[6ixSpd]

I successfully managed to modify my stock cluster to have the M style temperature based variable redline sweep. I had to harvest a stepper motor, and backing plate+ the ring gear to make it work. Only minor coding is needed to activate the sweeping redline.

This method avoids any issues using an entire M cluster (ie. unable to write VIN or mileage without special tools), and you retain your appropriate tachometer dial instead of a 9K one on a 7K motor.

Parts needed:

• E9X M3/E6X M5 or M6 instrument cluster.
• New replacement speedometer and tachometer dials from www.venoxy.com (OPTIONAL)
• BMW Standard Tools (ie. INPA) up and running
• Perfekt Toolbox
• misc. torx screwdrivers (T8-T20).
• 1-2 hours of free time

Tasks:

• transfer redline backing plate and ring gear assembly from M cluster to your original cluster
• transfer either backing plate (cruise control or redline) stepper motor and upper gear from M cluster to your original cluster
• activate and adjust the scaling steps for the variable redline via coding

What is not covered:

• removal of the instrument cluster from your car
• disassembling the cluster itself (see the DIY guide HERE)

See the link above to:

• remove the cluster
• remove the needles
• remove the faceplate from the PCB
• solder white LEDs. I chose not to do the LCD panel, just the 6 LEDs each for the speedo and tach (optional, but looks much nicer with the silver backing plates in my opinion)

Let's Begin.

You should now be looking at this:


Notice the speedometer side has a stepper motor and upper gear for the cruise control sweeping backing plate that the non-M tachometer side doesn't have, but the cutout/solder points are already present? This is part 1 of our problem.





We need to transfer this motor and gear over from the M cluster's either cruise control or redline side onto our non-M cluster.

1. On the M3 cluster, carefully pop off the ring gear and remove the two T8 screws, and remove the four solder joints securing the motor to the PCB:
   
   
   
   
   
2. This second stepper motor needs to be soldered on the tachometer side on our non-M cluster, and then the upper gear pushed back on carefully so as to not pop out the small worm gears inside (https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=902668)
   
   Back to our stock faceplate assembly. There is no ring gear behind the tachometer, so there's no way for the redline backing plate to move. It is fixed in place. However, the cutout for the stepper motor's gear is already present here as well.
   
   
   
   Below is the ring gear we need to transfer from the M cluster in the above spot for the redline backing plate.
   
   
   
3. On the back of the clusters, press the tabs in (blue arrows) while pushing down (yellow arrows) to remove the speedo and tach dials:
   
   
   
4. If you are changing the gauge faces, use a blow dryer to assist in peeling the face off the transparent plastic housing. Don't be afraid to peel it off with some oomph, it's rather thick and glued down well. Clean residual adhesive off the plastic housing with an alcohol wipe.
   
   
   
5. Using a permanent red marker, paint the openings of the needles. This helps filter the light to a reddish color, otherwise your needles (if they are red) will wash out to a pinkish color.
   OR transfer your original/custom gauge faces onto the transparent plastic housing off the M cluster as they already have the red needle openings.
   
   
   
   
   
   After removing the dials on both clusters, you'll be left with this:
   
   
   
   
   
6. Flip the faceplate over and press the two tabs in to free the backing plate and ring gear assemblies:
   
   
   
7. Pop it in place on your empty tachometer side, it only goes in one orientation. Repeat for the cruise control side.
8. Spin the redline backing plate clockwise until it reaches the built-in stop point. Spin the cruise control backing plate counter clockwise until it reaches it's stop point.
   
   You should now have the M3 backing plates and ring gears in your original non-m cluster.
   
   
   
9. Re-install the speedo/tach gauge dials, they just pop right in.
10. Re-assemble the faceplate and your PCB board. Again, they just snap together.
11. After gently pushing the needles back on their posts, plug in the cluster (without the lens back on yet) and start the car. Then turn the car off.
    
    The needles should be now adjusted to point to 0. There should be a little resistance from the motors holding them in place, but you should be able to align them to 0. For the cruise control ring which goes behind the speedo turn it so the mark that indicates the cruise control speed is just barely hidden when the car is off.
    
12. Complete the re-assembly of the cluster and connect your coding laptop to the car and fire up Perfekt Toolbox.

Coding:

1. click "Read Everything"
   
2. open the dropdown on the Kombi/Cluster tab in the left column
3. select "Warning Zone"
   
4. SAVE YOUR STOCK SETTINGS BEFORE PROCEEDING!
5. check the "Enabled" box
6. enter the following in the RPM boxes: 5600, 6000, 6200, 6500, 7000
7. enter the following in the Steps boxes: 5500, 4200, 3354, 0, 0
8. set the Warm State to: 7000
9. click "Write to ECU"

Turn the car off, and restart it and enjoy your retrofitted variable redline in your original cluster!

[4 Doors]

This is a great write-up for a mod many of us have been wanting to do without the M3 gauges. Thank you!

[apexit4]

Very nice write up, thanks for taking the time to document it for everyone!

How did you determine what values to put into the RPM and step boxes? I ask because I'm considering doing something similar but I have a 335D. Being a diesel, these values should be different.

[NoGuru]

Very cool!

[IllSic_Design]

Great write up, will definitely be doing this if I can find a cheap M3 cluster or the parts!

[LMB335IS]

Nicely done, good DIY. The only catch is finding a non working M3 cluster for parts. It's not very cost effective to tear up a good M3 cluster.

But if you guys are going to tear up good M3 clusters I might be interested in the leftover parts.

[6ixSpd]

Glad to help, guys!

Originally Posted by apexit4

Very nice write up, thanks for taking the time to document it for everyone!

How did you determine what values to put into the RPM and step boxes? I ask because I'm considering doing something similar but I have a 335D. Being a diesel, these values should be different.

I played around with the Toolbox quite a bit to figure out how many steps corresponded to the total cold start RPM (I think it goes to 5600 RPM when totally cold on the M3 cluster). So I tested it against my non-M tach to see where approximately that would fall since the scale is different. For my 7K tach, it turned out to be at 5500 steps to line up at 4500 RPM. I realize it doesn't matter how much the rest of the steps are for the rest of the higher RPM ranges, as long as your final Warm Temp RPM is set to 0 steps.

Key point: the RPMs discussed for the scaling are with respect to where the yellow part of the redline starts, not the red part.

Ie. The M3's 5600 RPM cold start range effectively means the yellow is at 5600, which means the red part is actually 6000. And this is actually exact how the M3's redline looks when cold.

I don't know how accurate the scaling goes from there, it's certainly not tied to oil temp. Even on the M cars, the oil temp is still rather low yet the variable redline moves to the warm temp way too soon...

If I discover any more info on the steps and scaling to slow it down, I'll update the thread.

Originally Posted by LMB335IS

Nicely done, good DIY. The only catch is finding a non working M3 cluster for parts. It's not very cost effective to tear up a good M3 cluster.

But if you guys are going to tear up good M3 clusters I might be interested in the leftover parts.

I agree, it would be cost prohibitive.

Interestingly enough, you can use another non-M cluster to harvest the cruise control stepper, ring gear, and backing plate.

But then you have to make a new printed sticker for the yellow and red portion. Certainly doable though, as the hardware is 100% identical. The M3 specific backing plates just has a different print.

[Speedy_12139]

Why not just....

Buy a working m3 cluster. Swap the eeprom chip, and code?

I mean. You already do soldering with this job.... Soooo? Unless I'm way off

[6ixSpd]

Also, if anyone has a M3 cluster retrofitted to their non-M and also has the coding cable and software, please send me a PM!

I have a small request regarding the scaling that is super straight forward.

[Phil325i]

Quick question: does this mod just shift the position of the rev limit markers in the dial, or does it actually change the operation of when the rev limiter kicks in to a lower limit?

[LMB335IS]

Originally Posted by 6ixSpd

Also, if anyone has a M3 cluster retrofitted to their non-M and also has the coding cable and software, please send me a PM!

I have a small request regarding the scaling that is super straight forward.

PM'ed

[6ixSpd]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

Quick question: does this mod just shift the position of the rev limit markers in the dial, or does it actually change the operation of when the rev limiter kicks in to a lower limit?

It's l superficial. The actual limiter/fuel cutoff remains where it is, there's no way to make that dynamic.

Originally Posted by LMB335IS

PM'ed

Replied, thanks!

[bluewater328]

So part of this is the custom faceplate which I dig. But correct me if I'm wrong: Don't the gauges do the same thing (I know LCI does), just with 5 white lines instead of the red colored circle/arc? The variable redline is based on operating temperature, correct?

Would an easier or comparable way be getting an LCI setup and changing the revline wheel? I know VIN issues would still be the same if you're swapping completely.

Or is this the startup sequence sweep for show that this really accomplishes (vs temp based positioning)?

[6ixSpd]

LCI or not, the stock redline does not move. No idea where you're getting that from.

Read my post in full, the explanation is already there.

[4 Doors]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

So part of this is the custom faceplate which I dig. But correct me if I'm wrong: Don't the gauges do the same thing (I know LCI does), just with 5 white lines instead of the red colored circle/arc? The variable redline is based on operating temperature, correct?

Would an easier or comparable way be getting an LCI setup and changing the revline wheel? I know VIN issues would still be the same if you're swapping completely.

Or is this the startup sequence sweep for show that this really accomplishes (vs temp based positioning)?

The LCI cluster does not vary the Redline, if I'm not mistaken. What 6ixSpd has done is taken the M3 style cluster/stepper motor and wheel and placed it on a non-M cluster to mimic the M3's variable Redline. The Redline moves based on operating temperature (ex: startup vs warmed up).

Someone correct me if I am wrong. This is how I understood it.

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by 4 Doors

The LCI cluster does not vary the Redline, if I'm not mistaken. What 6ixSpd has done is taken the M3 style cluster/stepper motor and wheel and placed it on a non-M cluster to mimic the M3's variable Redline. The Redline moves based on operating temperature (ex: startup vs warmed up).

Someone correct me if I am wrong. This is how I understood it.

I'll show you my LCI cluster (attached). But it is there and you can see it is setup similar to the cruise control speed marker.

There is no "trick" startup sequence where it does a "test race" — similar how cars like the STi used to do a fake rev gauge race at startup.

Incidentally, time to his Vegas or Macao (see milage)

[LMB335IS]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

I'll show you my LCI cluster (attached). But it is there and you can see it is setup similar to the cruise control speed marker.

There is no "trick" startup sequence where it does a "test race" — similar how cars like the STi used to do a fake rev gauge race at startup.

Incidentally, time to his Vegas or Macao (see milage)

That ring behind the tach face is fixed. It's held in place by tabs and has no teeth to be moved by a stepper motor. It can't even be modified to be used. The M3 piece is designed to do just that making it the only viable way to accomplish this on a non M cluster

[Seanjohn004]

Thank you i may try this

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by 4 Doors

The LCI cluster does not vary the Redline, if I'm not mistaken. What 6ixSpd has done is taken the M3 style cluster/stepper motor and wheel and placed it on a non-M cluster to mimic the M3's variable Redline. The Redline moves based on operating temperature (ex: startup vs warmed up).

Someone correct me if I am wrong. This is how I understood it.

Originally Posted by LMB335IS

That ring behind the tach face is fixed. It's held in place by tabs and has no teeth to be moved by a stepper motor. It can't even be modified to be used. The M3 piece is designed to do just that making it the only viable way to accomplish this on a non M cluster

Originally Posted by 6ixSpd

LCI or not, the stock redline does not move. No idea where you're getting that from.

Read my post in full, the explanation is already there.

Gotcha, roger that.

Originally Posted by 6ixSpd

Glad to help, guys!

....
Interestingly enough, you can use another non-M cluster to harvest the cruise control stepper, ring gear, and backing plate.

But then you have to make a new printed sticker for the yellow and red portion. Certainly doable though, as the hardware is 100% identical. The M3 specific backing plates just has a different print.

I found this to be the most interesting. If you're doing custom work anyway, might be an easier find at the junkyard.

I thought I saw it somewhere, but do you have a DIY for the oil-temp coding?

[colorado.e9x]

Could you just recode and swap gauges to a virginized m3 cluster?

[LMB335IS]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

Could you just recode and swap gauges to a virginized m3 cluster?

What would be the point if you already have a virginized M3 cluster? Once you default code it to your car it all works correctly. Speedo and oil temp scaling is correct. If you wanted to move the variable redline cold start point you would use Perfekt Toolbox to adjust it.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by LMB335IS

What would be the point if you already have a virginized M3 cluster? Once you default code it to your car it all works correctly. Speedo and oil temp scaling is correct. If you wanted to move the variable redline cold start point you would use Perfekt Toolbox to adjust it.

Thats what I was thinking. Was just curious.