[divisionbell77]

I have the big old 1 gallon jug of ONR and was going to make some quick detail spray out of it, but before hand wanted to double check my mixture.

I have 32 ounce spray bottles, from what I can tell it would take either 1 1/2 or 2 ounces of ONR for 32 ounce of water. The jug does not state the QD mixture, but from what I found it to be both 6 and 8 ounce per 1 gallon of water.

[Weaselboy]

Originally Posted by divisionbell77

I have the big old 1 gallon jug of ONR and was going to make some quick detail spray out of it, but before hand wanted to double check my mixture.

I have 32 ounce spray bottles, from what I can tell it would take either 1 1/2 or 2 ounces of ONR for 32 ounce of water. The jug does not state the QD mixture, but from what I found it to be both 6 and 8 ounce per 1 gallon of water.

According to this the QD ratio is 8 OZ per gallon (128 OZ). So one fourth that, 2 OZ for your 32 OZ sprayer. Or four capfuls in the 32 OZ sprayer.

[fooledyas]

hi
I'm sure this has been asked before but my brain hurts from reading thru all the search results, so I'll just ask i have 2 alpine white BMW's 2011s a black 2010challenger all in great shape maybe some very light swirl marks and some water spots
i'm looking to get the pc polisher mostly to save wear and tear o my arms. All the different kits u have its hard to pick the one thats right 4 me. i like getting a deal but don't want to get a bunch of unneeded stuff.

[kalamokid]

EDIT POST
Hello experts. I'm about to pull the trigger on some products. From what I understand the two most popular interior products used are

1 303 AEROSPACE PROTECTANT W/SPRAYER (16OZ)

And
2 1Z EINSZETT COCKPIT PREMIUM W/SPRAYER (16.9OZ)

I also understand that both products are used for different reasons. My question is what would be a correct schedule and sequence of use for each product?

Would you use the einszett once a week on dash and trim and use the 303 once a month to protect? Any help would be great thanks!

[MCMLXXXIX]

Looking through my products and Ive found a bottle of Chemical Guys Jet Seal 109, Poorboys SSR1 and SSR2.5 that I purchased in summer of 2009. Is there an expiration date on these products? They all have between 60-80% left each. Id hate to dispose of them

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by divisionbell77

I have the big old 1 gallon jug of ONR and was going to make some quick detail spray out of it, but before hand wanted to double check my mixture.

I have 32 ounce spray bottles, from what I can tell it would take either 1 1/2 or 2 ounces of ONR for 32 ounce of water. The jug does not state the QD mixture, but from what I found it to be both 6 and 8 ounce per 1 gallon of water.

It somewhat depends on how it's being used as a quick detailer and personal preference. I think you can use it about 2oz to 30oz of water, but you may prefer a richer concentration for a slicker surface. 8oz of ONR to 24oz of water is probably on the high side of what could be used for a quick detailer so somewhere in that range should be fine. If you want to be extra safe go up to 8oz and if you need a better value try using a bit less, you can always add more ONR to the spray bottle if needed. Hope this helps!

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by fooledyas

hi
I'm sure this has been asked before but my brain hurts from reading thru all the search results, so I'll just ask i have 2 alpine white BMW's 2011s a black 2010challenger all in great shape maybe some very light swirl marks and some water spots
i'm looking to get the pc polisher mostly to save wear and tear o my arms. All the different kits u have its hard to pick the one thats right 4 me. i like getting a deal but don't want to get a bunch of unneeded stuff.

I understand so many choices can make it hard. In general I would suggest you pick up the DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP 5.5" Starter Kit, and you can select any combination of pads you prefer by adding a comment in the comment field.

As for products if you just want to use a very light polish try the Menzerna Super Finish Polish SF 4000 (PO106FA Nano Polish) is a great choice applied with at least two white pads. This will help safely remove very fine imperfections, oxidation, etc. and restore a great shine. Afterward you can protect the surface and enhance the shine with a quality sealant. The Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant is one of my favorite choices and can be applied with the blue pad.

I hand remove both of these products with clean DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel, probably at least 2 - 3 to remove the polish and 1 - 2 for the sealant. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by kalamokid

EDIT POST
Hello experts. I'm about to pull the trigger on some products. From what I understand the two most popular interior products used are

1 303 AEROSPACE PROTECTANT W/SPRAYER (16OZ)

And
2 1Z EINSZETT COCKPIT PREMIUM W/SPRAYER (16.9OZ)

I also understand that both products are used for different reasons. My question is what would be a correct schedule and sequence of use for each product?

Would you use the einszett once a week on dash and trim and use the 303 once a month to protect? Any help would be great thanks!

The Einszett 1Z Cockpit Premium is a great choice for a light cleaning and protection. I think using this weekly or bi-weekly makes sense. If you want additional protection that is better suited to block UV rays the 303 Aerospace Protectant can be applied. Once a month is about right for this product depending on conditions. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by MCMLXXXIX

Looking through my products and Ive found a bottle of Chemical Guys Jet Seal 109, Poorboys SSR1 and SSR2.5 that I purchased in summer of 2009. Is there an expiration date on these products? They all have between 60-80% left each. Id hate to dispose of them

In general detailing supplies usually last about 4 - 5 years in ideal condition assuming they were not exposed to extremely high or low temps. After 4 - 5 years they tend to slowly lose their effectiveness. When using a questionable product I would shake it vigorously first and then pour out a tiny bit on an applicator if the color and texture is consistent I would then proceed to testing it on a small non-visible area. Inspect the results carefully and if you don't see any issues it's probably safe to continue using. If it will not mix properly and look uniform it's probably best to just throw it out, but you could try a test spot if desired.

Greg @ DI

[divisionbell77]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

It somewhat depends on how it's being used as a quick detailer and personal preference. I think you can use it about 2oz to 30oz of water, but you may prefer a richer concentration for a slicker surface. 8oz of ONR to 24oz of water is probably on the high side of what could be used for a quick detailer so somewhere in that range should be fine. If you want to be extra safe go up to 8oz and if you need a better value try using a bit less, you can always add more ONR to the spray bottle if needed. Hope this helps!

Greg @ DI

I'd be using it when drying the car. Dry car with microfiber weave(spot method) and then mist with QD and finish with ultra soft microfiber towel.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by divisionbell77

I'd be using it when drying the car. Dry car with microfiber weave(spot method) and then mist with QD and finish with ultra soft microfiber towel.

I'd probably start with it more diluted and if you don't like the results add in more ONR as needed. Otherwise it sounds like a good plan. If you have any questions please let me know.

Greg @ DI

[newtobimmer23]

I recently got my car detailed by a reputable detail center and I'm not sure what to make of it. The paint is exceptionally smooth and great shine. In indirect sunlight, the car looks great and almost brand new.

Sitting in the garage under led and halogen lights, the car looks stunning. However, in direct sunlight, it seems there is some haze going on or the sun hitting the panels and just a weird effect going on that wasn't there before.

Not sure if it is too much product and after a hand wash, it'll be fine or there is damage done. What can it possibly be and what can I do to remedy it? Thanks.

[nation]

could you suggest a wax for sparkling graphite? im currently using meg #16 wax.
it worked great on the sti but i think for the money theres got to be something that will really make the paint look deep.

[nitehawk]

Hi Greg,

Quick question. How do you typically recommend applying a sealant: by hand or with a PC? I have both the DI Yellow Foam Applicator Pads for hand application and the 5.5" Blue Fine Finishing Pads to use with the PC. The sealant I will use is Blackfire Wet Diamond.

Is there any need to apply pressure or is the natural movement of my hands adequate?

[WesleyC]

Hi Greg,

Sorry if this has been covered, but I've been having a hard time with my exhaust tips. There is a ton of carbon that has been a pita to remove. I've used the Magic Eraser (both normal and extra strength) with decent results, but it is still not good enough for me. Would 0000 steel wool be a better option? Is there any sort or liquid/paste that you would recommend for me to use to help break down the carbon before I start scrubbing with the steel wool?

Thanks,
Wes

[tofu-]

does nanoscrub strip wax and/or sealants?

both fine and regular versions of the nanoscrub

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by newtobimmer23

I recently got my car detailed by a reputable detail center and I'm not sure what to make of it. The paint is exceptionally smooth and great shine. In indirect sunlight, the car looks great and almost brand new.

Sitting in the garage under led and halogen lights, the car looks stunning. However, in direct sunlight, it seems there is some haze going on or the sun hitting the panels and just a weird effect going on that wasn't there before.

Not sure if it is too much product and after a hand wash, it'll be fine or there is damage done. What can it possibly be and what can I do to remedy it? Thanks.

Most likely it's a bugger trail from the detailer polishing the surface. BMW's, especially darker colors, seem to be a bit more prone to this showing up. It's generally fixed by using another finer combination of polish and pad. I would first wash with the Chemical Guys Citrus Wash to remove the protection on the surface. Assuming it's very faint I would most likely use the Menzerna Micro Polish SF 4500 (PO85RD) and the Lake Country Black Finishing Pad (blue or crimson pads works too). This usually helps clear up a light haze.

Afterward you'll want to apply a sealant or wax to protect the finish again. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by nation

could you suggest a wax for sparkling graphite? im currently using meg #16 wax.
it worked great on the sti but i think for the money theres got to be something that will really make the paint look deep.

Thank you for the question I'd be happy to help. First off giving the paint a quick polish could be the biggest help. Polishes help remove oxidation, light swirls, etc. so you get that deep shine back. Even a brand new vehicle can usually benefit from a very light polishing. Therefore depending on the age and condition of the paint you may want to start there.

If you polish or don't a wax certainly can help enhance the appearance. Two of my top choices would be the Chemical Guys 50/50 Limited Series Concours Paste Wax Version 2 and the Dodo Juice Rainforest Rub Soft Wax. Both look exceptional and really make the flake pop! If you want another choice that is more cost effective but still great the Chemical Guys XXX Hard Core Paste Wax is good deal!

Don't forget we have FREE S/H through 7/4 with the code July4Ship12, no min spend. Let me know if you need a polish recommendation and if so let me know more about your vehicle. Take care!

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by nitehawk

Hi Greg,

Quick question. How do you typically recommend applying a sealant: by hand or with a PC? I have both the DI Yellow Foam Applicator Pads for hand application and the 5.5" Blue Fine Finishing Pads to use with the PC. The sealant I will use is Blackfire Wet Diamond.

Is there any need to apply pressure or is the natural movement of my hands adequate?

In my opinion there is very little difference between the application methods. In general a hand application gets in the corners better, while a buffer spreads it thinner and more evenly. Polishes are really where a buffer has a huge advantage and becomes more critical. If I use a buffer to apply a sealant I use a blue pad, if done by hand virtually any soft applicator works just make sure it is CLEAN! Sealants are simply spread on the surface they do not need to be worked in to the surface like a polish, so light pressure is plenty. Our (http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-De...uide/Sealants/) sealant section of our detailing guide may be helpful as well. Keep me posted if you have additional questions and I hope you enjoy the BFWD!

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Wes.

Hi Greg,

Sorry if this has been covered, but I've been having a hard time with my exhaust tips. There is a ton of carbon that has been a pita to remove. I've used the Magic Eraser (both normal and extra strength) with decent results, but it is still not good enough for me. Would 0000 steel wool be a better option? Is there any sort or liquid/paste that you would recommend for me to use to help break down the carbon before I start scrubbing with the steel wool?

Thanks,
Wes

Wes,

Steel wool can work pretty effectively. I'm not a huge fan of it though because if you use it repeatedly I fear it could add some faint scratches or potentially harm the finish. So if you use it try to do so sparingly just to be extra safe. You may also want to try a cleaner on it like the CarPro Iron X Iron Remover, which I've been using on the paint, wheels, etc. My other go to product is a quality metal polish like the P21S Finish Restorer. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask!

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by tofu-

does nanoscrub strip wax and/or sealants?

both fine and regular versions of the nanoscrub

They are not designed to strip off all protection but yes it will remove some of the protection from the surface. The Chemical Guys Citrus Wash or something similar would be wise to wash with before hand so you remove the protection before using the NanoSkin AutoScrub Fine Foam Pad. This is the most effective way to use the product and get maximum cleaning power. Hope this info helps!

Greg @ DI

[mob17]

Greg,

I wish you shipped to the UK