|
|
|
|
|
|
BMW Garage | BMW Meets | Register | Today's Posts | Search |
|
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
>
Intelligent Battery Sensor error
|
|
04-20-2012, 04:25 PM | #1 |
Diamond Geezer
212
Rep 2,385
Posts
Drives: Jet Black 2007 328i Saloon
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Florida
|
Intelligent Battery Sensor error
Thanks in advance for any comments or help here!
Just had my car scanned. The shop's scan tool indicated a malfunctioning Intelligent Battery Sensor error. Clearing the code did not help, it would simply show up again. Did a little searching, from what I can tell, this sensor is located off the negative terminal wiring (?) Decided to take a look at the battery to see if everything looked okay. There was a blue connector off the negative terminal, which was disconnected. I am providing a picture from a battery DIY on this forum, which shows the blue connector on the right side of the picture. In the picture, the connector is connected. On my car the connector is NOT connected. Wondering.... a. Is this a disconnected wire a possible cause for the fault code? or is it even related to the Battery Sensor? b. Regardless of a, is there any reason why I should not connect this wire? |
04-20-2012, 08:51 PM | #2 |
First Lieutenant
21
Rep 364
Posts |
Yes, the blue wire should be connected. That is how ECU communicates to the IBS. If IBS itself has gone bad which is located directly on the negative terminal, then the car may not start. Often, taking that blue connector out temporarily, may start the car since that stops communication between ECU and IBS. Also, if you ever need to remove IBS to change battery, be very gentle since it is sensitive to mechanical stress and changes its calibration point needed for accurate measurement of battery charge characteristics and its history.
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-20-2012, 09:20 PM | #3 | |
Diamond Geezer
212
Rep 2,385
Posts
Drives: Jet Black 2007 328i Saloon
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Florida
|
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-21-2012, 08:45 AM | #4 |
Colonel
103
Rep 2,783
Posts |
I wonder why it was disconnected in the first place. I hope your shop is not the culprit.
__________________
If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-30-2012, 04:37 PM | #5 |
Registered
0
Rep 2
Posts |
Problem with IBS
My 2006 328xi wagon would not start several days ago. The steering wheel would not unlock nor could I get the car out of gear. The car would not crank either. I tried a jumper box but it would not start the car. I put a charger on the car overnight and still nothing.
The next day I got out my small code reader and the problems seemed to be with the IBS. I got to the battery and found the IBS and disconnected it (blue connecter). Once it was disconnected the car started fine. There was water in the battery box which I pumped out. I let everything dry out but when I plug the IBS back in the car will not start and I have the same symtoms once again. Not sure exactly what the IBS does other then disable a car that would otherwise run just fine. The fact that it disables the car rather then just throwing a code is very annoying. If I did not find this tread I would have had to have the car flat bedded to a dealer and it would have to be dragged onto the flatbed as I could not put the car in N. So far the car has not thrown any codes with the IBS disconnected. Does anyone know if it will be a problem if I leave it in the present state? Has anyone replaced and IBS before? I can see it on the top of battery negative terminal. It does not look hard to replace. If anyone has any thoughts on how I might get my present IBS back working that would be great. Of course I also need to find the leak into the battery box. It seems to be coming from rear quarter window. If anyone knows what this might be I would be grateful. Thanks! Gary |
Appreciate
0
|
09-30-2012, 05:42 PM | #6 | |
Diamond Geezer
212
Rep 2,385
Posts
Drives: Jet Black 2007 328i Saloon
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Florida
|
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
03-21-2013, 12:59 PM | #8 |
Diamond Geezer
212
Rep 2,385
Posts
Drives: Jet Black 2007 328i Saloon
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Florida
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
03-21-2013, 04:15 PM | #9 | |
Gateropode
329
Rep 2,848
Posts |
Quote:
If the IBS is indeed fried, the car would not start, but all electrical devices would work anyway. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
03-22-2013, 11:04 AM | #10 |
Major General
124
Rep 5,627
Posts |
In my case, the IBS had an intermittent fault. After the alternator was replaced, the problem continued and was finally traced to the bad IBS.
The alternator would begin overcharging at 17+ volts (no dash warning) but if the ignition was left on after shutting the motor off, the "Low Battery" warning would come up within one minute. The car also stalled out once and (luckily) would not restart while at the dealer. Tom |
Appreciate
0
|
03-23-2013, 06:51 PM | #11 |
Private
5
Rep 62
Posts |
Hey guys, thought I'd share my recent experience with this problem. My car wouldn't start one day and charging it and jump starting it wouldn't do anything. After a long ordeal and getting it towed back, I learned a few things. The way to get the car into neutral when all electronics fail is to pull up hard on the boot of the shifter and remove it. Underneath you will find a small lever that locks the shifter in place. Toggle it and move the shifter into neutral. About the ibs sensor: it regulates charging so you don't wear out your alternator prematurely and saves gas. Downside is that if it fails, you will not be able to do start your car. The correct temp solution is to unplug it just like the op had. Lastly, if you need to replace the ibs sensor, you might need to change 3 cables. I have a 2006 330I. The old sensor was two pieces. There were problems with the design, so they changed it to a 3 piece cable. Of course, the 3 piece cost more than the 2 piece. You have to buy all three separately and cost about$300 from the dealer. I also bought a new battery which cost $279.
|
Appreciate
0
|
03-25-2013, 01:23 PM | #12 |
New Member
1
Rep 28
Posts |
Meeni & u170who - Thanks so much for your reply's. I don't want to hijack this thread, I'd love your further input on my post (and anyone els ewho is interested): http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1#post13701131
I'm a bit confused - mlifxs's IBS was disconnected for apparently a long time and the car started fine (until recently). How coudl that mean a bad IBS sensor keep the car from starting (I have tested starting with it connected & disconnected)? |
Appreciate
0
|
03-26-2013, 02:00 AM | #13 | |
Banned
30
Rep 242
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-03-2013, 02:25 PM | #14 | |
Private
5
Rep 62
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
03-07-2014, 04:54 PM | #15 | |
Registered
0
Rep 4
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
03-10-2014, 01:07 PM | #16 | ||
Banned
30
Rep 242
Posts |
Quote:
|
||
Appreciate
0
|
12-01-2017, 10:20 PM | #18 |
Registered
0
Rep 4
Posts |
|
Appreciate
0
|
01-05-2018, 10:40 AM | #19 |
Registered
0
Rep 2
Posts |
any help please
so i recently had my battery replaced as I was told my 2006 e90 needed a new battery. I did a replacement and my car was fine for about 2 months.. i later had a service and the dealership said that my alternator was starting to go bad this in turn caused my starter to eventually die as it was being overworked. I replaced the starter and alternator the car ran and started fine for about 2 weeks ..the car then had issues starting i would continually have a weak start and eventually the car refused to start.. i would manually charge my battery and i would get a start for a few days then it wouldn’t start after a few days time...i took it to an indy as the dealership just wasn’t cutting it..the indy advises that the alternator was the problem so a brand new alternator was put into the vehicle...after 3/4 days the issue came back up..still not starting consistently battery not charging...i proceeded to change the IBS cable as it was throwing a IBS error and once the error code was removed with the new ibs and a fully charged battery the car didn’t start..so i’ve changed the alternator the starter(which is fine because the car starts with a jump pack) the ibs but still have intermittent on/off starts..i’ve pretty much lost my mind with what the problem is...can anyone give some advice or direction as to what could be the problem..now while driving i’m getting abs lights that come on...i’ve always had a restraint system fault in iDrive but from my research this could be due to the seat mat sensor issue...help.....i love my 320 handles beautifully i just want my ride back..
|
Appreciate
0
|
01-08-2018, 02:16 PM | #20 |
Lieutenant Colonel
480
Rep 1,600
Posts |
Check the cable that comes out of the jump start terminal. The one which goes over the engine.
It's more common on 6cyl models but the cable frays inside the fitting so it just dry rots and pulls out or breaks. Usually if it is that bad it wont start and it wont charge very well but it should bring up 'increased battery discharge' messages. |
Appreciate
0
|
01-08-2018, 03:50 PM | #21 |
Registered
0
Rep 2
Posts |
this would be the cables that run along the top that are inside the housing?..your saying a cable could be damaged in this housing...i attached a file referencing what I am assuming
|
Appreciate
0
|
Bookmarks |
|
|