[Joebie]

Originally Posted by PORTMOODY

are the pistons actually damaged or did the valves just clean off the carbon?

Depends on your definition of damaged I guess... they're lightly scratched in places, but nothing really beyond that.

[Joebie]

I know there's a million threads on this but I'm thinking about putting my car back together with a 3-stage intake manifold instead of my boring stock one.

Can I just buy one from any old N51 car and slap it on there? Or are there other parts needed? Does the 3IM use the same PCV hose as my stock intake mani?

Thanks!

[W37V]

Originally Posted by Joester

I know there's a million threads on this but I'm thinking about putting my car back together with a 3-stage intake manifold instead of my boring stock one.

Can I just buy one from any old N51 car and slap it on there? Or are there other parts needed? Does the 3IM use the same PCV hose as my stock intake mani?

Thanks!

Yes, you can. Nothing special to it. car-part.com

[Joebie]

Originally Posted by W37V

Yes, you can. Nothing special to it. car-part.com

Awesome, thanks my dude.

Figure I'm already spending all this money why not make it a little bit faster than when it died!

[Joebie]

Alriiiiight I gots me an N51 intake manifold off of a 2011 with 33k miles SHIPPED for $165. Tight.

[CTinline-six]

Sucks about the old engine but awesome progress and pictures.

[PORTMOODY]

why not do the milvs too. Will be easy to get the valve cover off of your new engine if it hasn't gone in yet.

[Joebie]

Originally Posted by PORTMOODY

why not do the milvs too. Will be easy to get the valve cover off of your new engine if it hasn't gone in yet.

I haven't received the new engine yet. It'll probably be a week or so I'd guess.

I don't really have a good answer for you. Money mainly, also slight fear of messing up something during install. The number of rollers and lifters and things lining up just right on that intake cam is pretty intimidating.

You are right that if I'm gonna do it, now's the time.

Now you got me thinking.

[W37V]

Originally Posted by Joester

I haven't received the new engine yet. It'll probably be a week or so I'd guess.

I don't really have a good answer for you. Money mainly, also slight fear of messing up something during install. The number of rollers and lifters and things lining up just right on that intake cam is pretty intimidating.

You are right that if I'm gonna do it, now's the time.

Now you got me thinking.

If you are so nervous, do some dry runs on your old engine. But it’s super straight forward job. Like you said it yourself, it takes 10 turns to completely remove the bolt. Marty’s instructions call for: 5 turn loosening, insert shim, tighten the bolt (count number of turns), swap out shims, loosen (count number of turns), remove the shim and tighten the bolt (count number of turns). When everything is done, you don’t might not even need to torque the bolt. You just swapped out an engine and you are concerned about MILVs ?

[Joebie]

Originally Posted by W37V

If you are so nervous, do some dry runs on your old engine. But it’s super straight forward job. Like you said it yourself, it takes 10 turns to completely remove the bolt. Marty’s instructions call for: 5 turn loosening, insert shim, tighten the bolt (count number of turns), swap out shims, loosen (count number of turns), remove the shim and tighten the bolt (count number of turns). When everything is done, you don’t might not even need to torque the bolt. You just swapped out an engine and you are concerned about MILVs ?

Ha, yeah I see what you're saying. I know I could do it. I wrote that post before really looking into whats involved but now that I have (over lunch break) I'm sure I would be fine installing the MILVs. Actually seems pretty easy, especially with the engine on a stand like I'll have it! I thought it was much more in depth than it actually is.

I think the biggest thing is money, its $165 for the manifold plus free bimmerlabs 330i tune for 25 extra hp, or $1200 for the MILVs and BPC tune for 40 extra hp. Hard to justify that much extra for that little more power. I'm not trying to push the limits here, the 3IM is just so easy to do it's hard to pass it up. I'm never doing headers or exhaust so getting every ounce out of this motor just isnt super high on my priority list.

THAT BEING SAID

I have emailed Marty to learn about MILV pricing and availability. I'm not sure which way I'm going to go just yet.

[W37V]

Originally Posted by Joester

Ha, yeah I see what you're saying. I know I could do it. I wrote that post before really looking into whats involved but now that I have (over lunch break) I'm sure I would be fine installing the MILVs. Actually seems pretty easy, especially with the engine on a stand like I'll have it! I thought it was much more in depth than it actually is.

I think the biggest thing is money, its $165 for the manifold plus free bimmerlabs 330i tune for 25 extra hp, or $1200 for the MILVs and BPC tune for 40 extra hp. Hard to justify that much extra for that little more power. I'm not trying to push the limits here, the 3IM is just so easy to do it's hard to pass it up. I'm never doing headers or exhaust so getting every ounce out of this motor just isnt super high on my priority list.

THAT BEING SAID

I have emailed Marty to learn about MILV pricing and availability. I'm not sure which way I'm going to go just yet.

You could install them, but hold off on the tune until you are more flexible with funds. It will not hurt the engine, you just wouldn't have any benefit from them until you "unlock the power up".

It's the same thing with 3im. You can install it, but you don't get advantage of them until you get a tune.

[b92]

DAMN. Sucks to hear, but quick work getting her fixed up. And hey, you get a coffee table out of it!

Did you engage the clutch at ~9500 RPM or did the engine cut out first? I can't imagine 328 clutches could withstand flywheel speeds like that.

[PORTMOODY]

Originally Posted by W37V

You could install them, but hold off on the tune until you are more flexible with funds. It will not hurt the engine, you just wouldn't have any benefit from them until you "unlock the power up".

It's the same thing with 3im. You can install it, but you don't get advantage of them until you get a tune.

+1 put them in and wait. Also, there is another method I believe hassmachine has documented where you don't need to remove the bolt for the spring. I'd try that method if I was to do it again or.....I'd personally just buy the spring tool and have complete piece of mind. That's just me though. If you have a junk head to practice on, I'd try both methods and see which one you can swing easier.

[Joebie]

Originally Posted by b92

DAMN. Sucks to hear, but quick work getting her fixed up. And hey, you get a coffee table out of it!

Did you engage the clutch at ~9500 RPM or did the engine cut out first? I can't imagine 328 clutches could withstand flywheel speeds like that.

I shifted into 2nd, and simultaneously gave it full throttle and dropped the clutch (obviously I thought I was in 4th at the time).

It was surprisingly non-violent. No weird noises, nothing beyond high revving sounds. Then she just wouldnt go and I had to pull over and get a tow.

Originally Posted by PORTMOODY

+1 put them in and wait. Also, there is another method I believe hassmachine has documented where you don't need to remove the bolt for the spring. I'd try that method if I was to do it again or.....I'd personally just buy the spring tool and have complete piece of mind. That's just me though. If you have a junk head to practice on, I'd try both methods and see which one you can swing easier.

So the car runs fine with MILVs and no tune?

[Joebie]

Also I just edited post #27 to include all the engine teardown steps and ALSO

I made a list of all the important TTY bolts that need replacing that's listed in post #27 now too.

[W37V]

Originally Posted by Joester

So the car runs fine with MILVs and no tune?

Yes. I did it.

[Joebie]

Fellas, I had the PCV heater recall done on my old engine, but I'm not confident that it's been done on the engine I'm getting.

The part they replace for that is actually on the intake manifold, right? The part in the picture below right below the arrow?

So I can just take that part off my old manifold and put it on the new 3 stage one I'm getting and shouldnt have any more fire hazards, right?

[Biginboca]

Yes correct

[Joebie]

I just ordered some MILVs.

Last night I played around in the garage with my old head and I'm now convinced the only "right" way to do this job is by removing the rocker springs entirely with the special BMW tool, which is what I'll be doing.

I'd personally be a bit scared to do it with just the install washer method. Prying a hardened steel part out from a soft aluminum head is just too much risk for me. I'm also quite the perfectionist so any little scratches in there will worry me to death when in reality it'd probably be fine. The install washer method is not impossible though so dont let that discourage you... I'd just heavily advise renting the spring tool if you can.

I talked to both Marty and BPC who both say that running MILVs with no tune will be fine, I'll get the tune in a few months though after recouping some of this financial hit from the motor replacement.

[PORTMOODY]

bravo. bravo.

Did you see the method with the string that I believe hassmachine made videos about? The tension gets removed completely if I'm not mistaken. If you are just renting the tool for minimal cost then thats really the best bet.

[hassmaschine]

The tool would be easier. I'm not sure how well the string method would work on a stand, I'd be worried about pulling the engine over on top of me. Maybe if you have a 4-wheel stand (mine is only 3) or you have a buddy to help you hold it down. you can't break anything really using the string method though (unlike the washers).

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by Joester

I'm writing this from the inside of the tow truck, so I'll probably be brief I'll update lots more later.

Anyways as the title states, I was going for a pass and accidentally dropped my 2011 n52 into 2nd gear instead of 4th like I wanted to and let the clutch out. The car abviously revved way too high. By my math, about 9200rpm. There were no harsh noises beyond that. The car lost power and I pulled over. I let it sit for a minute and tried to start it again but it wouldn't even turn over.

There was no oil underneath the car or anything.

I'm thinking maybe it skipped timing, but I'm not really sure where to start troubleshooting. I'm thinking a compression test but how do I do one if it doesn't turn over?

I'm pretty sure it needs a new engine, do I just skip the troubleshooting phase and get a used engine on order or is there some due diligence I need to do before I call the engine totalled?

Any other advice on what to do next? Thanks in advance.

Any good source on where to find a good used engine?

And yes I know I'm an idiot. Been driving stick for 15 years and this is a new one for me. Not a mistake I'll repeat.

Motor didn't end up being seized? You just bent valves? That's lucky but I would guess you have bottom end damage as well... Not just valve damage. I'd at least put new rod bolts in.