[jadams161]

Originally Posted by Randyw89

Hey guys,

Brand new to The forum, and BMWÂ’s in general. Just picked up this 2009 335i and it has really rough cold starts,after itÂ’s warm it starts fine. Also when I try to give it much past 1/2 throttle it misfires and cuts power getting into boost. My thoughts originally were hpfp but based on the logs below, one is in the stage 2+ and the other is in stage 1+, could it be lpfp or something else? Similar results. Any help would be appreciated

https://datazap.me/u/randyw89/stage-...data=3-4-12-13

https://datazap.me/u/randyw89/stage-1?log=0&data=3-13

You need to read up on the N54. Its always maintenance before tune. You need to do plugs, coils, and all needed upgrades prior to any tuning. MHD will immediately expose any weak ignition parts, causing misfires.

[Randyw89]

Originally Posted by jadams161

You need to read up on the N54. Its always maintenance before tune. You need to do plugs, coils, and all needed upgrades prior to any tuning. MHD will immediately expose any weak ignition parts, causing misfires.

Hey Thanks for the reply, definitely about to do the coils and plugs. The car was already tuned from MHD, has all of the accompanying mods (fmic , charge pipe, down pipes etc) Of course it didn’t seem to have an issue while I was test driving but got it home from out of town and it sat a day and started having these issues. Under normal, warm driving it is great. So I decided to buy the MHD stuff to monitor etc since they don’t allow it to transfer. Just wondering if one of the fuel pump may be one of the culprits

[iqraceworks]

Like others have said... maintenance in number one on these cars. Change the oil and filter, service the transmission, install new plugs and coils, install a new serpentine belt, and fix any oil or coolant leaks........that will keep 95% of the common issues with these cars from giving you issues.

As far as rough cold starts.....your injector(s) are probably leaking. Read up on how to check your spark plugs to see while injectors are leaking....and replace them ASAP. Fuel in the oil can eat up your bearings.

All the not fun, boring, expensive stuff that really doesn't make your car any faster...or look better....really is where you need to spend your money first, or you are going to hate your "new to you" 335i. The majority of the issues people have with these cars all revolves around the fact that they don't keep up on maintenance. They are maintenance hogs....and require time and money to keep them running right. If you fart in the seat....it will throw a code and put the car into limp mode! Just kidding....sort of.

Good luck! This is a great place to learn about these cars 👍

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

Like others have said... maintenance in number one on these cars. Change the oil and filter, service the transmission, install new plugs and coils, install a new serpentine belt, and fix any oil or coolant leaks........that will keep 95% of the common issues with these cars from giving you issues.

As far as rough cold starts.....your injector(s) are probably leaking. Read up on how to check your spark plugs to see while injectors are leaking....and replace them ASAP. Fuel in the oil can eat up your bearings.

All the not fun, boring, expensive stuff that really doesn't make your car any faster...or look better....really is where you need to spend your money first, or you are going to hate your "new to you" 335i. The majority of the issues people have with these cars all revolves around the fact that they don't keep up on maintenance. They are maintenance hogs....and require time and money to keep them running right. If you fart in the seat....it will throw a code and put the car into limp mode! Just kidding....sort of.

Good luck! This is a great place to learn about these cars 👍

[vanyaaa]

m having cylinder 6 misfires on WOT at the very top of the rpm range. They are consistent if I do not shift in time and stay at redline. However, shifting at around 5.5-6k rpm or even letting sport shift usually means I will not get a misfire. No codes except 29D2.
Spark plugs and coils all changed (ordered just before misfire started and fitted after it started) and no change. Will pull the plug again and swap along with the coil to different cylinders but was thinking its something else?
Could anyone have a look at my log and let me know if theres anything that stands out.
Thanks

https://datazap.me/u/vanya/cyl-6-mis...og=0&data=3-21

[HB E90]

Im trying to verify that I have a HPFP problem. All of a sudden I'm getting long crank it starts but its very rough idle in fact it stalls. If I give it a little throttle it will rev normal sort of but as soon as I let off the gas it stumbles bad and stalls. Eventually it will throw codes 29F2 and 2B2C (HPFP faults) .
Please check this log on startup. What should rail pressure be at idle? https://datazap.me/u/curt/lpfp-issue?log=0&data=3-20-21

BTW the HPFP has only 33k mi on it? Was replaced by previous owner at 51K by the dealer under warranty in 2015 Car has 84k now? WTH * Also after going through this it smells like like too much fuel and unburnt fuel in the garage

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by HB E90

Im trying to verify that I have a HPFP problem. All of a sudden I'm getting long crank it starts but its very rough idle in fact it stalls. If I give it a little throttle it will rev normal sort of but as soon as I let off the gas it stumbles bad and stalls. Eventually it will throw codes 29F2 and 2B2C (HPFP faults) .
Please check this log on startup. What should rail pressure be at idle? https://datazap.me/u/curt/lpfp-issue?log=0&data=3-20-21

BTW the HPFP has only 33k mi on it? Was replaced by previous owner at 51K by the dealer under warranty in 2015 Car has 84k now? WTH * Also after going through this it smells like like too much fuel and unburnt fuel in the garage

Idle HPFP should be around 700psi give or take.

Have a read through this thread...

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1149445

Also might be worth replacing LPFP sensor, LPFP looks like it's stuck,

[HB E90]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Idle HPFP should be around 700psi give or take.

Have a read through this thread...

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1149445

Also might be worth replacing LPFP sensor, LPFP looks like it's stuck,

Rail pressure on my last log is 65 to 75psi. Have a look. https://datazap.me/u/curt/lpfp-issue...-3-16-17-20-21
Please look at the other parameters and see if you see something.

I had the fuel smell in the garage a while back and it was the regulator or sending unit (Dr side). Replaced that 3 months ago and its been fine. So no more smell if its just sitting just nasty smell after starting it and its got full cats / stock exhaust. Please refer to my last post. Thanks

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by HB E90

Rail pressure on my last log is 65 to 75psi. Have a look. https://datazap.me/u/curt/lpfp-issue...-3-16-17-20-21
Please look at the other parameters and see if you see something.

I had the fuel smell in the garage a while back and it was the regulator or sending unit (Dr side). Replaced that 3 months ago and its been fine. So no more smell if its just sitting just nasty smell after starting it and its got full cats / stock exhaust. Please refer to my last post. Thanks

Both LPFP and HPFP don't go up with rpm, LPFP psi is ok but HPFP has completely tanked. Looks like HPFP on it's way out to me, although HPFP failure usually occurs gradually, I'm not sure if your issue is some sensor related,

Someone can correct me but if I'm not mistaken, some smell from exhaust whilst cats warm up is normal.

[turbohugh]

Happy Sunday everyone,

I'm still waiting to hear back from my tuner, however I'm having an issue .

Didn't seem to have issues at the local track .. ran an 11.8 @ 122mph .. I know I know not fast. But I was on street tires, rwd, no boosting launches or anything dramatic, tools in the trunk and full interior so I was happy as this was a personal best for this car.

https://datazap.me/u/turbohugh/e-85f...-30&zoom=48-83

My tuner first observed these strange WGDC spikes from these logs

https://datazap.me/u/turbohugh/e85ff...0&data=3-23-29

Then I replaced the boost solenoids and this is the log. No spikes but flatlines.

https://datazap.me/u/turbohugh/plug-...0&data=3-22-25

Tuner thinks I could have an issue with the wastegate either not functioning correctly or 'sticking' . The characteristics seems to have changed recently. Not sure where to start as I'm not getting any codes. I did have a #6 misfire recently, however I pulled the plug and it was gapped too short, so I opened it to what it was supposed to be .022 Now no misfires however I'm seeing strange throttle and wgdc behavior.

I'm hesitate to revert to the previous revision, but as a teachable / learning moment I'd like to have more eyes on the logs so I can ask intelligent questions when I speak to my tuner.


Hardware
* 17ts [I know I know]
* BMP Full PI with Motiv Reflex
* B58 coils with +2 colder NGK gapped to .022
* Pumps and HPFP are all new.
Awaiting my 'custom' fuel pressure regulator to hopefully stop the porpoising / oscillations of my LPFP.

Thanks in advance for any input.

All the Best,

Oh, and feel free to look at any of the logs I try to keep notes and logs of all the mechanical changes.

Hugh

[Saif2018]

Log WGDC bank 1

[turbohugh]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Log WGDC bank 1

https://datazap.me/u/turbohugh/testi...20-27-28-29-30

OK
* Logging WGDC 1,2,base,pid
* flashed the previous revision [1.5]
* Logged to 6k

Conditions were a bit wet so I didn't get a full log . This is really strange .. I think I may run a smoke test tomorrow if I cant find something obvious with the hardware.

Thanks again for anyone taking a look at this .

All the best,

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by turbohugh

https://datazap.me/u/turbohugh/testi...20-27-28-29-30

OK
* Logging WGDC 1,2,base,pid
* flashed the previous revision [1.5]
* Logged to 6k

Conditions were a bit wet so I didn't get a full log . This is really strange .. I think I may run a smoke test tomorrow if I cant find something obvious with the hardware.

Thanks again for anyone taking a look at this .

All the best,

I understand the 17t will have some turbo lag but that log Looks like huge turbo lag between 2700 rpm and 4300 rpm, plus the WGDC falls off a cliff before boost even reaches target. Looks like a problem with the wastegates on the turbos, have you got any rattle?

[clopez976]

Hello Guys,

Its been a while since i last posted my last log , Since then ive done many updrades the last was last friday had new upgraded turbos 17ts 11 blades installed along with replacing all 02 sensors,inlets,outlets,boost solionds,new valve cover,new coils , step 2 colder plugs.

one thing i do notice is the spool sound is louder then when oem turbo is this expected?

Here is a log the tuner had asked me to check some boxes to send logs so if its not what you need to view my logs properly let me know which parimerts to select,
Current mods are FBO With Upgraded Turbos.
Alot of maintenice parts have been replaced.

https://datazap.me/u/carlos-lopez/lo...=1&data=3-6-18

Thank You !

[turbohugh]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

I understand the 17t will have some turbo lag but that log Looks like huge turbo lag between 2700 rpm and 4300 rpm, plus the WGDC falls off a cliff before boost even reaches target. Looks like a problem with the wastegates on the turbos, have you got any rattle?

Update :
-- basically I have sticking wastegates. If I drive the car easy, it seems to work fine, but heat these little babies up and the flapper is 'sticking' , fighting the actuator.

;Tl-Dr;


* corrected a repair-induced error when I replaced [likely working] boost solenoids and misrouted the hoses. [the flat line logs]
* correct vacuum lines and new boost solenoids returned 1 good log, and then spikey logs.

My tech and my tuner agree this 'could' be sticking wastegates.
Logs seem consistent with that idea. First run seemed almost ok , then the hotter the turbos got the worst the 'sticking' seemed to get.

* Logs for the curious

https://datazap.me/u/turbohugh/e85ff...og=0&data=3-20

I will be talking to my tech to install a set of vsrf catless downpipes [and that will be an opportunity to inspect the wastegates inside and remove the catted coBB downpipes.] A friend speculated my boost level + catted cobb downpipes might be creating backpressure. I don't know but I was gifted downpipes and I have to look at the actuators and wastegates anyway. I'm not really sure what to do. I may try some anti-seize or see if there's a bushing or something that's pressed in. The 17'ts may be finished.

Thanks for all the help and sorry for the verbose responses.

All the best,

Hugh

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by turbohugh

Update :
-- basically I have sticking wastegates. If I drive the car easy, it seems to work fine, but heat these little babies up and the flapper is 'sticking' , fighting the actuator.

;Tl-Dr;


* corrected a repair-induced error when I replaced [likely working] boost solenoids and misrouted the hoses. [the flat line logs]
* correct vacuum lines and new boost solenoids returned 1 good log, and then spikey logs.

My tech and my tuner agree this 'could' be sticking wastegates.
Logs seem consistent with that idea. First run seemed almost ok , then the hotter the turbos got the worst the 'sticking' seemed to get.

* Logs for the curious

https://datazap.me/u/turbohugh/e85ff...og=0&data=3-20

I will be talking to my tech to install a set of vsrf catless downpipes [and that will be an opportunity to inspect the wastegates inside and remove the catted coBB downpipes.] A friend speculated my boost level + catted cobb downpipes might be creating backpressure. I don't know but I was gifted downpipes and I have to look at the actuators and wastegates anyway. I'm not really sure what to do. I may try some anti-seize or see if there's a bushing or something that's pressed in. The 17'ts may be finished.

Thanks for all the help and sorry for the verbose responses.

All the best,

Hugh

Hope it doesn't cost you a arm and a leg to fix

are these the 17t Chinesium turbos?

[jadams161]

I changed out my LPFP over the weekend and flashed a new tune revision. Went for a drive and car seemed ok. I did a pull for a log and got a misfire cyl 6 under load at about 6000 rpm. I took the car out the next day after swapping #1 coil with #6. MHD showed a cyl 6 misfire but no CEL light on dash. I did not even feel it while driving...?? Drove car today and did this log. No codes stored. So not sure if was just related to the new LPFP swap and DME adjusting trims or if I have an issue with the tune revision.
Thanks for the help guys!
https://datazap.me/u/jmadams/log-165...og=0&data=3-21

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by jadams161

I changed out my LPFP over the weekend and flashed a new tune revision. Went for a drive and car seemed ok. I did a pull for a log and got a misfire cyl 6 under load at about 6000 rpm. I took the car out the next day after swapping #1 coil with #6. MHD showed a cyl 6 misfire but no CEL light on dash. I did not even feel it while driving...?? Drove car today and did this log. No codes stored. So not sure if was just related to the new LPFP swap and DME adjusting trims or if I have an issue with the tune revision.
Thanks for the help guys!
https://datazap.me/u/jmadams/log-165...og=0&data=3-21

Can't see any misfire on this log, would expect timing to go crazy with misfire.

It was probably a shadow code from previous misfire, did you clear codes?

[jadams161]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Can't see any misfire on this log, would expect timing to go crazy with misfire.

It was probably a shadow code from previous misfire, did you clear codes?

This log may show the misfire. Right as I shift to 4th gear AFR bank 2 goes bad and timing corrections cyl 6. CEL light came on after pull. Codes were cleared after I swapped the coils.

https://datazap.me/u/jmadams/v4?log=0&data=3-21

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by jadams161

This log may show the misfire. Right as I shift to 4th gear AFR bank 2 goes bad and timing corrections cyl 6. CEL light came on after pull. Codes were cleared after I swapped the coils.

https://datazap.me/u/jmadams/v4?log=0&data=3-21

I see what you mean about AFR going nuts but 3.3 degrees isn't a big correction

If it's still misfiring on cylinder 6, Could be the infamous cylinder 6 misfire Vehicular DIY was on about, (Injector related)

[jadams161]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

I see what you mean about AFR going nuts but 3.3 degrees isn't a big correction

If it's still misfiring on cylinder 6, Could be the infamous cylinder 6 misfire Vehicular DIY was on about, (Injector related)

I suppose anything is possible. Injectors were new in 2020 or 2021..new seals and decouplers. Everything was fine until I did LPFP and flashed V4 tune revision. I may flash V3 for now and see if issue persists. Waiting to hear back from Wedge.

[turbohugh]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Hope it doesn't cost you a arm and a leg to fix

are these the 17t Chinesium turbos?

DAW chinesium 17t's . I was gifted them about 3 years ago but have been running them for about 2 years. They were fine for a long time, but I've been abusing them a little the past year; no-prep drag racing at the track here in Crofton Md while running 21psi may be too much yeet for them . At this point I'm leaning more towards repairing the wastegate bushing if I can find a high quality bushing kit, or the DocRace V2 kit. Just keep throwing $$ at it I guess .