[6spdTanzM4]

I have read all these posts on the misfires and took the car in to the dealer three times for this issue. Tonight though I am happy as I got the car back with no misfires, jerking, or rough idles after driving 40-50 miles. Same initial issues as everyone else here. In the end I ended up with 6 all new (updated version) injectors and 6 new plugs and that seems to have done it for my car. Here is the timeline for how it all went down if it helps anyone else:

09 335i with 40-41k miles when the rough idle started, all stock.

Visit 1. First visit was a combo of this problem and scheduled maintenance. The dealer said they are aware of the issue and will follow their procedure to work it out. To start with under scheduled maintenance they were replacing all the plugs and would wait to do anything else, and actually couldn't because the car wasn't throwing any codes. This didn't fix anything and actually seemed to make things worse.

Visit 2. Took it back in and told them it wasn't fixed. So they kept it for 2 days and told me this time there were misfire codes on the 2nd bank - cylinders 4,5,6. They replaced the injectors in this bank only, because I guess per BMW they won't get reimbursed for the work unless the car actually throws codes. Get the car back - no change, same problem, they can't do any more.

Visit 3. This time I read the codes myself after a week and it threw H29D1, H29D0, H29CC, which are codes for misfires in specific and multiple cylinders. *Do not clear codes on your own, just read them* If you clear them the dealership will not be able to do anything. This was also a day after factor warranty was up - but if you schedule it beforehand then your warranty is still in effect fwiw. This time they ran a bunch of diagnostic tests, swapped some coils around to make sure those weren't the problem, and put new updated injectors in the first bank - cylinders 1,2,3. They also took out the 3 plugs they just put in and installed 3 NEW NEW ones. This seems to have done the trick.

This was Murray BMW in Denver and in the end they were great about the whole thing. The retail price on their work and parts was over $4,000 which was all under warranty. They said that since it's a known issue BMW has been known to goodwill this kind of work for free also, so keep pushing your dealer if you need to.

I made about 6 pages of notes from this post along with a list of parts that everyone mentioned and gave them a little packet. Not sure if it helped or not but it would give them some clues potentially as to what to check.

Will update this post if anything changes or if misfires or rough idle comes back.

[fordperf]

Originally Posted by shiftmr2t

I have read all these posts on the misfires and took the car in to the dealer three times for this issue. Tonight though I am happy as I got the car back with no misfires, jerking, or rough idles after driving 40-50 miles. Same initial issues as everyone else here. In the end I ended up with 6 all new (updated version) injectors and 6 new plugs and that seems to have done it for my car. Here is the timeline for how it all went down if it helps anyone else:

09 335i with 40-41k miles when the rough idle started, all stock.

Visit 1. First visit was a combo of this problem and scheduled maintenance. The dealer said they are aware of the issue and will follow their procedure to work it out. To start with under scheduled maintenance they were replacing all the plugs and would wait to do anything else, and actually couldn't because the car wasn't throwing any codes. This didn't fix anything and actually seemed to make things worse.

Visit 2. Took it back in and told them it wasn't fixed. So they kept it for 2 days and told me this time there were misfire codes on the 2nd bank - cylinders 4,5,6. They replaced the injectors in this bank only, because I guess per BMW they won't get reimbursed for the work unless the car actually throws codes. Get the car back - no change, same problem, they can't do any more.

Visit 3. This time I read the codes myself after a week and it threw H29D1, H29D0, H29CC, which are codes for misfires in specific and multiple cylinders. *Do not clear codes on your own, just read them* If you clear them the dealership will not be able to do anything. This was also a day after factor warranty was up - but if you schedule it beforehand then your warranty is still in effect fwiw. This time they ran a bunch of diagnostic tests, swapped some coils around to make sure those weren't the problem, and put new updated injectors in the first bank - cylinders 1,2,3. They also took out the 3 plugs they just put in and installed 3 NEW NEW ones. This seems to have done the trick.

This was Murray BMW in Denver and in the end they were great about the whole thing. The retail price on their work and parts was over $4,000 which was all under warranty. They said that since it's a known issue BMW has been known to goodwill this kind of work for free also, so keep pushing your dealer if you need to.

I made about 6 pages of notes from this post along with a list of parts that everyone mentioned and gave them a little packet. Not sure if it helped or not but it would give them some clues potentially as to what to check.

Will update this post if anything changes or if misfires or rough idle comes back.

Thanks for posting your info. I have the same year as you, and have documented my story at http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=840983

I am curious how you have the latest injectors when they cannot be replaced one at a time or one bank at a time, they need to be replaced all 6 at the same time. That would mean that your first bank of replacements was actually with the old part number injectors? However it is possible that the 2nd time they replaced all 6 with the new part number. I have more info on that in my story.

[6spdTanzM4]

Originally Posted by fordperf

Thanks for posting your info. I have the same year as you, and have documented my story at http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=840983

I am curious how you have the latest injectors when they cannot be replaced one at a time or one bank at a time, they need to be replaced all 6 at the same time. That would mean that your first bank of replacements was actually with the old part number injectors? However it is possible that the 2nd time they replaced all 6 with the new part number. I have more info on that in my story.

I'm not quite sure as the dealer here told me they were aware of the issue but can only replace three at a time (1 Bank) to be reimbursed by BMW for the work. Without taking out the papers I did check the injector part # used on that second visit for the 2nd bank and they were the newer models. Car still running smooth here...no codes yet.

[WhiteFury]

I have a 2011 335i xdrive N55. I am 100% stock. i also have a thread on here if you would like to catch up on my issue. I am having a p0300 and p0301, p302 misfires.

I pulled my intake Manifold to do a carbon cleanup, I clean the intake valve carb cleaner and sucked it out with a vacuum once I put everything back together I started the car to make sure if there was any carb cleaner it was blown out, then I replaced all the spark plugs.

I took it for a test drive it anytime I enter boost or wide-open throttle it's sputters and hesitates and then the check engine light would come on.

I tried moving coils from the cylinders I got check engine lights from and it didn't fix anything.

So I just replaced all the ignition coils and I had the dealer do a smoke test to make sure I didn't have a leak. He said I passed the smoke test and there is no leak. The intake manifold studs and bolts didn't seem like they were holding torque all the way. ITorch them to spec 11 foot-pounds. However while approaching a lot of foot-pounds seemed if I wanted to tighten more it would strip when it shouldn't fact just get tighter so I'm thinking the bolts are no good. However I still passed the smoke test.

The dealer was telling me I was getting some codes that were related to combustion errors.

So When I was doing the intake valve cleaning job I used a wrench to turn the crankshaft to close different cylinders valves. When I went in the car to reset the adaptations after i was finished I forgot about the wrench on the crank pulley.

And by accident I touch the brake pedal forgetting that the car would start like an idiot, the engine turned over maybe one turn and it knocked the wrench into the radiator hose and I heard a grinding sound like as if you miss shifted to gear on a manual transmission, or you try to start the car while it was already running, like the starter grinded for a second. It didn't sound that bad though. I don't know if this has anything to do with it.

I'm thinking it may have caused the timing to go off by the teeth skipping on the chain is this possible?

My next set of options is to clean the Vanos solenoids, replace them, them, or the injectors.

I have a weird feeling about this as one of the chances of something like this going on the car right after I clean the intake valves?

Also my ECUs due for an update could this fix the problem?

I know the ECUs connected to the intake manifold and I was cleaning the intake manifold with carb cleaners and well I don't know if cleaning the runners out would cause this problem.

I also clean the maf sensor and the sensor on the charge pipe by the throttle body with maf sensor cleaner.

The car will drive fine unless I'm in boost, every time I try and enter boost or go wide-open throttle the car sputters and and drives like crap. Tonight after changing the ignition coils and the engine cooling down I was able to enter boost a few times without too much of a problem but then the sputtering and the codes were thrown again.

I was also thinking about removing the injectors and cleaning them.

The dealer is willing to let me order the injectors and keep their loaner car, and when the injectors come in on Tuesday they're willing to let me come to the dealership and put the injectors and myself so I don't have to pay them for the labor.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by WhiteFury

I have a 2011 335i xdrive N55. I am 100% stock. i also have a thread on here if you would like to catch up on my issue. I am having a p0300 and p0301, p302 misfires.

I pulled my intake Manifold to do a carbon cleanup, I clean the intake valve carb cleaner and sucked it out with a vacuum once I put everything back together I started the car to make sure if there was any carb cleaner it was blown out, then I replaced all the spark plugs.

I took it for a test drive it anytime I enter boost or wide-open throttle it's sputters and hesitates and then the check engine light would come on.

I tried moving coils from the cylinders I got check engine lights from and it didn't fix anything.

So I just replaced all the ignition coils and I had the dealer do a smoke test to make sure I didn't have a leak. He said I passed the smoke test and there is no leak. The intake manifold studs and bolts didn't seem like they were holding torque all the way. ITorch them to spec 11 foot-pounds. However while approaching a lot of foot-pounds seemed if I wanted to tighten more it would strip when it shouldn't fact just get tighter so I'm thinking the bolts are no good. However I still passed the smoke test.

The dealer was telling me I was getting some codes that were related to combustion errors.

So When I was doing the intake valve cleaning job I used a wrench to turn the crankshaft to close different cylinders valves. When I went in the car to reset the adaptations after i was finished I forgot about the wrench on the crank pulley.

And by accident I touch the brake pedal forgetting that the car would start like an idiot, the engine turned over maybe one turn and it knocked the wrench into the radiator hose and I heard a grinding sound like as if you miss shifted to gear on a manual transmission, or you try to start the car while it was already running, like the starter grinded for a second. It didn't sound that bad though. I don't know if this has anything to do with it.

I'm thinking it may have caused the timing to go off by the teeth skipping on the chain is this possible?

My next set of options is to clean the Vanos solenoids, replace them, them, or the injectors.

I have a weird feeling about this as one of the chances of something like this going on the car right after I clean the intake valves?

Also my ECUs due for an update could this fix the problem?

I know the ECUs connected to the intake manifold and I was cleaning the intake manifold with carb cleaners and well I don't know if cleaning the runners out would cause this problem.

I also clean the maf sensor and the sensor on the charge pipe by the throttle body with maf sensor cleaner.

The car will drive fine unless I'm in boost, every time I try and enter boost or go wide-open throttle the car sputters and and drives like crap. Tonight after changing the ignition coils and the engine cooling down I was able to enter boost a few times without too much of a problem but then the sputtering and the codes were thrown again.

I was also thinking about removing the injectors and cleaning them.

The dealer is willing to let me order the injectors and keep their loaner car, and when the injectors come in on Tuesday they're willing to let me come to the dealership and put the injectors and myself so I don't have to pay them for the labor.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Free bump for you.

Your only codes are misfires? Any shadow codes? I'm currently stumped at the moment but I dont think your problem were your coils, injectors, or vanos. I think it may be more related to that grinding you heard.
Perhaps your crank position sensor?

[Glowin]

I think his problem is...

[WhiteFury]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Free bump for you.

Your only codes are misfires? Any shadow codes? I'm currently stumped at the moment but I dont think your problem were your coils, injectors, or vanos. I think it may be more related to that grinding you heard.
Perhaps your crank position sensor?

So I got tired of the dealer not doing anything about it so I ordered a leak down test. I wanted to test performed on the cylinders are misfiring number 1 and number 2.

The results came back 3.7% loss on cylinder 1 and 3.9% loss on cylinder 2 BMW spec for healthy engine is less than 8%, so the dealer said my engine is very healthy and pretty much like new.

So I took the car back to my house and swapped injector number one with injector number three. I also cleaned them while they were out with gasoline as I did not want to use chemicals.

The misfire completely disappeared from these two cylinders however cylinder number five continue to misfire.

So I swap the spark plug from cylinder number five into cylinder number two and it follows the spark plug. So it's cylinder number two now misfiring I replaced that now known defective spark plug that I purchased new from BMW. I went and bought a new spark plug and placed it in cylinder number two.

The misfires completely stop! The idol is return to normal condition and the car drives 95%. However I do get random bogs at wide open throttle between 3-4k.

I'm trying to figure out if maybe the injectors could be the cause of this. I had to pull the injectors out with force they were kind of corroded in the head so I had to turn them in order to get them out.

Once I had removed the spark plugs and put them back in their easy to put in and out maybe they're not tight enough and there's a slight leak from pressure in the combustion chamber?

I ran Techron system fuel cleaner and it's still in the tank right now as I still have a eighth of a tank left.

I also clean my Vanos solenoids with compressed air From a hand pump that I have.

Any thoughts on my issue?

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by WhiteFury

So I got tired of the dealer not doing anything about it so I ordered a leak down test. I wanted to test performed on the cylinders are misfiring number 1 and number 2.

The results came back 3.7% loss on cylinder 1 and 3.9% loss on cylinder 2 BMW spec for healthy engine is less than 8%, so the dealer said my engine is very healthy and pretty much like new.

So I took the car back to my house and swapped injector number one with injector number three. I also cleaned them while they were out with gasoline as I did not want to use chemicals.

The misfire completely disappeared from these two cylinders however cylinder number five continue to misfire.

So I swap the spark plug from cylinder number five into cylinder number two and it follows the spark plug. So it's cylinder number two now misfiring I replaced that now known defective spark plug that I purchased new from BMW. I went and bought a new spark plug and placed it in cylinder number two.

The misfires completely stop! The idol is return to normal condition and the car drives 95%. However I do get random bogs at wide open throttle between 3-4k.

I'm trying to figure out if maybe the injectors could be the cause of this. I had to pull the injectors out with force they were kind of corroded in the head so I had to turn them in order to get them out.

Once I had removed the spark plugs and put them back in their easy to put in and out maybe they're not tight enough and there's a slight leak from pressure in the combustion chamber?

I ran Techron system fuel cleaner and it's still in the tank right now as I still have a eighth of a tank left.

I also clean my Vanos solenoids with compressed air From a hand pump that I have.

Any thoughts on my issue?

Check the gaps on all spark plugs. BMW 335i N54 Spark Plug Gap is .028.
I don't like the idea that one spark plug is brand new and the rest are old and possibly at a different gap.

As far as the injectors go I would reference this you tube video as it's pretty detailed:

You may then notice if you went wrong anywhere in the injector install. Double check your fittings are tight and to spec. Also make sure that the tabs don't break off when putting the injector. The tabs keep those injectors straight & true.

Apparently what is referred to as the PTFE seals are important and should be replaced when pulling injectors. I dont see many people mention that though. They are likely worth replacing if any injector is pulled though.

[WhiteFury]

I have a N55. All plugs are new, had missfires and replaced that one. The 5 plugs have 90 miles on them the one new one I replaced has 40.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by WhiteFury

I have a N55. All plugs are new, had missfires and replaced that one. The 5 plugs have 90 miles on them the one new one I replaced has 40.

My bad.
N55 Gap: .044" (1.1mm)
It's likely the pulled injector or a gap issues in the spark plug. Even new spark plugs could go wrong. Otherwise I'm stumped

[WhiteFury]

Also where do I get the tools to replaced the seals on the injectors?

[WhiteFury]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

My bad.
N55 Gap: .044" (1.1mm)
It's likely the pulled injector or a gap issues in the spark plug. Even new spark plugs could go wrong. Otherwise I'm stumped

Gap on my plugs are .027/.028

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by WhiteFury

Gap on my plugs are .027/.028

Unless my resources are incorrect that is too tight of a gap. I have here .044 as being OEM spec for being N55. Feel free to correct me if my source is wrong.

While we are on the subject which spark plugs are you using specifically? Part Number? Manufacturer?

[WhiteFury]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Unless my resources are incorrect that is too tight of a gap. I have here .044 as being OEM spec for being N55. Feel free to correct me if my source is wrong.

While we are on the subject which spark plugs are you using specifically? Part Number? Manufacturer?

BMW oem plugs.

The old plugs gapped around .030 with 63k on them.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

I'm assuming my source of .044 gap is just incorrect at this point. I've actualy googled mutliple sources and for the OEM plugs they won't even list the gap. For other aftermarket options like NGK and Denso they come up with .031 and .044.

I found one site that listed the gap for the Bosch ZGR6STE2 and it says .7MM which is .027 which would be spot on. Sigh.

I guess nobody knows at this point. Perhaps it's not the gap.

[WhiteFury]

BMW shows that I have shadow codes for ValvaTronic what is that?

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by WhiteFury

BMW shows that I have shadow codes for ValvaTronic what is that?

It's the vanos. Could be dirty or faulty. That could easily be the culprit as well.

[WhiteFury]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

It's the vanos. Could be dirty or faulty. That could easily be the culprit as well.

Could it have been when I removed them to clean?

I guy on Bimmerfest had said something about one of the lever arms under the valve cover could've popped off

What does that mean?

Also I noticed that my temperature gauge gets up to about 230 to 240°F, is this normal?

The reason I ask is because I'm in a loaner car right now it's a 2013 335i which is the N55 engine just like mine and it stuck at 180?

On a side note:
I just got the DME update done at the BMW dealership and the exhaust got quieter for sure in fact I have the secondary cats removed at the shop the other day and basically negated most of the sound. I'm really upset about that.

The sputter got a little worse also.

[WhiteFury]

I I did a compression check to make sure the cylinders were all equal and here's the results.

Compression results:

Cylinder #1 - 139 psi

Cylinder #2 - 138 psi

Cylinder #3 - 138 psi

Cylinder #4 - 141 psi

Cylinder # 5 - 139 psi

Cylinder # 6 - 140 psi

[WhiteFury]

Cylinder number five misfire came back. I have no idea why but here's a picture of the Vanos system.

[WhiteFury]

My issue finally is resolved. Thanks for the help Jeff!

[Glowin]

Originally Posted by WhiteFury

My issue finally is resolved. Thanks for the help Jeff!

Glad to hear, but after all that, would have been helpful if you'd post some more info in case it helps others...