[Aus335iguy]

#theultimate335

Looks, power, handling all sorted.

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

After buying the ohlins coilovers almost 6 months ago I fonally got around to installing them! (purchased from harold HPA in the USA)

Massive thanks to titium for helping me install them! (& vtl & PeterY for their technical advice!!)

This round of mods has transformed the car on a complete new level!

In addition to the ohlins ive had the GAS monoballs, ground control camber plates, M3 steering rack installed (I have a complete ///M3 driveline with LSD etc etc) and the alignment dialled in by Shane @ 3eleven motorsport with corner balance (I only managed to get the before pic corner weight spec as my phone ran outta batteries for final corner weight spec)

Cant wait before I can fit the new rims and tyres (currently on oem rims and RFT's) to fully maximise the potential of this round of chassis mods!

Coilovers look great Shane. How is the ride with these installed compared with your previous coils and shockies?

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by Aus335iguy

#theultimate335

Looks, power, handling all sorted.

It's getting there!!!

Originally Posted by Coupes33

Coilovers look great Shane. How is the ride with these installed compared with your previous coils and shockies?

There's simply no comparison! The price difference between the BC's and the ohlins with ground control camber plates is rather huge, but the damper tech is worlds apart!

The best way I can describe it, is that the ride i still firm yet controlled and beautifully damped. So on some parts of the roads you may still feel some undulations and bumps but it's dialled down. The BC's in comparison were soft on compression yet firm on rebound. So this would result in the shocks riding on bump stops in high speed bumps and a less than composed ride.

This also hinders grip in bumpy corners!

On my daily commute theres a downhill decline, with a sharp dip. If I use to hit that at 80 km/h my rear tyre would scrub and you would feel the BC dampers almost hitting the bump stops, the ohlins simply absorbed it and I literally couldnt feel it!

On the recent wheel alignment I found out that me rear left tyre had 4mm of toe (was supposed to have been 0.5mm) this is what I'd suspected as I could see it by eye and my rear right tyre never use to scrub at all..

In tassie I had a lot of scrubbing on some of the shit roads there, and the rear left tyre sidewall had copped it as can be seen in the pics below





So hopefully with the alignment issue sorted and far superior dampers my 10.5" rear ZE40 rims fitted with 265/35 AD08R's wont scrub

[Coupes33]

It will be interesting to see how the 10.5" rims and tyres go as far as clearance from the guards. When I fitted my 9.5" GTC rims, the extra 0.5' of width was on the outside compared with the OEM 9" rim and the 265/35ZR18 Michelin PSS would scrub on the guard when the car went over a bump in the road. I rolled the guards and all is good now. Have your guards been rolled Shane?

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by Coupes33

It will be interesting to see how the 10.5" rims and tyres go as far as clearance from the guards. When I fitted my 9.5" GTC rims, the extra 0.5' of width was on the outside compared with the OEM 9" rim and the 265/35ZR18 Michelin PSS would scrub on the guard when the car went over a bump in the road. I rolled the guards and all is good now. Have your guards been rolled Shane?

My guards have been extensively modified and are rolled completely flat.

The new rims are 10.5" +30 whereas my old rims were 10" +25. So they're basically very similar in terms of where they'll sit inside the guards.

I'll be running a 265/35 AD08R tyre on the new rays rims, the AD08R's have very square sidewalls so that may be a determining factor also.. (I was running a 275/30 on the old setup but the NT05 tyres have rounded sidewalls in comparison!)

[DR-JEKL]

So Since collecting my car I’ve had the long arduous task of breaking the clutch in. The best method to break a clutch in, is in stop start type driving in traffic with lots of gear changes and taking off from a stop.. so pretty much daily commute style driving (I normally hit the open roads when driving the 335i and I have the mighty toyota corolla for daily driving duties) The spec stage 2 clutch isn’t too bad, but unless you have ST or upgraded turbos I’d definitely recommend the 550i & DMF setup. It’s a lot nicer to use in traffic, not that the spec stage 2 and SMF is horrible, its just nowhere near as nice as the OEM like 550i! (heavier and can be difficult to get smooth engagement on inclines etc and requires a lot more revs than the OEM setup otherwise it shudders)

I’d just racked up 900kms of driving (guideline by spec clutches is 1000 kays for break in) but with the trip with the guys from Vic to alpine pass looming up very fast I decided to start tuning the car to try and get the car ready!

Tim (T1M is his user by memory) is a very knowledgeable tune based in Melbourne and is a great guy. I asked him if he would tune my car (I had paid for tunes by motiv to use but wasn’t really happy with them TBH you’d go a week or so between map revisions) so Tim sent me a baseline tune to get started with. I’d had the OEM stage 0 MHD map & been very diligent to not got WOT, had given it a quick snap once or twice and it felt slow AF on stage 0…

So I went to do my log and yeah knew straight away something was wrong it felt horrible but it didn’t chuck a CEL… uploaded the logs and I had 3 psi… (so my clutch got broken in running no boost practically N/A mode!) In these scenario’s you think the worse, perhaps a wastegate is jammed, is it jammed due to custom outlets not providing enough clearance etc etc

I gave the engine bay a once over in the dark with a torch in my driveway, inspecting all vac lines on hot side (they were all fresh high temp silicon hoses as requested to be installed with the turbo install) I have a new chargepipe with vibrant HD clamp it was in place, all couplers were tight on intake and CP to FMIC connection… I relayed this info to Tim and he suggested looking at the vac line coming off the T’s off the brake booster line that run behind the oil filter housing (under the airbox) sure enough both lines were absolutely rooted…

I had both of these lines replaced by advan 10000-12000 kays ago, the OEM lines have a heatshield over the lines these were just rubber vac lines that had been damaged by the radiating heat off the oil filter housing.

#5&6 lines in vac line diagram below (on RH side)



Talking to my turbo installer he said gates branded rubber hoses are great, even some of the silicon lines can fail and a lot of the rubber hoses are just junk. The rubber lines that were installed were all stiff and cracked at both ends on both hoses. There were major cracks on the hose coming off the t piece near the brake booster (one has had split straight through on both sides) minor cracks on the other end which slips onto the hard solid vac lines (which run over the top of the rocker cover to the bottom of the vacuum canisters).

I just had to slip the airbox off then cut two new lines (I bought CRP branded silicon hose from FCP euro for the turbo installation). Upon removing the old lines they literally fell off they were so loose…











Whilst I had cabin filter out etc figured I might as well install the fresh 95770 NGK plugs I had, and do the bimmerlife coil mod.

I had upgraded to BL coils near 12 months ago and when I got them I was disappointed with the wiring loom connectors. They have a 3D printed plug and they’re very delicate and can be easily damaged.. They actually supply heat shrink wrap to use if they break on you, you use the wrap to hold the connectors together.. (BL have since upgraded these connectors to a higher quality 3D printed part but for existing owners we’d have to buy the new harness)

The Audi R8 coils looked like a great piece, with metal shielding and relatively affordable and easy to source from local suppliers in the case of failure. Then there was a big writeup on spool st that the coil wasn’t sitting on the plugs properly. I had noticed that when seating the coils it didn’t seem to be sitting all the way down… So basically guys in the USA devised that by removing the heat shielding, filing down some of the coil prongs and cutting some rubber nibs off the rubber insulation this had them sitting further down inside the head and thus having a proper snug fit on the spark plug as they should have been..

So I went to work firstly gapping all of the plugs, which was a first for me! I have used OEM plugs exclusively for years with no issues (they don’t require gapping) and used the coin style gapping tool.

Basically the method I used was to check the plug gap first, then press down on my bench to close up the gap. Then when I got the plug gap close, put the plug in the socket and tap the plug using the handle of a screwdriver a few times (important to use the socket so the force is exerted on the metal portion of the plug, not the porcelain if you had plug against bench when tapping – the porcelain is very fragile) FWIW I plugged mine at .024”/0.6mm. For OEM coils guys typically use .020” (“ being inch) plug gap I believe, but since I have the BL coils (much more powerful coil) I can run a wider gap.





The next time I gap a set a plugs I think I’ll use a set of feeler gauges (that I can verify with micrometers) with the coin style taper tool you can’t really measure it to verify, but at least all 6 plugs are gapped the same.

With the coils I removed the metal sheaths (undo the two small metal prongs with a pair of long nose pliers) undo the black rubber cap then slide the shield off with a pair of pliers (take care you don’t damage the insulation pulling the metal shield off otherwise you’ll get misfires) then I trimmed the 3 rubber prongs off the bottom of the coil, and used a flat file to file down the red plastic prong just past the 2nd ring to enable the coil to sit right down in the head on top of the sparkplug properly.

















When initially installing the coils (prior to the BL coil mod) I had them in a 2 o’clock 30 degree position before, now that they sit lower you can angle them more at 12 o’clock position. I had issues with wiring being tight (had to unclip it from the clip on the rocker cover) and so pretty much ended up with most coils sitting at the 1 o’clock position..

The car fired up great, idles smooth and I finally now have boost!! Gave it a squirt in 2nd gear and had the rear step out on me pretty savagely once it hit boost 3k ish RPM (it was raining and I’m currently running 255 RFT’s on OEM rims for the interim whilst waiting for my rays rims to arrive)

My rays rims are due to arrive from customs this week according to the supplier. Been a massive 4 month wait so far (2-3 months was the initial guideline) and it’s really cutting it fine to ensure I have the car ready in time for the trip!!) I have a new set of TMS wheel studs, project kics R40 iconix nuts and a set of Advan AD08R tyres (245/40 18” & 265/35/ 18”) waiting to meet the Rays ZE40’s!



https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...6-e9x/?pdk=Fg0



https://frsport.com/project-kics-wri...waAjNBEALw_wcB

One other issue I have is on long sweeping right hand bends I’m getting a vibration through the steering wheel.. Could be related to the steering rack, but possibly could be a front wheel bearing (but the bearing isn’t humming in a straight line) and could be a wheel balance issue… I need to top up the PS res as the fluid is sitting a little low and reassess and go from there!

There’s always some niggly issues to iron out or something requiring attention on this car to keep me busy 😊

[Socket]

Nice write up Shane..... as always 👍

[Coupes33]

Good work Shane. I had to replace those 2 plastic vacuum pipes and hoses on mine last year for the same reason. Good to hear that you are getting boost now. You should certainly feel the difference with those turbos installed. I got the same set up with the modified BL coils and NGK spark plugs. I had mine gapped to 0.024" but on some runs at the drags, I was getting a misfire on cylinder 6. I reduced the gap to 0.22" now and at the last meeting, I had no issues on the 3 runs. Whether that was the reason, I cannot be 100% sure.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by Coupes33

Good work Shane. I had to replace those 2 plastic vacuum pipes and hoses on mine last year for the same reason. Good to hear that you are getting boost now. You should certainly feel the difference with those turbos installed. I got the same set up with the modified BL coils and NGK spark plugs. I had mine gapped to 0.024" but on some runs at the drags, I was getting a misfire on cylinder 6. I reduced the gap to 0.22" now and at the last meeting, I had no issues on the 3 runs. Whether that was the reason, I cannot be 100% sure.

Ahh it's certainly frustrating having a vac leak, hopefully this may raise the awareness for guys to check their's!

Oh OK, I've not had any misfires the 3 tune revisions have performed quite well so far! (310kw on VD @ 17 psi)

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

Ahh it's certainly frustrating having a vac leak, hopefully this may raise the awareness for guys to check their's!

Oh OK, I've not had any misfires the 3 tune revisions have performed quite well so far! (310kw on VD @ 17 psi)

Are you still running 50-60% E85 Shane.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by Coupes33

Are you still running 50-60% E85 Shane.

no currently on baseline tune on 98 to get the car ready for Vince's alpine pass trip (obviously only 98 will be available in regional areas)

Then once the trip is done finalise the 98 map (if its not done prior) then I'll be ready to start tuning on E30 DI only.

I dont want added complexity, expense of PI and I don't think I need that level of power TBH.

So my plan is to chuck the stage 3 LPFP in. If you get a good solid low feed this ultimately assists the HPFP which will be the limiting factor in fuelling for DI.

I love how the car feels on E85, the advanced timing really wakes the car up and with these quick spooling turbos it will make for a fun street car.

I'll just have to get Vince to mod my stage 3 LPFP wiring so I can use the exhaust valve to activate the 2nd pump instead of a hobbs. This should be much more effective than the hobbs and I dont have to worry about plumbing in a hobbs to my CP either

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

no currently on baseline tune on 98 to get the car ready for Vince's alpine pass trip (obviously only 98 will be available in regional areas)

Then once the trip is done finalise the 98 map (if its not done prior) then I'll be ready to start tuning on E30 DI only.

I dont want added complexity, expense of PI and I don't think I need that level of power TBH.

So my plan is to chuck the stage 3 LPFP in. If you get a good solid low feed this ultimately assists the HPFP which will be the limiting factor in fuelling for DI.

I love how the car feels on E85, the advanced timing really wakes the car up and with these quick spooling turbos it will make for a fun street car.

I'll just have to get Vince to mod my stage 3 LPFP wiring so I can use the exhaust valve to activate the 2nd pump instead of a hobbs. This should be much more effective than the hobbs and I dont have to worry about plumbing in a hobbs to my CP either

Can you explain the exhaust valve activation of the 2nd pump?

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by Coupes33

Can you explain the exhaust valve activation of the 2nd pump?

I had first heard about it when jake/jymona (the guy who does all the cool stuff on this platform regarding prgramming/flash options) mentioned that the exhaust valve solenoid has tables of its own.

So instead of using a rather crude on/off type hobbs switch which relies on boost pressure the exhaust flap solenoid can be wired up to trigger a relay for the second pump and you can tweak the torque request % for exhaust flap actuation in the DME flash itself! (so you essentially have DME control over the activation of the 2nd pump)

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

I had first heard about it when jake/jymona (the guy who does all the cool stuff on this platform regarding prgramming/flash options) mentioned that the exhaust valve solenoid has tables of its own.

So instead of using a rather crude on/off type hobbs switch which relies on boost pressure the exhaust flap solenoid can be wired up to trigger a relay for the second pump and you can tweak the torque request % for exhaust flap actuation in the DME flash itself! (so you essentially have DME control over the activation of the 2nd pump)

I am using the crude on/off type hobbs switch at present. It has been working ok to date but what you have explained would be better. Keep us informed on how it goes after you complete the installation Shane.

[DR-JEKL]

In my last post I mentioned I'd had small vibrations in steering wheel on long bends.. Took the car back to my turbo installer, and up on the hoist he found the issue within 60 seconds.. As it turn out I had two loose control arm nuts thus causing slop in the steering and the vibrations (he must have forgotten to torque them up)

Nice simple fix and the steering felt so much more responsive afterwards & no more vibrations!

I'd also been getting some groaning from the power steering pump under full lock when reversing out of my driveway. Since I'd had the M3 rack installed figured it may take a while to pump out any air in the system, but it's been a month now and it seems not quite enough fluid was in the system. Gave this a top up and it's been golden!



Bit of a rainy cool day here today so I spent a few hours today fixing a few small issues on the car.

#1 engine cover bolts no longer secured the cover to the valve cover so satup high. This was made worse when running bimmerlife coils as the coils prevented the cover from being secured right down into position. Since I'd recently done the BL coil mod, I decided to tackle this one. Basically there is a small rubber washer in each hole. Being rubber of course they wear over time and thus tear out. I ended up finding some metal washers in my toolbox and nylon plugs.

Before:



After:



I'd forgotten to replace the hood struts before the car went in for the turbo install, during recent install on the coilovers with the hood up and jacking the rear of the car up it slammed shut scaring the shit out of me!

Slipped in a set of OE stabilus struts





Checking the engine bay noticed a small portion of the already trimmed fan shroud was rubbing on the front inlet, trimmed the edge off with a hacksaw blade by hand and also noticed one of the clamp screws rubbing on the aluminium chargepipe which I spun around to give more clearance



My car mainly see's the cosy confines of the garage wrapped in a cover with the battery being trickle fed, and when it rains I don't normally take it out. So after 6 years the bosch windscreen wipers are still fine, but unbeknownst to me the bosch wipers went away with the 'covers' that clip into place which looked a bit untidy IMO. Valeo are OEM so I bought a set of those for the cleaner look (car is filthy dirty in the pics after being daily driven for the past month racking up 1300 kays)









When installing the ohlins rear shock we accidentally dropped the damper adjuster inside the rear guard (it fell way down inside the rear guard) and there appeared to be no way to access it..

I had to buy an inspection camera from SCA with a magnet attachment. This took me about an hour as when I got the damper adjuster hooked on the magnet the gap in some areas of the guard was narrower than the adjuster so it would just fall off the magnet... I was sure damn sure careful once I'd fished it out, and went to install it on the rear damper!







Since the rear damper adjusters are behind the boot trims, I'd decided upon installing some plugs which require drilling a hole in the trims.





So when I wish to adjust the rear dampers it's just a matter of popping the cover off then slipping my fingers down to adjust them.

Since I'd had the boot trims out, one thing thats been annoying me for years was the garnish trim where the boot latch goes. When buying my car back in 2012, the car was in great shape, but this trim was pretty scuffed up. The boot carpet etc was in good condition but it was obvious this trim had had a lot of wear from knocks getting stuff out of the boot...

I decided to paint it satin black (like the M3) and sanded it down with 1200 then put a few coats of plastic primer before putting on 4 coats of satin black acrylic











(I'd also painted the grey clips, small covers)

Since I'd installed NBT the TV no longer works, and the cd stacker is not used I was hoping to remove this dead weight from the boot and hook up some canbus loops (when you d/c these components the canbus detects a this break in the loop and your sound etc wont work) unfortunately the loops I'd bought dont fit the plugs... So I'll need to do some further research to work out how to remove the TV module and cd stacker before putting all my boot trim pieces back in

Blue plug in the TV module:



CD stacker:

[Hoper]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

In my last post I mentioned I'd had small vibrations in steering wheel on long bends.. Took the car back to my turbo installer, and up on the hoist he found the issue within 60 seconds.. As it turn out I had two loose control arm nuts thus causing slop in the steering and the vibrations (he must have forgotten to torque them up)

Nice simple fix and the steering felt so much more responsive afterwards & no more vibrations!

I'd also been getting some groaning from the power steering pump under full lock when reversing out of my driveway. Since I'd had the M3 rack installed figured it may take a while to pump out any air in the system, but it's been a month now and it seems not quite enough fluid was in the system. Gave this a top up and it's been golden!



Bit of a rainy cool day here today so I spent a few hours today fixing a few small issues on the car.

#1 engine cover bolts no longer secured the cover to the valve cover so satup high. This was made worse when running bimmerlife coils as the coils prevented the cover from being secured right down into position. Since I'd recently done the BL coil mod, I decided to tackle this one. Basically there is a small rubber washer in each hole. Being rubber of course they wear over time and thus tear out. I ended up finding some metal washers in my toolbox and nylon plugs.

Before:



After:



I'd forgotten to replace the hood struts before the car went in for the turbo install, during recent install on the coilovers with the hood up and jacking the rear of the car up it slammed shut scaring the shit out of me!

Slipped in a set of OE stabilus struts





Checking the engine bay noticed a small portion of the already trimmed fan shroud was rubbing on the front inlet, trimmed the edge off with a hacksaw blade by hand and also noticed one of the clamp screws rubbing on the aluminium chargepipe which I spun around to give more clearance



My car mainly see's the cosy confines of the garage wrapped in a cover with the battery being trickle fed, and when it rains I don't normally take it out. So after 6 years the bosch windscreen wipers are still fine, but unbeknownst to me the bosch wipers went away with the 'covers' that clip into place which looked a bit untidy IMO. Valeo are OEM so I bought a set of those for the cleaner look (car is filthy dirty in the pics after being daily driven for the past month racking up 1300 kays)









When installing the ohlins rear shock we accidentally dropped the damper adjuster inside the rear guard (it fell way down inside the rear guard) and there appeared to be no way to access it..

I had to buy an inspection camera from SCA with a magnet attachment. This took me about an hour as when I got the damper adjuster hooked on the magnet the gap in some areas of the guard was narrower than the adjuster so it would just fall off the magnet... I was sure damn sure careful once I'd fished it out, and went to install it on the rear damper!







Since the rear damper adjusters are behind the boot trims, I'd decided upon installing some plugs which require drilling a hole in the trims.





So when I wish to adjust the rear dampers it's just a matter of popping the cover off then slipping my fingers down to adjust them.

Since I'd had the boot trims out, one thing thats been annoying me for years was the garnish trim where the boot latch goes. When buying my car back in 2012, the car was in great shape, but this trim was pretty scuffed up. The boot carpet etc was in good condition but it was obvious this trim had had a lot of wear from knocks getting stuff out of the boot...

I decided to paint it satin black (like the M3) and sanded it down with 1200 then put a few coats of plastic primer before putting on 4 coats of satin black acrylic











(I'd also painted the grey clips, small covers)

Since I'd installed NBT the TV no longer works, and the cd stacker is not used I was hoping to remove this dead weight from the boot and hook up some canbus loops (when you d/c these components the canbus detects a this break in the loop and your sound etc wont work) unfortunately the loops I'd bought dont fit the plugs... So I'll need to do some further research to work out how to remove the TV module and cd stacker before putting all my boot trim pieces back in

Blue plug in the TV module:



CD stacker:

Nice work Shane, I'll have to do my boot trim, same thing, it's a little scuffed

[Socket]

great write up as always mate... attention to detail is brilliant

[Aus335iguy]

Not sure about CAN BUS loop but the audio MOST fibre loop is a pain in the ass to diagnose when faulty because it's a ring and any break in that ring means no audio. Fortunately loop connectors are 5 dollars a throw on eBay. I recommend keeping a spare as they come in handy when you lose sound and don't have any errors logged.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by Hoper

Nice work Shane, I'll have to do my boot trim, same thing, it's a little scuffed

Ahh so it's not just mine then!

I'm not expecting the rattle can spray job to be all that durable, but I dont use the boot all that much TBH so should be able to keep it looking OK andit should look a lot nicer!

Originally Posted by Socket

great write up as always mate... attention to detail is brilliant

Cheers Phil!

Originally Posted by Aus335iguy

Not sure about CAN BUS loop but the audio MOST fibre loop is a pain in the ass to diagnose when faulty because it's a ring and any break in that ring means no audio. Fortunately loop connectors are 5 dollars a throw on eBay. I recommend keeping a spare as they come in handy when you lose sound and don't have any errors logged.

actually yeah its MOST loop!! yeah Peter Y helped me out and I managed to find the male plugs I need. So hopefully when they arrive I'll able to nut it out. As you said if you have a break in the loop no audio FM stations dont work etc (so you cant just remove stacker etc)

[Coupes33]

[QUOTE=DR-JEKL;23911329]

Since I'd had the boot trims out, one thing thats been annoying me for years was the garnish trim where the boot latch goes. When buying my car back in 2012, the car was in great shape, but this trim was pretty scuffed up. The boot carpet etc was in good condition but it was obvious this trim had had a lot of wear from knocks getting stuff out of the boot...

I decided to paint it satin black (like the M3) and sanded it down with 1200 then put a few coats of plastic primer before putting on 4 coats of satin black acrylic

That trim looks great painted black. I might do the same with mine for exactly the same reason.

[DR-JEKL]

[QUOTE=Coupes33;23924093]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

Since I'd had the boot trims out, one thing thats been annoying me for years was the garnish trim where the boot latch goes. When buying my car back in 2012, the car was in great shape, but this trim was pretty scuffed up. The boot carpet etc was in good condition but it was obvious this trim had had a lot of wear from knocks getting stuff out of the boot...

I decided to paint it satin black (like the M3) and sanded it down with 1200 then put a few coats of plastic primer before putting on 4 coats of satin black acrylic

That trim looks great painted black. I might do the same with mine for exactly the same reason.

Ive left it on my workbench with the window blind retracted so the afternoon sun will bake it. Checked it this afternoon and the paint is actually pretty sturdy when trying to scratch it with my fingernail.

I reckon it should hold up ok and looks nice and fresh and new

[DR-JEKL]

After 5 months of waiting my Rays ZE40's are finally enroute to me from Melbourne!

It's bittersweet as they'll arrive on Monday, I was hoping to partake in the Alpine Vic Drive with the lads which is this weekend...

If only they had arrived a few days earlier

Cant help bad luck, but cant wait to get these rims, wack a few coats of gyeon rim ceramic coating on them and get them mounted up and finally hand over the 18" OEM rims to the guy who bought them off me a month or so ago!