[Chriztofor]

Besides Meeni, anyone else try this on an automatic and what tips can you suggest? Thanks.

[Big_CG]

Can anyone else vouch for this method on a manual?

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by X3WhittierGuy

Hello guys,

First off, great thread it helped me a lot in gathering the right materials for the job. I was browsing some other forums just to be on the safe side, and came across some items and wondered if I do indeed need them in completion of this job. The items are axle seals, screw plug and sealing sleeve additionally there are 19 Hex bolts on the oil sump that I have been told would have to be replaced as they are one time use. Can anyone confirm this information and that I do indeed those other parts? any answers would be greatly appreciated I am tackling this job soon and want to have all the bases covered, some additional information my car is a X3 3.0i built in 2005 with a M54 engine. Thanks guys and again great thread.

M54 is a different engine than the N52/N54 (magnesium block). The magnesium block on the N52/54 is what drives the use of one-time use aluminum bolts. If the bolts on the M54 are blue headed then they are one-time use only, if they are not, then I's suppose they are steel and reusable. Check realOEM.com. If the bolts are not reusable it will probably be noted there.

[kiel_dafo_kenyg_as]

This all sounds like a nightmare. How about pulling the entire engine out of the car?

[e90_Nick]

Dealer told me mine was leaking, probably going to do this along with the oil filter gasket. Thanks (Dealer wanted $1600 for the job)

[pruettfan]

Originally Posted by e90_Nick

Dealer told me mine was leaking, probably going to do this along with the oil filter gasket. Thanks (Dealer wanted $1600 for the job)

Oil filter gasket is an easy DIY that anyone can do so I wouldn't pay anyone to do that. The pan gasket should cost 800 bucks at a dealer so if you get a quote for much more you should probably shop around a bit.

[Squark]

Originally Posted by e90_Nick

Dealer told me mine was leaking, probably going to do this along with the oil filter gasket. Thanks (Dealer wanted $1600 for the job)

Was that price for both oil leaks or just the oil pan gasket? I just had my oil pan gasket done at the dealer for $725. I didn't trust myself to do it without dropping the subframe, and I didn't want to get into that. Also, work done at the dealer is warrantied for 2 years, so it was worth the peace of mind to me.

[FrankyGTR]

mine is leaking too from somewhere got about 80k

[e90_Nick]

Originally Posted by Squark

Was that price for both oil leaks or just the oil pan gasket? I just had my oil pan gasket done at the dealer for $725. I didn't trust myself to do it without dropping the subframe, and I didn't want to get into that. Also, work done at the dealer is warrantied for 2 years, so it was worth the peace of mind to me.

It might have been but I don't remember. I will ask my SA next time I speak with him as my car is currently in the shop since someone decided putting water in my gas tank was cool.

[georgere]

I cant seem to figure out how to disconnect the oil return hose (per step 5 below)

"Step 5
Disconnect oil return hose on driver's side of car (I actually used a long flathead screwdriver to press in the clip on one side and my finger on the other side - if you have strong hands you can probably just use your fingers"

in my case pressing the tab in doesn't do anything. please help.

[KrashFinatik]

Originally Posted by Meeni

Ok. I am sorry but I cannot recommend this DIY.

While avoiding dropping the subframes sounds terrific at first, it just leads to a sloppy, tedious and painful job. The DIY doesn't claim its a simple job, but now I believe there is no way to make a proper job with this technique, which matters more.

Some bolts are very difficult to reach. On the driver side, the 2 bolts under the engine mount are heroic to remove. It took me probably almost as much time as to remove the subframe to remove these 2 buggers.

The direction rack prevents the removal of the pan bolt immediately over it on the pass-side. There is not enough clearance. I had to unbolt the direction rack to move it around. These bolts are 1 use only, well, I didn't expected that, so they are 2 uses until next week (56NM+90deg).

There is an issue with the transmission oil cooler line. It is in the way. Not having prepared for that, I couldn't remove it (I have no trans fluid at home).

When everything is open, there is simply not enough room to make a proper job.
* Removing the original gasket is a nightmare. It is stuck everywhere, and the same areas where bolt removal is problematic, it is very difficult to access to work the gasket out.
* once removed, it is impossible to clean properly the mating surfaces. Too many areas are out of reach.

Then comes reassembly. A good 50% of the bolts cannot be (in any way) torqued according to spec (25NM +90deg). Most wont fit a torque wrench, many do not even provide enough clearance for a good "feel" wrenching. I torqued snug, some very hard to get bolts are less snug than others (the wiggle in the wobble extensions doesn't permit putting force on the bolts).

Overall, I was very unhappy with how it went. I would actually be surprised if the oil leak is not worse than it was before, after all these efforts. I recommend you do the job properly, dropping the subframe to have enough room to work and remove the pan.

I agree, except the torque specs I found are less than 25NM.
I completed and posted a DIY of my experience replacing my gasket.
Here's the link: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1180020

[PM48]

Ok, I did this without lifting cars engine and dropping sub frame. 325i 2006 automatic. 60k
I spent about 10h (that does not count jacking car up and down). I was unable to fit a new gasket in without cutting it in 1 place though (front of the engine). It is impossible to do without cutting. I struggled for about 1 hour and finally gave up. Unbolting and bolting back the oil pan was not that bad. The transmission cooling pipes can be easily pushed out of the way. Several bolts have to be torque by the feel not torque wrench. My old gasket came off very ease and was intact so nothing to scrape of the pan or block. I cut it in 2 places to remove with as little wiggling as possible as I did not know if I will lose some rubber pieces into the pan. Just in case I saved old drained oil and when it was ready put it back into the engine for 5 minutes and then drained it again to flush it just in case.
So far so good, no leaks.

[pruettfan]

I ended up just having my dealer do mine, cost $1,100. I did my oil filter housing gasket again (I am at 208k now did it the first time around 80k) and plan on doing my valve cover gasket, that should take care of all of my leaks for the remainder of its life.

[Efthreeoh]

So for anyone who reads this thread... the best way to replace the oil pan gasket is to drop the subframe. All it takes more than fighting a split gasket and questionable good seal is removing the ride height sensor arm, unbolting the cooling line across the subframe, using a $40 engine support bar, unbolting the 4 screws that hold the engine mounts, and unbolting six (6) 18MM head bolts.

Just follow the DIY in the DIY section using the subframe drop method.

[PM48]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

So for anyone who reads this thread... the best way to replace the oil pan gasket is to drop the subframe. All it takes more than fighting a split gasket and questionable good seal is removing the ride height sensor arm, unbolting the cooling line across the subframe, using a $40 engine support bar, unbolting the 4 screws that hold the engine mounts, and unbolting six (6) 18MM head bolts.

Just follow the DIY in the DIY section using the subframe drop method.

I AGREE

[mrucker71]

Help Please

Hello folks, I am new to the site. A little about myself, I own a 2003 BMW X5 3.0I that currently has 225k miles on it and I own a 2007 BMW 335I Sedan with 105k miles currently on it.
My question is on the 335I.
I took it to the dealer a week ago to have an alignment, battery cable recall and an inspection performed on it at Jackie Cooper BMW in Edmond, OK.
They said on the report, there is a oil filter housing leak and the transmission seal is leaking. I drove the car back home and parked it over the weekend and drove the X5. Monday, I drove the 335I to work where it sat until I left for lunch. When I returned to my parking spot, I saw a puddle of oil where I had parked previously. I thought nothing of this as someone parked there on 1st shift earlier that day also I smelled burning oil earlier that day while driving but assumed the smell was coming from the car in front of me. Well, I decided I would park in a different spot just to be sure and check later when I got off work if there was a puddle under the car. Sure enough there was. I started the car and let it warm up then checked the oil level. It said I was 1/2 a quart low. I put it in gear and drove off. Then I notice where I was parked early and left for lunch was a trail of oil. I got on the highway and was concern about the level and kept checking it periodically. The level was lower every time I checked it. I had to stop for gas so while I was there decided to check the oil again and could smell oil burning on the exhaust. The level was below the minimum. I noticed an oil trial where I pulled in to the station. I added a quart and drove home.

Well I assumed the leak was coming from the oil filter housing as the tech mentioned on the report. Over this past weekend, I replaced both gaskets for the oil filter housing and the transmission cooler on the side of the oil filter housing. I put the car back together, put oil back in it and started the car and let it warm up. I thought it was fixed. I looked under the car and oil was pouring out. I forgot to mention before I put everything back on the engine, I checked the valve cover gaskets for any sign of leakage. There was no leaks around the valve cover gasket. Also, I did notice oil that had seeped from the oil filter housing before the repair, down the side of the block and onto the oil pan gasket. I cleaned this area and wiped the oil off the side of the oil pan lip. Here is my concern, I don't know if it is a stock gasket but the oil pan gasket over lapped the oil pan by at least a good 1/2 inch. It was rubber over hanging the oil pan but it appeared to still be sealing the between the engine surface and the oil pan. I don't know for sure if the oil pan is leaking when pressure is present as I have not removed the covers yet. Also I noticed the covers were pulled down as in forced down as someone was looking inside (Technician). I was wondering if maybe there is something like a hose that could have been pulled loose? Anyone have any ideas? I am suspecting possibly the oil pan gasket needs to be replaced but any ideas on anything else that could cause this that I can check would be greatly appreciated.
I do all repairs myself on my vehicles. I just can see paying someone thousands of dollars to fix someone I am very capable of doing myself.

[bmw325i-06]

If you wanna get it done right, remove the subframe, remove steering column, remove driver side strut and it will be a perfect opportunity to replace your water pump and f-stop too with plenty of room. Also when I did mine I found a broken oil pump bolt so I ended up replacing them all just to be on the safe side.

[2002]

About to do the gasket change on my 2009 328i Coupe N51 engine with 6 speed manual transmission and noticed the gasket has 29 bolt holes and the bolt package has 28 pieces as shown in this picture:



Is there an extra hole in the gasket that is not used? Inquiring minds want to know!

[cam99]

Originally Posted by 2002

About to do the gasket change on my 2009 328i Coupe N51 engine with 6 speed manual transmission and noticed the gasket has 29 bolt holes and the bolt package has 28 pieces as shown in this picture:



Is there an extra hole in the gasket that is not used? Inquiring minds want to know!

I would assume they didn't give you enough bolts.

[2002]

From what others have said one of the holes in the gasket is not used, so everything is supposed to good!