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      09-22-2015, 11:40 AM   #1
bmwhitman
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Camshaft sensor inlet fault 2A9A BT Tool

I had a couple slow crank starts where I had to attempt a second time to start my car. I scanned my car and came up with Camshaft sensor inlet fault 2A9A on my BT tool. Do you think it's a dirty Vanos Solenoid that needs cleaning or is it an actual camshaft sensor fault? I only have one fault currently present.
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      09-24-2015, 02:22 PM   #2
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Clear the error codes, swap the sensors, then see if the error code follows the bad sensor. if it does, replace the sensor.If the code recurs on the inlet side after swapping sensors, clean the vanos solenoids and swap them. if the error recurs and follows the inlet solenoid, replace the solenoid.
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      09-24-2015, 03:14 PM   #3
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I replaced the gasket 2 years ago. Would I need to replace them again when I'm cleaning them ? In Canada there like $45 for a set. Kind of pricey for rubber O-Rings.

Could it be a camshaft position sensor problem ? Instead of Vanos Solenoid?
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      09-27-2015, 09:05 PM   #4
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Yes, the procedure I described will check both. you should be fine with your current o-rings
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      10-01-2015, 09:16 PM   #5
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I swapped my VANOS solenoids and the fault did not follow. The fault cameback and still remained in the intake/inlet camshaft sensor position.

Does this mean I need to replace the camshaft sensor? I am experiencing long cranks on my start.

I'm getting the same fault - 2A9A camshaft sensor inlet fault, short circuit or signal interruption.

Any suggestions?
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      10-01-2015, 10:46 PM   #6
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swap the sensors now. If the error follows the sensor, then you know what to do. If not, come back.
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      10-26-2015, 09:57 AM   #7
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BT code 2A9A inlet camshaft sensor fault

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Originally Posted by Meeni View Post
swap the sensors now. If the error follows the sensor, then you know what to do. If not, come back.
I still have the BT code 2A9A camshaft inlet sensor fault. I fully replaced the intake sensor and I still get a fault. The symptoms are a long crank in the morning when I start the car. I would need to remove my key fob a couple of times and restart the car before I can start the engine.

I don't want to continue to throw parts at it. Anyone with an idea of what this could be??
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      10-26-2015, 02:16 PM   #8
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He wasn't saying to replace the inlet sensor, he was saying to swap it with the outlet sensor to see if the fault followed. Have you been erasing codes in between swaps or just reading them?
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      10-26-2015, 07:26 PM   #9
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I swapped my vanos solenoid the first time. I got lazy with the camshaft intake position sensor. I simply bought a new one and put it in. I did clear codes every time.

I'm getting long cranks and failed starts every time the car is cold or at rest. The check engine light comes on intermittently. The BT fault always comes on as a camshaft inlet sensor 2A9A.

Could this be the dreaded camshaft bearing ledge issue ?

Any guidance would be appreciated.
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      10-27-2015, 02:22 AM   #10
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Sorry to hear you misunderstood and actually replaced a perfectly fine sensor.

You battery is in good condition right?

When was last oil change? Filter change? I would inspect the oil filter cap, see if the green bottom o-ring is still in place, the reflux valve in good condition, the filter is not clogged, etc. If the oil is old, replace it, with a new filter. Low oil pressure is known to cause issues.

Have you checked the crankshaft position sensor for oil leaks ?

Then, if all looks fine you can look at the vanos anti-reflux valve (see here http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1096694) , located in the head itself, but first do the easiest and more probable things first.

Last edited by Meeni; 10-27-2015 at 02:35 AM..
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      11-01-2015, 11:43 AM   #11
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The battery is good . Oil filter o ring is good as well .

Why could the crankshaft be a potential issue when it's a camshaft sensor fault ?

Is camshaft bearing ledge a culprit ?

What's a vanos valve? Same as solenoid?
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      12-05-2016, 11:54 PM   #12
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Reviving all threads for 2A9A. Very few people are reporting updates. Here is my story. Make sure your camshaft sensor is seated properly. I replaced it and it was still showing code 2A9A. Also, I was experiencing a long crank and the check engine soon light came on. I took a look at the sensor from the side (using a flashlight) and I was able to see the oring (not suppose to see the oring). DO NOT TIGHTEN THAT LITTLE BOLT. Loosen the bolt and jiggle the sensor until it is seated correctly (no longer can see the oring) then tighten the bolt (not too tight, snug) Car started right up and no more codes are being thrown.
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      02-22-2020, 02:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriztofor View Post
Reviving all threads for 2A9A. Very few people are reporting updates. Here is my story. Make sure your camshaft sensor is seated properly. I replaced it and it was still showing code 2A9A. Also, I was experiencing a long crank and the check engine soon light came on. I took a look at the sensor from the side (using a flashlight) and I was able to see the oring (not suppose to see the oring). DO NOT TIGHTEN THAT LITTLE BOLT. Loosen the bolt and jiggle the sensor until it is seated correctly (no longer can see the oring) then tighten the bolt (not too tight, snug) Car started right up and no more codes are being thrown.

I just want to bump this, again, because it can be something very simple that will drive you crazy for days.......

Thanks Chriztofor for taking the time
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      07-25-2020, 10:16 AM   #14
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I just crossed Over 257k miles and experienced long crank 45 sec rough idle and codes 2A2E and 2A9A. I just moved my car out of the way and took another car to work. When I got home I scanned and reset codes disconnected my battery charger that I was using when scanning codes and it started back up and idled fine. The only difference was ambient temp and humidity. When I had the issue it was 56f and about 90% humidity. When I got home it was 90 and 15% humidity. Any thoughts?
I replaced my Vanos valves a couple years ago and replaced my vanos filters last year. I was considering just ordering a camshaft sensor and see if it repeats.
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      07-25-2020, 01:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richwm View Post
I just crossed Over 257k miles and experienced long crank 45 sec rough idle and codes 2A2E and 2A9A. I just moved my car out of the way and took another car to work. When I got home I scanned and reset codes disconnected my battery charger that I was using when scanning codes and it started back up and idled fine. The only difference was ambient temp and humidity. When I had the issue it was 56f and about 90% humidity. When I got home it was 90 and 15% humidity. Any thoughts?
I replaced my Vanos valves a couple years ago and replaced my vanos filters last year. I was considering just ordering a camshaft sensor and see if it repeats.
Just got her broken eh?

If you lose the camshaft sensor, the VANOS/Valvetronic will just run a defalt map and not strand you. So I'd just see if the fault reappears. Then I'd try the clean and swap routine first, THEN if the code comes back, order the sensor and put it in.

Lately the E90 has been throwing a catalytic code every now and again that only appears when I restart the hot engine a few minutes after shutting it off; like running into the store for a few minutes. I clear the code and the issue doesn't immediately come back. The issue has appeared just 3 times in the past 12 months. The N52 gets a little finnicky as she ages...
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      07-26-2020, 10:08 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Just got her broken eh?

If you lose the camshaft sensor, the VANOS/Valvetronic will just run a defalt map and not strand you. So I'd just see if the fault reappears. Then I'd try the clean and swap routine first, THEN if the code comes back, order the sensor and put it in.

Lately the E90 has been throwing a catalytic code every now and again that only appears when I restart the hot engine a few minutes after shutting it off; like running into the store for a few minutes. I clear the code and the issue doesn't immediately come back. The issue has appeared just 3 times in the past 12 months. The N52 gets a little finnicky as she ages...
So I have had some other random codes pop up every 3-4 months about mixture and never figured it out. I also had some MAF codes and replaced the MAF. But it always has driven fine, it sees redline at least 4-6 times a day. I tend to drive it like I stole it.
How many miles are you up to now hit 400k yet.

Last edited by Richwm; 07-27-2020 at 05:21 AM..
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      07-27-2020, 09:08 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richwm View Post
So I have had some other random codes pop up every 3-4 months about mixture and never figured it out. I also had some MAF codes and replaced the MAF. But it always has driven fine, it sees redline at least 4-6 times a day. I tend to drive it like I stole it.
How many miles are you up to now hit 400k yet.
6,000 more to go. I picked up an E46 cabrio late last year that I have been dropping miles on. I've put 13K on the E46 since September 2019. LOL
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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      07-24-2022, 09:39 AM   #18
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BMW E90 2006 325i

Camshaft sensor inlet fault 2A9A check engine light on showing codes P0012 and P0341.
I replaced both sensors with new ones and here is the night mare.
Very hard start but when it does start is running fine.
Installed old sensors back and same problem. Removed them again cleaned the wholes, inserted a needle into cable's contacts and sprayed contact cleaner.
Reconnected everything and started right away. Running smooth and check engine light is gone. Sometimes a simple bad contact can make you pay hundreds.
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