[ISSA335]

Just bought a car that came with the M3 cluster swap, love it and everything works except the gas gauge, goes up to full and goes down to half a tank which is some what irritating, guy that I bought it from has been extremely helpful with everything on the car and he said he looked to make sure it wasn't hardware related(has a stage 3 BMP LPFP) just curious could this be in the coding? Thanks

Also fair warning, my knowledge on coding is about slim to none, so I know it's not that hard to pull out the physical pump and check to see if the float is damaged etc but just want to get this fixed if possible

[roadkillrob]

I would start with the known messed with stuff before going into the tank. Did it ever work right after the swap when the original owner did it?

Was it a full cluster swap or the more likely switch of the faces, needles and bezels which is what most people do as swapping the whole cluster is more work. If it was the former, then the needles are removed and gauges faces swapped and needle replaced, my guess is that is where the issue might be, either the needle is hitting the face and getting stuck or they put the needle on in the wrong position, so empt is half and full is everything above half as it will only go so high. If it was me I would probably start with pulling the cluster apart and pulling the needle off and putting it back on in the right position. There is also something called perfektoolbox that will let you adjust the stepper motors positions etc that is great for getting things spot on, but if you are off that much, that is not the fix, something else is wrong.

[ISSA335]

Originally Posted by roadkillrob

I would start with the known messed with stuff before going into the tank. Did it ever work right after the swap when the original owner did it?

Was it a full cluster swap or the more likely switch of the faces, needles and bezels which is what most people do as swapping the whole cluster is more work. If it was the former, then the needles are removed and gauges faces swapped and needle replaced, my guess is that is where the issue might be, either the needle is hitting the face and getting stuck or they put the needle on in the wrong position, so empt is half and full is everything above half as it will only go so high. If it was me I would probably start with pulling the cluster apart and pulling the needle off and putting it back on in the right position. There is also something called perfektoolbox that will let you adjust the stepper motors positions etc that is great for getting things spot on, but if you are off that much, that is not the fix, something else is wrong.

The guy said it's done that since he swapped it and it was a full cluster swap not just faces

[LMB335IS]

Originally Posted by ISSA335

The guy said it's done that since he swapped it and it was a full cluster swap not just faces

Does the needle go to zero when the car is powered off or after you wake it up by inserting the key but before pressing the start button?

[ISSA335]

Originally Posted by LMB335IS

Does the needle go to zero when the car is powered off or after you wake it up by inserting the key but before pressing the start button?

Yes it goes all the way down when turned off but while on it stops at just below half

[sdbmwcoding]

Originally Posted by ISSA335

Yes it goes all the way down when turned off but while on it stops at just below half

Never seen a problem like that, I'd find someone with a kdcan cable and ncs expert and default code the cluster (kombi). Or run a diagnosis scan via ISTA and see if there's any codes stored in the KOMBi

[ISSA335]

Originally Posted by sd*********

Never seen a problem like that, I'd find someone with a kdcan cable and ncs expert and default code the cluster (kombi). Or run a diagnosis scan via ISTA and see if there's any codes stored in the KOMBi

Ok I have a kdcan cable for MHD, is ncs expert something I can download and do this myself?