[Fraggy]

Which of the components shown in this link takes no/minimal toll on ride quality (smoothness) if any?

http://www.hpashop.com/category.sc?categoryId=113

[stressdoc]

The bushings are stiffer so they will likely transmit a bit more jounce from bumps -- but the ride may nonetheless feel smoother and more controlled.

[luckyu]

Originally Posted by HP Autowerks

We don't see a problem just changing one of the components as each one exposed to a diff force. However, why not do both if you are already in there doing the upgrade!

Only reason for me not to do the wishbones, is to avoid the increased camber. When my wishbones wear out, then I can do those, plus more upgrades at the same time, like the tower mounts and maybe one or two rear links. I'll probably end up changing the rear subframe bushings before that. Depends if they're causing the problems that I care about. (I know they're causing the problems you care about.)

I'm not searching for max performance at the limit, like you guys are. I was perfectly happy with a non-sport suspension E36 for many years. That car was almost the perfect car.

I just want my car to steer accurately and with feel, like a sports car should. Right now, it does not!

In fact, thinking about it now, I wonder if it's partly banked surfaces that give it problems. It's much better on 101 (a flat highway we have here in California), than on 280, which has many lovely banked curves. The car's steering response is not linear on 280. It feels broken. I wouldn't say it feels as bad as a Camry; but it's close.

Who knows. But we can't go wrong with stiff bushings. Stiff bushings are good. I like them.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by luckyu

Only reason for me not to do the wishbones, is to avoid the increased camber. When my wishbones wear out, then I can do those, plus more upgrades at the same time, like the tower mounts and maybe one or two rear links. I'll probably end up changing the rear subframe bushings before that. Depends if they're causing the problems that I care about. (I know they're causing the problems you care about.)

I'm not searching for max performance at the limit, like you guys are. I was perfectly happy with a non-sport suspension E36 for many years. That car was almost the perfect car.

I just want my car to steer accurately and with feel, like a sports car should. Right now, it does not!

In fact, thinking about it now, I wonder if it's partly banked surfaces that give it problems. It's much better on 101 (a flat highway we have here in California), than on 280, which has many lovely banked curves. The car's steering response is not linear on 280. It feels broken. I wouldn't say it feels as bad as a Camry; but it's close.

Who knows. But we can't go wrong with stiff bushings. Stiff bushings are good. I like them.

Added camber can be one of the reasons you don't want to add the wishbone kit to your list of mods, but it does at to the feedback from the suspension and steering to the driver.

[luckyu]

Originally Posted by HP Autowerks

Added camber can be one of the reasons you don't want to add the wishbone kit to your list of mods, but it does at to the feedback from the suspension and steering to the driver.

Alrighty, I'll do those too then. Thanks for the heads up, and everything else.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by luckyu

Alrighty, I'll do those too then. Thanks for the heads up, and everything else.

You will be significantly closer to the M3 front end geometry with both the tension arms and lower wishbone links!

[BMW_E90]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

Weird. Then maybe I was sent the wrong passenger's side then.
You know, I'm wondering if the strut braces on the M3s with electronic dampening have different parts.

Look at the Passenger's side strut brace. (First Pic).
See how narraow the slot is?

On the Dirver's side, the slot is wider to let the part circled in yellow to fit in the wide area.
On the passenger's side, all slots are narrow.

i think you point them the same direction as the other side. so they both point at the passenger side.

[wadgras44]

Just had the wishbones and tension links installed and there is a quite a difference. Off the bat, I noticed that the slight flex / give I felt in the steering column when jamming the brakes is completely gone. Not sure if others had experienced this with the stock parts or it was just that my bushings were damaged.

Also turn in is now a bit tighter / more precise. The weather sucks here so I can't really pass along any understeer improvement comments at this time.

Thanks to all for the background R&D!

[tomtom]

has anyone done the rear upgrades yet? rear subframe busings and rear guide rod and upper links?
what kind of differences felt in handling?

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by BMW_E90

i think you point them the same direction as the other side. so they both point at the passenger side.

Nope, I've already gone over this.
The Driver's side does not fit on the passenger's side and vice versa.

I have found out that the part number on the passenger's side strut brace ring for EDC cars and non EDC cars is exactly the same.
I'm still keeping in contact with Evan at Tischer about this.

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by wadgras44

Just had the wishbones and tension links installed and there is a quite a difference. Off the bat, I noticed that the slight flex / give I felt in the steering column when jamming the brakes is completely gone. Not sure if others had experienced this with the stock parts or it was just that my bushings were damaged.

Also turn in is now a bit tighter / more precise. The weather sucks here so I can't really pass along any understeer improvement comments at this time.

Thanks to all for the background R&D!

I felt the same thing.
Just wait until the weather gets better; You're going to love it!

Originally Posted by tomtom

has anyone done the rear upgrades yet? rear subframe busings and rear guide rod and upper links?
what kind of differences felt in handling?

I haven't.
My main reason for the front was to create a tighter feel and to prevent as much under steer as possible.
IMO, the rear is fine for my needs.

[BMW_TT]

If the links are a bit longer than the 335i, wouldn't it push out the spindle more?

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by tomtom

has anyone done the rear upgrades yet? rear subframe busings and rear guide rod and upper links?
what kind of differences felt in handling?

Come and drive our 335i!

[stressdoc]

Harold, could you detail how to R&R the rear sub-frame bushings? What kind of press is required? Can it be done with the sub-frame on the car or do you need to remove it to use a hydraulic press?

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by stressdoc

Harold, could you detail how to R&R the rear sub-frame bushings? What kind of press is required? Can it be done with the sub-frame on the car or do you need to remove it to use a hydraulic press?

This job is impossible for a home DIY. You will need to drop the subframe and special BMW bushing tool to remove and install the bushings.

We recommend you have a BMW dealer perform the work.

[stressdoc]

Thanks! What is the special bushing tool?

I'm finally putting in my Quaife and doing suspension work next week at Metric Mechanics, so I figured it would be easier to deal with the rear bushings at the same time, but I want to make sure that Jim & co. have the right tool.

[tomtom]

Originally Posted by HP Autowerks

Come and drive our 335i!

wish i could, but I am about 5 hours by air. I was actually in your city last may. maybe next time I'm in town.
which is an easier install...rear guide rod or upper links?
which give you best bang for buck?

[MuchMoore]

Does this look like all I need to mount up an M3 rear sway bar?

STABILIZER, REAR D=20MM
Qty.1 33552283655

RUBBER BUSHING, ANTIROLL BAR, BOTTOM
Qty.2(realoem says1 , but I think it should be 2) 33552283709

RUBBER BUSHING, ANTIROLL BAR, TOP
Qty.2(realoem says1 , but I think it should be 2) 33552283710

STABILIZER SUPPORT
Qty.2 33552283714

FILLISTER-HEAD SCREW
Qty. 4 07119906077

STABILIZER LINK 2 33556764428
(Same part number as 335)

HEX BOLT WITH WASHER M8X45-8.8-ZNS3 2 07119903931
(Same part number as 335)

HEXAGON NUT WITH COLLAR M10-10 ZNS3 2 10/2007 33326768884
(Same part number as 335)

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by tomtom

wish i could, but I am about 5 hours by air. I was actually in your city last may. maybe next time I'm in town.
which is an easier install...rear guide rod or upper links?
which give you best bang for buck?

Both are just as easy.

Both have benefits, but the guide rods are more important of the two.

[ksfrogman]

Originally Posted by MuchMoore

Does this look like all I need to mount up an M3 rear sway bar?

STABILIZER, REAR D=20MM
Qty.1 33552283655

RUBBER BUSHING, ANTIROLL BAR, BOTTOM
Qty.2(realoem says1 , but I think it should be 2) 33552283709

RUBBER BUSHING, ANTIROLL BAR, TOP
Qty.2(realoem says1 , but I think it should be 2) 33552283710

STABILIZER SUPPORT
Qty.2 33552283714

FILLISTER-HEAD SCREW
Qty. 4 07119906077

STABILIZER LINK 2 33556764428
(Same part number as 335)

HEX BOLT WITH WASHER M8X45-8.8-ZNS3 2 07119903931
(Same part number as 335)

HEXAGON NUT WITH COLLAR M10-10 ZNS3 2 10/2007 33326768884
(Same part number as 335)

That's interesting. The rear sway bar diameter is the same as it is with the H&R rear sway bar. Does the M3 use a larger front stabilizer bar?

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by ksfrogman

That's interesting. The rear sway bar diameter is the same as it is with the H&R rear sway bar. Does the M3 use a larger front stabilizer bar?

No, the M3 front bar is the same as the sport package front bar.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by stressdoc

Thanks! What is the special bushing tool?

I'm finally putting in my Quaife and doing suspension work next week at Metric Mechanics, so I figured it would be easier to deal with the rear bushings at the same time, but I want to make sure that Jim & co. have the right tool.

Only your mechanic knows if he has the correct tool or not. 99% of the independent shops don't have this new tool since it is E8X/9X specific.