[Dashing328i]

Awesome. Thanks.

[CTrink]

Originally Posted by CTrink

Still a single power source... right? Ultimately I only have one power source either way with my setup. The usb cord to the OTG. I think I just need to power the hub.

So I've figured out if I power the hub separately I can get into the positive mA. Still not enough though. Phone and tablet slowly die. When the tablet sleeps it's losing power as well.

[gamesfrager]

So your USB hub is a powered one, could you hotwire it to the fuse box? One of the switched higher amp fuses?

Maybe that helps? Or a Cellink B :P

[CTrink]

Originally Posted by gamesfrager

So your USB hub is a powered one, could you hotwire it to the fuse box? One of the switched higher amp fuses?

Maybe that helps? Or a Cellink B :P

You just started working at Cellink didn't you?

But the fuse idea could work. It just so happens to be right there in the glovebox next to the hub.

[CTrink]

I'm actually thinking of switching to a jailbroken iPad. I have more experience with Apple. I could emulate CarPlay and do all the same things. I'll keep you guys posted.

[alexwhittemore]

I've got a similar power problem right now - also running an N7 2013 with Timur's (which kinda sucks, because it's on Android 5 and Yuck).

Anyway, with my cable set up as it is now, the tablet basically doesn't charge when the screen's on full brightness, which sucks because its deep sleep is also super unreliable. If it dies after a few days of non-use, I have to wait quite a while before I can power it back on again without it just instantly shutting off

[gamesfrager]

Cellink B...hahaha

On a serious note, do guys keep the tablet in the car?
When I had my Nexus 7 2013, I used a wireless charger on the mount and magnets on the mount and on the tablets case.
This way I take it with me when I park at home or if I'm worried of someone trying to steal it.

Another thing, if you plan on keeping it inside the car all time; think about heat and batteries don't go so well.

Not to mention these tablets are getting old. Doing a cold boot is going to take some time. And will be annoying everytime you start the car.

My current plan is have a display up on the dash, independant from the android unit.
This way I can replace the android part without worrying about my display setup.

Check out my project if you are interested.
I hope to complete it soon.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1502142

[alexwhittemore]

Originally Posted by gamesfrager

On a serious note, do guys keep the tablet in the car?

Yep.

worried of someone trying to steal it.

Someone broke into my car in my driveway a couple weeks ago. They took my favorite sunglasses and a $10 power bank that was on its way out. Left the tablet. Funny thing is, the GD sunglasses cost me way more than the tablet's worth to replace - it's my favorite style of Ray-Ban, which I usually buy used on eBay, but there weren't any kicking around so I had to buy custom on their configurator. Goddamn steep pricing, they have.

Another thing, if you plan on keeping it inside the car all time; think about heat and batteries don't go so well.

The operating max temp of the tablet is way lower than the storage max temp of the battery, so it shuts down well before it's a problem. The battery doesn't like the thermal cycles, and doesn't like to stay plugged in all the time, but I haven't had any cause for concern about /safety/ in 4 years. The battery stops holding a charge well before the kind of mechanical failure that'd put it at risk of fire.

Not to mention these tablets are getting old. Doing a cold boot is going to take some time. And will be annoying everytime you start the car.

I don't do a cold boot - I use timur's kernel to go into a minimum power sleep when external power is disconnected, and come back out when it's connected again. But it IS slow, and it IS obnoxious, still.

My current plan is have a display up on the dash, independant from the android unit.
This way I can replace the android part without worrying about my display setup.

Check out my project if you are interested.
I hope to complete it soon.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1502142

I'll have a look - I'm definitely looking for what's next, since I don't think this will stay functional, or at least satisfactory, much longer.

[jyjimenez3]

Originally Posted by CTrink

It's all done. I untucked the DAC to show its location.

what adapter is that for the obd2. how did u get it out like that ?

[CTrink]

Originally Posted by jyjimenez3

what adapter is that for the obd2. how did u get it out like that ?

It's just a 30" OBD extension cable. I cut a notch in my OBD cover to run the flat cable out of the compartment.

[jyjimenez3]

Originally Posted by CTrink

No. The power goes straight to the tablet through the OTG. Then OTG goes to the hub for USB Mounting of the CarPlay adapter. The DAC is also on the hub.

I may need to modify a power cord for the hub. Otherwise there is nothing else that is able to be powered by another source.

how is this powered ? a bit confused . sorry haha . how it the tablet connected to the USB hub and beign powered?

[jyjimenez3]

also do you have a usb hub and otg ?

[CTrink]

Originally Posted by jyjimenez3

also do you have a usb hub and otg ?

Yes. USB hub and OTG. Power goes from armrest power to the otg to tablet. The female otg goes to the hub for usb mounting.

[alexwhittemore]

Originally Posted by CTrink

Yes. USB hub and OTG. Power goes from armrest power to the otg to tablet. The female otg goes to the hub for usb mounting.

It looks like you're using one of those OTG Y cables that has a micro-USB on one end, a female USB A on the other, and a little male USB A that enters near the female jack?

I'm not totally sure, but I wouldn't be surprised if the cable you're using has VBUS connected between ONLY the power injection male A and the hub-side female A socket, with only GND/D+/D- connected to the OTG port. Since host devices operating in OTG mode theoretically are supposed to only source power and not sink it, I think it's hit or miss whether injected power on those cables is electrically connected to the host side. IIRC there were lots of cable-related threads in Timur's subreddit back in the day, but I never really paid attention because I hacked together my own cable that doesn't rely on an off the shelf Y.

This theory would hold if your tablet doesn't ever charge, under any circumstances, and discharges as fast as it would if unplugged.

The other thing I KNOW to be true from my setup is that the N7 is particularly sensitive to source cable impedance. the 3" A to micro cable I use to supply power to mine has relatively thin conductors, and the tablet throttles down so far on its power consumption that it slowly drains even with power. The only way I can charge it while driving is if the screen is turned off.

Luckily, I went out and did some power testing the other day - the power budget opens WAY up if I just use a much lower resistance cable, so I should be able to sort it out without a ton of work. When I finally get around to it

[CTrink]

Originally Posted by alexwhittemore

It looks like you're using one of those OTG Y cables that has a micro-USB on one end, a female USB A on the other, and a little male USB A that enters near the female jack?

I'm not totally sure, but I wouldn't be surprised if the cable you're using has VBUS connected between ONLY the power injection male A and the hub-side female A socket, with only GND/D+/D- connected to the OTG port. Since host devices operating in OTG mode theoretically are supposed to only source power and not sink it, I think it's hit or miss whether injected power on those cables is electrically connected to the host side. IIRC there were lots of cable-related threads in Timur's subreddit back in the day, but I never really paid attention because I hacked together my own cable that doesn't rely on an off the shelf Y.

This theory would hold if your tablet doesn't ever charge, under any circumstances, and discharges as fast as it would if unplugged.

The other thing I KNOW to be true from my setup is that the N7 is particularly sensitive to source cable impedance. the 3" A to micro cable I use to supply power to mine has relatively thin conductors, and the tablet throttles down so far on its power consumption that it slowly drains even with power. The only way I can charge it while driving is if the screen is turned off.

Luckily, I went out and did some power testing the other day - the power budget opens WAY up if I just use a much lower resistance cable, so I should be able to sort it out without a ton of work. When I finally get around to it

Now we're talking. I'd like to Frankenstein my own as well.