[slay2k]

Hey boys, so I've been running MDH Stage 1 v7.1 for a while and was quite happy with it. Today I tried Stage 1+ v7.1 (I have no FMIC) for shits and giggles, and can't even keep the wheels on the ground in 2nd (manual), which was surprising since I'm running 265/30/19s in the rear. I also tried v8.1 Stage 1 tonight, which did not spin the wheels but did up the boost a bit versus v7.1.

At this point I'm not sure how to go above Stage 1 without wasting the power on wheel spin. How would you guys sort these in order of importance, from most likely to cause wheelspin to least likely?

- Tires. I was originally running Kumho Ventus V12 Evo2s all around, but replaced one of the rears due to a sidewall bubble with, temporarily, a used PZero Corsa, which is what the tire shop had laying around for $50. So now they're not the same, and both have a bit under half tread. The rims have also taken a bit of a beating from awful roads.
- Suspension. Running a brand new set of Bilstein B12s w/ Eibach Pro Kit springs, with M3 control arms up front. Recent alignment shows me running -1.47,-1.39 camber and 0.16", 0.34" toe on the rears.
- Stock Rear Subframe Bushings w/ 92k miles on them. I just got Whiteline RSFB inserts, but have not put them on yet.
- Absence of LSD. I don't track the car and thus have no plans to splurge on one.

Would love to hear your thoughts, esp. from people running above Stage 1 and not spinning their wheels

[nicky dj]

Welcome to the club. The e92 non-M's are known for this, hence why they can barely break into the 10's even with high horsepower. Something to do with the rear axle. An LSD I'm told will help transmit 20% power to the ground. I also have heard that one of those differential lockdown brace helps with wheel hop and traction, but not many options without dumping more money in

[CarAbuser]

Mismatched budget tyres on the rear is more likely the cause than some design flaw in the E92 chassis. You shouldn't be struggling that much on a stage1 tune.

If you want grip then try a premium UHP tyre like the Michelin PSS or PS4S.

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by slay2k

Hey boys, so I've been running MDH Stage 1 v7.1 for a while and was quite happy with it. Today I tried Stage 1+ v7.1 (I have no FMIC) for shits and giggles, and can't even keep the wheels on the ground in 2nd (manual), which was surprising since I'm running 265/30/19s in the rear. I also tried v8.1 Stage 1 tonight, which did not spin the wheels but did up the boost a bit versus v7.1.

At this point I'm not sure how to go above Stage 1 without wasting the power on wheel spin. How would you guys sort these in order of importance, from most likely to cause wheelspin to least likely?

- Tires. I was originally running Kumho Ventus V12 Evo2s all around, but replaced one of the rears due to a sidewall bubble with, temporarily, a used PZero Corsa, which is what the tire shop had laying around for $50. So now they're not the same, and both have a bit under half tread. The rims have also taken a bit of a beating from awful roads.
- Suspension. Running a brand new set of Bilstein B12s w/ Eibach Pro Kit springs, with M3 control arms up front. Recent alignment shows me running -1.47,-1.39 camber and 0.16", 0.34" toe on the rears.
- Stock Rear Subframe Bushings w/ 92k miles on them. I just got Whiteline RSFB inserts, but have not put them on yet.
- Absence of LSD. I don't track the car and thus have no plans to splurge on one.

Would love to hear your thoughts, esp. from people running above Stage 1 and not spinning their wheels

Just like any other high HP car........you need to learn how to modulation power with the gas pedal. You can't just mash the pedal and never expect the tires to spin. It's all part of learning to drive the car.

These are not drag cars.......you don't have the weight transfer to really load the rear tires. Just get used to using the gas pedal.

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by CarAbuser

Mismatched budget tyres on the rear is more likely the cause than some design flaw in the E92 chassis. You shouldn't be struggling that much on a stage1 tune.

If you want grip then try a premium UHP tyre like the Michelin PSS or PS4S.

I have these on my 07' 335i.....they hook up really well. Sure, I can light up the tires in 1st, 2nd, 3rd.... but if you can allow them to grip a little first before you really put a load on them....they hook up really well, even on the stage 2+ tune.


Like I said before...these are not drag cars, they are not built to launch hard in a straight line, they were designed to handle/corner well.

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

Tires. It's the only part of your car directly connected to the road.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Better tires definitely help but depending on where you live, I notice anything under 65F is a crapshoot on summer tires, colder is even worse.

[slay2k]

I'm in PR, it never gets below 70 degrees.

Ok, tires it is. Now I just gotta decide whether to slap on my 17s w/ their Toyo Proxes that have the steering response of a tugboat, keep the damaged-rim 19s and put on better tires, or splurge on a new set of 18s with PSSs. I hate slow steering response most of all.

[Zach1328]

I'm in Colorado running Michelin PS4S 255/35-18 tires (OEM size for sport package) in the rear. I have an e90 335 and it hooks up well even in sub 40 degree temperatures.

JB4, VRSF DPs, DCI, MMP stock location inlets/outlets. Also running ~20-25% E85 on MHD pump BEF.

During the winter months I run dedicated winter wheels. Bridgestone Blizzak 225's all around; pure winter snow/ice tire. I can tell you it's a night and day difference in traction as compared to the Michelins. The snow tires last me a solid 4,000-5,000 miles before replacing. I can't resist the urge to use the power though...

Anyways, its already been said but you need better tires.

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by slay2k

I'm in PR, it never gets below 70 degrees.

Ok, tires it is. Now I just gotta decide whether to slap on my 17s w/ their Toyo Proxes that have the steering response of a tugboat, keep the damaged-rim 19s and put on better tires, or splurge on a new set of 18s with PSSs. I hate slow steering response most of all.

You will get better grip with the 17" wheels. The larger diameter the wheel, the less sidewall, the less flex, and less traction...

[slay2k]

Grip isn't my only concern. The problem w/ 17s is there's too much flex in the tire with respect to sharp steering inputs, creating a "laggy" feeling. I can't handle it (pun intended).

[Wingnutts]

A rear dif brace and the Whiteline rear subframe inserts are low budget options that can help. But tires, throttle control and limiting your boost through MHD in 1st, 2nd and now 3rd are key.

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by Wingnutts

A rear dif brace and the Whiteline rear subframe inserts are low budget options that can help. But tires, throttle control and limiting your boost through MHD in 1st, 2nd and now 3rd are key.

How does a diff brace help to get more traction?

[Wingnutts]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

How does a diff brace help to get more traction?

It locks down the diff so it does not bounce around. I put the BMS rear diff brace on about a month ago with the Whiteline inserts in an attempt to lock the rear down quickly and cheaply because I was having such traction issues that it was interfering with my logs while trying to tune with BQ. The back end is a lot less squirrely now and when on the throttle and especially around corners, the back end does not hop anymore. For the $150 it was well worth it in my opinion. BMS rear diff brace and Whiteline rear subframe inserts. Research them. Plenty of threads and videos out there.

[slay2k]

I've heard of those symptoms being fixed w/ the Whiteline inserts. How do you know it isn't 99% them? =)

[Wingnutts]

Originally Posted by slay2k

I've heard of those symptoms being fixed w/ the Whiteline inserts. How do you know it isn't 99% them? =)

That I do not have an answer for you. I did both at the same time since I had the car up on the stands. After watching some videos of before and after a diff brace, I can't scientifically say it helps, but I'm quite certain it is helping some. My recommendation would be to do both due to cost and convenience and have it all covered.

[NoGuru]

Originally Posted by slay2k

I've heard of those symptoms being fixed w/ the Whiteline inserts. How do you know it isn't 99% them? =)

Because I have stock inserts and a diff brace and the brace helped tremulously.

[iqraceworks]

Has anyone messed around with the "limit boost by gear" option in MHD? You can limit boost in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear. Might be a great option for keeping the power/torque down in order to get the tires to hook up.

[NoGuru]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

Has anyone messed around with the "limit boost by gear" option in MHD? You can limit boost in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear. Might be a great option for keeping the power/torque down in order to get the tires to hook up.

Yep, before my custom tune I ran 1st at 7 and 2nd at 14psi. Really helped.

[Wingnutts]

Originally Posted by NoGuru

Yep, before my custom tune I ran 1st at 7 and 2nd at 14psi. Really helped.

What are you running now? I'm at 7 1st, 14 2nd and I put 22 at third. I still need to do some tweaking with BQ, but that is waiting until Spring.

[NoGuru]

Originally Posted by Wingnutts

What are you running now? I'm at 7 1st, 14 2nd and I put 22 at third. I still need to do some tweaking with BQ, but that is waiting until Spring.

The car is in storage now but I think I removed all of that and let BQ handle it.
I can probably get in there and check if I find some time.

[Wingnutts]

Originally Posted by NoGuru

The car is in storage now but I think I removed all of that and let BQ handle it.
I can probably get in there and check if I find some time.

I knew not to select the 3.5bar as he had it already figured, but I was unaware that he may have been handling the gear/turbo limit.