[pjr710]

Hey guys i love this thread. I did my rear actuator a few months ago, turned it a lot, and it fixed all my problems.

I used a vacuum pump and mechanics stethoscope to listen to when the WG shut, i remember there were 2 sounds, one was an initial ping, then there was a DING followed by no more sounds - which led me to believe it was shut.

Here's my question ...

When i did this, i also listened to my front turbo WG. The front turbo had a slight ping at 6HG and was fully shut at 7HG.

I just got a walnut blast done, and the mechanic told me i have power loss (not sure if he was trying to sell me or what)

But it got me thinking that maybe I do.

Here are two logs, do you think my car is building up boost slow? Because of 100% WGDC and comparing to some other peoples logs I believe I am - so my question is - would having my front actuator fully close at 7HG instead 6HG cause lag? I would like to do the washer method, but would 1HG make a difference?

https://datazap.me/u/pjr710/3rd-gear...-24&mark=20-44

https://datazap.me/u/pjr710/3rd-gear...?log=0&data=15

[eyelobes]

Bought my e90 a month ago with 104k miles on the clock and it rattled like hell. Tightened the rear actuator arm but still rattled like crazy. Today I put the two 8mm washers on each bolt on the front actuator and now I'm rattle free. Before the fix, it still rattled with the MHD food applied, the lag was atrocious.

Thank you all for this thread, but being under the car showed me my oil pan gasket is leaking pretty good, but luckily it's not bad enough to drip yet

[Saitama]

Originally Posted by e92.coupe

I just did the fix on mine and 2 other E92's, it does wonders if the waste-gates still have some life in them. I'm located in the valley as well so feel free to PM me for more details if you still need it done

You still willing do do this? I'll gladly drive 3-3.5 hours from vegas to have this done.

[Louis Picasso]

Originally Posted by e92.coupe

I just did the fix on mine and 2 other E92's, it does wonders if the waste-gates still have some life in them. I'm located in the valley as well so feel free to PM me for more details if you still need it done

What's good fam, I'm located in the valley too. I sometimes get rattle but only on light acceleration and was hoping this method could be the solution. I'm willing to pay for this fix, let me know thanks.

[BooSSted]

I just did the washer fix today. It didn't really help much at all. I've got the JB4 fix pretty well maxed to get it to stop rattling, and the lag is awful...

Has anyone else gotten to the point where they couldn't get it to stop rattling at all?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by BooSSted

I just did the washer fix today. It didn't really help much at all. I've got the JB4 fix pretty well maxed to get it to stop rattling, and the lag is awful...

Has anyone else gotten to the point where they couldn't get it to stop rattling at all?

You probably are to the point where you need to replace the wastegate actuators or the turbos all together

[Jeef]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

You probably are to the point where you need to replace the wastegate actuators or the turbos all together

+1..


all that time and effort when you can just swap turbos for brand new ones with upgraded wastegates that don't rattle.

[BooSSted]

Here's where I'm stumped though...

I just bought the car, and the rattle was very slight. I was told that the car had a mild tune, but they didn't know what the previous owner had flashed on there.

When I installed my JB4, the rattle got infinitely worse. Even with the rattle fix set all the way to 0, it would rattle.

So, I'm wondering if maybe it had an MHD tune on it before. Does the MHD rattle fix work better than the JB4 one? Aside from installing the JB4, I hadn't done anything else to the car that would have caused the rattle to increase. I've only driven it 100miles and the car has 74k on it.

[AZE93M3]

Taking a long shot here, but is anyone able to perform this service located in Arizona or a neighboring state? I'm in Phoenix but will gladly drive a few hours to have this completed. My turbos were replaced only 40k miles ago and rattle, no issue with boost.
Thanks!

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by BooSSted

Here's where I'm stumped though...

I just bought the car, and the rattle was very slight. I was told that the car had a mild tune, but they didn't know what the previous owner had flashed on there.

When I installed my JB4, the rattle got infinitely worse. Even with the rattle fix set all the way to 0, it would rattle.

So, I'm wondering if maybe it had an MHD tune on it before. Does the MHD rattle fix work better than the JB4 one? Aside from installing the JB4, I hadn't done anything else to the car that would have caused the rattle to increase. I've only driven it 100miles and the car has 74k on it.

MHD rattle fix and the JB4 one will both increase lag in order to reduce wastegate rattle.

Whole point of twins is lag is minimal, so it's really annoying if you have to sacrifice turbo response in order to fix rattle.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by BooSSted

I just did the washer fix today. It didn't really help much at all. I've got the JB4 fix pretty well maxed to get it to stop rattling, and the lag is awful...

Has anyone else gotten to the point where they couldn't get it to stop rattling at all?

Agree with mweisdorfer, you either need to get uprated wastegates fitted or replace turbos altogether to have a proper fix.

I had Incolnel wastegates fitted on my stock turbos, this was before I knew about RB turbos. I would recommend RB OEM Billet Turbos with uprated wastegates,

Don't bother with stock turbos.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Don't bother with stock turbos.

Why?

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by feuer

Why?

Pretty sure I made it quite obvious in previous posts, but as your asking,

If he's tuning, better to get upgraded pure/rb turbos or go st in my opinion.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Pretty sure I made it quite obvious in previous posts, but as your asking,

If he's tuning, better to get upgraded pure/rb turbos or go st in my opinion.

I have done 50+ track days. Advance group. That is about 20-25 min, 5 to 7 sessions each event. Countless number of hard pulls. Enormous heat. Not just some pulls here and there on your commute to work. Feuer does that too. Tuned as well. 20+ psi. Manual transmission which is harder on turbos. Nothing but OEM turbos can withstand that. ST is different. I have one of those too. Can’t compare them. Anyhow, let me know of an aftermarket of the shelf twin turbos that can last as long as OEM. I will get a set for you too.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by eyelobes

Bought my e90 a month ago with 104k miles on the clock and it rattled like hell. Tightened the rear actuator arm but still rattled like crazy. Today I put the two 8mm washers on each bolt on the front actuator and now I'm rattle free. Before the fix, it still rattled with the MHD food applied, the lag was atrocious.

Thank you all for this thread, but being under the car showed me my oil pan gasket is leaking pretty good, but luckily it's not bad enough to drip yet

Two 8 mm washers? As 8mm thick?

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by feuer

I have done 50+ track days. Advance group. That is about 20-25 min, 5 to 7 sessions each event. Countless number of hard pulls. Enormous heat. Not just some pulls here and there on your commute to work. Feuer does that too. Tuned as well. 20+ psi. Manual transmission which is harder on turbos. Nothing but OEM turbos can withstand that. ST is different. I have one of those too. Can’t compare them. Anyhow, let me know of an aftermarket of the shelf twin turbos that can last as long as OEM. I will get a set for you too.

lol, Feur saying Feur does what?

RB sell OEM TD03 with uprated wastegates, if you read the previous posts you know wastegate rattle is a common issue with stock twins, in addition your pushing stock turbos to their limit at 20+psi,

Whereas you can get a good set of RB turbos and run them at 20+psi easily unstressed and not maxed out waiting for it to go pop.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

lol, Feur saying Feur does what?

RB sell OEM TD03 with uprated wastegates, if you read the previous posts you know wastegate rattle is a common issue with stock twins, in addition your pushing stock turbos to their limit at 20+psi,

Whereas you can get a good set of RB turbos and run them at 20+psi easily unstressed and not maxed out waiting for it to go pop.

Rattle common, but even aftermarket would rattle. It’s inherited in the design and how the turbo works. I have been fortunate not to have an issue with rattle. OEM turbos will still outlast those RB turbos albeit them not being stressed. No aftermarket market option holds the longevity records. Not even close. If you want to do 50+ track days and also keep driving it daily, at -30c in winter and +40c in summer, aftermarket won’t be your choice. Unless you what to be replacing the turbos often.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by feuer

Rattle common, but even aftermarket would rattle. It’s inherited in the design and how the turbo works. I have been fortunate not to have an issue with rattle. OEM turbos will still outlast those RB turbos albeit them not being stressed. No aftermarket market option holds the longevity records. Not even close. If you want to do 50+ track days and also keep driving it daily, at -30c in winter and +40c in summer, aftermarket won’t be your choice. Unless you what to be replacing the turbos often.

If your not Maxing them out, stock twins can last quite a while, running a setbof turbos designed for 8psi from factory, at consistently 20+psi will shorten its lifespan significantly and its just a matter of time before it goes pop.

If you think you can run rinse stock turbo's at 20+psi and outlast a pure/rb turbo at 20+psi then your delusional. Each to their own.

You can't elemimate wastegate rattle permanently but Stock twins with uprated wastegates will generally last longer, I have them myself and running almost 3 years hardly any rattle.

I'd rather have a set of OEM TD03's with uprated wastegates than buy a set of completely stock Twins and then have to deal with wastegate rattle sooner.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

If your not Maxing them out, stock twins can last quite a while, running a setbof turbos designed for 8psi from factory, at consistently 20+psi will shorten its lifespan significantly and its just a matter of time before it goes pop.

If you think you can run rinse stock turbo's at 20+psi and outlast a pure/rb turbo at 20+psi then your delusional. Each to their own.

You can't elemimate wastegate rattle permanently but Stock twins with uprated wastegates will generally last longer, I have them myself and running almost 3 years hardly any rattle.

I'd rather have a set of OEM TD03's with uprated wastegates than buy a set of completely stock Twins and then have to deal with wastegate rattle sooner.

I have 13y n54, been tracking it for 10y, with 120k miles, still on OEM turbos at 20psi +, no rattle, no fixes for rattle either. Lot more stress and heat cycles. Went through 4 coolant pumps because it. You are delusional if you think your experience is the rule here. Or that you know it all for that matter lol How you drive your n54 to how I drive mine would be equivalent to babying it. These turbos aren’t designed for 8psi. They just happen to run at 8psi per bmw. PSI isn’t the reason aftermarket turbos fail. Poor quality is.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by feuer

I have 13y n54, been tracking it for 10y, with 120k miles, still on OEM turbos at 20psi +, no rattle, no fixes for rattle either. Lot more stress and heat cycles. Went through 4 coolant pumps because it. You are delusional if you think your experience is the rule here. Or that you know it all for that matter lol How you drive your n54 to how I drive mine would be equivalent to babying it. These turbos aren’t designed for 8psi. They just happen to run at 8psi per bmw. PSI isn’t the reason aftermarket turbos fail. Poor quality is.

Yes they happen to run at 8psi as per BMW, lol. They are designed to run at around 8psi, not 20+psi, yes you can run them, but pretending there are no consequences is what's delusional.

Wastegates were completely shot on my stock untuned turbos at 117k, and rattle fixes didn't work, lmao

Obviously the wear and tear on turbos is affected by how you drive, how long your on boost and what psi you pushing the turbos etc, if you push them well past 20psi constantly then obviously going to wear oit quicker. Yes you keep telling us boost has no effect on turbo wear, lol

Throwing red herrings like accusing others of being a know it all, doesn't prove anything.

RB and Pure turbos are quite reliable, of course Feuer will tell us Stock twins at 20psi+ is more reliable, lmao.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Yes they happen to run at 8psi as per BMW, lol. They are designed to run at around 8psi, not 20+psi, yes you can run them, but pretending there are no consequences is what's delusional.

Wastegates were completely shot on my stock untuned turbos at 117k, and rattle fixes didn't work, lmao

Obviously the wear and tear on turbos is affected by how you drive, how long your on boost and what psi you pushing the turbos etc, if you push them well past 20psi constantly then obviously going to wear oit quicker. Yes you keep telling us boost has no effect on turbo wear, lol

Throwing red herrings like accusing others of being a know it all, doesn't prove anything.

RB and Pure turbos are quite reliable, of course Feuer will tell us Stock twins at 20psi+ is more reliable, lmao.

I knew you don’t have hands on experience but assumed you had read some material on TD03. I was wrong. L15B7 engine with TD03 runs to 16.5 psi per Honza. They are bench mark in reliability and would have opted if not for different turbo option at least for different tune with lower psi limit. Official data: http://www.mhiet.co.jp/en/products/t...cal/index.html

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by feuer

I knew you don’t have hands on experience but assumed you had read some material on TD03. I was wrong. L15B7 engine with TD03 runs to 16.5 psi per Honza. They are bench mark in reliability and would have opted if not for different turbo option at least for different tune with lower psi limit. Official data: http://www.mhiet.co.jp/en/products/t...cal/index.html

No difference between running 16.5psi and 20+psi constantly?

RB and Pure unreliable turbos according to you eh?