[relative4]

Thanks! I think that seals it, the KW V1s look too low for my driving conditions. I do like that wheel/tire size.

[dpaul]

Those ARCs are very, very pretty and the fit looks great

[blau808]

Originally Posted by relative4

Thanks! I think that seals it, the KW V1s look too low for my driving conditions. I do like that wheel/tire size.

Yeah I'd imagine in CO you would need two sets of wheels/tires and the ability to adjust height.

In HI not so much

[dakotap80]

Good to hear that the KW V1's work well. Hawkeye and blau, both those cars look fantastic. Blau, do you notice any adverse effects due to the 255 square tires? I'm considering that width for a summer setup if it fits but I've heard some say it makes the car track funny.

[kenmar]

Originally Posted by dpaul

OP:
I ran on OEM 17" run flats (Conti, can't remember the model), installed square 225/40-18" Conti DW. Profound difference in grip!. Eventually settled for 225/255 staggered 19" Conti DW.

I went from OEM 18" 225/255 RFTs to 19" 235/265 PSS and this was also a profound improvement. However, after having just repaired a bend, I am getting somewhat paranoid about causing more bends. The 19" combo does not appear any harsher than the OEM 18" setup.

Originally Posted by dpaul

OP:
I tried Koni FSD shocks, then Fortune Auto coilovers, then KWV1s. It is to some degree a matter of personal taste and what kind of driving you do. I found the fortune auto struts too stiffly sprung with the recommended spring rates for an urban setting. Nice on a track perhaps. The Koni's alone don't do enough.

My first suspension mod was just Koni yellows and I agree that they don't do enough on their own; you need to address the springs for any noticeable improvement. Next on my mod list is the Dinan springs or H&R Sports. I'm leery of H&R because they were a bit harsh on my E36.

Originally Posted by dpaul

OP:
I also tried poly bushings (front only) which for me made little difference in street driving as long as the original rubber was in good shape. However, there's a great youtube video showing how much better poly is than the hydrobearing at controlling traction struct movement during driving - it's impressive and if I was going to track a lot, I'd have kept the poly. I just got annoyed with the groaning noises it developed.

I disagree. I installed Strong yellow tension strut poly bushings and I found them to be a very cost effective improvement. I do agree with the groaning noises. For me, it was only low speed steering motions which caused some groaning. It didn't squeak, which is more annoying IMO. Surprisingly, the groan has disappeared after 1 year. Another option is monoball thrust arms, but they cost $500 a pair.

The most cost effective handling mod I did was Powerflex rear upper shock mounts. Easy DIY and no strange noises.

Originally Posted by dpaul

OP:
I think most of the remaining instability might be in the rear suspension - it might be beneficial to swap out the rear bushings for aftermarket or M3 pieces. This is somewhat difficult work best done with special tools that can be rented. I'll probably never do it.

I did OEM M3 subframe bushings along with the rear M3 sway bar and rear M3 wishbones and guide rods. Pricey at over $2k, plus I paid for the installation, but I feel it was worth it. The car is well planted now and I'm happy with car's handling.

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by kenmar

I disagree. I installed Strong yellow tension strut poly bushings and I found them to be a very cost effective improvement. I do agree with the groaning noises. For me, it was only low speed steering motions which caused some groaning. It didn't squeak, which is more annoying IMO. Surprisingly, the groan has disappeared after 1 year.

The most cost effective handling mod I did was Powerflex rear upper shock mounts. Easy DIY and no strange noises.

I used the red poly bushings which were less stiff - should have gone with the yellow! Agree, groaning was only at low speed. It just bugged me.

I also replaced the upper rear shock mounts but with a Monroe part number that was reported on this forum somewhere - just not sure how to evaluate because the OEMs that I replaced were nearly destroyed.

[renizer]

I'm really surprised nobody mentioned the alignment yet? For tires, non-RFT for sure and try to run a square set up. I prefer running square rims also so you can switch them around for improved lifetime and wear offset.

[squaredphoto]

Originally Posted by Raptor04

Lol. I haven't found it yet. Best setup I've had to date was coilovers with Fortune auto struts in the front and TC Kline Double Adjustable in the rear with Swift springs all around. Now I'm back on springs and shocks and looking for a good combo. I can tell you the Eibach RWD springs on a 335xi are garbage. I am installing h&r sports this weekend and will report back on how it feels.

What struts / shocks did you have the Eibach springs paired with?

[finallall]

I'm going with the Dinan springs. Are Bilstein B8s nessessary with these springs?

[IN54NITY]

Come up to Louisville on 36 and you can drive my car and ~then~ have a beer. See my signature...

[carguy138]

Do this and you will be impressed. This is my setup after several years of tinkering.

-Michelin Pilot Super Sports
-Dinan Springs
-Dinan “Ride Control” kit
-Koni Yellow Shocks


Front:
-UUC Front Swaybar
-Poly front control arm bushings

Rear:
-BMW OE rear E90 M3 Swaybar
-BMW OE rear E93 M3 subframe brace
-Turner Motorsports Delrin Subframe Bushings
-Turner Motorsports Delrin Differential Bushings
-BMW Group N toe arm bushings


I also had really good results running the staggered tires in reverse (i.e. 255 up front and 225 in rear). With Xdrive on the the race track it feels very neutral and surprisingly predictable.

[renizer]

carguy138 how long have you been running the delrin bushings and are you running them all year round? i wonder how durability is on these things.. also, how much lowered is your car and how much shorter are the Dinan bump stops ("ride control" kit)?

[carguy138]

Originally Posted by renizer

carguy138 how long have you been running the delrin bushings and are you running them all year round? i wonder how durability is on these things.. also, how much lowered is your car and how much shorter are the Dinan bump stops ("ride control" kit)?

Been running them for about 5 months. They essentially bolt the subframe directly to the chassis, and the differential to the subframe. Nothing to wear out and will last the life of the car.

Haven't measured the ride height but it's pretty similar to a standard RWD m-sport.

The delrin subframe bushings didn't change NVH at all. The differential bushings did create a bit of gear whine, but I like it. Makes the car feel a bit more mechanical and not intrusive at all. Although I do have a manual so it may be different with an auto.

Best way to describe the gear whine- sounds a bit like a stock WRX drivetain wise. In terms of comfort, I got rid of the BMW PE exhaust after three years because of the noise. That should give you an idea of what I find tolerable for daily driving.

[kenmar]

Originally Posted by carguy138

Been running them for about 5 months. They essentially bolt the subframe directly to the chassis, and the differential to the subframe. Nothing to wear out and will last the life of the car.

I tried Delrin antisway bar bushings years ago. After driving around for about 1 year, they started to rattle and I took them off. The constant pounding and twisting of driving on bad roads caused them to compress, resulting in a loose fit. Mind you, antisway bar bushings undergo different torsional forces than subframe bushings, so I'm not sure how relevant my experience would be.

[Julian2485]

I have pretty much same mods as kenmar. I'm running the ycw coilovers with swift springs. When doing coilovers you want to keep close to bmw stock spring ratio of 1:3. The Monroe rear shock mounts did make a difference. It got rid of the some of the slop in the rear or i should say bounciness. For tires I'm running 18" staggered setup 225 f 255 r with conti dws 06. I have the differential lock down kit and only thing i would of done differently would of been get solid subframe bushings instead of m3 bushings.

[.RJ]

Originally Posted by dpaul

1) get rid of stock struts- kwv1 coilovers are a conservative choice that will provide modest lowering and a comfortable but controlled ride.

2) get decent, non-all season, non-run flat tires. Continental DW are a relatively inexpensive choice.

These changes made an enormous difference in my 6MT AWD 335

I made the same changes with my E91 along with some syncro design works front LCA's. Night and day compared to stock, it even rides better and more comfortable.

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by .RJ

I made the same changes with my E91 along with some syncro design works front LCA's. Night and day compared to stock, it even rides better and more comfortable.

Those syncro design joints are gorgeous. Do you feel that they add significant noise/vibration?

[335xs2dinan]

Originally Posted by dpaul

Those syncro design joints are gorgeous. Do you feel that they add significant noise/vibration?

they have them for xi?

[dpaul]

https://syncrodesignworks.com/produc...ro-thrust-arms

[.RJ]

Originally Posted by dpaul

Those syncro design joints are gorgeous. Do you feel that they add significant noise/vibration?

Zero added NVH. Great product.

[Julian2485]

Originally Posted by .RJ

Zero added NVH. Great product.

Do you have to worry about greasing them up every now and then ?

[kenmar]

Per the website: "No need for preloading, re-greasing, or adjustments."

There's no doubt about the obvious design advantage over that of a poly bushing, but my concern is the price. For the same $$$, I can R&R with Strongflex bushings three times! And that is paying a shop to do it