[The Nightman]

Originally Posted by Wrenchin

Also chip tuning: I'm a bit boggled by the tuning options out there, I'm a middle-aged dad that inherited this car and having fun working in the garage, I'm not looking for crazy low gas mileage extreme reflashing, but to just get my 40hp out of this upgrade. I see module mail-in reflash, ASDL/usb reflash, go to a local guy/dealer options - honestly, what's the cheapest, most reliable/low risk flash option?

Look into the free 330i tune from BimmerLabs and see if it's within your capabilities. The flashing process is more or less fool proof, but it's a bit of a process to set up the required programs. Alternatively, you can look into remote coding and have someone else install the programs and flash your car.

[Wrenchin]

Originally Posted by freedomfries

Look into the free 330i tune from BimmerLabs and see if it's within your capabilities. The flashing process is more or less fool proof, but it's a bit of a process to set up the required programs. Alternatively, you can look into remote coding and have someone else install the programs and flash your car.

Perfect! just what I needed. Well within my wheelhouse. I'll do some research to see if it's worth it to flash it first before I get the manifold (or if it'll be unhappy with no disa to flap around).

Thanks

[smass]

Originally Posted by Wrenchin

Thanks for setting this up, I'm pretty stoked to get such a big gain on a 325xi N52 with this mod, and will start to collect parts.

This thread is 30+ pages, do we have a current breakdown of tips and tricks? The physical swapout shouldn't be too bad, my car is 85k miles and has starter replaced, but is there a list of "while you're in there" stuff to check/replace?

Also chip tuning: I'm a bit boggled by the tuning options out there, I'm a middle-aged dad that inherited this car and having fun working in the garage, I'm not looking for crazy low gas mileage extreme reflashing, but to just get my 40hp out of this upgrade. I see module mail-in reflash, ASDL/usb reflash, go to a local guy/dealer options - honestly, what's the cheapest, most reliable/low risk flash option?

Sidebar - I am not looking forward to the oil pan gasket, which is leaking.

The simplest fiash is the bimmerlabs free 330i flash. Set up an account there and read all the help files.

As for the install, check your heater hoses under the air filter box. They can get soft from previous oil leaks. They are much easier to change with the intake out of the way. Then check "new to you" disa valves before you install them. You can do this with your current car's setup. The flash does not need to be done to test the disa with inpa. This video is my stock 325i testing the valves.

[Wrenchin]

Originally Posted by smass

The simplest fiash is the bimmerlabs free 330i flash. Set up an account there and read all the help files.

As for the install, check your heater hoses under the air filter box. They can get soft from previous oil leaks. They are much easier to change with the intake out of the way. Then check "new to you" disa valves before you install them. You can do this with your current car's setup. The flash does not need to be done to test the disa with inpa. This video is my stock 325i testing the valves.

Awesome, thank you. Oil filter housing not too bad, so hopefully heater hoses in good shape but I will check. Found a $170 manifold on eBay, has small disa, as a mechanic I don't think I'd install a used part like that even if it did work, but depending on condition and ease of access for replacement I might just let it slide.

Signed up to Blabs and downloaded what I think I need, I'll dig into the exact procedure oncei have a cable - I've got an ancient USB/asdl cable but if firmware is an issue for bricking modules it's probably worth the $45 for a new cable.

[nsjames]

buy the bimmergeeks cable.

don't worry about it.

and make sure you have a battery tender that can push enough amps to keep the car stable for 30 minutes or so.
FWIW mine shows about 15 amps sitting with everything I can turn off turned off.

[Wrenchin]

Originally Posted by nsjames

buy the bimmergeeks cable.

don't worry about it.

and make sure you have a battery tender that can push enough amps to keep the car stable for 30 minutes or so.
FWIW mine shows about 15 amps sitting with everything I can turn off turned off.

Ok cool thanks - just to clarify - a battery tender because I'm disconnecting the battery for the manifold work? Old cars by default I'd just yank the cable, do the work and then reset the radio clock. The more complex the cars get, the less I pull the battery unless I'm in direct danger of getting mangled. I'm used to working on live equipment in the marine industry while a vessel is underway... If I recall there's a positive line that goes to the jump post in the engine bay and then to the starter? Do you guys ever just pull that connection?

[nsjames]

no, something to keep the voltage stable while you're flashing the car.

if the battery fades while it's all powered up and you're writing data to the DME you risk bricks.

pull the battery for the mechanical work.
hook to charger for flashing.

fwiw I have this charger and it's worked to flash several things and cars.

https://www.amazon.com/STANLEY-BC25B...s%2C167&sr=8-1

they've apparently gone up in price, used to be like $50. doesn't seem to have any kind of auto shutoff, will happily keep a car powered up with the ignition on for hours.

[Wrenchin]

Originally Posted by nsjames

no, something to keep the voltage stable while you're flashing the car.

if the battery fades while it's all powered up and you're writing data to the DME you risk bricks.

pull the battery for the mechanical work.
hook to charger for flashing.

fwiw I have this charger and it's worked to flash several things and cars.

https://www.amazon.com/STANLEY-BC25B...s%2C167&sr=8-1

they've apparently gone up in price, used to be like $50. doesn't seem to have any kind of auto shutoff, will happily keep a car powered up with the ignition on for hours.

Wow I never thought that would be a risk. I'll have to revist the Blabs protocols for how long the flash should take - apparently it's longer than I assumed. I've got a standard battery trickle/starter rig similar to your post, just 40 years old. I'll do some research to make sure there isn't an overamperage or "dirty" power risk for the one I have.

Thanks for the input!

[hassmaschine]

you're not going to brick your DME if the battery dies. It would be inconvenient, but the main boot sector is never overwritten or erased.

A charger is not necessary IMO, and I've flashed a lot of cars. The program flash does not take long enough (10-15 minutes or so) to kill the battery (just turn off your lights/fan/radio). The tune itself only takes 30 seconds. We've even purposefully written garbage data or switched off the power, and WinKFP will still reflash it.

[nsjames]

you would know better.


but why not just avoid all of it by hooking it to a battery charger?

[Wrenchin]

Originally Posted by nsjames

you would know better.


but why not just avoid all of it by hooking it to a battery charger?

My dad cooked the first replacement battery by not registering it to the car, there's a pyrotechnic gulliotine on the main positive line and a ton of computers in this car - the less risks I take with shorts, over/under voltage and current backfeeding the better I figure. Not using the car for commute right now and if I screw something up I've got y'alls fantastic knowledge base to work with.

3 stage IM due to arrive tomorrow with little disa.
Will check disa, order big disa, bolts and gaskets -6 rings and a TB gasket
Get Blabs cable, install winkp and ipla, check functionality, install and flash dme.
Oh - and check my heater hoses for degradation (starter replaced already).
It's like Legos for big kids.

Thanks gents!

[Mantraxalos]

Originally Posted by smass

The simplest fiash is the bimmerlabs free 330i flash. Set up an account there and read all the help files.

As for the install, check your heater hoses under the air filter box. They can get soft from previous oil leaks. They are much easier to change with the intake out of the way. Then check "new to you" disa valves before you install them. You can do this with your current car's setup. The flash does not need to be done to test the disa with inpa. This video is my stock 325i testing the valves.

Smass, I thought both valves were supposed to be closed at rest. The video appears to show the small close when activated. The large opens when activated. Is that how it's supposed to go?

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by nsjames

you would know better.


but why not just avoid all of it by hooking it to a battery charger?

Because it's not needed - I have never done so. I have lost count how many times I've flashed my car. You're free to take the precaution, of course. There's just a lot of superstition about how flashing actually works.

[carscatscoffee15]

Originally Posted by Wrenchin

Awesome, thank you. Oil filter housing not too bad, so hopefully heater hoses in good shape but I will check. Found a $170 manifold on eBay, has small disa, as a mechanic I don't think I'd install a used part like that even if it did work, but depending on condition and ease of access for replacement I might just let it slide.

Signed up to Blabs and downloaded what I think I need, I'll dig into the exact procedure oncei have a cable - I've got an ancient USB/asdl cable but if firmware is an issue for bricking modules it's probably worth the $45 for a new cable.

And it's also worth getting new DISAs for piece of mind.. but that was just me

not complete necessary but it'll squeeze a bit more life out of the parts (especially since they are moving pieces)

[JuniorB]

If anyone is looking for a 3stage, I have one complete with a KN drop in filter, no damage, came off my n52. I done a n54 motor swap, and would like to see this go to a good home.

[200,000 club]

Originally Posted by JuniorB

If anyone is looking for a 3stage, I have one complete with a KN drop in filter, no damage, came off my n52. I done a n54 motor swap, and would like to see this go to a good home.

What state are you in?

[tylerhart_21]

With getting the stage three intake manifold should I get it tuned the soon or is it ok to wait? (I don't what it to kill my gas mileage and make sure I have the power as well)

[tylerhart_21]

Also with the Disa valves is there a way to test them and know if they are good. Also with the Disa valves is there a cheaper option then the OEM ones cause they are a lot of money . (I have 17 year old money)

[vilord]

I ran with the 3 stage intake and no tune for almost a year. Felt like it had slightly reduced power in the middle rpms, but not noticeable in normal driving.

Disa test is an ISTA/inpa test, but it won't tell you if they're definitely working, only if they're definitely broken. If you run the disa test before you install the intake you can look at them and see them turn.

[Skoidat69]

Originally Posted by tylerhart_21

Also with the Disa valves is there a way to test them and know if they are good. Also with the Disa valves is there a cheaper option then the OEM ones cause they are a lot of money . (I have 17 year old money)

Originally Posted by tylerhart_21

Also with the Disa valves is there a way to test them and know if they are good. Also with the Disa valves is there a cheaper option then the OEM ones cause they are a lot of money . (I have 17 year old money)

I would just buy big and small rebuild kits and take your time rebuilding them.: aluminum gate and spindle .. not gonna break anytime soon.. BimmerLabs tune is fantastic and free

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by Skoidat69

I would just buy big and small rebuild kits and take your time rebuilding them.: aluminum gate and spindle .. not gonna break anytime soon.. BimmerLabs tune is fantastic and free

I worry about the worm drive more than the spindle (new ones actually have metal ones for the large DISA). That and apparently people are having a hard time getting the acid to seal the two sides back up.

[Skoidat69]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

I worry about the worm drive more than the spindle (new ones actually have metal ones for the large DISA). That and apparently people are having a hard time getting the acid to seal the two sides back up.

A healthy amount of epoxy and clamps