[Navykiller]

3100 Low Boost Mode Engaged -- CEL displayed
2AA0 Camshaft sensor inlet, signal

Just got done doing a RB 2 Plus turbo install, along with clutch, flywheel, walnut blast, inlets, and a few other maintenance items. We pulled the engine to make everything easier on us. We just put everything back in, BEF to RACE MAP IJEOS HYBRID. Cleared the codes and these two showed up. Car misfires then dies out within a minute or so. What should I start checking?

RB 2 Plus Turbos
Spec 3+ Clutch SMFW Steel
5 in stepped ARM IC
Meth (going to break in clutch before spraying)
RB INlets
BMS charge pipe with Raceport + Tapped manifold
2 Stage colder plus gapped to .020
Walnut blasted at the same time
Stage 2 LPFP
Oil Pan Gasket too

Might be forgetting some things, but all maintenance / leaks were done prior to the turbos. Any help is appreciated to point us in the right direction

[Navykiller]

Update,
Plugged in the sensors again and the codes became saved codes on jb4.

I have saved codes not showing that are
29D1 Misfire cyl 5
29CF Misfire Cyl 3
29CC Misfire Several Cyls.

Brand new plugs gapped at .020 were installed, coils were installed 2 years ago. Car idles very rough and dies out. You can pretty much tell the obvious misfires. Will swap coils / plugs and see if it jumps cylinders. If so theres my answer, if not I have no idea

[Spyro235]

Could be mosfets? That would be my next test idea.

regarding the clutch, here's my unpopular opinion: Just drive the car normally. I did the clutch on my drift car with a normal, oe style off brand clutch... it's lasted drift 5 seasons and 25k mile of street use. Some laps around certain tracks I'll kick the clutch over 20 times. Broke it in with a burnout before driving to my first event. Clutches are good to go from the factory unless there's special instructions on a specialized race clutch, like twin disc/ slipper clutches.

[Navykiller]

New update. We switched out sparkplugs and coils and it did jump 1 of the cylinders but not the other. Im having a hard time believing that Im looking at this misfire the correct way. Its misfiring from the inside, its hard to explain. It "feels" like the timing isnt right.

MHD New Codes are 2FCA Fuel High Pressure (Just replaced sensor yesterday with a bmw oem one)
2FDA Crankshaft sensor Missing
2FDB Crankshaft sensor Not plausible

JB4 Saved codes is just coming up as a cylinder 3 misfire

Seems like is should be easy, but right now its like finding a bug in a program. Solve 1 and 2 more appear. The car is barely running. It will start and stall within a few seconds, or wont really start. When going to the car overnight, the car takes a long time to crank. After the first start, crank times go down to normal.


Just ordered a new crankshaft sensor, hopefully thats it.
Already flashed the car as previously stated, and switched the jb4 setting on the n20 sensor to (1) / the 3.5 one.

Any help is appreciated TIA

[Navykiller]

Originally Posted by Spyro235

Could be mosfets? That would be my next test idea.

regarding the clutch, here's my unpopular opinion: Just drive the car normally. I did the clutch on my drift car with a normal, oe style off brand clutch

Since I would like to take 0 chances on a clutch, and dont want slippage on a daily with some power, I rather play it safe. Its fine anyway, I would honestly be driving *Very* reserved thanks to the stuff I got done to the car.
(usually I drive grandma style for like a week or so after any major mod, always terrified if something goes wrong that I wont just spin out or something at 60mph)

Thanks for the input though!

[Navykiller]

Anybody thinks the EKPM could be at fault here?
This is a 2011 335is, so I think its the EKPM3

[Navykiller]

See datazap attached log. This was an idle log

https://datazap.me/u/navykiller/6232...25-26-27-28-29

[Navykiller]

Update.
We switched out the high pressure fuel sensor and that cleared up some codes. Then I kept gettting some random misfire codes, but a constant 3100, 2ABC. Was given another 3.5tmap sensor, replaced the low pressure sensor and coils with eldor. Tmap when in the next day (today). Pre Tmap, the car would idle fine but also wouldnt. Sometimes the idle would just stumble and die out, or would hesitate and die out if gas was pressed down.

Once the sensor was changed, idles fine, no stumble. Will be driving the car later tonight and will report back.

[Navykiller]

Update, probably final
Car is running like a dream. Drove it home.
I have found out how the Sepc 3+ drives lol. Its not a clutch that I will keep in gear with the pedal pressed in, thats for sure. Heard it breaks in and gets a bit less springy. Guess only time with tell, 006 miles / 500 miles