[igzekyativ]

Originally Posted by frenchi

Reset on TC can be done only with ista/d or rheingold..wich soft you have on your laptop ?

I have INPA, NCS-Expert, Tool32 and WinKFP

[igzekyativ]

new motor should arrive today

trying to find someone to help me/show me how to code/reset the transfer case (see this thread - http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...4#post19529564)

[igzekyativ]

installed the new transfer case actuator motor. did not resolve the issue. car still shudders just as it did before.

SERIOUSLY, WTF IS GOING ON.

key issues:
-happens at all speeds
-happens in any gear
-happens between 1200-2300 RPM only
-happens only under light throttle/load and mostly in stop and go traffic
-only happens after the car has warmed up

What it's not:
-not the transfer case actuator motor, replaced it
-not the coils, replaced all 6
-not the spark plugs, replaced all 6
-not guibos or center bearing, replaced all 3
-not the transfer case oil, replaced the fluid (and fixed a leak from the o-ring behind the c-clip)
-not the eccentric shaft sensor, replaced it already
-it's not software, BMW updated my entire cars software
-it's not in the front drivetrain as I removed the front driveshaft and the issue persisted
-i don't think its the VANOS, as I took them out and swapped the intake and exhaust side and it had no effect

I read here (http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...9&postcount=11) that some of the transmission/torque converters had issues in a specific serial number range but the range was not provided. can anyone expand on this? did BMW replace them? i presume that since I am out of warranty, bmw would not be replacing my torque converter or transmission due to this issue, right?

"There was a problem with certain e90's that had bad torque converters based on a serial number. But I have not done this in a while and having trouble remembering the procedure. but the range was from 1700-2500 rpm I believe. We were suppsoed to replace the TC and if it still did it to replace the transmission, but if it was a different serial number there was a specific trans fluid that was supposed to go in.... We have a flow chart we use to condemn them. Depends on a certain serial number if it will get a certain fluid, torque converter or anything at all. But this is toward the end of the diagnostics. It still could be numerous other things."

[blown07]

I know I asked this question before but I will ask again. If you had the front drive shaft off and you still had the shudder than why replace the transfer case motor? Your response was the rear drive shaft goes through the transfer case....true but the rear driveshaft has a direct connection to the transmission and has nothing to do with the transfer case motor when the front drive shaft is removed. The transfer case motor only determines how much torque is applied to the front wheels through a wet clutch. If the front driveshaft is removed then there is zero load on the transfer case front output shaft.....unless there is a serious bearing problem in the xfer case. The amount of torque is determined by the VTG module and must be reset when changing oil or motor actuator due to the Resistor class. The only software I know and have used to do this is the DIS software. I would say the problem is you have never reset the transfer case properly but you had the front drive shaft off so I'm not sure.

Did removing the front drive shaft reduce the shudder at all?

[igzekyativ]

Originally Posted by blown07

I know I asked this question before but I will ask again. If you had the front drive shaft off and you still had the shudder than why replace the transfer case motor? Your response was the rear drive shaft goes through the transfer case....true but the rear driveshaft has a direct connection to the transmission and has nothing to do with the transfer case motor when the front drive shaft is removed. The transfer case motor only determines how much torque is applied to the front wheels through a wet clutch. If the front driveshaft is removed then there is zero load on the transfer case front output shaft.....unless there is a serious bearing problem in the xfer case. The amount of torque is determined by the VTG module and must be reset when changing oil or motor actuator due to the Resistor class. The only software I know and have used to do this is the DIS software. I would say the problem is you have never reset the transfer case properly but you had the front drive shaft off so I'm not sure.

Did removing the front drive shaft reduce the shudder at all?

removing the front driveshaft had no impact on the shudder.

i unplugged the transfer case actuator motor and perceived a 80-90% reduction in shudder, so I thought the motor needed to be replaced.

I started another thread looking for assitance with the transfer case reset, which I still need to do for the new motor (http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1234873). "To access it in INPA, go to E90 -> Transmission -> Gearbox / DXC VGSG. You should be able to default code it with NCS-Expert and calibrate it with INPA. Hope that helps, good luck."

I am brand new to coding, so a bit weary. Not really sure how to "default code it with NCS-Expert" or "calibrate it with INPA"

[blown07]

Originally Posted by igzekyativ

removing the front driveshaft had no impact on the shudder.

i unplugged the transfer case actuator motor and perceived a 80-90% reduction in shudder, so I thought the motor needed to be replaced.

I started another thread looking for assitance with the transfer case reset, which I still need to do for the new motor (http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1234873). "To access it in INPA, go to E90 -> Transmission -> Gearbox / DXC VGSG. You should be able to default code it with NCS-Expert and calibrate it with INPA. Hope that helps, good luck."

I am brand new to coding, so a bit weary. Not really sure how to "default code it with NCS-Expert" or "calibrate it with INPA"

I heard you cannot use INPA in any way to do this so I had to setup DIS V57 on my laptop which took several days.
If you stop and think how the transfer case works then what you're saying concerns me about the internals of your transfer case. Without the front drive shaft on you should not feel anything regardless of where the motor actuator is because the TC is not transmitting any torque other than turning the internal TC gears which shouldn't amount to anything at low speeds. What codes are you getting again?

[igzekyativ]

Originally Posted by igzekyativ

I read here (http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...9&postcount=11) that some of the transmission/torque converters had issues in a specific serial number range but the range was not provided. can anyone expand on this? did BMW replace them? i presume that since I am out of warranty, bmw would not be replacing my torque converter or transmission due to this issue, right?

"There was a problem with certain e90's that had bad torque converters based on a serial number. But I have not done this in a while and having trouble remembering the procedure. but the range was from 1700-2500 rpm I believe. We were suppsoed to replace the TC and if it still did it to replace the transmission, but if it was a different serial number there was a specific trans fluid that was supposed to go in.... We have a flow chart we use to condemn them. Depends on a certain serial number if it will get a certain fluid, torque converter or anything at all. But this is toward the end of the diagnostics. It still could be numerous other things."

Originally Posted by blown07

I heard you cannot use INPA in any way to do this so I had to setup DIS V57 on my laptop which took several days.
If you stop and think how the transfer case works then what you're saying concerns me about the internals of your transfer case. Without the front drive shaft on you should not feel anything regardless of where the motor actuator is because the TC is not transmitting any torque other than turning the internal TC gears which shouldn't amount to anything at low speeds. What codes are you getting again?

I am not getting any codes. Do you think my statement above applies? is it the torque converter?

Speaking of transmission, and not related to this.. I am getting a slight bump shortly after the vehicle comes to a stop. BMW put out this notice, but mine feels more like rough downshift from 2nd to 1st after coming to a stop and the transmission is not fully warmed up...

"-This Service Information bulletin supersedes SI B24 06 06 dated August 2006.
designates changes to this revision
SUBJECT
A Slight Bump is Felt Shortly after the Vehicle Comes to a Stop
MODEL
E85 3.0 and 3.0si with the GA6HP19Z transmission produced up to 07/2006
E90, E91 All with the GA6HP19Z transmission produced up to 09/2006 (my car is 11/06 though with the GA6L45R transmission I believe)
SITUATION
A slight one-time bump is felt shortly after the vehicle comes to a stop.
CAUSE
This is due to the design concept of "NIC", or Neutral Idle Control. This gearbox feature uncouples the torque converter whenever the vehicle is stationary, gearbox oil temperature is between 20°C and 120°C, and the brakes are applied. By disconnecting the torque converter the load on the engine is reduced to a minimum. Please explain this feature and its operation to the customer.
CORRECTION
For the E85, revised EGS software is available with Progman 23.0 or higher.
For the E90, E91 revised EGS software is expected in a future release of Progman. Until that time, on a customer complaint basis only, this feature can be deactivated as described in the procedure below.
PROCEDURE
E85 – On a customer complaint basis only, reprogram the EGS module with Progman 23.0 or higher. It is not possible to deactivate this feature using the retrofit option on the E85.
E90, E91 - On a customer complaint basis only, perform the Retrofit - "Converter lockup clutch" using Progman 23.0 (Target Data status: E89x-06-09-520) or higher. Follow the "Retrofit" procedures as outlined in SI B09 05 01.
WARRANTY
For the appropriate defect code and labor operations please refer to the KSD system.
[ Copyright © 2006 BMW of North America, LLC ]

[igzekyativ]

here is another idea from a different thread (http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...3#post19568013)....

Originally Posted by 07lilredwagon

I have been dealing with a "juddering" torque coverter in my 07 E91....From what i have heard, and am experiencing, it is the GM transmissions (automatics) that have this problem....

(I too thought at first it was a coil, Vanos issue, fuel delivery problem, ect, ect.... and was chasing ghosts until I came across a few posts about the GM Torque converters )

My problems have been "cured" with snake oil, but its really good snake oil.
look up Judder fix by lube guard. it will not void any warranty and I have spoken to BMW approved transmission shops that add lube guard products with every rebuild.

I drained the transmission twice, with filter replacements each time. I added the Lube Guard after the second drain. The whole service procedure is a bit of a pain without a lift but is doable. It has been just about 6 months since the second treatment ( with a 1 year interval after the first treatment before symptoms began coming back) and so far so good.

I tell, ya, you can go from really hating the car to loving it again in 1 day or less if this is your issue. depending on your mileage, it wont hurt to service your transmission anyway.

If the TC is your problem, it is awfully expensive to replace. the problem does get worse and the juddering becomes worrisome. the Lubeguard did the trick for me.

a side note is that I had only thought to try this as a temporary solution until I could afford to replace the TC....but the results have been way beyond my expectations...so Im still running with the Lubeguard additive......

good luck with it!

JP

PS 155,000 miles on the car

should I perform a transmission fluid and filter change and add the lubegaurd (http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-230/Instant+Shudder+Fixx or http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-112/LUBE...uid+Protectant) next? or is that another $250 down the drain?


Here is some info from the lubegaurd website on shudder -

Torque converter shudder is starting to be a problem especially when going up hills, what can I do?
LUBEGARD ATF Protectants & Supplements restore low speed frictional properties to old or deficient ATF to prevent torque converter shudder.

What causes the transmission to shudder or shake when it shifts?
Shudders are caused by frictionally depleted fluid. This condition is called “stick slip”, & its felt when clutches don’t slide smoothly when coming to a stop. It’s considered a low speed friction problem.

[igzekyativ]

Ok took it to a 3rd shop. An indy that my buddy works at. There is a tech there that is very familiar with the GM transmission that is in my car (worked at a Cadillac dealership). They were able to replicate my issue.

They found a service information bulletin that was a flow chart and basically said that I could try the Lubegard Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx, and if that didn't work, I will need to replace the torque converter, and if that doesn't work, replace the whole transmission.



So, I am going to give the lubegard a shot and see what happens. Fingers crossed...

Anyone familiar with the lubegard, can I just add it to my current (old) fluid and see what happens? or do I HAVE to do a transmission fluid and filter change and add the lubegard to the new fluid? I was thinking for $6, add the lubegard to my old fluid and if there is any change, go ahead and do a trans fluid and filter change and add another bottle of the lubegard instant fix as well as the lubegard long term fix.

If I do have to replace the torque converter, I was thinking I would just go ahead and replace the whole transmission. What I would really like to do is upgrade it if possible. I plan to put the ESS supercharger on the car and think it would be great to upgrade the transmission since I potentially have to do this anyways.

My buddy said I should swap over to a manual transmission, and I kinda agree as I would probably get more money for the car if I ever went to sell it, but part of the reason I got this car was that I hated driving my manual to and from work in the traffic that I sit in for an hour each way; it is terrible.

Anyone know what options I would have for upgrading the transmission with another auto? DCT? I would hope to find a donor car with low miles or something, but who knows.

started a thread looking for tranny options here - http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...6#post19627376

[e90ftw]

Originally Posted by igzekyativ

Ok took it to a 3rd shop. An indy that my buddy works at. There is a tech there that is very familiar with the GM transmission that is in my car (worked at a Cadillac dealership). They were able to replicate my issue.

They found a service information bulletin that was a flow chart and basically said that I could try the Lubegard Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx, and if that didn't work, I will need to replace the torque converter, and if that doesn't work, replace the whole transmission.

So, I am going to give the lubegard a shot and see what happens. Fingers crossed...

Anyone familiar with the lubegard, can I just add it to my current (old) fluid and see what happens? or do I HAVE to do a transmission fluid and filter change and add the lubegard to the new fluid? I was thinking for $6, add the lubegard to my old fluid and if there is any change, go ahead and do a trans fluid and filter change and add another bottle of the lubegard instant fix as well as the lubegard long term fix.

If I do have to replace the torque converter, I was thinking I would just go ahead and replace the whole transmission. What I would really like to do is upgrade it if possible. I plan to put the ESS supercharger on the car and think it would be great to upgrade the transmission since I potentially have to do this anyways.

My buddy said I should swap over to a manual transmission, and I kinda agree as I would probably get more money for the car if I ever went to sell it, but part of the reason I got this car was that I hated driving my manual to and from work in the traffic that I sit in for an hour each way; it is terrible.

Anyone know what options I would have for upgrading the transmission with another auto? DCT? I would hope to find a donor car with low miles or something, but who knows.

started a thread looking for tranny options here - http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...6#post19627376

I had the same issue at ~45K miles, so I had the transmission fluid changed and added a friction modifier. The techs also found a good amount of metal shavings on the transmission pan magnet.

It has been almost a year and the shudder has not returned

[WhiteBeard]

Can you shift to Neutral when you feel this shudder and if needed keep revs up in that range where shudder happens by gas pedal? I mean, if shudder continues - then it's not transmission, if it stops - it is definitely not engine.

[igzekyativ]

Originally Posted by WhiteBeard

Can you shift to Neutral when you feel this shudder and if needed keep revs up in that range where shudder happens by gas pedal? I mean, if shudder continues - then it's not transmission, if it stops - it is definitely not engine.

The last shop I took it to asked me to do this same thing. No shudder when I put it in neutral.

They told me to change the trans fluid and see what happens. If that doesn't work, add the friction modifier. If that doesn't work I will need a new torque converter, but they advised that I should just go for a whole new transmission because if changing the torque converter doesn't work, the next step is to change the whole transmission.

[WhiteBeard]

Originally Posted by igzekyativ

The last shop I took it to asked me to do this same thing. No shudder when I put it in neutral.

They told me to change the trans fluid and see what happens. If that doesn't work, add the friction modifier. If that doesn't work I will need a new torque converter, but they advised that I should just go for a whole new transmission because if changing the torque converter doesn't work, the next step is to change the whole transmission.

Did you ruled out drive shafts CV joints etc completely? Do you think it's tranny 100%?

[igzekyativ]

Originally Posted by WhiteBeard

Did you ruled out drive shafts CV joints etc completely? Do you think it's tranny 100%?

I think it's tranny related (but look how many times I was wrong before). The flow chart is pretty telling...

I am going to change the fluid, just fluid not the filter, tomorrow to see if there is any difference.

[WhiteBeard]

Originally Posted by igzekyativ

I think it's tranny related (but look how many times I was wrong before). The flow chart is pretty telling...

I am going to change the fluid, just fluid not the filter, tomorrow to see if there is any difference.

Please keep us posted!

[igzekyativ]

having trouble with the fill plug... won't come off and is starting to round.. going to hit it with some flame/heat and pb plaster on saturday to see if I can get it loose.. if not, $120 in labor for a shop to do the tranny fluid change next week :/

[igzekyativ]

SOLVED!! I changed the transmission fluid and added two Lubegard additives. Note, I was advised by two techs not to change the transmissions filter.

-Lubegard 60902 Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant, 10 oz.
http://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-60902...ilpage_o02_s00

-Lubegard 19610 Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx, 2 oz.
http://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-19610...ilpage_o09_s01

It's only been one day and so far so good. I will report back in a couple weeks time.

HOORAYYY!!!

It was NOT:
-front guibo
-rear guibo
-center bearing
-car software
-ignition coils
-spark plugs
-Transfer Case Actuator Motor
-driveshaft balance
-cv joint
-front dif
-rear dif
-transfer case or its fluid fluid

[igzekyativ]

Just want to report back that after about a month, the shudder started to come back, and now its just as bad as it was before the "solution" above..

Now i just need to decide if a buy a new torque converter or a used transmission with lower mileage...

[Yangorang]

These GM auto transmissions are absolutely craptastic - the worst I've ever driven in any car let alone a BMW. Let us know how much it costs if you find a used transmission or rebuilder.

[igzekyativ]

Originally Posted by Yangorang

These GM auto transmissions are absolutely craptastic - the worst I've ever driven in any car let alone a BMW. Let us know how much it costs if you find a used transmission or rebuilder.

yea for real...

I found a used trans with 36k for about $1000 (no torque converter) on automotix.com

Someone on another BMW forum mentioned they had the same problem as me and got a remanufactured torque converter from www.torqueconverter1.com

I went to that site and submitted a form for a quote - this was in the email quote I received:

"Your torque converter price is $319 + Free S&H. Most dependable REMANUFACTURED torque converter you can buy at factory direct price!
- NO CORE RETURN REQUIRED -
- 1 YEAR WARRANTY -"

Got quoted a 7.6 hours job - ~$1,000 - to install the TC at my local shop (labor, oil and seals).

I am a big DIYer and I am struggling with this one because my jacks won't get the car high enough to pull the transmission.

I am thinking that if I get these (http://myliftstand.com/) stands, that should get me high enough to pull the trans. I hear they run about $520 for a set of four. That is far less then the labor the shop would charge and I would get these awesome stands.

My only fear going this route is that my jack wouldn't be tall enough once the car is up on the new stands and so it wouldn't be able to help me lower my trans out.

[xthejuicex]

Originally Posted by igzekyativ

yea for real...

I am a big DIYer and I am struggling with this one because my jacks won't get the car high enough to pull the transmission.

I am thinking that if I get these (http://myliftstand.com/) stands, that should get me high enough to pull the trans. I hear they run about $520 for a set of four. That is far less then the labor the shop would charge and I would get these awesome stands.

My only fear going this route is that my jack wouldn't be tall enough once the car is up on the new stands and so it wouldn't be able to help me lower my trans out.

I would avoid those liftstands. If you ever have to do any suspension work, they will be useless since you need the tire attached to lift the car.

I've pulled the trans and t-case out myself and I used the Harbor Freight 3 ton jack stands. They are a good deal taller than normal jack stands.

Also you may want to get the Low Lift trans jack from there too. It has helped me a bunch (http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-...ack-61232.html)

In regards to your jack not going high enough, use a block of wood on the jack or get a better floor jack.

Everything I've suggested is much cheaper than the LiftStands and much more versatile. Good Luck!

[igzekyativ]

Originally Posted by xthejuicex

I would avoid those liftstands. If you ever have to do any suspension work, they will be useless since you need the tire attached to lift the car.

I have normal 2 ton jack stands for any items related to suspension, wheels, tires, brakes. I like the height that the liftstands would provide for all other jobs.

Originally Posted by xthejuicex

I've pulled the trans and t-case out myself and I used the Harbor Freight 3 ton jack stands. They are a good deal taller than normal jack stands.

You trusted the jack stands at their highest setting? How tall are the 3 ton stands you have (I'd like to compare to my 2 ton)?

Originally Posted by xthejuicex

Also you may want to get the Low Lift trans jack from there too. It has helped me a bunch (http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-...ack-61232.html)

this looks very helpful, thanks.

Originally Posted by xthejuicex

In regards to your jack not going high enough, use a block of wood on the jack or get a better floor jack.

the liftstands guy recommended this specific jack - http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-l...ump-60678.html

Originally Posted by xthejuicex

Everything I've suggested is much cheaper than the LiftStands and much more versatile. Good Luck!

Yea, the liftstands are expensive at $686 shipped to me, and I would still need to buy the transmission jack you posted ($99.99), and the low-pro long reach floor jack ($139.99). Granted this would all probably cost less than the labor to have the shop do the job for me, but I would walk away with some pretty good tools. Obviously, it's much cheaper to just get 3 ton jack stands, the trans jack, and the floor jack.

Thanks for your input.