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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Pictures: Electric water pump + thermostat replace
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06-11-2011, 11:07 AM | #45 |
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One tradition has stopped: All my previous BMWs (’76 2002, ’79 528i, 88 325e, 91 325i, 98 328i) had a big-ass temp gauge on the right-hand side of the gauge cluster—they got as much real estate as the fuel gauges.
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06-11-2011, 12:54 PM | #46 |
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06-29-2011, 08:22 PM | #48 |
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I did replace my thermostat and waterpump on my 330xi. It has less room to work on then in the OP's pics, but it's possible (if you got skinny fingers, lol).
For 330xi, and probably 325xi and 328xi: Remove air intake to gain access to radiator fan, Remove the radiator fan (only 2 screws one on top, and one underneath) Unhook the sway bar (just like OP did) Now there is just enough room to replace the thermostat and water pump. Use u-joints or flex drives to get to the bolts. DO NOT buy used water pump, my broken water pump looked fine and it was not completely dead. It's not worth it to find out that the part you struggled to put in is not any better then the one you took out. Last edited by rusty_g80; 06-29-2011 at 09:52 PM.. |
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07-17-2011, 06:41 PM | #50 | |
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If you want to do it in steps from least $ to most $, you can, but it's quiet a bit of work. Took me 8hrs to replace both (would be same time for either, since both tstat and pump have to come out for you to replace either). |
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07-26-2011, 07:19 AM | #51 |
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Gr8 writeup. How many miles on your BMW at the time of failure?
Do we need to remove the fan on my model to R/R the WP? Thanks
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07-27-2011, 05:28 AM | #52 | |
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Just as a side note, you are supposed to replace the aluminum water pump mounting bolts (because they are blue-headed), however the replacement bolts (come as a kit of three under the part number) are not blue-headed, which means they do not require replacement (if they are ever removed again). Knowing this, I wouldn't order the replacement bolts since the original bolts (with blue heads) are the same aluminum bolt as the replacement bolt (they just don't have the blue paint on the head). It saves you about 7 bucks. The torque on the bolts is around 80+ INCH/lbs (about 6 ft/lbs), which probably doesn't strech them very much. Also, make sure you have a set of e-torx sockets because the pump bolts are external-torx headed. Last edited by ENINTY; 07-27-2011 at 05:34 AM.. |
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11-19-2011, 03:05 PM | #54 |
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My dealer is charging me $1900 less a "15% off coupon" when I complained about the price. Never thought something as simple as a water pump would cost nearly $2000! Well this is the first expensive repair for a car with 170,000 so I'm not ready to start complaining yet...
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11-19-2011, 05:56 PM | #55 | |
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12-22-2011, 03:09 AM | #56 |
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How to replace the water pump
Hi Thanks those are great pics, I noticed you know so much about BMW's I have a 325i 2006 and would greatly appreciate, like I'm sure a lot of other people would if you could maybe make a video or a step by step guide on how to actually change the water pump and thermostat. All the videos I found online are for older bimmers 2005 and older, which we know is no help at all because well there different. Thank you so much in advance or if you can guide in the direction where I can find this info.
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12-22-2011, 05:23 AM | #57 | |
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12-30-2011, 06:22 PM | #58 | |
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01-04-2012, 12:05 AM | #59 |
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Nope, no temp indicator in I-drive either. You know only when it is too late and already overheating. Stupid move BMW! Just like their dipstick removal for electronic indicator that been a failure issue on these cars. There is a few threads of malfunctioning oil level indicator and TSB by BMW about a fix. Annoying. What was wrong with the dipstick they felt the urge to get rid of it? Or the water temperature gauge? My car over heated badly and I only knew when I saw the warning light. The oil temp didn't budge from its 245 F normal through all this. Where is Apple when BMW could use their awesome user interface design skills?
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01-04-2012, 07:03 AM | #60 | |
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01-04-2012, 08:44 PM | #61 | |
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01-05-2012, 08:22 PM | #63 |
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Does anyone know how fast the water pump is capable of spinning? I'm getting overheating issues but only on the track. Maybe it's find for street driving but it's not spinning as fast as it used to spin. I've got 172,000 mi on the car and I'm on my second pump. First one died at 5,000 mi. I've done a pressure test and coolant flush. Oil and coolant are clean. Oil temps are very high on the track (140C) but water temp is fine (90C). Not sure which sensor the car gets that value from. There are several water temp sensors.
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01-25-2012, 12:13 PM | #64 |
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My notes
I have a 2006 330xi with 65K miles and got the engine overheating issue so I just replaced my Water Pump and Thermostat. Here in Canada BMW wants $800 for the Water Pump, $170 for the Thermostat and $30 for the screws!!! After dropping a grand on the parts I didn't want to pay for the labor and I enjoy the occasional mechanical project so I gave the DIY a shot.
The procedures here are good and I read most of the comments from folks that have done this. My two cents from my experience are: 1) It's not hard but you have to be prepared to get dirty and have coolant spill all over and run down your arms. 2) remove the fan - it's easy to do and frees up a lot of extra room. 3) I found the power steering line mounting bracket a challenge to remove and replace since the position of the mounting bolt is really hard to get at. 4) the hoses that are attached by regular hose clamps are hard to get off - I found that by wiggling a very thin screwdriver under the hose that I could then pry it off. The hoses are flexible and can take a little abuse. 5) The two hose clamps on the water pump are the biggest challenge. You only need to remove one hose from the water pump to get it out since the other end of the second water pump hose goes to the thermostat. 6) When you put the parts back attach the water pump and thermostat connecting hose before you put it in. That leaves you with only one hard to get at hose on the water pump. 7) I found that reconnecting the hoses was a lot easier than taking them off if for no other reason than I could pick the most convenient orientation for the hose clamp bolts. 8) You don't have to remove the metal pan under the engine to do the job - I had to though as it seemed to be good at catching dropped bolts. Thanks for everyone that shared their experience - It's what I like the most about the internet... |
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01-26-2012, 09:37 PM | #65 |
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Thanks for the pictures! I spent 1/2 the day trying to do mine only to get 1/2 way done. what a pain in the ass. Good call on removing the sway bar, i was trying to get my pump and stat out without doing that but no way was it going to fit. Still not worth the 2300 bucks to have them do it for me, i thought it was expensive for the hardware at 600 bucks...
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