[335iLI]

After 500 miles of grandma driving I finally went full wot(no tune in) and the clutch held up fine. So i decided to throw the procede in and guess what now it slips again. Its fine until i boost over ten psi just like it used to slip on my stock clutch. The clutch also chatters. The weird part is sometimes it chatters sometimes it doesnt at idle. BrainMN said he had no chatter at idle. I have no idea whats going on. Is there anyway that other components in my transmission could be worn or need to be replaced(mastercyclinder) ? causing my clutch not to hold. Im beyond fustrated. CM did not even label their disk pressure plate side and flywheel side which they are supposed to do. When i called them up they said it can go either way. I dont know what route to take now this is my daily driver i cant take there clutch out send it to them and wait for an answer. Any suggestions? Thanks guys

[Tiago@VRSF]

FX100 isn't a great choice for an upgrade at higher than stock power levels ...

[335iLI]

Originally Posted by tvieira24

FX100 isn't a great choice for an upgrade at higher than stock power levels ...

where did you get this info from

[Tiago@VRSF]

I've yet to see a Clutchmaster Stage 1 clutch hold anything greater than OEM power levels. This info comes from about 10 years of personal experience

[BrianMN]

Originally Posted by tvieira24

FX100 isn't a great choice for an upgrade at higher than stock power levels ...

Bologna.

Originally Posted by 335iLI

After 500 miles of grandma driving I finally went full wot(no tune in) and the clutch held up fine. So i decided to throw the procede in and guess what now it slips again. Its fine until i boost over ten psi just like it used to slip on my stock clutch. The clutch also chatters. The weird part is sometimes it chatters sometimes it doesnt at idle. BrainMN said he had no chatter at idle. I have no idea whats going on. Is there anyway that other components in my transmission could be worn or need to be replaced(mastercyclinder) ? causing my clutch not to hold. Im beyond fustrated. CM did not even label their disk pressure plate side and flywheel side which they are supposed to do. When i called them up they said it can go either way. I dont know what route to take now this is my daily driver i cant take there clutch out send it to them and wait for an answer. Any suggestions? Thanks guys

Sorry to hear this is causing you frustration. Regarding the slipping: I bet it has something to do with the heavy throttle/slipping from the first night you had it on...most likely glazed it. Luckily, since it isn't kevlar, you should be able to wear off that glaze. Look up some techniques on how to remedy that; I prefer not to give suggestions on that.

There isn't much to screw up on installing it; the only thing you could've screwed up is not tightening down the pressure plate in a proper pattern.

Also not sure on the chattering...like I said, mine is chatterless at 750rs pm idle (haven't had it with A/C on yet) and the only time I've heard chatter is pulling away from the Jimmy Johns drive through (brick building 3 feeet from drivers side, starting from a stop in 1st gear)

If you know of someone locally who knows how to remedy the glaze; I'd suggest asking them to help; if you do it and don't do it correctly, you could make it worse.

I wouldn't worry too much though; it's not like you've fried off a ton of disc material that first night or the last 500 miles of grandma driving..

[335iLI]

Originally Posted by tvieira24

I've yet to see a Clutchmaster Stage 1 clutch hold anything greater than OEM power levels. This info comes from about 10 years of personal experience

lol ok. what would you recommend fx300 ?

[Tiago@VRSF]

What's the exact model of the clutch you have? There's a rigid disc & sprung disc available for the FX100. That might explain your chatter.

To BrianMN

Clutch Masters rates their S1 generously (a bit too generous in my past experience) . "Holding capacity 70% over stock". That's 510tq at the engine, about 433wtq. Any healthy 335 with a couple mods & Procede will be very close to 400whp with minimal mods. Would you want your clutch to be 30wtq away from that threshold.

I wouldn't.

[335iLI]

Originally Posted by BrianMN

Bologna.



Sorry to hear this is causing you frustration. Regarding the slipping: I bet it has something to do with the heavy throttle/slipping from the first night you had it on...most likely glazed it. Luckily, since it isn't kevlar, you should be able to wear off that glaze. Look up some techniques on how to remedy that; I prefer not to give suggestions on that.

There isn't much to screw up on installing it; the only thing you could've screwed up is not tightening down the pressure plate in a proper pattern.

Also not sure on the chattering...like I said, mine is chatterless at 750rs pm idle (haven't had it with A/C on yet) and the only time I've heard chatter is pulling away from the Jimmy Johns drive through (brick building 3 feeet from drivers side, starting from a stop in 1st gear)

If you know of someone locally who knows how to remedy the glaze; I'd suggest asking them to help; if you do it and don't do it correctly, you could make it worse.

I wouldn't worry too much though; it's not like you've fried off a ton of disc material that first night or the last 500 miles of grandma driving..

Thanks brian. I think im going to bring it back to the shop. Just sucks that install issues or defects somehow comes out of our pockets

[335iLI]

Could it be a master cylinder issue

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by 335iLI

Could it be a master cylinder issue

That would have nothing to do with anything.
It's most likely one of the following:

1. Pressure plate doesn't have enough clamping force to hold the disc to the flywheel.
2. Disc material isn't grabbing the flywheel.
3. Flywheel is glazed and wasn't "resurfaced" before installing the new clutch so new clutch isn't grabbing the flywheel.

EDIT

You installed the clutchmasters flywheel also?

[335iLI]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

That would have nothing to do with anything.
It's most likely one of the following:

1. Pressure plate doesn't have enough clamping force to hold the disc to the flywheel.
2. Disc material isn't grabbing the flywheel.
3. Flywheel is glazed and wasn't "resurfaced" before installing the new clutch so new clutch isn't grabbing the flywheel.

EDIT

You installed the clutchmasters flywheel also?

Yes I did. Its hard bc clutch masters wont send me a new clutch they want this one and its my daily driver. The shop is saying everything was done right .Clutch install is so straight forward I don't know how they are denying me parts.

[BrianMN]

Originally Posted by tvieira24

What's the exact model of the clutch you have? There's a rigid disc & sprung disc available for the FX100. That might explain your chatter.

To BrianMN

Clutch Masters rates their S1 generously (a bit too generous in my past experience) . "Holding capacity 70% over stock". That's 510tq at the engine, about 433wtq. Any healthy 335 with a couple mods & Procede will be very close to 400whp with minimal mods. Would you want your clutch to be 30wtq away from that threshold.

I wouldn't.

Your Assuming that the stock clutch only holds 300hp/tq...which is highly underrated. Hundreds of people are driving around right now on stock clutches with 420crank tq. With no issues beyond expected wear.

The FX100 pressure plate and disc is plenty strong for those running 400whp/tq.

[BrianMN]

Read my first post again. Nothing wrong with the install - something wrong with the first 10 miles of use... try having someone help get the glaze off.

[Tiago@VRSF]

I'm at 430tq and my OEM clutch is failing. It has less than 5k miles on it. Just because the stock clutch will hold the power doesn't mean it'll do so for long

[itsbrokeagain]

Its all about how you break it in. Drive it normally for another 500 miles to allow it to wear the glaze off. there should have been absolutley no abuse on it when you first put it in, this would have prevented the issue.

[themyst]

Originally Posted by tvieira24

I'm at 430tq and my OEM clutch is failing. It has less than 5k miles on it. Just because the stock clutch will hold the power doesn't mean it'll do so for long

I had 420+whp and god knows how much torque, and the stock clutch held it all just fine up to 28k miles before I traded it in.

[Clap135]

46k tune for 45k, stock clutch, no problems.

This absolutly sucks, this now the 2nd CM clutch that slipped shortly after install.

[Tiago@VRSF]

Originally Posted by themyst

I had 420+whp and god knows how much torque, and the stock clutch held it all just fine up to 28k miles before I traded it in.

Originally Posted by Clap135

46k tune for 45k, stock clutch, no problems.

This absolutly sucks, this now the 2nd CM clutch that slipped shortly after install.

Dang I guess I just drive like an asshole lol.

[BrianMN]

Originally Posted by Clap135

46k tune for 45k, stock clutch, no problems.

This absolutly sucks, this now the 2nd CM clutch that slipped shortly after install.

What/where is the first? Dzennos?

I don't think this is a faulty clutch. I'm betting it is glazed based on the conversations from the night of the installed.. he needs to attempt to get rid of the glaze before any more speculation.

[335iLI]

Originally Posted by BrianMN

What/where is the first? Dzennos?

I don't think this is a faulty clutch. I'm betting it is glazed based on the conversations from the night of the installed.. he needs to attempt to get rid of the glaze before any more speculation.

Who was the other one clap.

[Clap135]

dzeno

[335iLI]

Originally Posted by Matt@Camber-Toe

Its all about how you break it in. Drive it normally for another 500 miles to allow it to wear the glaze off. there should have been absolutley no abuse on it when you first put it in, this would have prevented the issue.

Thanks matt. If I have more issues ill stop by. I guess I get what I deserve lol yes I know you told me so