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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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DIY: 335i N54 Front CrankShaft Seal Replacement
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04-06-2019, 09:05 PM | #67 |
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I'm not sure. KTC tools does sell a tool kit for the n54 rear seal. Maybe comparing the two one would know.
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04-08-2019, 08:17 PM | #69 |
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No. They are different size tools. I have the tool kit with both the front & rear main seal tools.
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04-08-2019, 10:13 PM | #70 |
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04-09-2019, 05:28 AM | #71 | |
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Here is a site that does. https://m.eeuroparts.com/Parts/14023...55-110370RENT/ |
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04-09-2019, 01:37 PM | #72 | |
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04-22-2019, 08:01 AM | #73 |
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Drives: 2007 Black/Black 335i e90
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A must for this DIY
so, I learned a little something this weekend. You can run the car with out the harmonic balancer on (no belt), as long as you have a least a 30v battery charger/ maintainer. A 60v would be ideal.
I did just that. It did this to see exactly where the leak was coming from in the front crank shaft seal. Low and behold it was coming from inside the seal. The outside & especially where the key holes are on the seal were perfect. So, I couldn't remember if I oiled the crank or not the last time I did this seal. I made sure that I lightly oiled the crank with a Q-tip several times, and installed the new seal. You MUST do this or the seal might buckle on the inside when you are pushing it in. Putting a rubber seal in Dry, in that tight of an area, is a bad idea and was probably my mistake. I put a bead of Ultra Grey in the key slots and around the entire seal and let it set up for maybe 15 min. I then used the tool to slowly push the seal in. I took the tool off the crank and then put a good bead of ultra grey around the entire seal like I was caulking a window or door. I even used the little blue caulking tool you can get at HD or Lowe's, so you can get a perfect seal and look all the way around. The key with a product like Ultra Grey is that it's Engineered specifically for car parts that vibrate (cranks). You also, MUST wait 24 hours before you start the car up after you have the new seal in. Last, I ran the engine like before without any belt on to see if it would leak. No leaks!!!!!! I put her back together and then ran it again for a good 20 min or so and made sure the oil temp hit 200 degrees. No leaks !!!!! |
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05-13-2019, 08:25 PM | #74 | |
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05-14-2019, 05:42 AM | #75 | ||
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05-30-2019, 07:37 PM | #76 |
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This post was the best information I found on replacing my crankshaft seal thank you, however I did a big screw up and ended up pressing the metal seal back up inside by accident. The rubber layer came off and I got distracted didn’t pull the metal part out and now it’s up in there. How screwed am I?
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06-03-2019, 04:08 PM | #77 | |
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06-24-2019, 09:21 PM | #78 |
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Are you still renting out this tool?
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06-27-2019, 12:04 AM | #79 |
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Hello mr_malvo, thank you for the great information and very detailed you provided. I was wondering if you would lend out your KTC Tools - Seal Puller and Pusher? You can message me at ffuen01@gmail.com
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09-08-2019, 03:55 PM | #80 |
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Thanks everyone. Just completed this on my n52, hopefully that puts the serpentine belt saga behind me.
My car had the newer style seal which meant the removal tool didn't work. I attacked the seal carefully with a screwdriver from below, tapping the screwdriver with a mallet just under the radiator. Once I'd made a big enough gap I levered it from the block side and it eventually slipped half way out. I then levered it from the pulley side to get it all out. No need to butcher it from above or the sides, one big dent in the metal is all you need. My Nielsen fitting tool would not accommodate the plastic sleeve with the bolts in place. The bolts stood too far proud of the tool. I trimmed the plastic sleeve with tin snips. I took off more than I needed making it fiddly to fit the seal, but I'm reasonably confident I got it. The plastic seal actually goes over the end of the pulley which is clever. I used permatex ultra gray rather than the expensive stuff. Will report back in a few thousand miles. |
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11-15-2019, 11:41 PM | #81 |
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1. Thank you for this thread. Pretty much matches the Bentley Manual.
2. Thank you JPuehl for loaning me the tool. 3. My loctite gasket maker came with no plunger. Was scratching my head for a while. Got one from some horse syringes we have that happened to fit. I found it frustratingly hard to get any flow rate from the specified tip. I did jam it in the place where the grooves were (and I lined it up correctly) but it was so tight I am not sure I got anything in there very far. 4. I switched to a larger tip to slather the gasket maker on the front of the seal and around the edges. 5. We'll see what happens when I start it up tomorrow...as soon as I figure out how to fit a stock fan onto a CSF Radiator (separate project I was doing in parallel)...
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12-02-2019, 10:35 AM | #82 | |
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Drives: 2007 Black/Black 335i e90
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MAKE SURE you lightly oil the crank shaft with motor oil prior to installing the seal. THIS IS A MUST. |
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05-02-2020, 06:19 PM | #83 |
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Mr Malvo, excellent writing. I know this is an old post, but unfortunately the ghost of the shredded belt is still haunting bimmers to this day! I am in need to borrow/rent the crank seal tool to exorcise the demon. if you still have it please contact me at: ray at compworld dot us
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05-16-2020, 11:36 AM | #84 |
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Special Tool for Rent
I tried doing this repair without the tool. Seal would not budge. Purchased the tool (wicked expensive for one time use) and will retry the repair today.
Message me if you're interested in renting/buying the tool. |
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05-24-2020, 09:27 AM | #85 |
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Thanks!
Hi, im going through this just right now, i have oil pan out, got out all the belt pieces and now is time to put back the crank seal, this helps a lot, thanks!
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05-27-2020, 01:11 PM | #86 |
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Only way to do it without tools (either bought or custom made) is with engine out
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10-21-2020, 10:40 AM | #88 |
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335i, belt, crankshaft, n54, seal |
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