[CameroN7887]

So lately I've been experiencing a big loss in power but it's been intermittent up until about a week or two ago. Some days I'd touch the pedal barely and it would get up and go easily, and other days it took a lot more gas to get the car to accelerate how it did before. Now recently it has been idling rough, giving me more vibrations in the cabin than I'm used to. The acceleration feels sluggish and like it doesn't pull as hard as it used to high up in the rpms past about 4K. Looking at the repair history the camshaft position sensor got replaced around 25k miles ago, and as far as I know spark plugs and coils haven't been done yet, and I'm bouncing back and forth between spark plugs/coil packs and maybe a problem with the VANOS somewhere? Any help would be greatly appreciated guys!

[JuniorB]

Here's a thought, I'm doing an upgraded 340 lpfp in my e60, this is difficult from the e90, but what I found is the filter. When I pulled my filter, clear fuel had come out when I pulled it out of the tank, when I brought it to the bench, and blew in, a lot of black crap came out. So I ordered a new one, Bosch fuel filter for $80, well worth it. I found this to be original with the fuel filter, I've never had a fuel issue, power, or mis, I'm doing the upgrade for my motor swap, but found out that, these should be definitely changed at least every 30k. I never thought this would be a lifetime filter.

[CameroN7887]

I just changed the spark plugs and ignition coils today and for my first time doing that alone on any car it went great, you can barely feel the car idling now which is nice. Seems to run quieter now and everything is a lot smoother! An Indy shop wanted me to do a software update a few weeks back when I went in for a diagnostic so I might go grab that update from them soon
He also wanted to relearn the valvetronic positions and I told him that's what I use ISTA for and he proceeded to crucify me for using such an inferior program

[CameroN7887]

I did find oil on my 4th cylinders spark plug so guess it's also time for a VCG and new valve cover!

[JuniorB]

Hopefully it's get sorted out, these n52 are great cars and require minimal upkeep,,unlike the n54. This engine feels great with a fresh maintance.

[CameroN7887]

Originally Posted by JuniorB

Hopefully it's get sorted out, these n52 are great cars and require minimal upkeep,,unlike the n54. This engine feels great with a fresh maintance.

I agree these engines are awesome when running well but seems like mine hasn't been able to run since I first got it unfortunately, after driving to work with the new coils and plugs it feels like all my power is gone, and the car is SO slow to rev when I give it some gas, gonna shoot for VANOS solenoids next and clean those to see if anything gets better

[6ixSpd]

Step 1) Scan the car for codes. Don't throw parts at it without having an idea of where the problem lies...

[CameroN7887]

Originally Posted by 6ixSpd

Step 1) Scan the car for codes. Don't throw parts at it without having an idea of where the problem lies...

I've scanned the car multiple times using ISTA with no codes coming up besides a code for an AUC sensor which is for the automatic air quality circulation function as far as I'm concerned, but nothing relating to a misfire or something the car is noticing is wrong. As I was driving home tonight the car was running good with a normal idle and felt very smooth, so I got on an onramp and floored it, got up to about 90 mph, slowed back down and got off the highway about 10 seconds later and stopped at the light and sure as hell the lumpy idle is back, almost like it's misfiring but not giving me any codes, i can feel the engine vibrating much more than usual with the occasional hiccup I guess you could call it, but with no codes. PITA I swear hahaha

[Saico]

If this happens try forcing the car into limp mode by e.g. disconnecting MAF sensor.
Then if the cars runs ok, that means it is not a spark nor fuel issue but a air supply one.

[CameroN7887]

Originally Posted by Saico

If this happens try forcing the car into limp mode by e.g. disconnecting MAF sensor.
Then if the cars runs ok, that means it is not a spark nor fuel issue but a air supply one.

That sounds good I will definitely try that. If it runs okay what could be the possible causes?

[Saico]

Then it can be anything that supplies air or alters its supply - MAF, throtle body, air leak, VANOS, camshaft, camshaft chain... or something with mixture control - lambdas, etc.

[CameroN7887]

Awesome, I will try that soon. The other day I noticed I was 3/4 full when I checked my oil on the onboard computer, then a few days later after flooring it on a backroad and checking after just because I was curious, I was at 1/2 so I'm burning oil or leaking oil but as far as I know I have no oil leak. I occasionally have a light almost whistling sound or a vacuum leak sound from the engine bay on the valve cover side so I'm assuming it could be the pcv valve in the valve cover is blown, as it might explain me going through half a quart of oil 4K miles into a fresh oil change? I'm hoping it's the pcv valve as that's a cheap-ish repair, but seems challenging as I just did my spark plugs for the first time the other day would unplugging the maf and the car running fine allow the pcv to be a possibility?

[CameroN7887]

Another note, when the car is idling in park or drive the exhaust seems to tingle and give the little tapping sounds like when you turn a car off, but it happens when it's idling, not sure if that helps but I figured I should throw that in there!

[CameroN7887]

Just to keep the thread updated, I cleaned my VANOS solenoids yesterday and it seemed to clean up my idle more and the tingling while idling in drive seemed to go away, thank you all for your help!

[ninjamoby]

This sounds similar to what I experienced when I had to repair the electric water pump. Vanos was changed several times before (by previous owner) and it was only when we got to water pump that the problem stopped overall.

[Doesha]

Originally Posted by CameroN7887

Just to keep the thread updated, I cleaned my VANOS solenoids yesterday and it seemed to clean up my idle more and the tingling while idling in drive seemed to go away, thank you all for your help!

Did you ever go for the software update? I did plugs and one coil like 7 months ago helped a bit on a smother idle. When I swapped in a new radiator and hoses. I cleaned the vanos with maf cleaner and swaped them around as-well as doing an oil change. This helped a bit. Put in a new air filter then saaid f*** it since I got an intake for dirt cheap. The intake gave me a teeny bit of power in the 4 to 6500k rpm range. Also better mpg. I reset my adaptions drove it for probably 1500 miles which helped then did a software update and she felt different in a good way. First time I did adaptions I was kinda worried cus I had no clue and it felt like someone molested her lmao. So point being go for the software update. I did it myself in winkfp with a regular kcan kdcan cable which people swear not to use but it only took like 3 minutes or less can't remember.

[CameroN7887]

Originally Posted by ninjamoby

This sounds similar to what I experienced when I had to repair the electric water pump. Vanos was changed several times before (by previous owner) and it was only when we got to water pump that the problem stopped overall.

God I hope it's not the water pump haha what was happening with you when you had your pump replaced?

[CameroN7887]

Originally Posted by Doesha

Did you ever go for the software update? I did plugs and one coil like 7 months ago helped a bit on a smother idle. When I swapped in a new radiator and hoses. I cleaned the vanos with maf cleaner and swaped them around as-well as doing an oil change. This helped a bit. Put in a new air filter then saaid f*** it since I got an intake for dirt cheap. The intake gave me a teeny bit of power in the 4 to 6500k rpm range. Also better mpg. I reset my adaptions drove it for probably 1500 miles which helped then did a software update and she felt different in a good way. First time I did adaptions I was kinda worried cus I had no clue and it felt like someone molested her lmao. So point being go for the software update. I did it myself in winkfp with a regular kcan kdcan cable which people swear not to use but it only took like 3 minutes or less can't remember.

I did the same thing I changed all my plugs and coils and it helped a little bit, cleaned my Vanos solenoids and it helped a little more, I have a k+dcan cable I think? I used it to reset my valvetronic limit positions on ISTA a few months ago so I could probably do it but don't know how, if you don't mind pointing me in the right direction that would be awesome! One Indy shop by my house wanted something like $150 to reset my valvetronic positions and do a software update and I told them to screw off, I'll do it myself and he started bagging on ista like crazy hahaha

[JuniorB]

The down fall of this engine, is throttle lag. Although some hate, I got the BMS's n52 piggyback, the throttle is right were it should be. A kn drop in, and of course the 330 upgrade kit, makes this a fun, maintenance free ride.

[CameroN7887]

Originally Posted by JuniorB

The down fall of this engine, is throttle lag. Although some hate, I got the BMS's n52 piggyback, the throttle is right were it should be. A kn drop in, and of course the 330 upgrade kit, makes this a fun, maintenance free ride.

The BMS Powerbox? I'd love to do something like that but wiring on any car I daily drive scares me, although the throttle response would be awesome to finally be like a normal car

[Doesha]

Originally Posted by CameroN7887

I did the same thing I changed all my plugs and coils and it helped a little bit, cleaned my Vanos solenoids and it helped a little more, I have a k+dcan cable I think? I used it to reset my valvetronic limit positions on ISTA a few months ago so I could probably do it but don't know how, if you don't mind pointing me in the right direction that would be awesome! One Indy shop by my house wanted something like $150 to reset my valvetronic positions and do a software update and I told them to screw off, I'll do it myself and he started bagging on ista like crazy hahaha

Yeah I'd buy a cheap laptop and a cable to do it myself and still have money for some lunch for $150. Same time though, if something goes wrong it's on them so $150.00 isn't a bad price if you think of it like that. I was comfortable doing it myself and took little to no time.

[CameroN7887]

Originally Posted by Doesha

Yeah I'd buy a cheap laptop and a cable to do it myself and still have money for some lunch for $150. Same time though, if something goes wrong it's on them so $150.00 isn't a bad price if you think of it like that. I was comfortable doing it myself and took little to no time.

If it's easy to do I'll gladly do it myself and save the money, why pay some clown to do it when I can do it myself and have peace of mind it was done right.