[igzekyativ]

updated the original post to reflect the most recent info

[Jae1989]

Originally Posted by igzekyativ

how much was your diagnostic charge? and please let me know if it needs to be programmed.

Okay just got back from the dealer. They charged me $135 for the diag and if I buy the actuator it needs to be programmed which they charge $202 to do it. But it has to be a bmw oem part.

[igzekyativ]

Originally Posted by Jae1989

Okay just got back from the dealer. They charged me $135 for the diag and if I buy the actuator it needs to be programmed which they charge $202 to do it. But it has to be a bmw oem part.

did they explain why/how the actuator was causing the problem?

[igzekyativ]

so I am kinda stuck at this point.

I can take the car to BMW and pay $160 for diagnostics and let them tell me what to fix. it could be the driveshaft, it could be the actuator or it could be something else altogether. My fear would be, like the indy shop, I fix what they tell me is the issue and it does not actually fix the problem. For example, if I take it to BMW and spend $160, they say its the driveshaft. Then I would need to remove the shaft and pay $340 to have it rebuilt/refurbished. If that didn't solve the problem, I'd have to take it back to BMW or just go for the actuator, another stack of $$. In the end the entire transfercase could need to be replaced...

I came across this thread about the issue. http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...8xi-e91/page2&

I am going to unplug the actuator to see if the problem goes away. I am curious about how to know if it just the actuator or if it is the entire transfer case...

[Jae1989]

Originally Posted by igzekyativ

did they explain why/how the actuator was causing the problem?

No, They did not explain why is causing the problem.

[blown07]

Originally Posted by Jae1989

No, They did not explain why is causing the problem.

If you had the front driveshaft off and the problem was still there not sure how it would have anything to do with the TC. The TC connector is easy to remove. Just take out the one 8mm screw from the heat shield and slightly bend down the shield. Just push in the tab and the plug comes out easily. I have done this but it's easier to remove the 2 fuses for the TC and wipers.

[igzekyativ]

Originally Posted by blown07

If you had the front driveshaft off and the problem was still there not sure how it would have anything to do with the TC.

the rear driveshaft also comes out of the transfer case

[igzekyativ]

so the BMW dealership said they were able to replicate my problem. What they said is that because the shaking happens at all speeds under light load, it is not a drive train problem, it is an engine problem.

Here is what they said needs to be done (in relation to this issue):
1 - ignition coils needs to be replaced (this is contrary to what the indy shop told me)
2 - ALL of the cars software needs to be updated as it is currently running its stock 2006 software.

I am having them update the software. I will see if that makes any difference. If not, coil packs it is. And then hopefully I will be done with this issue.

[insxtc]

any update? My 2009 328i Xdrive is going through the same problem. Bringing it into the dealership tomorrow for an oil change and brake flush also.

Thanks,

[igzekyativ]

Originally Posted by insxtc

any update? My 2009 328i Xdrive is going through the same problem. Bringing it into the dealership tomorrow for an oil change and brake flush also.

Thanks,

Been on vacation. Going to pick up the car tonight. So far only the coding has been done. I've ordered the coils, but will test drive the car tonight and tomorrow to see if the just the coding resolves the issues. If not, the coils should be here in a couple days and I'll change them.

[igzekyativ]

Originally Posted by igzekyativ

Been on vacation. Going to pick up the car tonight. So far only the coding has been done. I've ordered the coils, but will test drive the car tonight and tomorrow to see if the just the coding resolves the issues. If not, the coils should be here in a couple days and I'll change them.

coding did not resolve the issue. new coil packs should arrive tomorrow.

[igzekyativ]

Originally Posted by igzekyativ

coding did not resolve the issue. new coil packs should arrive tomorrow.

Installed new ignition coils last night; did not resolve the shaking issue.

Another $600 gone (on coils and software updates) and I still have the problem. This is exactly what I wanted to avoid.

I called BMW to ask them what to do next and they will get back to me..

ALL I WANT TO DO IS STOP WASTING MONEY ON SOLUTIONS THAT DON'T WORK.

[frenchi]

Originally Posted by igzekyativ

Installed new ignition coils last night; did not resolve the shaking issue.

Another $600 gone (on coils and software updates) and I still have the problem. This is exactly what I wanted to avoid.

I called BMW to ask them what to do next and they will get back to me..

ALL I WANT TO DO IS STOP WASTING MONEY ON SOLUTIONS THAT DON'T WORK.

From what you describe your problem is transfer case or torque converter as it happens once the liquid reach some temperature...most probably torque converter.If the problem doesn't exist when the car is cold then it has nothing to do with your drivetrain.
A bad torque converter symptom is a ''torque shudder'' your engine will shake on low rpm and gentle accelerations.

[igzekyativ]

Originally Posted by frenchi

From what you describe your problem is transfer case or torque converter as it happens once the liquid reach some temperature...most probably torque converter.If the problem doesn't exist when the car is cold then it has nothing to do with your drivetrain.
A bad torque converter symptom is a ''torque shudder'' your engine will shake on low rpm and gentle accelerations.

Alright, I will unplug the actuator today and drive around and see if the problem stops.

[Jae1989]

Originally Posted by igzekyativ

Alright, I will unplug the actuator today and drive around and see if the problem stops.

I replaced the actuator motor on mines with a used one with 75 k on it and the problem still there. Also when I took the car to the dealer, they told me if it was the torque converter it would have a code for it. I don't know what else to do.

[mbsl98]

Just a different thought. I had an ongoing issue with low speed engine roughness, on very light throttle, once warmed up, with my 2007 530XiT, in 70k mile range. That has N52 and pretty similar drive train to your 328XiT. In the end, it was due to dirty VANOS solenoid, which is about the easiest repair i have ever done - less than 20 minutes for both. these can be cleaned, as a trial, or swapped intake to exhaust to see what changes. Apparently the intakes are known for getting dirty due to poor oil circulation in the early versions like ours. Mine is a 6MT, so nothing to do the tranny. I haven't had it happen on my 2008 328 yet, at 69k. Parts cost $220 for both solenoids on line.

Good luck

[igzekyativ]

So I pulled the VANOS solenoids, and they were clean. Swapped them anyways. Didn't have any effect.

I unplugged the transfer case actuator motor, and surprisingly, it reduced the problem by about 80-90%. At first I thought the problem went away completely, but after a while, it did show up again; however it was much more subdued and less violent than before.

I am thinking that I will order the new motor and see what happens. This is the cheapest NEW one I could find at $317.24 shipped - http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/OE-27107546671

Am I going to need to drain the transfer case in order to install the new motor?

[frenchi]

No need to drain for the actuator replacement but as you will be there better do it and also most important part will be to reset the transfer case vtg resistor with rheingold or ista/d... you will have new settings after oil change and actuator change.

[igzekyativ]

Originally Posted by frenchi

No need to drain for the actuator replacement but as you will be there better do it and also most important part will be to reset the transfer case vtg resistor with rheingold or ista/d... you will have new settings after oil change and actuator change.

I had the transfer case reset by a member on here while he was doing some remote coding for me because I had just done a fluid change (this was about 200 miles ago). I don't think I'll do another fluid change.

Also, when I took my car to BMW just the other day, they coded/updated everything (took 9+ hours). I am not sure if this reset the transfer case, but i know it reset the transmission adaptions/learning. This was less than 100 miles ago. Do you think I will still need to do a reset?

[frenchi]

You need to reset actuator adaptations each time you replace it as it will be delivered with a new resistor and this provide some info on torque values of the transfer case.

[igzekyativ]

Originally Posted by frenchi

You need to reset actuator adaptations each time you replace it as it will be delivered with a new resistor and this provide some info on torque values of the transfer case.

so I have all the software for coding loaded on my laptop and someone previously remote coded my car (same time he reset the transfer case). my question is how can I reset the transfer case on my own? Is there a DIY I could follow?

[frenchi]

Originally Posted by igzekyativ

so I have all the software for coding loaded on my laptop and someone previously remote coded my car (same time he reset the transfer case). my question is how can I reset the transfer case on my own? Is there a DIY I could follow?

Reset on TC can be done only with ista/d or rheingold..wich soft you have on your laptop ?