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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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auto transmission hard down shift
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02-07-2017, 11:01 AM | #177 | |
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02-07-2017, 11:20 AM | #178 |
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Yeah man, tough call. He has the fault code , i had him check it a week ago. He goes " i dont want to give you an answer now , i dont want to scare you" so either he does not know or he is trying to avoid replacing it for me. Hes a great tech but when i mentioned solenoids for the dowshift he kinda was like " what, oh those " but also when you try to tell a tech that you read a forum thread they kind of hate that shit lol. He had diagnosed my car 100% perfect every time and is a very good dude. He also may have not learned to do anything but replace bmw transmissions. A lot of people think that if you take them apart and change the fluid, etc that it will ruin them. Which sounds weird, he did say " the fluid is lifetime lasting, it could get worse changing it " and i just cant believe that. How is anything in a ever lasting? No way. I guess im stuck waiting on the news. Sucks! Im pretty confident the shop has my best interest but from reading around, there are more answers than just replacing the whole thing.
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02-07-2017, 11:39 AM | #179 | |
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02-07-2017, 11:56 AM | #180 |
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Exactly, and thats why im prob waiting for a response still. So lame. Ive done all the non invasive software things. We reset my adaptation already, actually after he did that the for the first time, i got the limp mode light and all that. In fact it was on the drive home from his shop that i first got that light and went into limp, right after he reset the adapt and updated software. I have a weird idle issue too that we havent resolved, and we have done a lot of shut. It just slightly searches rpms on cold and hot start. He said maybe a walnut blast would help. We already cleaned the throttle body, did the software , my coils and vanos solenoids are done, CCV is done, Crank shaft position sensor is done, plugs, and one more real important sensor we did along with CCV and Crank position sensor. And still this little annoying idle issue. I almost wish he never reset my adaptive trans. Now im in a world of shit when before the car was fine. I also have an oil leak and need a tensioner, and my angel eyes are done for life. Short in the wiring due to the plastic coating peeling off. He told me they have to be replaced completely, and its like 2000 bucks to get OEM headlight fixtures and install them. Prob 1800 or so. So as i write this, if the trans is going to be replaced, ill trade it in this week and lose the 3000 on negative trade value. I cant hang with it, too much. If its a repair that 1000 bucks ill do it. Anyway, thats my life for now lol its too bad because the car is in immaculate shape! Like so perfect!
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02-07-2017, 01:10 PM | #181 |
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Zigsman, When you had the 2-1 bump, was it only when the transmission was hot? And when you did the solenoids, did you also do the valve body rebuild with a zipkit? I am getting the 2-1 bump but only when hot after having driven for over 20 minutes. I can easily duplicate the bump shifting from 2-1 manually while stopped.
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02-10-2017, 05:50 PM | #182 | |
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03-04-2017, 10:56 PM | #183 |
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Zigsman:
I recently got my girlfriend into a 2006 330xi with the automatic transmission. Car seemed perfect when I bought it, I myself drive a 2006 330i 6MT so when test driving I thought the rough jolt at a stop was just me not use to driving auto. Anyways, I now know that it is the shifting in the transmission. I can reproduce the rough shifts by putting the car in manual mode and shifting while stopped. 1st to 2nd up shift has slight bang, but 2nd-1st downshift is a real thump-er and I want to get it fixed up. I have all the INPA and coding software and have done basic coding on the e90s. Is it possible to check the software version on the transmission myself and possibly update it myself if outdated. I tried the tranny resets etc, nothing helped the 2-1 and 1-2 shifts are bad and always present, even on a cold start. Car has 223,000kms and we purchased from original owner. How can I verify which transmission the car has? Canadian model, can provide the vin if that will help? Has anyone packaged a whole kit together for this? Oil, gaskets, solenoids, filter etc |
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03-04-2017, 11:35 PM | #184 | |
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Near the beginning of this thread, I posted all the required parts to fix this issue. If you don't want to do the work yourself, you should be able to get a good shop to do it for you instead. You will need to look at the plate on your transmission and get the actual model number to ensure you order the proper parts. The only way to know for sure which transmission you have installed is to physically find the plate on your transmission. |
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02-12-2018, 07:20 AM | #185 |
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Hello
I realize these posts are a bit old, but it is totally relevant to the situation I have with my '06 330 Xi, so I hope you are still out there. About 70k miles, I started having the 2-1 bump and issues with the 4-5 shift. Under load the car would occasionally go into limp mode. I changed the fluid and filter and it seemed to get better, but did return. Now I have 105k miles and the issues have somewhat worsened, so I replaced all the solenoids, mechatronic seals, fluids and filter. I reset the adaptions with the Bavtech tool. The 4-5 gear shift seems to have gone away, but not the 1-2 bump. Any suggestions? I did not go into the valve and replace with a Zip kit. |
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02-12-2018, 07:30 AM | #186 | |
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02-12-2018, 07:56 AM | #187 | |
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02-12-2018, 08:10 AM | #188 |
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thanks for the quick reply from both of you. Do either of you have any experience with valve body rebuild from the so called Zip Kits?
Secondly, smassey, how do I measure pressure values and fill rates? This must be done on the valve body itself outside car? |
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02-12-2018, 08:14 AM | #189 |
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ISTA+ can read the values. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?t=1023698
Cable can be purchased here: https://www.bimmergeeks.net/product-...eeks-pro-cable I have not rebuilt a valve body but there are some good youtube videos. |
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02-12-2018, 08:22 AM | #190 |
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thanks, yes I have seen this video. This guy has an excellent series on the 6HP19 trans. The kit costs about $150 and the company says it cures everything. Unfortunately you need the number from the valve body to order the proper kit and of course, I forgot to do it when I did the solenoids this weekend.
Back to your question about reproducing manually from 2-1 at a stop, what would that tell me? I haven't tried but I will today |
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02-12-2018, 11:40 AM | #191 |
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Ok, so I did some testing. The 2-1 bump is not present when cold. Everything shifts perfectly. As it warms up, it gets noticeable worse until there is about a 1 sec delay shifting from 2-1. It is reproducible sitting still and manually going from 2 to 1.
Any further help would be appreciated. |
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02-12-2018, 08:04 PM | #192 | |
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Here is a DIY
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02-13-2018, 11:09 AM | #193 |
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Very good and thanks for posting.
You said it did help your situation others said, not really. I am debating. Currently my issue is 2-1 downshift thump, as has been described many times. It resulted in a fault code and limp mode yesterday. Now I am just driving it in manual shift mode where it stops at 2nd gear. |
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02-13-2018, 11:15 AM | #194 | |
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02-28-2018, 09:32 AM | #196 |
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Hi
I just wanted to come full circle on this post I started a few weeks ago. As suggested, I installed ISTA and read the pressures and fill times and sent to ZF. They responded very quickly, unfortunately it is bad news for me. Please see below My Question to ZF: I have a BMW 300xi with 110k miles. I am having an issue with delayed 2 - 1 downshift. I changed the ZF fluid, filter, internal gaskets, new solenoids and reset adaptations. The problem is still there but only when the fluid is hot, driving for at least 15 min. When cold, shifts perfectly and progressively gets worse as it warms up. I have listed the pressures and fill times for your review. I have driven about 150 mi since adaptations were reset. Is it unusual that clutch A and D are still zero? Would a valve body rebuild with a Zip kit solve the issue? Filling pressure and rapid filling time Clutch A: 0.00 mbar, 0.00 msec Clutch B: -274.0, 1.00 Clutch C: -300.0, -15.00 Clutch D: 0.00, 0.00 Clutch E: -28.0, 0.00 ZF response: The adaption charge pressures look good. I believe you have a worn bushing. There are several shafts with brass or aluminum bushings, which wear over time. Once the transmission warms up, there is some leakage between a shaft and bushing. You typically won't be able to visually check them, because they all look good. There is a chance that you have a leak in the control unit, but bushing leaks are very common. Eriksson Industries sells the bushing kits, Sonnax kits and ZF mechatronics. |
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07-04-2018, 01:12 PM | #197 |
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Hard downshift and host of other problems
So my ex sells our young daughter her husband's 2002 330xi and says there is nothing wrong with it.
Well, after sitting for three years, the e-brake was locked up so we had it drug up on a flatbed and dropped off at my place. Rear brakes redone and I try to start it. Would barely run till it warmed up. Heard air leaks and found the secondary air pump hose blown out and the mass airflow tube cracked. Got those replaced and plugged in the scanner. First code P1508 Speed control valve Opening, solenoid control open circuit. Next is P0056 - Heater Control Circuit Bank 2, Sensor 2. Next is P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input. Finally, P1504 Idle Speed control valve closing Solenoid Control Open Circuit. I take it down the road and realize the speedometer doesn't work and of course the MPG gauge also doesn't. Then there is a "sprocket" image with an exclamation point in it showing next to the shift indicator and in the center, there is a counterclockwise arrow circle with a triangle and an exclamation point in that. Brake, ABS and what I assume is the wear sensor lights are on. Service Engine Soon and "EML" lights are on. I slow down to turn around and hear the CV joints clicking and as I slow to a stop, the hard downshift from 3 to 2 then a slightly less jerk from 2 to 1...which led me here. From reading the posts, before I drop $700-800 on tranny solenoids and other parts, I noticed some say it could be other issues not telling the ECM how hard I am driving? Needless to say, it doesn't seem my ex's husband was very forthcoming with this car's issues (he is a salesman). Any guidance would be most appreciative. I love the BMW's and had a '89 535i back in the day...best car I ever owned! |
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07-04-2018, 01:21 PM | #198 | |
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