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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Which cable to buy?
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10-23-2015, 06:34 PM | #1 |
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Which cable to buy?
Hey guys, just picked up an e92 328xi less than a week ago and I'm looking to do some coding. Tried very hard for the past few days to read up on it, and I think I have a gist of the basics. Would appreciate some help though to start up on it, been reading mostly about destroying the lighting system using the BMWhat Carly app so I would like to stay away from it lol.
Figured out that my production date is Jan 2007, so that means I have the pre 03/2007 model with the NFRM(?) FRM so I don't need a dcan cable I believe. Does this mean that I need a cable with kcan capabilities? My friend brought his OBDII bluetooth one just to try it out and it didn't connect to my car. I also have a wifi OBDII that I use with the torque app on my 370z but that's not for coding or anything. I ALSO have an old OBDII to USB cable that I used to read codes for my old civic in the past lol. Can someone point me in the right direction please, as to what cable I need? I would like to purchase one off eBay to just save money, but at the same time I don't want to brick any of my modules. Would the OBDII to USB one I have to read codes work with my car, or would I need to buy a new cable? Thanks in advance guys, this is my second euro car (had an e46 before this) and I'm just learning about all the electronics. A lot more complicated than the typical JDM cars I owned in the past |
10-23-2015, 06:42 PM | #2 |
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You should get a K+DCAN cable.
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10-24-2015, 10:42 PM | #5 | |
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its 100 bucks but its worth it. |
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10-26-2015, 07:57 AM | #6 | |
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10-26-2015, 09:23 AM | #7 |
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Not really a ripoff, especially when you know it will work on any E series platform from early 2000's to 2013. I know the one you're talking about and it is a good one, but I've personally used my one-stop on 1, 3, 5, and 7 series and the cable was never, ever was an issue. Sixty dollars difference, shit, I can piss that away in 5 minutes in a bar.
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10-26-2015, 09:37 AM | #8 |
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There was a fairly recent problem with clone FTDI chips found in Chinese cables being rendered useless by FTDI malware. FTDI no longer does this so most of the cables found on ebay should work now. If you buy one with a switch so you don't have to solder and desolder pins it will be more convenient.
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10-26-2015, 12:49 PM | #9 |
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If you're going to do a fair amount of coding, IMO, it's best to get the 1 stop cable. I have 2 or 3 based on what I do. If you're only looking to get your car coded and nothing else, there are forum members who mail loaners for this purpose so you don't have to worry about which one to buy.
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11-03-2015, 08:44 PM | #10 | |
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you need K+CAN cable http://www.obdtool.co.uk/wholesale/b...can-cable.html |
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11-04-2015, 08:42 PM | #11 |
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My first cable was a $25 cable from China. I figured out how to change the Hardware ID of the cable to work with FTDI drivers. It would connect to my car, but would not connect to any modules. I bought the One Stop and it works perfect. I ordered the One Stop on a Thursday night and received it the following Thursday.
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11-08-2015, 08:15 PM | #12 |
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Thanks for all of the help guys. I ended up buying one off eBay after some more searching on the coding forum, $20 and so far it's worked great After a few hours of tinkering and figuring out how to use NCSExpert and get the stupid drivers for my china cable lol, managed to code a bunch of things.
-Corner amber headlight delete with parking lights/low beams -LED bulb checks off for side markers and reverse lights -Fog lights on with welcome lights -Comfort key eject -Closing windows/sunroof with key fob -Stop interrupting auto windows up when door is open One thing I can't figure out though is how to turn off the headlight corner ambers with the welcome lights. Been reading up a bit about it and someone said WL_POL is the code for ambers, but someone else says this also turns off the angel eyes? Also can't figure out how to code off the puny amber LED in the corner of the headlights, the big halogen bulb is off and only turns on when I signal but the LED is constantly always on |
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03-10-2016, 06:28 AM | #13 |
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Can you recommend any specific seller for the ICOM A2? Or would you say that any one of the ICOM knockoffs should work?
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