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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > Too much gap after suspension job? Koni Special Active



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      12-11-2020, 12:13 AM   #1
masterh
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Too much gap after suspension job? Koni Special Active

I just finished suspension job on 328i Wagon.

Koni Special Active + stock touring springs with all new strut & shock refresh kit+ used M3 sway bar + new sway bar links.

The front wheel is sitting very high. I drove around the town but it didn't budge. I am guessing it's because I loosened and tightened control arm bolts (to take out struts easily) while the wheel was in the air?

I have DTC light on and need to get an alignment. (I disconnected tie rod to take out struts and put it back as it was. Same springs. Not sure how it affected the alignment)
How do I address this too much gap issue before getting an alignment?

So far I haven't noticed any difference compared to my worn out stock shocks on bumpy roads (I have continental run flat ) I am hoping it will get better if there is a break in period.

Front wheel and rear wheel
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      12-11-2020, 03:26 AM   #2
masterh
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Sorry. I made a rookie mistake. I thought the control arm will eventually Rotate and settle down once I drive around enough......instead of bushings just get damaged.


So I will jack up the car, place 2 jack stands on front, remove both wheels, loosen the control arms, put the wheels back on, lower the car on the ground to Measure the distance from hub to the fender. And I put 2 jack stands again, remove the wheels, jack up the brake disc to raise it to the measurement and tighten it there.


The other option is jack up the car with middle jack point, remove both wheels, place 2 jack stands right underneath the brake discs and lower it to the measurement?

I have 2 jack stands and one floor jack. Is there a better way?

Shit I will ask alignment shop if they can do it too since they can put on those alignment lift and tighten it there.



Last edited by masterh; 12-11-2020 at 04:03 AM..
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      12-15-2020, 07:15 PM   #3
Vivek.
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I'd just have the alignment shop do it. Last time I asked they charged me $30 for this exact service but the service writer I go to is a saint. You're going to kill yourself working under the car with jack stands under the front brake rotors....
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      12-15-2020, 09:53 PM   #4
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Agree with @Vivek.
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      12-16-2020, 08:58 PM   #5
masterh
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I tightened control arm nuts by preloading the car. I raised the disc with a jack 15 inch from fender to the hub. After I did, DTC light is gone.

Btw, it drives Exactly like the 13 year old blown shocks I had. I feel all the bumps and it's bouncy left & right, front & back. I don't know if it's because of run flat tires.
If I can go back, I will just throw Bilstein HD set for $300 on ebay.
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      12-18-2020, 05:20 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masterh View Post
I tightened control arm nuts by preloading the car. I raised the disc with a jack 15 inch from fender to the hub. After I did, DTC light is gone.

Btw, it drives Exactly like the 13 year old blown shocks I had. I feel all the bumps and it's bouncy left & right, front & back. I don't know if it's because of run flat tires.
If I can go back, I will just throw Bilstein HD set for $300 on ebay.
Glad you're sorted. But yeah, this is a simple torque job with a drive-on lift (or a pit). If you have access, that's the best way to do it. Your technique will work, and I've done it, but it takes extra measuring, and getting under in a precarious way.

I'm sure you realize the control arm height module was making the DTC go off being so far off spec (too much extended reach on control arm).
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      12-18-2020, 05:35 PM   #7
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All you had to do was jack the side up as far as it would go(basically that side would be at right height simulating the cars weight on that corner) and tighten the arms. I have done this every time, and I have measured the hub to fender and it puts the wheel right where it should be.
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      12-18-2020, 06:34 PM   #8
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...or just lower it onto the ground and torque up the bolts? Sure, it's awkward, but it beats faffing with measurements and jacking on the hub/disc etc!
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      12-22-2020, 03:28 PM   #9
masterh
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Yeah I am disappointed since I don't feel any improvement in comfort. I went with this one since it's the most comfortable shocks I could find and they recommend it to use with stock touring springs.
I wish it can pick up micro bounces and impacts but I feel everything. Maybe it's just the way it is no matter what you do with suspension if you have Run Flat...
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      12-22-2020, 04:15 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masterh View Post
Yeah I am disappointed since I don't feel any improvement in comfort. I went with this one since it's the most comfortable shocks I could find and they recommend it to use with stock touring springs.
I wish it can pick up micro bounces and impacts but I feel everything. Maybe it's just the way it is no matter what you do with suspension if you have Run Flat...
Yeah runflats have a SUPER stiff sidewall, that's how they are able to drive with a puncture for like 50 miles. You will notice a massive improvement in ride quality if you ditch the runflats
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