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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > Regional Forums > UK > Dpf and egr issues (N47)



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      06-22-2020, 05:48 PM   #1
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Dpf and egr issues (N47)

Got bimmer tool the other day and it was showing 4 faults for dpf & egr (can be seen in picture attached) but since I cleared them they haven't returned yet. Though I do reckon the egr and intake manifold are caked up with soot given the state of the MAP sensor I inspected.

Today I bought the full version and it automatically requested a dpf regeneration so I took it on a spin and it done it's thing, I could feel the car doing a regeneration and could see the soot levels dropping.

However the soot level has already risen to 21g in 50 miles by time I got home. The majority of that when I left the motorway. Is that excessive or about right ? Can the soot and ash values be trusted on apps such as bimmer tool or Carly?

Not sure if it's related but I'm also starting to get a slight splutter that lasts for a fraction of a second at about 1500rpm when cruising along. Don't happen all the time but it's beginning to get more regular.
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      06-23-2020, 11:19 AM   #2
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If possible could a Mod move this thread to the UK forum please ? I might get a better response there.
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      06-24-2020, 04:00 PM   #3
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You have EGR troubles essentially. Early N47 is pneumatic operation EGR valve, fault will be the pressure converter (or similar nomenclature), later N47 fully electric EGR valve. Genuine from the dealership is cheaper than most aftermarket offerings.

You also have a problem with the differential pressure sensor by the look of things. Could br a blown hose to sensor or duff sensor. Soot quantity is an inferred value based on pressure across the dpf. If the signal is wrong then the soot estimate is wrong too.
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      06-26-2020, 05:14 AM   #4
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The errors appeared for a reason, so there's got to be an issue somewhere or the car is not being used regularly on the motorway hence the build up and codes coming. I had a problem with my 330d not regenerating due to Thermostat not reaching proper temps and a dodgy EGR pressure converter. Once those were resolve, i cleared the codes and used some forte treatment the issue has not reappeared.

The car does 2 types of regens i believe. Passive and active. Passive is always running even when you have errors. Active will only run once you reach a certain soot level and if there is nothing stopping the process form engaging e.g. low fuel, errors related to EGR or back pressure or temp not reaching up to required levels.

The soot levels once a regen are done are predicted values initially, the real values update after a short while, hence you see once a regen has been performed the soot levels go right down then they slowly creep back up again to a number then settle down and increase slowely at the expected rate. If your DPF is not clearing correctly then there could be a problem somewhere e.g. dodgy sensor or faulty/clogged EGR. (This is all what i found after having read alot of articles on the net about how the DPF system works and even then information is very limited and fragmented)

Try a rescan after a couple of days and see if any of the errors return.

Particular combination of codes but also seeing which codes appear first can lead you to the issue causing the problem. Even though my garage kept thinking the problem was fixed, using carly app and google i managed to find the source of the problem and get them to fix it accordingly. In my case the EGR code was triggering the other DPF related codes due to the dodgy pressure converter and some perished vacuum hoses. I had to run live logging to check my exhaust temps and coolant temps plus monitoring and clearing fault codes on the fly whilst driving to help pinpoint the issue i was having.
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      06-28-2020, 05:09 AM   #5
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Slight stutter when you start to speed up after cruising at around 1500-2000rpm is a sticking EGR valve.

I would get this out and see what condition it is in to start with, give it a clean, see what happens.


if it were me I would delete the swirl flaps and while doing that look at the EGR, or if it is at 100k miles just whack a new one on.
The difference in the way it will run will be worth it.

If your EGR is not working right you will be sooting up the rest of the system and you will find the car is getting blocked up far too quickly and trying to regen all the time.

What is your coolant temperature?
It should get to 89ºc in around 5 miles or so and then sit at that temperature rock solid no matter what.

If you 'stat is failing, they tend to last 4-5 years, your car won't regen properly.


The N47 should regen every 3 tank fulls or so, you can get a feel of when it is running right as it is much smoother and you will get better MPG.
When it is not it feels rougher as it is constantly trying to do a regen, even in town.

If you keep an eye on coolant temps you will see it go up to 93-97ºc when it is trying to regen too.


But that stutter is EGR. It could also
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      06-28-2020, 05:10 AM   #6
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Oh, and these EGRs can fail electronically too BTW.

It may be clean and not sticking when you push the flap, but not actually working when needed, hence no dpf regen and codes.
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      06-28-2020, 05:20 AM   #7
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One more thing....

Make sure they are definitely using a C3/LL04 low ash oil, if it isn't the DPF and EGR will get shagged pretty quickly.

While in France no where had LL04/C3 and I had to put a litre of non low ash oil in, my car started to do a regen every other start!
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      07-01-2020, 04:14 PM   #8
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Cheers guys

Thermostat is fine, it gets to operating temperature no problem, though it can creep up to about 97 when I'm idle after driving, not sure if that normal or if my faulty aux water pump isn't helping either.

Oil is defiantly the correct ll04 spec.

My car regens frequent enough imo. Last one was today which was about 350km before previous one which was about 480km. Mine is weird though in the sense that it regens around town like it did today after me spending the earlier part of the day on the motorway.

Codes returned today after about 1000km if not more.

It's going in on Friday to have the EGR looked at, mechanic reckons I should delete it but I'm still undecided.

That stutter that I was feeling seems to have went away since I switched fuel brands to a more reputable brand so I'm wondering was it bad fuel causing it as well. So far so good though.

Regarding swirl flaps I am not pushed on removing them tbh. I've heard it can impact the performance of the car in low rpms. YouTuber George Austers removed his and end up having to but a whole new manifold later to have them back.
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      07-01-2020, 04:21 PM   #9
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It goes to 97ºc when it is trying to regen.
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      07-01-2020, 04:23 PM   #10
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I should add, my E61 530d would often try to regen in town. I am 9 miles from the city and by the time I got to the centre it would be trying to regen, and like you, sometimes I had been driving on the dual carrigeway for ages beforehand.


Sounds like it is regenning far too often.

Mine used to do that before I deleted the swirlfaps and repaced the EGR, oh, and also a new battery.

After that it would do a regen every 3 or 4 tanks or so, around 1500-2000 miles.
My MPG went from around 33/34 to 37/38 as well.

I didn't notice any change after deleting the flaps, the whole car just felt like it could breathe better.
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      07-03-2020, 03:03 PM   #11
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Got egr deleted today via ecu and new back pressure sensor. Will report back once I put more miles on it.
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      07-07-2020, 01:16 AM   #12
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as long as the egr is closed before deleting via software,if it was stuck open then the delete is useless,,
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      08-21-2020, 09:27 AM   #13
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Guys, all is good with my egr (or lack of) but recently my dpf has started doing regens nearly every 160 miles. Surely that is too excessive ?
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      08-21-2020, 09:47 AM   #14
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Yeah it is, and there will be a reason it is doing that.

Get your codes read.

Check thermostats first.
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      08-21-2020, 10:07 AM   #15
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No codes showing. Gets up to temperature fine. It's showing 46g ash mass on bimmer tool.
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      08-23-2020, 05:07 PM   #16
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Took it on a long drive today and yesterday and racked up over 520 miles and it done a regen 465 miles after the previous one. An improvement but then again I've spent the majority of that on the motorway.

I still feel it's not far off from being blocked up as I don't think it was doing regens at the time of purchase as the glow plug module wasn't working. God knows how long it wasn't regening before I got the module replaced.
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      08-24-2020, 02:53 AM   #17
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Have you definitely got the correct oil in the car?
Definitely a decent low ash oil?

I would buy 100ml of Archoil 6200 and stick that in the next 3 tanks and see how you get on as well.

What diesel are you using?
Consider running some Shell V Power for the next couple of tanks.
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      08-25-2020, 06:02 PM   #18
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Definitely, Bardahl C3 Ll04 spec is what my mechanic uses in mine and my other family members BMWs as well as is own 635d.

I'm in Ireland so we haven't had Shell fuel here for years . But I use Circle K fuel which would be considered the most reputable fuel here.

At the end of the day it's a 12 year old car with only 106k miles with most likely the original dpf. When I bought it at Christmas is had 99k on the clock so it's only done just over 8k miles per year on average which wouldn't do the dpf any favours I suppose.

It's now a case of how much longer can I get out of the dpf it would seem.

Last edited by 08-320d; 08-25-2020 at 06:10 PM..
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      08-25-2020, 06:18 PM   #19
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No, a dpf should be able to clear itself.

I would definitely consider getting some Archoil 6200 and running that over the next 5 tanks.

See how that does with the dpf.
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      08-31-2020, 04:34 PM   #20
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4d03 exhaust gas counter pressure sensor fault code has returned today, first time it's returned since I had the sensor replaced about 3k kms ago.

Assuming the sensor is not faulty what could be the cause here?
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      08-19-2021, 01:34 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08-320d View Post
4d03 exhaust gas counter pressure sensor fault code has returned today, first time it's returned since I had the sensor replaced about 3k kms ago.

Assuming the sensor is not faulty what could be the cause here?
Has someone solved this problem? Today I replaced this sensor, but this error still appear
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