[RogerThat]

Heyy guys. So my car has been unable to start for a few weeks now. I was watching some videos last night on possible issues and was turned to some of the wiring with my battery. Well when looking at the wiring I noticed there was something disconnected but I cant figure out what it goes to or where it plugs in. It is zip tied to the positive wire. I have attached an image of my battery with me holding the wire. Any ideas what it is to or where it goes?

[BimmerNugget]

That's the IBS cable (intelligent battery sensor). It plugs into the negative terminal, by the side of the negative terminal cable.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by RogerThat

Heyy guys. So my car has been unable to start for a few weeks now. I was watching some videos last night on possible issues and was turned to some of the wiring with my battery. Well when looking at the wiring I noticed there was something disconnected but I cant figure out what it goes to or where it plugs in. It is zip tied to the positive wire. I have attached an image of my battery with me holding the wire. Any ideas what it is to or where it goes?

That connector you are holding is NOT intended to be plugged into anything after transport of the vehicle from the assembly plant. A number of threads on different Forums have dealt with reports of that connector (with small Red & Blue wires) being disconnected, and ALL have reported they have a similar disconnected conector and the best info appears to be that it was used for battery tending during shipment.

So when you say "my car has been unable to start" perhaps you could get some advice as to what to test if you would indicate:
1) Do you have a multimeter and have you checked battery voltage at the Jumpstart Terminal under the hood? What is the voltage?
2) You can also use "Hidden Menu" menu 9.00 to display system voltage on the instrument cluster:
http://e90.wikifoundry.com/page/BC+hidden+menus
3) Does the Starter crank/turn the engine when you press START?
4) If the Starter cranks the engine, does the engine sputter, change RPM or try to fire at all, or just maintain the same RPM? What RPM is shown on Tach, or by RPM Parameter via scan tool attached to OBD II Socket?
5) If you have/can borrow a Scan Tool, what codes are saved in DME (Engine ECU)?

With answers to as many of those questions as you can provide, someone can help.

George

[Jashan90]

Does it crank? Could be fuel pump

[RogerThat]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

That connector you are holding is NOT intended to be plugged into anything after transport of the vehicle from the assembly plant. A number of threads on different Forums have dealt with reports of that connector (with small Red & Blue wires) being disconnected, and ALL have reported they have a similar disconnected conector and the best info appears to be that it was used for battery tending during shipment.

So when you say "my car has been unable to start" perhaps you could get some advice as to what to test if you would indicate:
1) Do you have a multimeter and have you checked battery voltage at the Jumpstart Terminal under the hood? What is the voltage?
2) You can also use "Hidden Menu" menu 9.00 to display system voltage on the instrument cluster:
http://e90.wikifoundry.com/page/BC+hidden+menus
3) Does the Starter crank/turn the engine when you press START?
4) If the Starter cranks the engine, does the engine sputter, change RPM or try to fire at all, or just maintain the same RPM? What RPM is shown on Tach, or by RPM Parameter via scan tool attached to OBD II Socket?
5) If you have/can borrow a Scan Tool, what codes are saved in DME (Engine ECU)?

With answers to as many of those questions as you can provide, someone can help.

George

1) Yes I did. its 11.3 V dc
2) I've followed all the steps to access the "secret menu" in my car but when it should show up it comes up with a small ! in a triangle instead
3) No it doesn't. When I try to start my car and press the push to start it just makes a single click noise, then nothing for for about two seconds and then one more click and nothing. I get a ! in the display area and that's it.
4) N/A
5) I have connected 2 OBD II scan tools but the do not pull up any codes.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

...
1) Do you have a multimeter and have you checked battery voltage...?
3) Does the Starter crank/turn the engine when you press START?
5) If you have/can borrow a Scan Tool, what codes are saved in DME (Engine ECU)?

Originally Posted by RogerThat

1) Yes I did. its 11.3 V dc
3) No it doesn't. When I try to start my car and press the push to start it just makes a single click noise, then nothing for for about two seconds and then one more click and nothing. I get a ! in the display area and that's it.
5) I have connected 2 OBD II scan tools but the do not pull up any codes.

Need to get the battery charged to >12.0 V, preferably to 12.5V or more, but 12.0V SHOULD crank the starter. You can get a decent battery charger from Harbor Freight Tools for $30:
https://www.harborfreight.com/26-amp...ger-60322.html

11.3 V is NOT enough to engage the starter solenoid, so we can't tell if your Starter is OK or not until you either (1) get the battery charged, or (2) jumpstart your car using jumper cables connected to another vehicle or a charged battery. ONLY USE the Jumpstart Terminals under the hood for jumpstarting; NEVER connect directly to the battery in the rear.

If you get a battery charger, let it charge at either 4 or 6 Amp rate for ~ 3 hours, and then try to start. Measure battery voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals after one or two clicks of the starter solenoid if it FAILS to crank.

If the engine starts, measure system voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals with the engine running. This is to determine if alternator output is sufficient voltage (should be in 13.5V to 14.5V range).

If you get it running, charge the battery at the 2 Amp rate overnight, and then measure voltage 30 minutes or more AFTER disconnecting charger (it will read high until voltage stabilizes after disconnecting charger). Then measure voltage again 8 to 12 hours later (engine off overnight) BEFORE starting in the morning. This is to check for battery health (does it hold a charge) as well as for any parasitic battery drain from some electrical component or circuit drawing current when it should be OFF.

BTW, the "!" in a yellow triangle on the center of your instrument cluster means you have a CC-ID fault code stored in the Instrument Cluster Memory. You can read that code on the instrument cluster by following the "Check Control" procedure using the B/C buttons on turn indicator stalk, found in your Owner's Manual (just look up "Check Control" in the Index). Let us know what that code number is (3 digits), or you can look it up at this site (which also describes procedure to get code):
http://mr-fix.info/bmw-cc-id-codes-f...ning-messages/

George

[RogerThat]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Need to get the battery charged to >12.0 V, preferably to 12.5V or more, but 12.0V SHOULD crank the starter. You can get a decent battery charger from Harbor Freight Tools for $30:
https://www.harborfreight.com/26-amp...ger-60322.html

11.3 V is NOT enough to engage the starter solenoid, so we can't tell if your Starter is OK or not until you either (1) get the battery charged, or (2) jumpstart your car using jumper cables connected to another vehicle or a charged battery. ONLY USE the Jumpstart Terminals under the hood for jumpstarting; NEVER connect directly to the battery in the rear.

If you get a battery charger, let it charge at either 4 or 6 Amp rate for ~ 3 hours, and then try to start. Measure battery voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals after one or two clicks of the starter solenoid if it FAILS to crank.

If the engine starts, measure system voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals with the engine running. This is to determine if alternator output is sufficient voltage (should be in 13.5V to 14.5V range).

If you get it running, charge the battery at the 2 Amp rate overnight, and then measure voltage 30 minutes or more AFTER disconnecting charger (it will read high until voltage stabilizes after disconnecting charger). Then measure voltage again 8 to 12 hours later (engine off overnight) BEFORE starting in the morning. This is to check for battery health (does it hold a charge) as well as for any parasitic battery drain from some electrical component or circuit drawing current when it should be OFF.

BTW, the "!" in a yellow triangle on the center of your instrument cluster means you have a CC-ID fault code stored in the Instrument Cluster Memory. You can read that code on the instrument cluster by following the "Check Control" procedure using the B/C buttons on turn indicator stalk, found in your Owner's Manual (just look up "Check Control" in the Index). Let us know what that code number is (3 digits), or you can look it up at this site (which also describes procedure to get code):
http://mr-fix.info/bmw-cc-id-codes-f...ning-messages/

George

Okay so I went out and I got a charger for my battery. I tried to jump start the car first and nothing. I charged the battery for around 5 hours or so and nothing and again tested the voltage at the jump start terminal and again only 11.98 V. I also tried pulling up the B/C Menu and nothing would come up anymore at all now ever since I tried to pull up the "Secret Menu" via Odometer button. now instead all I get is a !. there is no triangle or anything just a !.

[hassmaschine]

Unplug the IBS.

[RogerThat]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

Unplug the IBS.

Did that and still nothing

[Bali]

If it’s been dead for a few weeks and it’s older than 3-4 years, might as well replace the battery.

You can also take it to a local auto parts store for them to charge and then load test it.

Would also be interesting to see the system voltage when you hit the Start button. Is there a voltage dip or not, and by how much?

[Dolach]

Did you manage to find the issue? Similar problem here

[67R60]

Hello All,

I had similar battery issues. I boiled down to ensuring you had the right battery for the car, ensure you buy it charged (mine was dead, so I had to return and replace which wasted a lot of troubleshooting time). Then there are a lot of clips, wires, etc to replace. I tucked a positive wire so I could remove the battery, then forgot to install it and thought I got another dead battery.

Finally when all said and done it was a matter of right battery with a charge, and installing all the wires and clips appropriately. Now I need to register the battery (I have carly to do so).

[gm325xi]

Sounds like the starter has went. Pretty common on e90s, but be sure to check the engine ground strap as that could cause the same effect as a dead starter. Its located on the driver side motor mount and goes down to the body. If you end up replacing the start replace that ground strap with it as preventative maintenance.

[mantis]

Originally Posted by gm325xi

Sounds like the starter has went. Pretty common on e90s, but be sure to check the engine ground strap as that could cause the same effect as a dead starter. Its located on the driver side motor mount and goes down to the body. If you end up replacing the start replace that ground strap with it as preventative maintenance.

i just started getting the start, run then die issue, and was wondering could blown motor mounts maybe cause this ground strap to have issues.

hoping to not have to replace the starter. i just have sulev warranty run out, but had the intake manifold gasket replaced, really have to buy anything else.