[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by spacegrau335is

Hello - long time lurker, first time poster here. I have a 2011 335is 'vert (DCT) with 114k mi on it (picked it up at 107k). Bought it with both turbos replaced and oil pan cover / gaskets but hitting some serious work now.

Took it to an Indy for eval and was told I need to replace:
- FT control arms
- shocks all around
- some misc coolant etc
- service DCT

I'm at an impasse. I love this car, and am thinking of doing m3 control arms, Bilstein B12 kit (greater comfort than OEM sport suspension, better handling), DCT service, new tires (non-RFT either DWS06 or PS4S in wider sizes), some misc service, and FBO + oil catch can. I had originally budgeted $5k for some combination of this, but it's coming out to an easy $10k+. Any advice on how to approach this? I've also attached a screenshot of the spreadsheet with parts.

Any advice would be very appreciated!

This video does a nice job of explaining what tools to get & why. He is also one of the premier DIY'ers IMO on the N54.

[Luis561]

I don't know if I'm reading it wrong but are they really charging you $300 in labor to swap out your Intercooler??

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Luis561

I don't know if I'm reading it wrong but are they really charging you $300 in labor to swap out your Intercooler??

I hear ya. A 5" stepped FMIC is virtually plug & play. This is especially true if you buy an ARM 5" stepped because they have the OEM connections.

A 7" FMIC does require some trimming with a dremmel, but not $300.00 worth of labor that's for sure.

I wonder what they are charging the OP per hour?

[Luis561]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I hear ya. A 5" stepped FMIC is virtually plug & play. This is especially true if you buy an ARM 5" stepped because they have the OEM connections.

A 7" FMIC does require some trimming with a dremmel, but not $300.00 worth of labor that's for sure.

I wonder what they are charging the OP per hour?

$600 per hour If I can swap out my Intercooler in 30 minutes

[bimmerfan1972]

Welcome to the BMW family. I've always liked the 335is. I think you will be happy with all of the upgrades.

As far as DIY goes, I've done most of those same jobs on my 335ix, and some are easy, some not, but all of them are time consuming. And if you don't have a good place to do it or the right tools, makes it even more difficult. Not a bad idea to try and tackle some of it yourself though. The cost of ownership of these cars is pretty high, and being able to do some of the maintenance yourself will save lots of money.

[spacegrau335is]

Thanks all for the help! Wanted to share a quick update. I ended up doing suspension, dct service, misc maintenance, and tires this go around. Coming out to ~6k with labor and should have the car back this weekend (after two weeks away).

Got Conti DWS06 Plus tires in 245/275, rest of the items done below: ofhg, intake manifold gaskets, upper coolant hose and aluminum flange, coolant flush, trunk struts, walnut blasting, Bilstein B12 struts and eibach lowering springs, m3 front control arms, whiteline subframe bushings, RB PCV valve, Dinan shock mounts, dct/transmission flush and oil pan etc replacement, oil change, suspension components (all the strut mounts, bolts, etc), brake pads/rotors.

Will probably think about FBO in August but for now I'm just really excited to have the car back!

[Vivek.]

Originally Posted by Luis561

I don't know if I'm reading it wrong but are they really charging you $300 in labor to swap out your Intercooler??

Welcome to silicon valley; I honestly don't even want to say what I paid for labor for CP/BOV install. Wasn't confident in my ability to install the BOV properly and didn't want to end up over-pressurizing the system, damaging turbos or other components. My face when I got that bill: 😳

It was worth the shop's 4-year unlimited mile warranty, insurance on their work, and my peace of mind. They brought up so many considerations that I'd have completely overlooked.

[Dabrwright]

Originally Posted by spacegrau335is

Yeah the michelins are pricey for sure. These are the pilot sport 4S's which seem to be the most expensive summer tires I've come across, but everyone swears by their performance so wanted to entertain the thought. This is also from America's Tire and includes their tire certificate/warranty (saved me a few times already, replaced two pzero RFTs for free with 0 hassle). Def going to look into DIY walnut blasting - seems intimidating but if you're careful doesn't seem terribly hard.

I'm in the East Bay but no issues in going to other parts of the Bay! Would love shop recs! GAS in Berkeley is incredible but very expensive (maybe one day!), and have also talked to BimmerGuys out in Castro Valley, who are great and reasonable - labor quotes are from them.

I have used Edge Motorworks in Fremont
Not cheap but they are the most careful technicians I have come across in the Bay Area

[Vivek.]

Originally Posted by Dabrwright

I have used Edge Motorworks in Fremont
Not cheap but they are the most careful technicians I have come across in the Bay Area

EDGE is the shop that did my charge pipe. I agree with your assessment of them

GAS is great too, I know the owner Chris and his best customer Eddie who owns the E31 CSI, E34 M5 slicktop wagon (1 of 1), and some other crazy cars. Very meticulous shop but good work sure as hell isn't cheap

[BSM n54iS]

Originally Posted by Vivek.

Welcome to silicon valley; I honestly don't even want to say what I paid for labor for CP/BOV install. Wasn't confident in my ability to install the BOV properly and didn't want to end up over-pressurizing the system, damaging turbos or other components. My face when I got that bill: 😳

It was worth the shop's 4-year unlimited mile warranty, insurance on their work, and my peace of mind. They brought up so many considerations that I'd have completely overlooked.

What bov do you have? I had a Tial a few months ago and changed it out for a Raceport and just swapped the springs on it. Way waaaaaay simple, not really a way to F anything up. Can get some silicone grease (thin layer) to keep the o-ring in place, only hiccup I can see

[Vivek.]

Originally Posted by BdSM n54iS

What bov do you have? I had a Tial a few months ago and changed it out for a Raceport and just swapped the springs on it. Way waaaaaay simple, not really a way to F anything up. Can get some silicone grease (thin layer) to keep the o-ring in place, only hiccup I can see

I have the Tial. I just didn't know what I was doing; for example, had no idea I'd need a vac line going to the manifold past the throttle body or the BOV won't open. Looking at the thing in my hand, I thought that connection was where the air exited