[=C=]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

No, you can do one or the other without having to do both.

Excellent!

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by =C=

If you're replacing the stock 335 lower control arm with M3 Front lower Control Arm Upgrade Kit, do you also need to replace the upper control arm or can you leave that stock?

Just keep in mind, the "upper" is the one you want to replace, or at least the hydrobearing. The lower arm is gaining you camber, which is a good thing, but you would get the significant steering feel/turn in benefits.

[pj.rodriguez]

Subscribed

[VincentCloudX07]

Post back from the dead! I went to the stealership today for VA's BS safety check, and they say both of my bushings need to be replaced.....$700. Yeh no, that's insane, rather just get the entire arms for that price. So found this thread about the DIY and am trying to figure out if i can do it. Two question for you knowlegable guys out there.

1. Is there a in depth video for this? Mainly worried about putting the car at the correct load when fitting in new arm, and correct tightening of bolts. I have worked on my car before from DIY on the amazing Site, but this is getting a little more in-depth with the load stuff. Consider me a noob

2. I know a couple people have talked about the M arms, can someone link these to me? Im interested in possibly getting those instead of the normal ones.if you could also link the normal, it would be a huge help. I have a 325i 2006 E90 sports edition.

On a side note, it's been hard finding a reliable Indy here in northern VA, finally found RRT by Dulles Airport. Any experience? They are asking about $550 for this work, does that seem reasonable?

Thanks for your help!!

[RyanDavies]

Tension arms? I have a pair of good arms I will happily sell you and put in for you (I switched to M arms for the better bushing), depending upon when you need done. I could also take care of the work (I'm in Fairfax, VA) within about an hour on your car. Shoot me a PM.

RRT is great, but VERY expensive. Also, FFS take your car somewhere else for inspection if they're failing you for this crap.....

[Eurocraze]

bump

Where is a good vendor to purchase the m3 control arms from>?

[bmuum3]

Originally Posted by Eurocraze

bump

Where is a good vendor to purchase the m3 control arms from>?

FCP euro has the kit for $313 I believe

[drb007]

Another post to keep this alive...

I am about to order a new set of control arms or bushings.

My 06 330i has 240,000 miles, so I always have to consider how much to sink into it.

I have three options as summarized by all of the previous posts
1. Buy just the bushings and press out the old and in the new. Tempting to save the $$, but will likely regret it once I start trying to press out 240,000 mile bushings.
2. OEM replacement kit from FCP Euro for just over $300.
3. M3 upgrade kit for just $40 more than OEM, plus $45 for new hardware.

Question is, so I REALLY need M3 stuff on this tired old car? Probably...
I understand that anytime you mess with suspension components an alignment is recommended. However, looking at these parts, there is no adjustment to them?! Everyone posts that their alignment was way off when they upgraded to the M3 kit. I thought that was part of the whole point in doing the upgrade as the M3 has different alignment settings.
Are you all getting the car aligned to M3 specs or back to your car's stock settings?

It gets "messed up" because camber/toe changes after adding the lower arm...that's the whole point of going to the longer lower arm to begin with.

If you're just changing out the upper arm, there are plenty of options and none of them will require an alignment afterwards.

[drb007]

Don't I need to change them both?

If I do the M3 kit (that has the upper and lower, or forward and rear depending on perspective...) does that just set me at the M3 specs? What can they adjust during an alignment?

Originally Posted by drb007

Don't I need to change them both?

If I do the M3 kit (that has the upper and lower, or forward and rear depending on perspective...) does that just set me at the M3 specs? What can they adjust during an alignment?

http://www.e90post.com/forums/search...rchid=51906480

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

Mine (XI) didn't have any locktite on those bolts. They are one time use because they are torqued to yield. That last angle torqueing stretches the bolt and deforms it slightly but permanently as far as I understand.

Those nuts are self locking, they have a thread cut that gets progressively tighter. After one use the thread will open up, hence they say one time use. Like nylon locking nut, but without the nylon.

There are many bolts like that used in these cars, including the strut tower brace bolts. Ideally they should be replaced each time, because they are torque to yield tightened also.

I'm tackling this job this afternoon... On an XI, will I need a Ball Joint Puller to get the ball joint off the spindle... I'm always up for a trip to Harbor Freight.

[PhaseP]

I'm tackling this job this afternoon... On an XI, will I need a Ball Joint Puller to get the ball joint off the spindle... I'm always up for a trip to Harbor Freight.

Which arm are you replacing, the terms on these get confusing, especially on XI, on the below link, nubmber 8 (TRACTION STRUT WITH RUBBER MOUNTING) or number 15 (wish bone)?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=31_0740

If it is 8 traction strut with rubber mounting, the ball joint is separate part that is bolted on to the spindle. You can pull the arm from that ball joint by placing a pry bar between arm and spindle but not touching the ball joint boot to prevent damaging it, then hitting the arm where the ball joint stud goes through the arm with a heavy hammer, like 48 oz, while applying downward force with the pry bar. Depending on how rusty it is, it will come off after several hammer hits. I had removed mine like that.

A ball joint separator like this one may help with that job:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...iABEgLOw_D_BwE

Harbor Freight or Autozone may have similar.

If you are replacing the wishbone, since the ball joint of the wishbone is deep located in the spindle it may require a ball joint separator, or by just hitting on the arm it may come off. I didn't need to replace the wish bone so don't know really. The separator types I linked above may not fit in the space for the wishbone ball joint. You will need either a not too wide box wrench or a good crescent wrench to undo the nut on that ball joint, because the CV axle boot is right on top of that nut which doesn't leave room to use a socket.

If you are going to replace the ball joint on the traction strut (number 12) also, then you need heat to at least undo the two torx screws holding it down since they are locktited. Then preferably an air hammer, or again BF hammer to hammer it out from top with a socket.
Other or simultaneous effort is to loosen the nut on that ball joint, but don't remove the arm yet from the ball joint. Then you can beat on the arm with hammer to get the ball joint out, as well as hitting from top with a socket.
Haven't had the "pleasure" of dealing with that ball joint on my car yet, and from what others reported I am not looking forward to


What I wrote is all XI (AWD) for anyone else reading.

[Austin LeNomad]

I just want to add a slightly different viewpoint, as I just finished doing this job myself. For reference, it's a 2006, with a little over 100,000 miles. I see people posting about how they did this in an hour or so. I'm guessing that might be with less mileage, or some luck. The bushing, even if not leaking, gets pretty worn, and so in my case, I had to end up cutting the bolts and everything apart to get it off the car, using a sawzall and cutter because it was so loose you couldn't get it to stay still, not even with a clamp and a jack pressed against it. Also, if you are unfamiliar with the job, you will need a several Torx sizes to get everything off.

My advice is not to screw with the bushings alone (popping in and out) unless you have done it before. Save the time and get both arms. M3 or not up to you, but just get the whole thing so you can pop them right on after you fight to get the off. My other suggestion is that you replace both the upper and lower arms for consistency of the vehicle across the car. My other suggestion is that you also check your tie rods at this time, and if you can, replace those as well, because everything is out of the way.

However, this is definitely a job you can do, on tall jackstands so you have the clearances to get some room to move around.

I just got them from RockAuto, OEM replacements. Fixed the shaking and made the car feel like new again. I also replaced my inner and outer tie rods. My passengers side tie rod had seized, so I had to cut that off as well.

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

Which arm are you replacing, the terms on these get confusing, especially on XI, on the below link, nubmber 8 (TRACTION STRUT WITH RUBBER MOUNTING) or number 15 (wish bone)?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=31_0740

If it is 8 traction strut with rubber mounting, the ball joint is separate part that is bolted on to the spindle. You can pull the arm from that ball joint by placing a pry bar between arm and spindle but not touching the ball joint boot to prevent damaging it, then hitting the arm where the ball joint stud goes through the arm with a heavy hammer, like 48 oz, while applying downward force with the pry bar. Depending on how rusty it is, it will come off after several hammer hits. I had removed mine like that.

A ball joint separator like this one may help with that job:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...iABEgLOw_D_BwE

Harbor Freight or Autozone may have similar.

If you are replacing the wishbone, since the ball joint of the wishbone is deep located in the spindle it may require a ball joint separator, or by just hitting on the arm it may come off. I didn't need to replace the wish bone so don't know really. The separator types I linked above may not fit in the space for the wishbone ball joint. You will need either a not too wide box wrench or a good crescent wrench to undo the nut on that ball joint, because the CV axle boot is right on top of that nut which doesn't leave room to use a socket.

If you are going to replace the ball joint on the traction strut (number 12) also, then you need heat to at least undo the two torx screws holding it down since they are locktited. Then preferably an air hammer, or again BF hammer to hammer it out from top with a socket.
Other or simultaneous effort is to loosen the nut on that ball joint, but don't remove the arm yet from the ball joint. Then you can beat on the arm with hammer to get the ball joint out, as well as hitting from top with a socket.
Haven't had the "pleasure" of dealing with that ball joint on my car yet, and from what others reported I am not looking forward to


What I wrote is all XI (AWD) for anyone else reading.

Thanks for the comments. It's #8 on the real OEM diagram (Traction Strut). I have done the wishbone and it was a breeze.

As shown below, #8 had a ball joint set through it from the top. I've removed the 24MM nut at the bottom, soaked the ball joint and arm with WD40 and Liquid Wrench. I've also tried using a two jaw puller, but it kept twisting and didn't work. I tried the other type of ball joint separator, and it slid off the bolt. And, I have a 4lb BFH which i've "applied" to the situation at least 50 times.

I'm at a loss as to how to separate these damn parts! I'm just about to put it back together, throw parts in the trunk and let an indy deal with it...

[PhaseP]

You need to hit with the hammer at the area where the ball joint stud goes, the shock separates it. Where your arrow points in the picture.
Look at this video:

Applying downward force to the arm while hitting helps, since the weight of the spindle is all down already on the arm making them not to separate, you need some force for separation.

Don't be shy hitting it good, as long as you hit the target

Good luck!
Patience helps.

The ball joint separator tool may be better help, but I don't own or used one.

[PhaseP]

Others reported they used something like this to remove too:

https://www.harborfreight.com/tie-ro...ler-62708.html

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

You need to hit with the hammer at the area where the ball joint stud goes, the shock separates it. Where your arrow points in the picture.
Look at this video:

Applying downward force to the arm while hitting helps, since the weight of the spindle is all down already on the arm making them not to separate, you need some force for separation.

Don't be shy hitting it good, as long as you hit the target

Good luck!
Patience helps.

The ball joint separator tool may be better help, but I don't own or used one.

Thanks guys. I remove the caliper, rotor and dust shield and that whacked that SOB. Having better access made short work of the driver side. Passenger side was super easy as I took off the brake parts and went straight to the 4lb hammer!!

[PhaseP]