|
|
|
|
|
|
BMW Garage | BMW Meets | Register | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
|
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
>
H&R Springs Install DIY (finally)
|
|
04-03-2016, 06:23 PM | #177 |
Lieutenant General
2146
Rep 10,176
Posts |
I had two different kinds of spring compressors (I actaully have three different kinds), nad only used the one that you see me using. Good to see this thread still getting use after so many years!! I'm 4 BMWs past this car, at this point.
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-03-2016, 06:39 PM | #178 |
Major
167
Rep 1,416
Posts |
Lol ya man, thanks for the diy. I tried getting rid of the car. I couldnt do it. I love this thing. Even though at times i wantto deive it off a cliff. And having no car payment is nice.
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-06-2016, 12:49 AM | #181 |
Private First Class
24
Rep 173
Posts |
I am doing H&R on my 335xi right now, so I have a few questions on the rear
Do we re use the lower rubber spring purge ? Does the rear ajustble spring purge sit on top (near the body ) or on the bottom ( near the lower spring purge ) ? Cant seem to figure this out in any of the DYI Help.... |
Appreciate
0
|
05-06-2016, 08:27 AM | #182 | |
Lieutenant General
2146
Rep 10,176
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-06-2016, 09:37 AM | #183 |
Private First Class
24
Rep 173
Posts |
Thanks I think i got this, appreciate the help.
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-26-2016, 08:16 PM | #184 |
Private First Class
9
Rep 166
Posts |
Just completed this mod using Eibachs on a 07 335i base model From Canada. Did springs only as my struts were new so will wait it out.
There is lot of info out there but this was the best write up. Feel free to pm me with any questions at all. Couple notes In the front No need to remove the bolt holding the shock base , just unclip the brakes lines from the bracket and from the square casing. In the back you need to loosen the other end of the control arm. -b |
Appreciate
0
|
05-22-2017, 06:54 AM | #185 |
New Member
0
Rep 7
Posts |
Used this post for the first time this past weekend, of course I did it outside on the hottest day of the year.
For the rears I only had to remove the outer bolt, sway bay link and that pesky headlight sensor. Both sides took a little over two hours, I only have one hydraulic jack so I had to screw with jack stand placement. For the fronts I decided to remove the entire strut which turned out to be very simple, I was worried about scratching the fender and I think it would have been a pain to change out the spring while the strut was still in the knuckle. Much easier working on the strut/spring while it was on the bench. I already had koni struts that came with the car, a little PB blast and those suckers slid right out. For the record, I only removed the sway bar link, cinch bolt that holds the strut, control arm bolt and the top three strut nuts (oh and the front headlight adjuster can be removed by unclipping, the rears had a 10mm bolt that seemed to go on forever). I did compress the springs before I remove the strut. I found if you unbolted everything, it was easier to access the strut and manipulate the spring compressors. Fronts took about 3 hours but with lots of breaks since I started out in the shade for the rears but ended up in the sun when it came time to do the fronts. Thanks for the great post and all of the contributors. |
Appreciate
0
|
08-10-2017, 08:00 PM | #186 |
Registered
1
Rep 4
Posts |
Quick note to save everyone from getting hung up on the inside or outside bolt debate for the rear control arm. YOU CANNOT get the control arm to swing down with enough clearance by removing the outer bolt IF THE PARKING BRAKE IS ENGAGED. After driving myself crazy over what I was doing wrong I lucked out on a google search and found a post pointing this out. Sure enough, as soon as I disengaged the parking brake the arm swung down and the spring came out. Should be added to all suspension DIYs.
|
Appreciate
0
|
10-10-2017, 10:49 AM | #187 |
Private First Class
26
Rep 140
Posts |
"Place the jack back under the control arm and jack it up enough to get the bolt (that you removed in step 6) started back in the control arm mount. You'll notice that the control arm is twisted, adn you can't get it to come out the other side. Thanks ok. Lower the jack, and place the block of wood on the jack so you can align the other side of the control arm mount. Tap the bolt in the rest of the way, and tighten. "
so I have this same problem. I cant get the control arm back in because it twists when you jack it back up (unable to get the bolt back into the hub bushings). placing a wood on jackpad is all you need to prevent the twist??? its hard to believe. anyone know what he means by that? |
Appreciate
0
|
02-07-2019, 07:35 PM | #188 |
Private
2
Rep 50
Posts
Drives: 335i 6spd
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Houston
|
I'm also having trouble lining everything up to reinstall the bolt on the rear. I'm gonna try the piece of wood on top of jack pad in the morning. It somewhat makes sense.
|
Appreciate
0
|
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|