[Coupes33]

I have got my car back on the road. I ended up doing a similar mod as Brule i.e. used a stainless steel zip tie to pull down the bend in the outlet away from the steering shaft. I wasn't as successful as Brule as I didn't remove the outlet to drill the holes required and I only used one 8mm wide zip tie. The steering shaft still just touches the actual zip tie but the restriction on the shaft has been eliminated which was the objective of the exercise.
The process I used was as follows. Firstly, I removed the self taping bolt that secures the heat shielding material to the inner guard that is located under the middle of the steering shaft. Once removed, there is a hole into the chassis rail.

Then, I removed the rear section of the DS front wheel arch lining. This is straight forward after removing the wheel. From inside the wheel arch
, you will find a rubber bung just behind the strut which when removed you can see the hole where the self taping screw came out of. I drilled a10mm hole approx. 6cm to the left and inline with the centre of the hole where the rubber bung was removed. This hole lines up with the self taping screw hole on the other side so I used the drill to increase the hole diameter to 10mm.



I couldn't find a hole in the area of the battery cable where Brule found one so I drilled a 10mm hole just left of that area as shown in the photos. I used a 8mm X 520mm stainless steel zip tie purchased from Bunnings - Electrical area, to pull down the outlet. As Brule and Hoper mentioned, before installing the outlet, it would be beneficial to hammer down the heat shielding as much as possible to gain some more space.

If I install the M3 steering shaft, I will certainly get clearance from the outlet now that it is tied down. I will see how it goes the way I have it at present before deciding whether to use the M3 steering shaft.

[DR-JEKL]

Nice work coupes, shame it's caused you this much of a headache!!

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

Nice work coupes, shame it's caused you this much of a headache!!

Thanks Shane. The issue that is causing the problem with these outlets rubbing on the steering shaft, is holy and solely where the outlet goes over the lip on the chassis rail. There is plenty of space under the bend in the outlet near the steering shaft for the outlet to lay giving it plenty of space from the shaft but where the outlet bends over the chassis rail lip, it is forcing the outlet up into the shaft. If another bend was put into the outlet where it goes over the lip, the problem IMO would be solved. Flattening the heat shielding would also be recommended. Anyway, mine is going again so I can now concentrate on getting the tune right and the M3 diff ready for installation.

[iliketurtl3s]

Diy steering column? Cut and use a thinner metal beam.

Would have to be welded straight.

[Coupes33]

My problem with the steering shaft clearing the outlet has been solved. The solution is so simple, it is embarrassing to mention. While in discussion with someone at Advan Performance about my issue, the question was asked whether I had tried adjusting the steering wheel up or down. Before than, no one had mentioned this and I hadn't even given it a thought. I am 183cm tall and normally, have the steering wheel adjusted at a high position. I went out and adjusted the steering wheel down a bit where it was still acceptable to me and presto, the steering shaft went up and it is now clear of the outlet by 4mm. Now that this has been solved, I can now focus back on the tune refinement and M3 rear end install.

[Coupes33]

The main points that I have uncovered in my experience of installing the RB Hotside Silicone Outlets are as follows:
- To install the rear turbo section of the silicone outlet under the steering shaft, you need as much space as possible so lower the steering wheel to the lowest possible position so that the steering shaft is raised as far as possible.
- If more space is required, you can jack the front of the car up, remove the cover under the engine bay, remove the 2 bolts and nuts that secure the steering rack to the front crossmember and push the steering rack across towards the ODS of the car. This action will move the steering shaft further away from the inner guard allowing more space for the installation of the silicone outlet.
- Once the silicone outlet is pushed onto the outlet of the rear turbo, try rotating the silicone outlet both ways to get the bend in the silicone outlet under the steering shaft to move downwards away from the shaft and then clamp the outlet to the turbo.
- Once this action has been achieved, place the steering rack back in place and install the bolts and nuts. Torque bolts to 41ft/lbs. Reinstall cover under engine bay.
- Now adjust the height of the steering wheel so that a gap is maintained between the steering shaft and the silicone outlet. To achieve this gap and a suitable driving position, it may require adjusting the height of the driver's seat as well.

[Hoper]

Originally Posted by Coupes33

My problem with the steering shaft clearing the outlet has been solved. The solution is so simple, it is embarrassing to mention. While in discussion with someone at Advan Performance about my issue, the question was asked whether I had tried adjusting the steering wheel up or down. Before than, no one had mentioned this and I hadn't even given it a thought. I am 183cm tall and normally, have the steering wheel adjusted at a high position. I went out and adjusted the steering wheel down a bit where it was still acceptable to me and presto, the steering shaft went up and it is now clear of the outlet by 4mm. Now that this has been solved, I can now focus back on the tune refinement and M3 rear end install.

Wow, I never noticed that moving the stwering wheel height also moved the shaft in thw engine bay, I assumed there was another knuckle on the cabin side of the firewall

Nice one Coupes

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by Hoper

Wow, I never noticed that moving the stwering wheel height also moved the shaft in thw engine bay, I assumed there was another knuckle on the cabin side of the firewall

Nice one Coupes

Yes, I wish I got onto this solution earlier as it would have saved me a week of frustration.

[DR-JEKL]

did you install the m3 steering shaft (did it make any difference?)

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

did you install the m3 steering shaft (did it make any difference?)

No, as the original steering shaft has clearance from the outlet now, I haven't installed the M3 shaft. Next time I remove the downpipes or when I get board and what something to do, I may change it over. There is no need at present. Once installed, it would add an additional 5mm clearance as the narrow section of the M3 shaft is 20mm OD compared to 30mm OD for the 335 item. As you have a M3 steering rack and shaft, you would have no issues with fitting RB silicone outlets to your new turbos Shane.

[gmx]

Good to hear that's sorted...

On the subject of hardpipes and outlets, has anybody tried these on RHD:
https://fasterbypinnacle.com/product/n54-335-hcp/

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by gmx

Good to hear that's sorted...

On the subject of hardpipes and outlets, has anybody tried these on RHD:
https://fasterbypinnacle.com/product/n54-335-hcp/

Do they make them for RHD? The outlets shown would be for LHD. The pipe size would be a large improvement over the OEM outlet but how they would get a pipe around the steering shaft would be the issue. Hopefully, Dr Jekl will get one fabricated.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by gmx

Good to hear that's sorted...

On the subject of hardpipes and outlets, has anybody tried these on RHD:
https://fasterbypinnacle.com/product/n54-335-hcp/

Yeah ive seen em and like them but not compatiable with RHD..

I contacted Dusty from PSP to see if I could buy one of their split pipes and mod to uit RHD he wasnt interested really..

So I'll attempt to fab a RHD type compatiable hardpipe early 2018 when fitting my VTT GC lites.

RHD outlet oem:





LHD:

[Rob@RBTurbo]

This was an interesting case and glad to see that it was worked out with a relatively easy fix when said and done. Certainly was a REAL big head scratcher as no one had reported such issues out of many of these outlets shipped to date, only more and more ordering them up!

Rob

[gmx]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

So I'll attempt to fab a RHD type compatiable hardpipe early 2018 when fitting my VTT GC lites.

From scratch?
If you no longer need your OEM RHD one, let me know. Looks like a cut and shut job will do for me.

A long time ago, actually a year now I called up Lynton BMW and the guy who prepares the cars and one other production car 1M said they just use the LHD part. I have no idea if that's bs or if it's remotely close to fitting.

[Coupes33]

The following statement from Rob Beck is a good guide to whether you need after market outlets or not.

"We have long time suggested that outlets should be the last thing to buy unless you are RHD (due to the crunched up rear turbo pipe) or are simply pumping out big power (equipped with upgraded turbos).

A LHD 135/335/535 making under 500rwhp is not going to see much improvements, and I'd expect as you climb upward of 525rwhp mark is where the benefits will begin to shine. Once the inlet craze died down the masses were thinking the outlets were going to be the next craze- but this is not the case. Inlets over outlets every time.

In short with OEM turbos on a LHD car just run the OE outlets, unless you just like the idea of modding or want every slightest edge imaginable.

Rob"

I agree with this as I only ran the OEM outlets with my RB Classic turbos and still managed a 11.2s run. Unless you are looking for real big power stick to the OEM outlets.

[T1M]

Do you know what kind of power you were making on a dyno with the old turbos Coupes?

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by T1M

Do you know what kind of power you were making on a dyno with the old turbos Coupes?

When I was running the PTF E60 custom tune with the RB Classic turbos, I put it on the Real Dyno Performance mainline dyno and it put out 383rwkw. I haven't had it on a dyno since but I am contacting Duck next week about getting it on his dyno to see what the output is now with the Super RB Evo's.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by gmx

From scratch?
If you no longer need your OEM RHD one, let me know. Looks like a cut and shut job will do for me.

A long time ago, actually a year now I called up Lynton BMW and the guy who prepares the cars and one other production car 1M said they just use the LHD part. I have no idea if that's bs or if it's remotely close to fitting.

My oem item will probably be spoken for already sorry.

Yeah I remember someone (most likely you) mentioning this. Yes the usa isnt crushed like ours, but yeah surprised that it fits

[N54Trnsfmr]

[QUOTE=DR-JEKL;22519835]Yeah ive seen em and like them but not compatiable with RHD..

I contacted Dusty from PSP to see if I could buy one of their split pipes and mod to uit RHD he wasnt interested really..

So I'll attempt to fab a RHD type compatiable hardpipe early 2018 when fitting my VTT GC lites.



Hi, I'm new here and just jumped on this discussion. Im very interested in a hard pipe solution to the constricted factory option. Are you going ahead with this?

[DR-JEKL]

[QUOTE=N54Trnsfmr;22777784]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

Yeah ive seen em and like them but not compatiable with RHD..

I contacted Dusty from PSP to see if I could buy one of their split pipes and mod to uit RHD he wasnt interested really..

So I'll attempt to fab a RHD type compatiable hardpipe early 2018 when fitting my VTT GC lites.



Hi, I'm new here and just jumped on this discussion. Im very interested in a hard pipe solution to the constricted factory option. Are you going ahead with this?

Yeah I'll be doing a hardpipe outlet. Ive had my VTT GC Lites since Dec 17 been waiting for the fkn VRSF Race FMIC to ship since then (they reckon this week it'll ship from the usa) Once the FMIC arrives the turbo install will commence!

What turbos and FMIC do you have?

My fabricator said its kinda impossible to quote how much 2-3-4 sets will be he'll know once he does mine what the cost will be and if its worthwhile to replicatea few more sets.

The other complication is everyone will have different FMIC options and a hardpipe kit is less forgiving in terms of fitment so this could be an issue also to start doing kits?

[Coupes33]

[QUOTE=DR-JEKL;22779701]

Originally Posted by N54Trnsfmr

The other complication is everyone will have different FMIC options and a hardpipe kit is less forgiving in terms of fitment so this could be an issue also to start doing kits?

If the hard pipe finished in a similar position to the OEM item, I would have thought, the use of various sized silicon adaptors should solve any mating with a FMIC regardless of the inlet diameter.