've decided I want something with a great warranty(FCPs guarantee will do) and nothing crazy up front as who knows if I'll actually get to the track all that often.

Let's be honest.....sinking a truck ton of money into track upgrades for this car and then not actually end up going often is foolish. If I do end up getting serious about track days, I'll have a few things I'll upgrade based on feedback from the car.



-

[BSM n54iS]

Nice build! Looking forward to seeing the full Turner inlet kit, how much weight have you managed to drop?

[NoGuru]

Glad you are back at it. I contemplate turning mine into a full blown race are everyday.

[KnighTT]

Some parts came in today.



Also, a new front driveshaft from Dorman with serviceable grease fittings. After reading about how they fail, and seeing the red dust in the joints, I think this is exactly where my shutter was coming from.

[KnighTT]

Oh, and what is this?

This is an IRP clone made by "Jackspania Racing". I don't even think it is a clone. I think it comes from the exact same factory as it is exactly the same. Excellent quality. I picked up the DSSR that BMS makes to go along with it.

What's different? $219 is what it costs. Which came in a whole lot less than rebuilding the entire shifting assembly of the stock unit. So why not.

[HGreen335]

Originally Posted by KnighTT

Oh, and what is this?

This is an IRP clone made by "Jackspania Racing". I don't even think it is a clone. I think it comes from the exact same factory as it is exactly the same. Excellent quality. I picked up the DSSR that BMS makes to go along with it.

What's different? $219 is what it costs. Which came in a whole lot less than rebuilding the entire shifting assembly of the stock unit. So why not.

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This looks pretty nice. And I agree does look identical to the IRP one ecstuning sells. Let us know how it works out. Not much info on these.

[KnighTT]

Got the turbos on last night. Feel like this is finally coming together.





I have to order a couple parts to finish this side. Once again, the rear upper coolant line is different than what is it supposed to be. Oddly there are two different kinds of rear n54 turbos. One has the wastage on the bottom and one has one on the top. So there is 2 different kind of rear upper coolant lines.

I ordered one from FCP and the repair silicon hose for the coolant inlet line. Mine is worn out enough I'm not going to rely on it.

[KnighTT]

Turns out the rear upper coolant line bolt hole was stripped out. I decided to do it right and happened to have a tap and even some bolts for the next size up from an old Land Rover project. Tapped it out and the new bolt torqued up great.

The fear of all the oil and coolant lines is if any of them leak, it is hard to find which one, and it is an absolute paint to work on any of the lines when the engine is in the car.

Right now I have the oil pan soaking in Formula 88 degreaser as it was pretty filthy.

Next is getting the oil pan on, put the bed plate sealant in, and then install the VC gasket and the engine is done.

If you look really close, the top bolt for the water pump snapped off. I could not get it out so I'm going to have to deal with it only being held on with 2.

[matamua]

Originally Posted by KnighTT

Turns out the rear upper coolant line bolt hole was stripped out. I decided to do it right and happened to have a tap and even some bolts for the next size up from an old Land Rover project. Tapped it out and the new bolt torqued up great.

The fear of all the oil and coolant lines is if any of them leak, it is hard to find which one, and it is an absolute paint to work on any of the lines when the engine is in the car.

Right now I have the oil pan soaking in Formula 88 degreaser as it was pretty filthy.

Next is getting the oil pan on, put the bed plate sealant in, and then install the VC gasket and the engine is done.

If you look really close, the top bolt for the water pump snapped off. I could not get it out so I'm going to have to deal with it only being held on with 2.

Did you already try an extractor for the top bolt?

[KnighTT]

Yes. I spent a few hours trying several different things. I got the extractor in there so good it finally snapped off trying to get it out. It is what it is.

The bolt head was already snapped off so my theory is the prior owner cross threaded it, jammed it up, and snapped the head off trying to get it back out.

[matamua]

Originally Posted by KnighTT

Yes. I spent a few hours trying several different things. I got the extractor in there so good it finally snapped off trying to get it out. It is what it is.

The bolt head was already snapped off so my theory is the prior owner cross threaded it, jammed it up, and snapped the head off trying to get it back out.

Bummer.

[KnighTT]

I decided to return the IRP style shifter. The BMS DSSR I purchased didn't fit it. Which concerned me as that means that a DSSR might be hard to source. So then I went out to take a look at what the height of this shifter would be anyway. I realized that when I'm not on the track that the height may not be what I want.

For right now I'm going to assess what the front and rear bushings are like on the stock linkage, and see if they need replaced but I'm going to keep the stock shifter for now and then plan on putting the Turner short shifter system in later. It is fully adjustable and you can go from a stock height and add a rally height for track days. I think that's the best solution for street and track in one.

What was surprised is that eBay allowed me to return the shifter and even gave me a free shipping label. Maybe eBay is finally getting to be a bit more like Amazon when it comes to returns.

I also went ahead and ordered the Circuit Werks cat back exhaust system off ebay. My plan was to pick up the ATM, which is on backorder until December is sounds, but I also want something that is real life friendly. ATM is great for the track, obviously, but being in part of an established neighborhood...with an HOA....and driving around the streets on the weekends, a race exhaust is not the best idea. If I get more into track days, we can revisit.

The CW exhaust is only $450. It also sounds a lot deeper and HKS like which is a preference for me.

Hoping to get the engine at least back in the engine bay within the next week. I may have to wait for the inlets to come in as they are much more difficult to install when the engine is installed.